Lovely video and lots of good information. To get nails and tacks out, I cut a groove with a zip disk on the grinder so I can sneak the leading edge of my prybar or rigid scraper under the tack or nail at the same time. Thank you once again for the video.
Very informative. I've just started to restore a Chestnut Featherweight model, which is apparently a rather rare canoe so I want to do it right and with this vid and part two I've already gained some valuable knowledge. Thanks!
I discovered your channel recently. I am from Patagonia Argentina. In every new video I've seen, I've become more and more convinced that you are a genius. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Would you build a new canvas canoe, to learn this building process, its secrets and techniques?
Juan Maglione Thank you Juan. I have repaired and restored many cedar canvas canoes but I have no interest in building them new. I'm not a fan of that construction technique. The canvas canoe was a solution to a need for mass production at a time when the traditional canoe material, birchbark, was in short supply and the alternative methods required more expensive, higher skilled labour. When they were first introduced, most career canoe builders were pretty disgusted with the building method and in general, the industry began to move away from quality in favour of speed and quantity. Now there are many fine cedar canvas canoes out there and some excellent builders of them. I'll leave those canoes to them. I personally prefer to build lapstrake canoes or if practicality is desired, a skin on frame canoe. I might consider building a cold moulded canoe for personal interest sake.
I am interested in building a small rowing skiff, or dinghy, with the skin-on-frame system. I'm watching a lot of @Cape Falcon Kayak videos and it convinces me more every day. But it will be a very difficult thing to convince the Argentine Naval Prefecture (which is the Coast Guard here), so that they approve this peculiar and rare construction system.
Juan Maglione Brian is an excellent craftsman and I would build s boat of his design in a heartbeat. I may even build a set of his canoes for myself if I can find the time. I’m getting too old to carry my cedar canvas canoe around. It seems to get heavier every trip. I don’t know what you should do about the Naval Perfecture but you could point out that skin on frame boat building may be the oldest ongoing system of Boatbuilding in human history.
The make and model is generally irrelevant to the process of repair however certain details specific to your boat may demand a different approach compared to another. I hope this series is useful to you. What gets covered is a bit at the mercy of what I had time to get on camera or got filmed well. I always intended this to be more general overview. I may do another series in the future that drills down harder on specific processes. Let me know if you have any requests.
Watching you take the seat away from the inwales... you have done that before. You were my first video after buying my first boat to give TLC. I’m now wondering what I got myself into
Dunno if you guys gives a shit but if you guys are bored like me during the covid times you can stream pretty much all the latest movies and series on InstaFlixxer. Have been streaming with my brother lately xD
Wonderfull thankyou very much . I was looking for stand ideas to put my canoe with her keel on the bootom. Or how to say on the table or wood horse . I saw you put fabric or nylon strips on your horses. Mine is a fiberglass canoe and heavy ( about 55 Kg). I wishto you an yours Health and Happiness. Greeting from Córdoba, Argentina
It's something I made but the same thing is commercially available. It's a roll pin with saw teeth cut into one end that cuts in a counterclockwise direction. You run your drill in reverse. It eats into the screw threads and eventually binds up on them which causes the screw to back out. Failing that it just bores a hole around the whole screw.
NWAAII the problem with that idea is that the canvas filler is basically paint so you might be compromising that but the stripper shouldn't hurt the canvas itself and my guess is that if you are careful to neutralize the stripper when done, it might just work. Usually we just sand the paint down a bit and re-coat. It takes a good number of coats of paint before the canvas weave is fully buried so it’s kind of counterproductive to strip away all the paint. If you try it, let me know how it works out.
I'm having difficulty sourcing "stiff *but* soft brushes" will a medium brush work? 🤣🤣🤣🤷 or do you subscribe the "everything before the *but* is BS" ?? So soft will do??? 🤔🤯 I agree on tack lifters not much use.
A good alternative to prying out tacks is to punch them out from the inside a little bit with a narrow nail punch. After that you can usually get nippers onto them.
Lovely video and lots of good information. To get nails and tacks out, I cut a groove with a zip disk on the grinder so I can sneak the leading edge of my prybar or rigid scraper under the tack or nail at the same time.
Thank you once again for the video.
When I want to preserve th eplanking rather than the rib I punch them out from the inside with a very thin nail punch.
My left ear really enjoyed this video!
user.equalto.Null works on both of mine so I guess you're in the market for new earbuds.
@@Nomadboatbuilding might be an issue with youtube. i had the same issue until i refreshed the page.
Very informative. I've just started to restore a Chestnut Featherweight model, which is apparently a rather rare canoe so I want to do it right and with this vid and part two I've already gained some valuable knowledge. Thanks!
1758pk glad they are helpful. I've got more in the hopper. The featherlight is rare. I just stumbled on one myself.
You use Uncle Billy's pine tar too.Nice canoe restoration.
Haha, no but I’ll happily wear their pin.
I discovered your channel recently. I am from Patagonia Argentina. In every new video I've seen, I've become more and more convinced that you are a genius. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Would you build a new canvas canoe, to learn this building process, its secrets and techniques?
Juan Maglione Thank you Juan. I have repaired and restored many cedar canvas canoes but I have no interest in building them new. I'm not a fan of that construction technique. The canvas canoe was a solution to a need for mass production at a time when the traditional canoe material, birchbark, was in short supply and the alternative methods required more expensive, higher skilled labour. When they were first introduced, most career canoe builders were pretty disgusted with the building method and in general, the industry began to move away from quality in favour of speed and quantity. Now there are many fine cedar canvas canoes out there and some excellent builders of them. I'll leave those canoes to them. I personally prefer to build lapstrake canoes or if practicality is desired, a skin on frame canoe. I might consider building a cold moulded canoe for personal interest sake.
I am interested in building a small rowing skiff, or dinghy, with the skin-on-frame system. I'm watching a lot of @Cape Falcon Kayak videos and it convinces me more every day. But it will be a very difficult thing to convince the Argentine Naval Prefecture (which is the Coast Guard here), so that they approve this peculiar and rare construction system.
Juan Maglione Brian is an excellent craftsman and I would build s boat of his design in a heartbeat. I may even build a set of his canoes for myself if I can find the time. I’m getting too old to carry my cedar canvas canoe around. It seems to get heavier every trip. I don’t know what you should do about the Naval Perfecture but you could point out that skin on frame boat building may be the oldest ongoing system of Boatbuilding in human history.
This is a really well-done video.
Thank you. I do my best but I have a long way to go.
I just bought a Bob's that has been in a state of disassembly for almost 20 years. It's a bit of a basket case. This CZcams series is going to be fun.
The make and model is generally irrelevant to the process of repair however certain details specific to your boat may demand a different approach compared to another. I hope this series is useful to you. What gets covered is a bit at the mercy of what I had time to get on camera or got filmed well. I always intended this to be more general overview. I may do another series in the future that drills down harder on specific processes. Let me know if you have any requests.
Watching you take the seat away from the inwales... you have done that before. You were my first video after buying my first boat to give TLC. I’m now wondering what I got myself into
Hahaha. I ask myself that every day. Just take it one little challenge at a time.
Dunno if you guys gives a shit but if you guys are bored like me during the covid times you can stream pretty much all the latest movies and series on InstaFlixxer. Have been streaming with my brother lately xD
@Sean Misael yea, I've been watching on instaflixxer for since december myself :D
i modified my small pry bar by cutting a slot in the center making it essentially a large tack remover.
That’s a great idea James. I'll have to try that myself.
Wonderfull thankyou very much . I was looking for stand ideas to put my canoe with her keel on the bootom. Or how to say on the table or wood horse . I saw you put fabric or nylon strips on your horses. Mine is a fiberglass canoe and heavy ( about 55 Kg).
I wishto you an yours Health and Happiness.
Greeting from Córdoba, Argentina
Those stand can hold quite a lot of weight. My newer version has a removable cross bar for working on the canoe upside down as well.
Okay, what was the tool you were using to get the rusted screw out?
It's something I made but the same thing is commercially available. It's a roll pin with saw teeth cut into one end that cuts in a counterclockwise direction. You run your drill in reverse. It eats into the screw threads and eventually binds up on them which causes the screw to back out. Failing that it just bores a hole around the whole screw.
IS A CITRUS STYLE paint remover ok to strip paint from an old cedar strip canvas hull?
NWAAII the problem with that idea is that the canvas filler is basically paint so you might be compromising that but the stripper shouldn't hurt the canvas itself and my guess is that if you are careful to neutralize the stripper when done, it might just work. Usually we just sand the paint down a bit and re-coat. It takes a good number of coats of paint before the canvas weave is fully buried so it’s kind of counterproductive to strip away all the paint. If you try it, let me know how it works out.
I'm having difficulty sourcing "stiff *but* soft brushes" will a medium brush work? 🤣🤣🤣🤷 or do you subscribe the "everything before the *but* is BS" ?? So soft will do??? 🤔🤯 I agree on tack lifters not much use.
Anything that doesn’t damage your surface is fine.
@@Nomadboatbuilding hmmm what about the brush??????😂
That comment was about the brush.
A good alternative to prying out tacks is to punch them out from the inside a little bit with a narrow nail punch. After that you can usually get nippers onto them.
@@Nomadboatbuilding Doh, 🤯 😎🕺
i used a pair of nippers on my cell phone repair video
Good for all sorts of things those are.