+Edward Petty LOL, thanks Edward. They really don't bother me. I know that no matter what I do, someone out there will dislike something, maybe my fingernails were a little dirty that day, who knows? I've been in the computer business (I'm a professional software engineer) for over 35 years so I know the deal with Internet anonymity and how some people use it just to mess with others. Sometimes I just like to mess with em back...LOL. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching me ramble on about this stuff. I'm working on my next video right now and have several others in the queue so stay tuned!
The top of the O ring should just be slightly above the top of the die for a proper powder charge. It will then go above the top of the die when over or double charged. You should back the die out or in to make that adjustment happen. You should not have to rely upon a vision estimation like you did at 3:45 of the video. That defeats the whole purpose of the cop. You may as well just look inside each cartridge and do a visual that way.
You are setting the die up incorrectly. First charge a case with the proper charge. Now place it under the die and run the case up into the die. slide the O ring up or down as needed to show the O ring close to level with the top of the die. Screw in the die to fine tune it. You want the O ring to just clear the top of the die. That's a perfect charge. You have way too much subjective windage there under that O ring. If the O ring doesn't come up, you have a squib. If it raises above the set level you have an over charge. Very simple.
@@berniedmj1 I began reloading in 1976. That's 44 years ago. I'm certified as a reloading instructor as well. My comments were aimed at getting the most out of the PC die. By setting the die as indicated in the video, you might miss a load that was just 1 or two grains off. This of course, could be devastating in a handgun like the .45 APC using a fast, high density powder. By setting up the die so that a properly charged case would have the O ring just flush with the top of the die, even the slightest variance will be detected. As to flipping the stem over and using it for .223, it will work but even the guy in the video says you have to make sure the case is properly centered. On a LNL, that isn't really possible. If you do miss and hit the case mouth, you will have a mess and a stoppage. It's also possible to push the rod into the powder column and get a false reading. The PC die is primarily designed for detecting short or double drops in pistol cases. So that's my criticism. I am not in any way, critiquing the demonstrator's knowledge or credentials, just pointing out that there is a better way that will result in both enhanced safety and accuracy. Odd, it took 24 months to generate a reply. BTW, my name is Reece but for some reason, YT loves to use my wife's logon rather than mine.
@@berniedmj1 I'm in the PRK too (People's Republik of Kommiefornia) Learning to load on a LNL is tough. I would load a few 100 as a single stage (one round at a time) until you master the ins and outs. Keep a can of compressed air handy to clear powder spills. Never force the machine. If you feel resistance...stop. You don't need any case flaring on .223. Just chamfer the case mouths and you are good to go. You don't need a powder cop for .223 either. Ball powder meters smoother that extruded powder. Watch the videos on aligning the primer tube and slide....that part is criti9cle. I had two fully tricked out LNLs, case feeder, command controller, bullet feeder, the works. I sold them off and use a Redding t7 turret press for everything. Just so you know, all brands of dies work in the LNL. Reece
I like to load pistol/revolver with powder that takes up enough volume of the case so that if they get a double charge it overflows. Another check is to shake bullet by your ear. No sound means there's a problem with that round. The bullet gets pulled and ran thru again. Yes I now use a powder cop in addition to these checks.
TehBr0 Hi TehBr0, smart man! I never load without a powder cop. I still use the Mark 1 Eyeball to check my charges, but having a backup has made squib loads a thing of the past for me. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I just did exactly what you did regarding flipping the rod over just seconds before you mention it in you’re video because it was to large for .223/5.56
Like your vids, good job. I like the LNL system overall as well. The Hornady powder cop seems to be lacking since you need to turn it upside down for it to work in rifle cases. It also requires you to watch it to see a powder charge error while also putting cases in and mounting bullets. This is very prone to error and is really not a safety valve. Reloading friends recommend the RCBS powder cop since it will stop the progressive loading sequence. What are your thoughts?
Hi, Yes, the RCBS powder cop does stop the press, which is a nice feature. I also have that and the Hornady version that stops the press. The Hornady version also works with the Hornady control panel so you also get an audible alarm as well.
Question: I noticed my powder cop rod doesn't reach very well on pistol rounds on the Hornady AP. I have the powder cop die as low as it can go, it just touches the shell plate. If the O ring is as high as possible on the rod, it just comes out of the die. I'd like to see the whole o ring. Anyone else notice this when only using about 4 grains of powder for pistol rounds?
great video. not sure about the specific checker you use. the one i have been using for some time (manf?), it has a second rod on top of the checker, O-ring on it. just a cap on top of the power checker. both work the same, just with the second rod it gives me a better sight/view of a over/under charge.
+Larry Janson Hi Larry, thanks! Yup, there's several good powder cops out there. I also have the Hornady and RCBS versions that stop the press if there's a mischarge. I'll do a video on those at some point too I suppose. My queue of videos is already pretty long, hehe. Thanks for watching!
Kenneth Garrison Powder will stick to the end of the shaft if you don't keep it extremely clean. You need to make sure it's completely dry before using it after cleaning. As far as the narrow end of the shaft going into the powder, no, it will sit on top of the powder. A .223 case is so narrow that there's no room for the powder to go anywhere to allow the shaft to dig into the powder. It has no where to go but up. Thanks for the question.
to keep the record straight. it was i who replied to your Die Cop review. (my wife was still signed in) Yes. I've been reloading since 1966 and I use 99%Hornady products including the Powder Cop.
I hit the Dislike button for a few reasons. (Ball Size aside I believe its thin skin that seems to be the problem!) First there is additional information available that comes with the Powder Cop that you didn't address. The Plastic Finger that come with the assembly that assists in centering the shaft on smaller cases you never mentioned it or show how its used. Second, you really didn't show how the Powder Cop should be fine tune adjusted so the O-Ring sits in the recommended position atop not hovering "Somewhere" above. Properly adjusted its possible not only to see double charges but also be warned. ahead of time of powder drop issues. Thirdly, its Primary use is on a progressive press so its use and position when using either a rifle or pistol die set-up would be beneficial, especially if you use automatic case & bullet feeders. Addressing all its features & benefits but also its limitations is paramount.
+Jacqueline Melin Fair enough. I appreciate you letting me know what you didn't like about the video. I did the video primarily to show one of my subscribers how to use it for rifle cases so I guess I concentrated too much on that and not enough on other areas. I will try to be more diligent in the future. I had actually forgotten about this post. I don't mind when people hit the dislike button, I just wish they would let me know what they didn't like so I can fix it in future videos. I normally don't blow up like that...must have been having a bad day. I apologize for the tone of the post.
Don't let those people upset you. We appreciate your videos. They help me and many others.
+Edward Petty LOL, thanks Edward. They really don't bother me. I know that no matter what I do, someone out there will dislike something, maybe my fingernails were a little dirty that day, who knows? I've been in the computer business (I'm a professional software engineer) for over 35 years so I know the deal with Internet anonymity and how some people use it just to mess with others. Sometimes I just like to mess with em back...LOL. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching me ramble on about this stuff. I'm working on my next video right now and have several others in the queue so stay tuned!
The top of the O ring should just be slightly above the top of the die for a proper powder charge. It will then go above the top of the die when over or double charged. You should back the die out or in to make that adjustment happen. You should not have to rely upon a vision estimation like you did at 3:45 of the video. That defeats the whole purpose of the cop. You may as well just look inside each cartridge and do a visual that way.
ABSOLUTELY AGREE. This video does a very poor job of explaining how the O ring is supposed to work because it leaves out a critical reference point.
Nice video as are the ones you have done previously. Great for the beginner and experienced users. Keep up the good work.Thank you
Great video. Well done and clearly explained. Thanks!!
You are setting the die up incorrectly. First charge a case with the proper charge. Now place it under the die and run the case up into the die. slide the O ring up or down as needed to show the O ring close to level with the top of the die. Screw in the die to fine tune it. You want the O ring to just clear the top of the die. That's a perfect charge. You have way too much subjective windage there under that O ring. If the O ring doesn't come up, you have a squib. If it raises above the set level you have an over charge. Very simple.
@@berniedmj1 I began reloading in 1976. That's 44 years ago. I'm certified as a reloading instructor as well. My comments were aimed at getting the most out of the PC die. By setting the die as indicated in the video, you might miss a load that was just 1 or two grains off. This of course, could be devastating in a handgun like the .45 APC using a fast, high density powder. By setting up the die so that a properly charged case would have the O ring just flush with the top of the die, even the slightest variance will be detected. As to flipping the stem over and using it for .223, it will work but even the guy in the video says you have to make sure the case is properly centered. On a LNL, that isn't really possible. If you do miss and hit the case mouth, you will have a mess and a stoppage. It's also possible to push the rod into the powder column and get a false reading. The PC die is primarily designed for detecting short or double drops in pistol cases. So that's my criticism. I am not in any way, critiquing the demonstrator's knowledge or credentials, just pointing out that there is a better way that will result in both enhanced safety and accuracy. Odd, it took 24 months to generate a reply. BTW, my name is Reece but for some reason, YT loves to use my wife's logon rather than mine.
@@berniedmj1 I'm in the PRK too (People's Republik of Kommiefornia) Learning to load on a LNL is tough. I would load a few 100 as a single stage (one round at a time) until you master the ins and outs. Keep a can of compressed air handy to clear powder spills. Never force the machine. If you feel resistance...stop. You don't need any case flaring on .223. Just chamfer the case mouths and you are good to go. You don't need a powder cop for .223 either. Ball powder meters smoother that extruded powder. Watch the videos on aligning the primer tube and slide....that part is criti9cle. I had two fully tricked out LNLs, case feeder, command controller, bullet feeder, the works. I sold them off and use a Redding t7 turret press for everything. Just so you know, all brands of dies work in the LNL.
Reece
Great video. Thanks for the quick turn around on my question
Excellent video! Nice work.
Outstandingly informative.
I like to load pistol/revolver with powder that takes up enough volume of the case so that if they get a double charge it overflows. Another check is to shake bullet by your ear. No sound means there's a problem with that round. The bullet gets pulled and ran thru again. Yes I now use a powder cop in addition to these checks.
Excellent channel on so many level !
Would it be possible to keep rod turned upside down to make it work for any type of load, pistol & rifle ?
Works good user very friendly thanks for the video.
Thanks for the video. I have 2 of these for my LNL, very simple and reliable. I wouldn't feel safe loading without them.
TehBr0 Hi TehBr0, smart man! I never load without a powder cop. I still use the Mark 1 Eyeball to check my charges, but having a backup has made squib loads a thing of the past for me. Thanks for watching!
You're welcome Richard! I try to accommodate my subscribers as best I can.
Very helpful, thanks good video
I have enjoyed you other videos😎
Great video. I just did exactly what you did regarding flipping the rod over just seconds before you mention it in you’re video because it was to large for .223/5.56
Like your vids, good job. I like the LNL system overall as well. The Hornady powder cop seems to be lacking since you need to turn it upside down for it to work in rifle cases. It also requires you to watch it to see a powder charge error while also putting cases in and mounting bullets. This is very prone to error and is really not a safety valve. Reloading friends recommend the RCBS powder cop since it will stop the progressive loading sequence. What are your thoughts?
Hi, Yes, the RCBS powder cop does stop the press, which is a nice feature. I also have that and the Hornady version that stops the press. The Hornady version also works with the Hornady control panel so you also get an audible alarm as well.
Question: I noticed my powder cop rod doesn't reach very well on pistol rounds on the Hornady AP. I have the powder cop die as low as it can go, it just touches the shell plate. If the O ring is as high as possible on the rod, it just comes out of the die. I'd like to see the whole o ring. Anyone else notice this when only using about 4 grains of powder for pistol rounds?
thank you
great video. not sure about the specific checker you use. the one i have been using for some time (manf?), it has a second rod on top of the checker, O-ring on it. just a cap on top of the power checker. both work the same, just with the second rod it gives me a better sight/view of a over/under charge.
+Larry Janson Hi Larry, thanks! Yup, there's several good powder cops out there. I also have the Hornady and RCBS versions that stop the press if there's a mischarge. I'll do a video on those at some point too I suppose. My queue of videos is already pretty long, hehe. Thanks for watching!
love your videos, keep them up. as i just bought a powered case prep center it was great to know about a couple tweak's.
Does any of the powder stick to the shaft? And when you use the small end for .223 does it go into the powder enough for some to get in the groove?
Kenneth Garrison Powder will stick to the end of the shaft if you don't keep it extremely clean. You need to make sure it's completely dry before using it after cleaning. As far as the narrow end of the shaft going into the powder, no, it will sit on top of the powder. A .223 case is so narrow that there's no room for the powder to go anywhere to allow the shaft to dig into the powder. It has no where to go but up. Thanks for the question.
to keep the record straight. it was i who replied to your Die Cop review. (my wife was still signed in) Yes. I've been reloading since 1966 and I use 99%Hornady products including the Powder Cop.
+Craig Melin Thanks Craig
I hit the Dislike button for a few reasons. (Ball Size aside I believe its thin skin that seems to be the problem!) First there is additional information available that comes with the Powder Cop that you didn't address. The Plastic Finger that come with the assembly that assists in centering the shaft on smaller cases you never mentioned it or show how its used. Second, you really didn't show how the Powder Cop should be fine tune adjusted so the O-Ring sits in the recommended position atop not hovering "Somewhere" above. Properly adjusted its possible not only to see double charges but also be warned. ahead of time of powder drop issues. Thirdly, its Primary use is on a progressive press so its use and position when using either a rifle or pistol die set-up would be beneficial, especially if you use automatic case & bullet feeders. Addressing all its features & benefits but also its limitations is paramount.
+Jacqueline Melin Fair enough. I appreciate you letting me know what you didn't like about the video. I did the video primarily to show one of my subscribers how to use it for rifle cases so I guess I concentrated too much on that and not enough on other areas. I will try to be more diligent in the future. I had actually forgotten about this post. I don't mind when people hit the dislike button, I just wish they would let me know what they didn't like so I can fix it in future videos. I normally don't blow up like that...must have been having a bad day. I apologize for the tone of the post.