We old dudes (I'm 76) absolutely LUV to hear Jeff passing all these 'pearls of wisdom' he's handing Tommy and Allison. One day when they least expect it one and or more of those will pop into their heads and they'll remember (and smile) where and from whom they first heard them. Thank you Jeff,, you're one in a million partner for having the patience to explain what the kids are seeing and why they're seeing it. I have 3 Sons and 2 daughters (all in their 50's now) who didn't care what 'ol Dad was doing when I was swapping engines and trans in the old '73 Ford Torino I prepared for each of them as their first 'loaner' car to drive when they got their license. I always bought junk yard 400ci motors for that old car and they never lasted very long. At least they held together long enough for the kids to get to work after school and earn enough money to buy a car for themselves. I taught them EARN IT YOURSELF,, YOU WILL THANK 'OL DAD one day when you're raising your own kids. They did 🙂
Only on a small blocks some of the 273 had the same setup 340 is got a lot of the copper rods you never seen it on a big block six-pack Motors none of those had copper anything just a small blocks put the cam in and send it
Jeffff, 340's are MEANT to be cranked up to 7000+ rpm despite the 59° lifter angle. We raced many years shifting at 7250 rpm on a STOCK bottom end (steel crank) with zero problems. With heads that have been worked on, wind it up and let it shine in it's natural power band (7000+)!
I can't wait for my youngest daughter ileah to get home to watch this video. She's Allison's Biggest Fan. She told me when she's bored at school and they got nothing going on she throws in her headphones and watches old G2G videos. She spent most of her time at Slugfest last weekend watching Allison film and trying to learn how she goes about it and gets the best shots. You're an Inspiration to younger Girls that Love Drag Racing Chick. Keep Grindin 😎🤙
Amazing that there wasn't more damage Allison has a Great ear for Her own personal mechanicals Big Shout to Jefafa ! For Sharing this information with us and being patient with your work, Jeff is a good 👍person Have a Great Day 👍 God Bless America 🇺🇸🙏🇺🇸
I love 💕 watching a good father instructing and teaching their children, especially with real knowledge, like engine repair or taking down a tall tree 🎄. You Rock good Father!!!
The bronze color rod was EXTREMELY common on 340s, some say they were dipped in copper to bring them within weight specs. If you search google there are a ton of explanations, but it is very common.
the coating on the conrod was used to resize the rods if they had a issue with manufacturing as well seen it hundreds of times in my years engine reconditioning
Manufactured rods that weren't in spec (oversize) were copper dipped and re machined to bring into tolerance. (could be for the bearing housing, rod side width, or wrist pin bore.) Chevrolet did the same thing. I doubt any manufacturers do it any longer.
Wow, I learned something new today about adding copper to the rod to make it a bit heavier. We never had Mopar`s growing up and I have never seen it on the thousands of YT. video`s I have watched. That`s really smart in my opinion. Far easier and faster to balance the entire rotating assembly with Crank and Rods as a package for each individual engine. And instead of grabbing another un coated rod hoping it`s the correct weight you grab that one and there you have it. I`m sure they had them ready to go at the factory in different weights just for that reason. The copper coated ones that is. And Once you do your first cam removal and installation the right way you never forget it. Good Wholesome content right here folks. I`m excited to hear it come back to life. I`m sure Allison is as well so she can get back to Racing the tree and the track. And the Grudge racing also. Can`t forget that. And yes Drum brake had their place and time but they were always a pain to do in my days of wrenching. I was the family mechanic. The Engine overall is very clean internally. Hello Jeff. And Shop Foreman. And Good Idea Tommy going with the Manual brake setup on your truck. AZ Hillbilly from Ohio.
Good one guys. I like these learning videos. Src and old man don't do these as much any more. Also happy the Geoff workshop has a dog, 😊 even if she's an inside couch dog.
I am a Dad of two daughters. I work on my car's and build cabinets etc... my youngest loves to watch and learn what I do. She is 21 and married and can do more car and home repairs than her husband. Jeff and Allison are fun to watch with Tommy learning and laughing behind the camera. Nice job building a cool car's too.😅
I had the rods reconditioned for my Ford 390 and when I got them back, one was colored like that. I didn't ask questions because the guy that did them is the best in the business and knows more than me.
Allison is such a Babe! Jeff a fa is an amazing teacher and I think Tommy and Allison are being taught so much, they just don't realize how much yet. Keep up the great content guys!
I worked at the Ford Lima Engine plant back in the 70's in the rod machining line. It was common practice to copper plate over size or under weight rods.
Another case of FTFD. I have named it now, flat tappet failure disorder. I have been finding this all over and asking my own questions about what is thought to be the cause in each failure. I would like to know what your guys thinking is on why yours failed and in particular, what was the cam and lifters brand you used. I have to make a cam decision soon on the 351C I am building and I've been crossing company names off the list of poteintial suppliers due to numerous reports of certain brands failing. FTFD is still a huge problem and it doesn't appear that cam and lifter companies really want to get down to the bottom of what exactly is causing it. Some machine shop needs to set up the testing equipment and allow all of us with failed cams and or lifters to send them in for a thorough analysis to find out why they failed. I haven't found one so far. From videos made by some machine shops recently looking at these failures it appears that most of the present failures are caused by the lifter faces and/or cam lobe faces not having the correct profiles ground in to promote lifter spin. We, as the engine builders are now being required to either check or have our machine shops check every cam lobe and lifter for the proper profile. It only takes one not ground properly to wreck the engine.
Back in the late 70s and 80s the several small block Mopar that I disassemble there was always 1 rod that was orange and after a few times of seeing that I called dodge and that's what they had told me at the time which at the time I didn't know weather to believe them or not because I never had seen it in any other motor and as far as the lifters are concerned the quality control has gotten bad now a days. Awesome job,God bless and as always be safe 👍
I don't know if others know, but, lifters are NOT flat on the bottom. They have a crown, not flat or a dip. The rod being different colors only means that when the engine was replaced that one of the rods was replaced in the rebuild. Heat will not turn a rod orange but blue.👍
We rebuilt my brother's 70 Dart Swinger 340 back in 1973. I had a 71 Demon 340 I was building for Super Stock. My buddy had a 69 Dart Swinger 340 built for Super Stock. The early 340 rods were smaller than the 70 - 71 340 rods. My brother's engine had 4 of each size. 4 small, 4 large. The machine shop said it was balanced perfectly. The larger rods had minimal material on the small and large ends. The small rods had larger amounts of material on each end. His car hauled ass for a basically stock engine. Blueprinted with a Hemi grind purple cam. 13.50's @ 106 mph with 3.91 gears. Talk about a oddball.
Yeah, the copper was a factory deal, Ford did the same thing back in that era as well. Some of the FE Ford's would even have factory brazing in the block to fix casting flaws.
Good to see it's nothing serious! I have never seen an orange rod before, but makes sense. The small block dodge does respond well to RPM for sure! In factory form, they are an 18 degree head, so even though the flow numbers of the small block dodge stuff aren't anything amazing, that 18 degree valve angle helps! All of my small block dodge combo's over the years liked to live in the 7000-7800rpm no problem. The goofy push rod angles make you wonder how it likes to live up there, especially with a W2 top end with a 0.750" offset Intake rocker, but the only time I messed up a push rod, it was an oil passage blockage.
Hopefully Jeff sees this, get a solid cam, chromoly push rods, and winds it up to 7000+. He may not realize that 340's are different from 360's and 318's in that 340's are screamers!
A couple of lifters adjusted a little tight? Should make sure you run an oil with zinc in it also... Jeff im sure knows that! Thats pretty interesting about the bronze color/ coating to add weight to the rod..never heard of that before!
i would have yanked out the motor and ordered a stroker crank kit with rods. Just me. I stroke up everything. No substitute for cubic inches. I think that 340 goes up to 426 CID easy. You would be close to a 75 lbs of torque increase. A graph would show the peak torque in at 1000 rpm sooner. It's great for 60ft times and more power everywhere with a bigger cam. I now run a LS3 with a 4.1 stroke and a longer rod 4.125. JE pistons it's a shorter piston for 426 CID to keep the piston skirts in the hole and there lighter and non symmetrical to keep pressure off of the wear side of the piston holes. The CamMotion cam LLR kit makes power fast to 7600 peak. Best of luck with all your projects guy's! luv every episode!
Love the flip flop Convo. Just show you all are down to earth people. I already knew that as I've been following Kid and Dry Fire for a while but I think people are down for different. Love everyone in all the SRC, OMG, G2G channels. Good shit during messed up times in our country.
HI ALL How much have we missed tech Jeffaffff awesome always learn something wen jeff is explaining thx low-key Tommy would definitely were those bling ? lol i said were is that water coming from lol copper coating ill ask my friend he is an engineer from chrysler then mitsubishi his dad would no ill let you no thx guys
Good to see the 340 isn’t hurt too bad. I saw that coolant rushing out and thought Jeff would have a cow,I use to work with a tech that I swear you could lick the shop floor as soon as he pulled an engine.
I notice the Jack stands under the blue challenger. I assume to let the tension off the torsion bars so they don’t wear out prematurely since I’m sure they’re extremely small diameter for racing. I’d be curious to know if he’s running the .840 bars or even smaller in diameter.
David Vizard and Uncle Tony's Garage both covered the lifter problem in their videos. The lifters were not machined correctly. They should have a dome on their face.
Usually, number 5 is always the problem, child, lol..... The others get along and put in work well together. It's awesome to learn all of these tricks as you guys do, too. Can't wait to see the Dart in action again.
I got to say this was the most funniest and entertaining video you guys done in a while I definitely can't wait for you guys to get that cam put in are you going to film putting Jeff's car back together
I work at several machine shops throughout my life I seen a few of those orange rods in small block Mopars over the years and my boss said he explained what it was that's pretty weird but that's kind of cool have a great day thanks for the inspiration of video hope to see it running soon you have a great support team
Did you cut the filter? I have seen copper dipped rods from the factory to tighten up the clearances so to not throw the rod away. just dip it and rehone to size, Not a problem. very common with stock factory rods. Especially with Chevy rods.
I had the same problem with my ATI damper on my 340. I'm very suprised at the lifter issue though. Call hughes they'll have a cam,edm lifters and matching springs
Yes i work at a big car maker engine plant and worked at another one also. It's common to place paint on parts for different reasons. Some could be someone pulled off a random part for quality check on the lot. Sometimes full paint means it's a deviation lot that was ok to ship. So when they get to assembly if something looks different they don't freak out. Usually will have tag on them so they know they are ok to use. Or it could be a shift change marking. Shift change mark the last part outputted to prevent any parts after that being blamed on you. So many different reasons. I'd trust a part with paint on it more than not. That means someone pulled it off the line and looked at it. at any point in the manufacturing process more or less
When I was a mechanic at Consolidated Freightways they always had the very outer edge of brake drums turned down to maximum wear point so there was never a ridge for brake sgoes to hang up on...one day soon I will buy a used brake lathe to do very same thing to every drum I EVER will have to remove!
It might take Jeff a year to get it running again but it will be 110 percent he is so methodical with everything great video guys keep them coming..we still love you Jeffffffaa LoL 😂😂😂😂
With all of the lifter issue's the past couple years. I have found that when changing out flat tappet cam and lifters. After several lifter failures, after being broken in correctly. I have went back to using OEM lifters. Mostly GM products, I use GM lifters. I have not had any problems since then. These are not ultra high performance builds. Mostly just cam upgrades.
I learned in 2018 not to use Flat Tappet Cams anymore (burned up 3 lobes in 2000 miles) I run a 1965 SBF 289 & Had to up-date to a Roller Cam & won't go back. Roller Cams are Better because there's no cam Break-in! So now I run Roller Lifters my latest set were Morel, linked bar lifters.
I love watching your videos. Jeff is very smart about cars. I'm retired. and use to race. And so glad to see the younger generation learning about cars and racing. I think you have 2 great families coming together and teaching the young to learn and enjoy cars and racing. God bless both of your families.
it was a way to resize the rod that got honed a little big. dip in a brass makes the bore smaller and rehone to size rather than send the rod back to the forge. weights werent that close from the factory, nor the piston and pin weight.
Since Jeff didn't put that engine together (I think that engine came with the car) they have no idea just how well it was assembled prior to Alison getting it. Not overly surprising they're finding some bad lifters.
Good job Jeff, passing your knowledge to the young ones. Listen up closely Tommy and Allison. With the "quality control" coming from the aftermarket on hydraulic flat tappet lifters, Can`t you use a roller cam and lifters?
It was so funny 🤣 seeing Tommy just stand there while the engine is taking a leak on the floor. Uuuummmm, .......cool......oh yeah the leak? So friggin funny Tommy!!!
In a 340 the drivers side lifters get oiled from the front main bearing, which oils thr #1 rod bearing, we always go to the rear of the engine and steal oil from anywhere it has oil pressure and feed it to the driver side of the lifter valley, just a little tip that could make or brake the invincible small block, stay strong
Jeff is right it's all over the place everyone with high hp have been putting up the extra money for oem lifters after market ones are incasistent with the harding process that's why u have only 1 or 2 or 3 that fail
Wish you all would build a big block Dakota..... That would be cool seeing Jeff build his own purpose built street truck . No rules like the challenger has. Love the Whole thing. But Mopar for lofe
Best thing to do is buy the valve springs ment for the cam. Who knows how long those springs have been in the engine and was it sitting with valves adjusted for a long time without being run. your old springs could wipeout a new cam in just the amount of break-in time 20 minutes or less.
I've seen some sbc & BBC rods with the bronze on the big ends . The ones I've seen were in 60s and 70s engines . I was told a long time ago that is was done for balancing.
Now you know you can remove a camshaft Allison. Jeff always teaching and as old gear head myself always willing to learn too. Looking forward to the cam install and hearing it run again. Great content
Just because the springs were tested once, it's a good idea to check them again while they are out. Or change them with new ones that you know are good. But even then, you want to check new ones just to be sure. At least measure them for height.
Tommy, as far as Jeff knowing that the bolt would thread right into the camshaft, that’s something that just comes with seeing things so much ( comes with age). That’s one of few pros that comes with being old ( knowledge and wisdom). No offense Jeff, I’m of age as well.
On JH Diesels channel he had lifter issue in his gas mud truck, and he was told to go back to OEM lifters as the aftermarket lifter market has been using Chinese metal for lifters & the quality is just crap. I've heard this from a number of different engine builders.
We old dudes (I'm 76) absolutely LUV to hear Jeff passing all these 'pearls of wisdom' he's handing Tommy and Allison. One day when they least expect it one and or more of those will pop into their heads and they'll remember (and smile) where and from whom they first heard them. Thank you Jeff,, you're one in a million partner for having the patience to explain what the kids are seeing and why they're seeing it. I have 3 Sons and 2 daughters (all in their 50's now) who didn't care what 'ol Dad was doing when I was swapping engines and trans in the old '73 Ford Torino I prepared for each of them as their first 'loaner' car to drive when they got their license. I always bought junk yard 400ci motors for that old car and they never lasted very long. At least they held together long enough for the kids to get to work after school and earn enough money to buy a car for themselves. I taught them EARN IT YOURSELF,, YOU WILL THANK 'OL DAD one day when you're raising your own kids. They did 🙂
It's good to see Jeff teaching as he does things.
He's the Engineering Prof I wasn't lucky enough to have in University or College.
I think we can all learn something from watching Jeff
Only on a small blocks some of the 273 had the same setup 340 is got a lot of the copper rods you never seen it on a big block six-pack Motors none of those had copper anything just a small blocks put the cam in and send it
Jeffff, 340's are MEANT to be cranked up to 7000+ rpm despite the 59° lifter angle. We raced many years shifting at 7250 rpm on a STOCK bottom end (steel crank) with zero problems. With heads that have been worked on, wind it up and let it shine in it's natural power band (7000+)!
I can't wait for my youngest daughter ileah to get home to watch this video. She's Allison's Biggest Fan. She told me when she's bored at school and they got nothing going on she throws in her headphones and watches old G2G videos. She spent most of her time at Slugfest last weekend watching Allison film and trying to learn how she goes about it and gets the best shots. You're an Inspiration to younger Girls that Love Drag Racing Chick. Keep Grindin 😎🤙
The copper rod is perfectly normal, i have rebuilt at least a dozen 318 and 340 engines in the last 50 years and have seen this several times
Amazing that there wasn't more damage
Allison has a Great ear for Her own personal mechanicals
Big Shout to Jefafa ! For Sharing this information with us and being patient with your work, Jeff is a good 👍person
Have a Great Day 👍
God Bless America 🇺🇸🙏🇺🇸
I love 💕 watching a good father instructing and teaching their children, especially with real knowledge, like engine repair or taking down a tall tree 🎄. You Rock good Father!!!
The bronze color rod was EXTREMELY common on 340s, some say they were dipped in copper to bring them within weight specs. If you search google there are a ton of explanations, but it is very common.
Jeff is definitely right on the lifter quality goin down hill in the last few years, no matter what kind of engine your building.
Lifters have gone down hill the last 5 plus years. Especially factory GM
I know I'm afraid when I put my motor together that's gonna be something that fails and wrecks all the other expensive stuff
@@robinwendt5527 go roller lifters for sure
Put crower cool face lifters in it.
@@fwhiteification And the newer dodge v8s have no problem come on
Jeff is such a great wealth of knowledge to pass down to Allison & Tommy
the coating on the conrod was used to resize the rods if they had a issue with manufacturing as well seen it hundreds of times in my years engine reconditioning
God Bless Jeff he is awesome ! He just keeps working and trying to teach some of the students are off on a tangent
Manufactured rods that weren't in spec (oversize) were copper dipped and re machined to bring into tolerance. (could be for the bearing housing, rod side width, or wrist pin bore.) Chevrolet did the same thing. I doubt any manufacturers do it any longer.
I love Allison’s family and Jeff would be my mentor if I lived around there
Wow, I learned something new today about adding copper to the rod to make it a bit heavier. We never had Mopar`s growing up and I have never seen it on the thousands of YT. video`s I have watched. That`s really smart in my opinion. Far easier and faster to balance the entire rotating assembly with Crank and Rods as a package for each individual engine. And instead of grabbing another un coated rod hoping it`s the correct weight you grab that one and there you have it. I`m sure they had them ready to go at the factory in different weights just for that reason. The copper coated ones that is. And Once you do your first cam removal and installation the right way you never forget it. Good Wholesome content right here folks. I`m excited to hear it come back to life. I`m sure Allison is as well so she can get back to Racing the tree and the track. And the Grudge racing also. Can`t forget that. And yes Drum brake had their place and time but they were always a pain to do in my days of wrenching. I was the family mechanic. The Engine overall is very clean internally. Hello Jeff. And Shop Foreman. And Good Idea Tommy going with the Manual brake setup on your truck. AZ Hillbilly from Ohio.
Fancy to see you here. Been watching your channel for years.
@@BassheadGTP Yep I watch Gen2 and SRC and Old Mans Garage
Great find. I was trying to let you know about the copper was for weight. But you couldn’t hear me yelling from Michigan LOL have a wonderful day.
Great role models for parents and kids, keep the content coming. You all are inspiring.
Good one guys. I like these learning videos. Src and old man don't do these as much any more.
Also happy the Geoff workshop has a dog, 😊 even if she's an inside couch dog.
Been alot of cam and lifter failures the past few years.....and we're just stuck with it...
I am a Dad of two daughters. I work on my car's and build cabinets etc... my youngest loves to watch and learn what I do. She is 21 and married and can do more car and home repairs than her husband. Jeff and Allison are fun to watch with Tommy learning and laughing behind the camera. Nice job building a cool car's too.😅
Love it!! Good for you Terry.
It sounded like a raid in Afghanistan when you guys were looking for the coolant catch pan.
Great video! Love the Dart and the 340! MOPAR!
I had the rods reconditioned for my Ford 390 and when I got them back, one was colored like that. I didn't ask questions because the guy that did them is the best in the business and knows more than me.
Thanks for all the hard work and dedication. You guys are doing great. Keep it up.
Nice job catching that worn lifter as soon as you did!
Allison is such a Babe!
Jeff a fa is an amazing teacher and I think Tommy and Allison are being taught so much, they just don't realize how much yet. Keep up the great content guys!
I worked at the Ford Lima Engine plant back in the 70's in the rod machining line. It was common practice to copper plate over size or under weight rods.
Another case of FTFD. I have named it now, flat tappet failure disorder. I have been finding this all over and asking my own questions about what is thought to be the cause in each failure. I would like to know what your guys thinking is on why yours failed and in particular, what was the cam and lifters brand you used. I have to make a cam decision soon on the 351C I am building and I've been crossing company names off the list of poteintial suppliers due to numerous reports of certain brands failing.
FTFD is still a huge problem and it doesn't appear that cam and lifter companies really want to get down to the bottom of what exactly is causing it. Some machine shop needs to set up the testing equipment and allow all of us with failed cams and or lifters to send them in for a thorough analysis to find out why they failed. I haven't found one so far.
From videos made by some machine shops recently looking at these failures it appears that most of the present failures are caused by the lifter faces and/or cam lobe faces not having the correct profiles ground in to promote lifter spin. We, as the engine builders are now being required to either check or have our machine shops check every cam lobe and lifter for the proper profile. It only takes one not ground properly to wreck the engine.
I've heard some say about the hardness of the metal used on the lifters not being correct
Back in the late 70s and 80s the several small block Mopar that I disassemble there was always 1 rod that was orange and after a few times of seeing that I called dodge and that's what they had told me at the time which at the time I didn't know weather to believe them or not because I never had seen it in any other motor and as far as the lifters are concerned the quality control has gotten bad now a days. Awesome job,God bless and as always be safe 👍
I don't know if others know, but, lifters are NOT flat on the bottom. They have a crown, not flat or a dip.
The rod being different colors only means that when the engine was replaced that one of the rods was replaced in the rebuild. Heat will not turn a rod orange but blue.👍
Jeff fa fa is a good teacher he has lots of patience.
We rebuilt my brother's 70 Dart Swinger 340 back in 1973. I had a 71 Demon 340 I was building for Super Stock. My buddy had a 69 Dart Swinger 340 built for Super Stock. The early 340 rods were smaller than the 70 - 71 340 rods. My brother's engine had 4 of each size. 4 small, 4 large. The machine shop said it was balanced perfectly. The larger rods had minimal material on the small and large ends. The small rods had larger amounts of material on each end. His car hauled ass for a basically stock engine. Blueprinted with a Hemi grind purple cam. 13.50's @ 106 mph with 3.91 gears. Talk about a oddball.
Yeah, the copper was a factory deal, Ford did the same thing back in that era as well.
Some of the FE Ford's would even have factory brazing in the block to fix casting flaws.
Can`t wait for y`all to get the new cam in and Allison making passes!! Nice video and editing work as always Tommy!!
2 videos in one week it must be Christmas thank you
Keep up the content!! Awesome seeing families wrenching and racing together!! 🏁🏁🏁🏁
Thanks for new video and I'm glad nothing is wrong with the lower end of the Darts motor
Good to see it's nothing serious! I have never seen an orange rod before, but makes sense. The small block dodge does respond well to RPM for sure! In factory form, they are an 18 degree head, so even though the flow numbers of the small block dodge stuff aren't anything amazing, that 18 degree valve angle helps! All of my small block dodge combo's over the years liked to live in the 7000-7800rpm no problem. The goofy push rod angles make you wonder how it likes to live up there, especially with a W2 top end with a 0.750" offset Intake rocker, but the only time I messed up a push rod, it was an oil passage blockage.
Hopefully Jeff sees this, get a solid cam, chromoly push rods, and winds it up to 7000+. He may not realize that 340's are different from 360's and 318's in that 340's are screamers!
Thanks for sharing Tommy and Allison
Thanks for sharing guys and gal 😀
Uncle Tony did a video about What he thought was going on with your engine. Or put the hemi in there. That car turned out sweet
A couple of lifters adjusted a little tight? Should make sure you run an oil with zinc in it also... Jeff im sure knows that! Thats pretty interesting about the bronze color/ coating to add weight to the rod..never heard of that before!
i would have yanked out the motor and ordered a stroker crank kit with rods. Just me. I stroke up everything. No substitute for cubic inches. I think that 340 goes up to 426 CID easy. You would be close to a 75 lbs of torque increase. A graph would show the peak torque in at 1000 rpm sooner. It's great for 60ft times and more power everywhere with a bigger cam. I now run a LS3 with a 4.1 stroke and a longer rod 4.125. JE pistons it's a shorter piston for 426 CID to keep the piston skirts in the hole and there lighter and non symmetrical to keep pressure off of the wear side of the piston holes. The CamMotion cam LLR kit makes power fast to 7600 peak.
Best of luck with all your projects guy's! luv every episode!
With all the flat tappet lifter problems i seen in the recent pass really settled the debating on roller or flat tappet on any older build for surre
Get a magnet oil drain plug and put a magnet on the oil pan too to catch any material floating around in the oil.
Love the flip flop Convo. Just show you all are down to earth people. I already knew that as I've been following Kid and Dry Fire for a while but I think people are down for different. Love everyone in all the SRC, OMG, G2G channels. Good shit during messed up times in our country.
Can’t wait to see the outcome and the build 👍🏼
😊 That everything is going well. Can’t wait for the next one
HI ALL
How much have we missed tech Jeffaffff awesome always learn something wen jeff is explaining thx low-key Tommy would definitely were those bling ? lol i said were is that water coming from lol copper coating ill ask my friend he is an engineer from chrysler then mitsubishi his dad would no ill let you no thx guys
I really like listening to The Jeff Man. Very very Good Mechanic for sure.
You are in good hands for sure. And he knows his shit and more..
Good to see the 340 isn’t hurt too bad. I saw that coolant rushing out and thought Jeff would have a cow,I use to work with a tech that I swear you could lick the shop floor as soon as he pulled an engine.
Very cool history lesson on the rod. When Jeff is stumped, especially on a MOPAR, it’s got to be a rare issue.
I notice the Jack stands under the blue challenger. I assume to let the tension off the torsion bars so they don’t wear out prematurely since I’m sure they’re extremely small diameter for racing. I’d be curious to know if he’s running the .840 bars or even smaller in diameter.
I love, love, love your videos!! They’re so fun!! ❤
David Vizard and Uncle Tony's Garage both covered the lifter problem in their videos. The lifters were not machined correctly. They should have a dome on their face.
Very good detail of the how and what on the cam thank you for the video
Usually, number 5 is always the problem, child, lol..... The others get along and put in work well together. It's awesome to learn all of these tricks as you guys do, too. Can't wait to see the Dart in action again.
Welcome to chrysler probelms! Lol also thats why you always retract the parking brake adjusters to remove the rotors. Lol
I got to say this was the most funniest and entertaining video you guys done in a while I definitely can't wait for you guys to get that cam put in are you going to film putting Jeff's car back together
Yelp, Have an old BBF with one stock “coppered” rod. Had the same reaction when my son tore it down
I work at several machine shops throughout my life I seen a few of those orange rods in small block Mopars over the years and my boss said he explained what it was that's pretty weird but that's kind of cool have a great day thanks for the inspiration of video hope to see it running soon you have a great support team
Did you cut the filter? I have seen copper dipped rods from the factory to tighten up the clearances so to not throw the rod away. just dip it and rehone to size, Not a problem. very common with stock factory rods. Especially with Chevy rods.
I had the same problem with my ATI damper on my 340.
I'm very suprised at the lifter issue though.
Call hughes they'll have a cam,edm lifters and matching springs
Yesterday I pulled apart an LA 318 and that had an "orange" mine was #8 rod. I pulled the rod cap and bearing looked great. Soo I'm just sending it
Yes i work at a big car maker engine plant and worked at another one also. It's common to place paint on parts for different reasons. Some could be someone pulled off a random part for quality check on the lot. Sometimes full paint means it's a deviation lot that was ok to ship. So when they get to assembly if something looks different they don't freak out. Usually will have tag on them so they know they are ok to use. Or it could be a shift change marking. Shift change mark the last part outputted to prevent any parts after that being blamed on you. So many different reasons. I'd trust a part with paint on it more than not. That means someone pulled it off the line and looked at it. at any point in the manufacturing process more or less
Allison your dad is very awesome he's a wise person awesome he's teaching but every once in awhile sometime the teachers can get taught
😊 the last time you use those jumper cables was when you had to jump start Billy in his truck😮😊
Ive seen a sbc 327 with a gold coated rod before, out of all the motors ive done over the years that was the only one i seen like that.
When I was a mechanic at Consolidated Freightways they always had the very outer edge of brake drums turned down to maximum wear point so there was never a ridge for brake sgoes to hang up on...one day soon I will buy a used brake lathe to do very same thing to every drum I EVER will have to remove!
Tommy the camera lighting and focus where really good 👍
Another great video!
It might take Jeff a year to get it running again but it will be 110 percent he is so methodical with everything great video guys keep them coming..we still love you Jeffffffaa LoL 😂😂😂😂
"I'm gonna bling her gas tank,," YOU GO MOM!! 🙂
I love the family interaction😃
love the tutorial by jeff part by part teaching as u go truly the best way to learn is with Dirty Dirty hands,How many miles on this motor
Yes, it is true. The copper color is done at the factory. Completely normal.
Good info on the rod , i feel much better
Good job sir. Just got here tuned in to the channel. Congrats the success
🎉🎉 AS ALWAYS GREAT CONTENT AND THUMBS UP. GOD BLESS ALL 🎉🎉.
With all of the lifter issue's the past couple years. I have found that when changing out flat tappet cam and lifters. After several lifter failures, after being broken in correctly. I have went back to using OEM lifters. Mostly GM products, I use GM lifters. I have not had any problems since then. These are not ultra high performance builds. Mostly just cam upgrades.
I learned in 2018 not to use Flat Tappet Cams anymore (burned up 3 lobes in 2000 miles) I run a 1965 SBF 289 & Had to up-date to a Roller Cam & won't go back. Roller Cams are Better because there's no cam Break-in! So now I run Roller Lifters my latest set were Morel, linked bar lifters.
I love watching your videos. Jeff is very smart about cars. I'm retired. and use to race. And so glad to see the younger generation learning about cars and racing. I think you have 2 great families coming together and teaching the young to learn and enjoy cars and racing. God bless both of your families.
I've seen quite a few copper dipped rods. Rock on it's fine
it was a way to resize the rod that got honed a little big. dip in a brass makes the bore smaller and rehone to size rather than send the rod back to the forge. weights werent that close from the factory, nor the piston and pin weight.
Since Jeff didn't put that engine together (I think that engine came with the car) they have no idea just how well it was assembled prior to Alison getting it. Not overly surprising they're finding some bad lifters.
Good job Jeff, passing your knowledge to the young ones. Listen up closely Tommy and Allison. With the "quality control" coming from the aftermarket on hydraulic flat tappet lifters, Can`t you use a roller cam and lifters?
It was so funny 🤣 seeing Tommy just stand there while the engine is taking a leak on the floor. Uuuummmm, .......cool......oh yeah the leak? So friggin funny Tommy!!!
In a 340 the drivers side lifters get oiled from the front main bearing, which oils thr #1 rod bearing, we always go to the rear of the engine and steal oil from anywhere it has oil pressure and feed it to the driver side of the lifter valley, just a little tip that could make or brake the invincible small block, stay strong
They like to spin the #1 rod bearing because of lack of oil pressure cause the drivers side lifters steal it,
Jeff is right it's all over the place everyone with high hp have been putting up the extra money for oem lifters after market ones are incasistent with the harding process that's why u have only 1 or 2 or 3 that fail
Wish you all would build a big block Dakota..... That would be cool seeing Jeff build his own purpose built street truck . No rules like the challenger has.
Love the Whole thing. But Mopar for lofe
It's Allison's Dakota, so U might want to check with her -- the little 340 will make that Dakota move right along.
Some rods are dipped in copper during the manufacturing process. Built engines for years and seen a lot of them over the years.
Always check the spring pressure 👍
Is jeff a teacher, if not he should be, he knows what he is talking about, i have worked on automobile's all my life! 😊
Best thing to do is buy the valve springs ment for the cam. Who knows how long those springs have been in the engine and was it sitting with valves adjusted for a long time without being run. your old springs could wipeout a new cam in just the amount of break-in time 20 minutes or less.
Your lifter problem may be because of too much valve spring pressure..I would change the springs..Good Luck.
I've seen some sbc & BBC rods with the bronze on the big ends . The ones I've seen were in 60s and 70s engines . I was told a long time ago that is was done for balancing.
Now you know you can remove a camshaft Allison. Jeff always teaching and as old gear head myself always willing to learn too. Looking forward to the cam install and hearing it run again. Great content
Just because the springs were tested once, it's a good idea to check them again while they are out. Or change them with new ones that you know are good. But even then, you want to check new ones just to be sure. At least measure them for height.
Tommy, as far as Jeff knowing that the bolt would thread right into the camshaft, that’s something that just comes with seeing things so much ( comes with age). That’s one of few pros that comes with being old ( knowledge and wisdom). No offense Jeff, I’m of age as well.
On JH Diesels channel he had lifter issue in his gas mud truck, and he was told to go back to OEM lifters as the aftermarket lifter market has been using Chinese metal for lifters & the quality is just crap. I've heard this from a number of different engine builders.