NOTE: One type of capacitor I did not mention was the infamous 'RIFA'. These are a brand of AC filter capacitors that are found in many power supplies. If your power supply has these caps and they are original, always replace them with new, good quality parts. The cases start to fracture over decades of use and eventually they will go pop and release the magic smoke.
Also worth mentioning that RIFA caps come in both X and Y configurations, and when replacing them you should always make sure you follow the original ones. Most (but not all) RIFAs are X, but some are on the Y side.
This one is a keeper! (As a rookie, someone gave me a small but significant tip. When using a desoldering gun, keep the suction going as you lift the gun off the board.)
Great video Jeff. This was needed. FWIW, I have seen a VIC20 or two with leaky caps in the video section but it's hard to tell since they are mounted close to the board. If the big one leaks, you'll see corrosion on the leads. I've never seen a bad cap in a PET, with the exception of Tantalum caps in later PETs, but those don't leak, they just explode.
I'd add number 4: Have you a precise idea of what that capacitor does (think about one good example: the NP S-Correction cap in a CRT monitor). Of course, if it's bad, you need to change it... I've never changed any cap that hasn't yet failed (or leaked) EXCEPT the X2 Rifa. Great explanation and video overall, thank you!
I did forget to mention the RIFDA caps as I was thinking mainly of electrolytics. I did add a pinned note though. I agree, do not change unless they are bad, or in the case of the PX-8 example when a large percentage are bad and there are only a small number of inexpensive caps, I will replace the lot.
@@HeyBirt I agree, if all the caps are from the same manufacturer. One thing to always keep in mind is that high quality parts are not necessarily easier to find nowadays.
It's not just ebay & alliexpress doing fake caps, ordered a Capacitor selection kit labeled Nichichon from Amazon just to have, and not a one of the caps were Nichichon. However I just use them for misc projects, however when I recap, I do order my Rubicon, Nichichon or Panasonic from Mouser or Digikey, if they have them.
The worst board I had was a PC from 2001ish. Nearly every cap leaked and swelled. I think experiences like that have me looking at all electrolytics with suspicion.
The one I showed is just a cheap 'component' tester and they are all about the same. Some have fancier LCDs. There are better capacitor testers but many times they will not work in circuit.
I hate walking capacitors out on SEGA Genesis because they bend the leads to hold them in the board before soldering. I can’t even get them in my vacuum desoldering station’s tip without first reflowing and using a metal spudger to lever the protruding portion of the leads up off the board. So tedious!
@@HeyBirt I just wish they would do what I do: Bent ONE, solder the other, straighten the first, solder that. Of course, it’s too much manual labor for production! :)
NOTE: One type of capacitor I did not mention was the infamous 'RIFA'. These are a brand of AC filter capacitors that are found in many power supplies. If your power supply has these caps and they are original, always replace them with new, good quality parts. The cases start to fracture over decades of use and eventually they will go pop and release the magic smoke.
Also worth mentioning that RIFA caps come in both X and Y configurations, and when replacing them you should always make sure you follow the original ones. Most (but not all) RIFAs are X, but some are on the Y side.
This one is a keeper! (As a rookie, someone gave me a small but significant tip. When using a desoldering gun, keep the suction going as you lift the gun off the board.)
Great video Jeff. This was needed.
FWIW, I have seen a VIC20 or two with leaky caps in the video section but it's hard to tell since they are mounted close to the board. If the big one leaks, you'll see corrosion on the leads.
I've never seen a bad cap in a PET, with the exception of Tantalum caps in later PETs, but those don't leak, they just explode.
Always replace large power caps first as they can blow the machine. And always use low impedance if they are for power stages.
Fantastic video Jeff =D Brilliant!
I'd add number 4: Have you a precise idea of what that capacitor does (think about one good example: the NP S-Correction cap in a CRT monitor). Of course, if it's bad, you need to change it... I've never changed any cap that hasn't yet failed (or leaked) EXCEPT the X2 Rifa. Great explanation and video overall, thank you!
I did forget to mention the RIFDA caps as I was thinking mainly of electrolytics. I did add a pinned note though. I agree, do not change unless they are bad, or in the case of the PX-8 example when a large percentage are bad and there are only a small number of inexpensive caps, I will replace the lot.
@@HeyBirt I agree, if all the caps are from the same manufacturer. One thing to always keep in mind is that high quality parts are not necessarily easier to find nowadays.
Great discussion!
With 3D printing it’s easy enough to make a lead forming jig. I wouldn’t let myself get pigeonholed into a certain brand over lead spacing. :)
It's not just ebay & alliexpress doing fake caps, ordered a Capacitor selection kit labeled Nichichon from Amazon just to have, and not a one of the caps were Nichichon. However I just use them for misc projects, however when I recap, I do order my Rubicon, Nichichon or Panasonic from Mouser or Digikey, if they have them.
Yes, Amazon is questionable too. That is why I suggested DigiKey or Mouser.
Farnell, CPC (same company, different prices) and RS in the EU/UK as well. I would never trust Ebay or Amazon for good quality components
The worst board I had was a PC from 2001ish. Nearly every cap leaked and swelled. I think experiences like that have me looking at all electrolytics with suspicion.
Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) would probably be a suitable "base" for any capacitor acids. Its pretty safe on most stuff.
What cap tester would you recommend?
The one I showed is just a cheap 'component' tester and they are all about the same. Some have fancier LCDs. There are better capacitor testers but many times they will not work in circuit.
I hate walking capacitors out on SEGA Genesis because they bend the leads to hold them in the board before soldering. I can’t even get them in my vacuum desoldering station’s tip without first reflowing and using a metal spudger to lever the protruding portion of the leads up off the board. So tedious!
But if the insertion machine did not do that all the caps would fall out going down the production line. Been there, done that :)
@@HeyBirt I just wish they would do what I do: Bent ONE, solder the other, straighten the first, solder that. Of course, it’s too much manual labor for production! :)