Dome building methods - Hub and Strut
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- čas přidán 10. 03. 2017
- Third in the series of geodesic dome building methods, hub and strut is probably the most common and with the most variation in design. Not the most flexible system but useful for tents and marquees, if you want to build a dome greenhouse or have a rigid cover I wouldn't recommend it.
Other videos in the methods for dome building series:
Flattened conduit: • Dome build methods - f...
Arrowhead method: • Dome build methods - A...
My website:
www.geo-dome.co.uk - Jak na to + styl
Thank you for all the videos. Looking forward to the beveled frame build method!
just landed my first job as an autocad technologist, studying these domes rn cause thats what im gonna be designing:)
Re: voids in hard covering ie plywood. The use of properly cut 2x4's or 2x6's with double beveled faces becomes a flat face interface on two planes. As for the hub void an insert properly faced solves that alleged problem. The same applies for the interface between the bottom strut to the riser or to the base plate is the use of a beveled board to create the fill for the "void". I've worked on Geodesic domes of just about every kind going all the way back to one of the very first panelized builders Cathedralite Domes of the late 1960's, Timberline Geodesic dome homes to Pacific Domes simple Conduit domes. Frankly your criticism of Geodesic Domes is unfounded and self aggrandizing ie. blowing your own horn. Today, simple conduit domes are quick emergency shelter or can be used as semi-permanent dome homes. On the other end of the spectrum are domes such as Monolithic Domes (single thin shell concrete domes) for multiple generation buildings. Frankly I'd suggest you take your post down until you learn a little more about Geodesic Domes and the other forms of spherical shaped dome structures.
Thx, but who sells hubs?
could you not use velcro to use hub n strut construction using polycarbonate, velcro polycarbonate (that has been heat treater and bent to fit to over come the voids issue) Im looking for a replacement for my tent though I have to be fairly mobile (homeless) i do have a car so i can transport it I am also looking for the best solution for stowing it on a trailer in large pieces so set up n take down time is minimum.
I a quid and a pound the same thing?
Paul.... You think from the half empty container. The so called problem you highlight of the space between the joints of the hibs and vertices... Can be solved by the use of molds fitting the space or the vertices cut with the curve needed at the ends which should make easier for assembling.
For very heavy storms we are going to need double or triple layer plexiglass and very heavy duty steel frames.
So what's the better ways?
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Hello! I've got 2 questions:
You say that there are better methods for the connections in bigger heavier domes, which are..?
And, what kind of software are you using for the dome?
Thank you !
I uses sketchup for drawings. the method depends on your context, however generally I find panellised type construction to work better unless you are building a tent type structure. My preferred method is beveled frame: czcams.com/video/JRbTyFK2m7s/video.html
Paul, I want to build a half dome that will join to a traditional frame greenhouse. what type would work best for that? My greenhousr is 24 feet by 12 feet with an 8 foot gambrel roof. I want to join it on the 24 foot side
Oh it depends on a few things, I would do a scale drawing then try a dome or two to see what looks best, it is easy making a half dome for a wall, standard 3v works fine: czcams.com/video/_8D9hgHi7m8/video.html
THANKS
What is the name of the program/app you are using in this video?
I use Sketchup pro now, I was using a very old CAD program called auto sketch and rendering with Truespace 4 but sketched does an OK job of both.
What is a hoob ?
HUB, linguistic pronunciation in UK english 'hoob'
I reckon you've never heard of Zip Tie Domes, then.
Yes I have, but I would not consider there method a professional system. More of a DIY makeshift solution, using zip-ties and plastic pipe isn't something I would consider for dome building.
Paul Robinson Oh I know it's not good for a house, but if you need something lightweight and portable... Most dome designs I see are big intimidating structures of wood and bolts
Your "problems" are all just bad design. 15-20 quid per hub? Wow, I never thought of using gold plating for corrosion resistance. As for the "voids" - big deal, filled with Silastic as part of water proofing.. The voids at the hubs are just another straw man.
I use discs, on the inside, with a hole in the middle, small length of 20mm tube on the outside of the disc (square to the disc). Pieces are cut to length, slots are cut into the end of each strut at the correct angle for the bend, and the slot goes over the disc until the strut rests against the pipe. Cost per hub, a couple of Aussie dollars.
Hub is the easy way, with accurate length cuts they come together into shape very easily.
Its less than 2 quid a hub. Greenhouse domes using the panelised method will eventually leak, Thats if you can make it watertight to begin with. Covering the joints with tape is hit and miss at best. The tape has to be inspected and replaced regularly, aka ongoing costs and hassle you dont need.