Do you NEED an ULTRA WIDE angle LENS?
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- čas přidán 31. 10. 2020
- What are the pros and cons of an ultra-wide angle lens? In this video I talk about how to best use a 14-24mm or 16-35mm lens.
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I do love the almost dynamically moving look proper wide angle gives
Great explanation Nigel, I love the way you make every detail of photography personal, talking about how you feel or what you do while taking the shots that you show (amazing as always!), it helps people understanding that photography is more than just a hobby or a job, it's a choice, a personal and unique lifestyle, that can and will definitely change your life forever. There's a great component of photography that many people don't get: emotions, both in the shots and in the moment when the photo was taken, it's those feelings that make each and every shot unique, a piece of our story. (Sorry if I made some mistakes, I'm not English).
Brilliant video as always. I love the way that you share your knowledge, it is so helpful and your images are awe inspiring. Thanks Nigel and Pebbles.
Another good lesson with those great images! The U.S. dawn patrol returns with the resumption of standard time, thus raising havoc with my equilibrium and body clock for awhile. 🙃 Pebbles!! 🐶😊 Rock on!
Best wide angle photography I’ve seen so far in a YT video. Hats off 👌
Thanks, Nigel. These are great considerations. I think you've also mentioned in other videos to be aware of losing your subject when shooting wide. Often we get so taken with the grandeur of a sweeping landscape that we reach for our wide-angle to capture it all. As a result, we sometimes lose the impact of our story that could be more powerfully told with a telephoto lens.
Nigel, there is a beautiful sense of calmness in your personality. That reflects in your photography as well. I watch your videos both to feel at ease and to enjoy your beautiful photos. Keep up your good work,
Another excellent video. Thanks Nigel! It really helps to see those examples - so thanks for continuing to show these!
Top tips, Nigel. I recently purchased a dx 10-20mm lens and I'm having great fun experimenting with this new outlook. The 8 mm's added to my range can make quite a difference. Initially the scope felt somewhat intimidating yet it's what adds so much fun to shooting with this lens as well 😊 📸
I think Nigel is my brother and help me to do perfectly. He always explains everything precisely to save details. Details are always important because important parts are always in detail.
Thank you very much. Your little compressed presentation helps me along.
This video delivered a big "Ah ha" moment for me and explains why I have been generally disappointed with the results from my 10-18mm APS-C wide angle lens. It has also got me thinking about taking the plunge and buying a 12-24mm for my full frame camera. You have been so helpful. Thank you so much!
Absolutely fantastic video. So enjoyable and informative. Your enthusiasm comes through every time and is really inspiring. Thank you very much, Nigel.
Thank you Nigel, You do beautiful work and have a natural way to make complex issues with focal length and the physics of different lenses understandable. I really like your honest approach and conversations about lens and composition considerations.
That was a good explanation of some of the pros and cons of ~hitchhiking~ wide-angle lenses!
Thanks for showing it with both more successful and less successful photos -- analysing what didn't go well can really help one learning to be better next time!
Some great images, but more importantly some great information and explained simply as usual. Thank you Nigel.
I decided to look into a wide angle lens and I feel you covered the pros, cons and tips well. This helped.
This was exactly the sort of video I've been looking for. I just purchased the Rokinon 12mm for my Fujifilm X-S10 to do more landscape photography with but I've struggled in the past to capture mountains the way I'd really like to. This was so enlightening, thank you.
My first UWA was a 10-20 (APS-C). Last week I got the 14-30 and have yet to fire it in anger. I find the UWA especially useful for travel photography. Especially in the tight streets of Europe. You can pack a lot into the frame when needed. You are right about the edges, people sometimes look like they have been squished. Thanks Nigel.
This was a really helpful video. Not so much concentrating on the gear but much more on how to position stuff in your image. Thanks very much.
Great stuff Nigel. Got me thinking about foregrounds. Something I don’t usually put any major emphasis on. Cheers and have a great week mate.
Thanks, that was very helpful I am just getting my first wide angle len 11mm -18mm this was a big help have a great day see you next sunday.
I really enjoy these in-studio tutorials to augment your wonderful in-field videos. Thanks. Pebbles 🐶!
Nice video and photography. When this question pops up, I always point to the possibility of panorama shots and stitching. There are two requirements. (1) if you want easy stitching you need a nodal slide and tripod head that can be panned after it was leveled. It is tempting to think in terms of 3D panorama kit, but that is seriously expensive. And you need to figure out where the nodal point is of your lens you want to use in the panorama. (2) Movement in the subject can make stitching difficult: grass, clouds, water, stars maybe, people. Some of this can be dealt with by Photoshop with or without your help (PS is incredibly awesome at stitching).
Take, for example, the shot at 1:14 taken with a 14mm lens. That 14mm has a vertical angle of 81 degrees and horizontal of 104 degrees. If we put a 20mm on the same camera/sensor (full frame) and set the camera to "portrait" orientation, we get a vertical angle of 84 degrees, which is already more than the 14mm lens had vertically, in its landscape orientation. But the 20 mm now has a horizontal angle of 62 degrees, so to cover the 104 degrees of the 14 we need at least two shots. With more overlap, stitching may be a bit easier (depending on the program we use) and in that case we need three shots. But now we have taken two shots for the 104 degrees, we could equally well add more landscape horizontally for a letterbox format.
Mental and other hurdles aside, we now have significantly more megapixels in the resulting shot. Printing to large format needs less upscaling/upsampling.
Once we figured this out, we can do this with other lenses too. People shooting very wide angles need to go through a lot of practice to learn composition again, for instance to learn to avoid uninteresting foregrounds, Nigel points to this too in the video. Panorama shots and letterbox format need learning too, but can easily avoid uninteresting foregrounds that you would crop away in your early composition learning process (thus loosing pixels resolution).
If you have a nifty fifty and its horizontal in landscape angle of 39 degrees would be enough for vertical use, then you can still get to the 104 degrees angle of the 14mm lens here: with 27 degrees angle available and 1/3 overlap you need about 6 shots to get at or over that 104 degrees.
That nifty fifty panorama of 6 shots, using 2/3rd of your 45.7 megapixel sensor, thus, will give you about 180 megapixel of panorama picture. Take the same shot with the 14mm and crop 1/3rd away to remove some foreground and sky, and you end up with 30 megapixels. I know that 24 megapixels can do a lot. And am acutely aware that 100 megapixels have only twice the linear resolution of 25 megapixels. But if you are into hyper-realism, with beautiful gradation of very soft tones, potentially cloudy or foggy parts with very sharp parts where details are actually present, then you will enjoy this approach.
If you use that same nifty fifty in architecture and have a 3D nodal panorama kit, you can get to the 14mm shot's angle of view in three rows of 6 shots (in portrait orientation) where the middle row primarily functions to give lots of overlap.
Note that the angle of a lens in brochures or similar web publications is generally the diagonal angle. Lens angle is specified for distance setting at infinity and directly relates to your image format: sensor size as used in the shots.
If you want to calculate the angle for any focal lens and any image format (at infinity), the MS-Excel formula (or Google Sheets) is
=DEGREES(2*ATAN(B$29/(2*$F29)))
where B$29 references the used sensor dimension (horizontal 35.9 in my case) and C29 holds vertical format plus D29 the diagonal. The cells only contain the number, not the units. You have to keep the units in all the cells the same, yourself.
$F29 is the focal length for which the angle is calculated - all my length units are in millimeters.
The dollar-signs give absolute references so a formula uses the same row/column/cell when you drag a formula to another row or column, depending on what you put the dollar-sign to.
For reference, to get a horizontal angle of 90 degrees with a 35.9mm sensor, you need 17.8mm.
If your camera has 36mm of sensor available to you, this becomes 17.9mm.
What a great episode Nigel! You really got in sooner great points that I hadn’t thought of before. If there is more you can share on the challenges unique to ultra wide angle lenses and how you address them; I’d love to see a follow segment. Perhaps even a behind the scenes walking through how you assess and approach the scenes!
This tutorial is just what I needed, using my Tokina 11-16 f2.8 is a gorgeous wide angle but I just couldn't get the composition right, cheers again Nigel!
Great tips, thank you! I'm so glad I watched right to the end. Hi Pebbles!
Another helpful and entertaining vlog.. Good on you Sir Danson 🙏🙏👌👌
A very nice video... Very informative...
And you introduced me to Kase... After watching this video, saw your previous video on filters... I have been in a pickle for a long time as well for exactly the same reasons as you had been about using filters... And you just gave me the best filter system for my personal use case...
Love your videos, always very nicely constructed! And your studio looks amazing :-D
These tips are so helpful! Great video
ND great start to Sunday morning, very helpful. Thank you. Pebbles eyes say so much!! 😁
I have a Nikon D5200 and love to use my Sigma 10-20mm on it. The ability to get so much into the shot that I'd not be able to include with a longer lens is great, but I agree, you have to be mindful not to try and get too much in. Another excellent video Nigel.
Another great production, new hat? Some wonderful images there, some great tips once again. Really educational and you continue to deliver to us. The rock in the heather was a beautiful shot, then you zoomed in to show what we should have done.... wow.
Thank you for this video. I love wide angle photography and I learned a lot from this. I’m sure I will watch this video 3-4 more times maybe more . Thanks!
Great discussion. Very helpful!
I believe I have discovered with my 16mm, in my own blundering way, all the pros and cons you cover . It was very helpful that you reinforced these attributes of the ultra wide angle. Thanks.
Great video. Helpful explanations and hints. Thanks a lot. 👍
Great explanation on pros and cons and when to use ultra wide lenses. I just purchased the Sigma 14mm-24mm f 2.8 for my Canon 5D Mk IV to use primarily for night shots (great lens), but now have better appreciation for using in daytime landscapes.
Many thanks Nigel for your very helpful tips on the use of a wide angle lens which has now given me the insight and confidence to go out and buy one.
Great video, thank you for sharing. I can’t wait for a dry day to get out with my camera again - what a wet and windy weekend. Pebbles made me smile, she is beautiful.
Thanks Nigel, very helpful.
The CUUUUUTEST little pup eyes at the end there
Some really great tips here. Thank you.
Great video showing the pros and cons. Bought a 14mm lens ten years ago, hated it, never used it, finally sold it this year. Worst camera purchase ever for me. Love my 17mm tilt-shift lens, though. Amazing image quality and basically no distortion (which was the main thing I hated about the 14mm). Plus, the manual focus slows you down.
Incredible knowledge and the way you share It. All focus on sharing more technical aspects of photography, but you are outstanding, you share the beauty of photography... great... Thanks.
Another wonderful and informative Video, well done and many thanks these sessions are so helpful and interesting and much appreciated.
Glad you like them!
More great tips, and gorgeous images. Thanks !
This was very helpful, thank you!
Another very good lesson, much appreciated
excellent info thank you. I just got the z 14-30 f4 and will use the info here. thank you
Excellent video. Thank you!
Fabulous information again, as always. I’ll be out with my 16mm as soon as to put this into practice 👍🏻
Love shooting @14mm. Its very special and can give you shots that 24/28mm just cannot. It can also easily be cropped with today's high MPIX lenses. This is also an very important consideration - there are easy ways to make your 14mm "narrower" to make a narrow lens wider you need panning - and that only really works in one dimension.
As a lover of Sigma 10-20 and currently Nikon 16-35 you talk sense here and back it up with some nice work.
Excellent explanation, thank you very much for that!
Thanks for more valuable insights! I very much appreciate that you always use plenty of your images as examples. I shoot on a crop sensor and favour my 17-55mm lens, rarely throwing the 10-18mm on the camera. This is some good inspiration to try it out a little more 👍
I am curious about one thing...most (all?) of these examples had mountains / large cliffs in the background. Has anyone found effective backgrounds when you don't necessarily live around epic scenes like that? Not sure I'll be getting to mountains anytime soon!
Great video Nigel. Some belting shots too. I use the Nikkor 16-35 for a fair bit of landscape work, but recently picked up the Laowa 12 Zero Distortion lens for interiors/architectural work - wow! What a cracking piece of glass that is! Basic, heavy, and all metal - even the lens cap!
Anyway, keep up the good work, and I'll look forward to the next vid 👍
Some great points you raised Nigel. With no strong, interesting, foreground and/or distractions at the edges, an ultra wide lens is not appropriate at all. I am finding that with a few exceptions I prefer focal lengths of 20mm+ lately. One thing that I also wanted to comment perhaps for the benefit of others is the use of the magnetic Kase filters. I note you are using 95 rather than the 82mm filters. I do have the 82mm and they don't cause vignetting at 14mm unless you stack them which is very rarely the case, at least for me. My choice was based on the fact that I prefer to have the lens hood on. Of course if you zoom at 15 or 16mm this vignetting goes away. What was a bit surprising though is that the filters do cause the same or even worse vignetting on my 24-70 f2.8s.
In order to take advantage of the huge depth of field offered by a wide lens, I think knowing about hyperfocal distance is very useful.
Sometimes, front to back sharpness will be impossible when focused on infinity...but possible when using the hyperfocal distance.
Perfect timing with your video! I have just been contemplating getting an ultra wide/fisheye lens for my EOS R. I have the RF 15-35 which is great! But Sometimes I want that Ultra wide or even some distortion for my shots. I'm looking at either the Canon EF 11-24 or the Canon 8-15mm Fisheye. The Fisheye is more extreme but I love how it looks at the 10-12mm settings.
A great video with lot's of information. It helped with my decision to buy a wide angle lens for producing prints on my print store.
This is very helpful. Im intending to buy an ultra wide. This should help in deciding 👍
Failed shots were super helpful, thanks for the vid!
I traveled to Norway with a 16-35 F4 and got some very satisfying images, but I felt like I was missing the ability to go into the mid-focal lengths. So I bought a 24-70 F4 in its place, which I feel more at home with. Now I just have a prime 14mm F2.8, that I can use if I ever need to go really wide. It's also a better option for astrophotography.
There is the 20-40mm tamron that could be used for anything
Very useful, many thanks !
Great video. I see all these new camera reviews, but getting the right shot for composition etc is what photography is.
Great to see that shot of Godrevy again Nigel. I was standing in the exact same spot again yesterday!
Besides the content, the presentation is excellent. You put a lot of work into this, thank you!
So beautifully explained 💞
I'd really appreciate this video.
As always, it's very interesting and can help improve our knowledge :)
May I ask if it's possible to do the same for the tele side ? I'm one of those who don't know what lens choose for the details, and really hesitate between a 70-200 and a much longer one (100-500)
I like your style in explaining the points. Simple
Great tutorial thanx Nigel!
Thanks for the tip about pointing the camera down; I´m going to try it. I bought a 10 -18 mm for my crop sensor a couple of years ago, and it's been quite difficult to manage.
Fantastic video, thank you.
Some great tips on using a wide angle lens. I’m definitely tempted to get a good wide angle for my next purchase. Some lovely images as well. 👍
I have 14mm equiv. for both my FF and MFT, this inspires me to go out with both and do some comparison photos. Thanks.
Perfect done Nigel! Really good explanation of wide angle... and Pepps is so cute 😅
Glad you liked it!
Great video, thank you !
Love, just love my 16-35mm, puts wildlife in its environment.... If you can get close enough. Great video, Nigel
Very helpful. Thank you very much
This skewed cliff looks FANTASTIS! It is absurd as a result of distortion, but for some reason it looks fantastic to my eyes!
thank you for great educational and entertaining video
The M Zuiko 9-18mm PRO is amazing! It can Focus from 2” to take close ups. It is important to have distinct foreground, middle distance and background with wide angle lenses for maximum impact.
You are a really great photographer and teacher. Great pics; love to see it. Greetings from Germany near Frankfurt
Great video. Not enough people consider the effect of focal length on perspective and use zooms essentially as a crop tool instead of choosing the perspective that suits the subject and then getting into the right position to frame the shot.
I struggle with my wide angle and tend to fall back on the 24mm end of the 'go to' zoom. Will keep trying though. Thanks for sharing.
Great video Nigel, really informative as usual 👍🏻
Thanks 👍
I am in pure love with your photo at 5:40,,,I just stopped hearing you imagining myself trying to accomplish the same. wowwwww
Very useful Nigel, Started to really use my Canon RF15mm-35mm lens last few weeks when up in the Lakes and got some hits and some misses with it. Definitely takes a bit of thought to get the best out of it.
An incredible Masterclass about wide angle lens!
Nigel, a great lesson! Thanks a lot! At the beginning you mentioned, that you will upgrade to the Z 14-24/2.8. At the moment you use a Z 14-30/4, so do I. And I am also looking towards a 14-24/2.8, but I am hesitating because I would have to use large 150 filter with this lens again if I need GND filters.
Beautiful work and great advice. Like your SF/ Giants hat
Really wanting to travel soon to get some shots like these. Great video
Great vid and tips as always Nigel,springers are the best,remember spending many a long hours picking sticky balls out my late spaniel.👍
Nice Summary!! I really love my 10 mm wide angle lens!!
Very informative video 👏👏, thank you 🙏🏻
Thanks for sharing!
Those are beautiful shots, man 🙂
Good video. As always!