Get rid of steering wheel shake when braking.
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- čas přidán 13. 01. 2017
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There are common problems that cause your steering wheel to shake when you apply the brakes. In order from least expensive to most, they are: dry guide pins, worn brake pads, and worn rotors.
It’s generally recommended if you replace the rotors, you replace the brakes, and grease the guide pins. Or if you’re just replacing the brakes, you also grease the guide pins. Now, if your brakes are still good, you could just grease the guide pins. Most of this can be done with a basic set of tools. Replacing rotors, however, is a little more involved. In either case, this if what it takes to get the job done.
Pad wear indicators should be installed oj the inboard side of the rotor at the trailing edge.
Molybdenum Mo-lib-den-um grease is used for metal to metal, contact, such as on old suspension joints with grease fittings, NOT on caliper guide pins which are metal to rubber contact. Before pushing the caliper piston fully back into the cylinder, the exterior of the seal should be cleaned with brake cleaner and then treated with a thin layer of synthetic brake lubricant.
New grease should not be added to old grease. A petroleum based grease will cause the sealing boots to deteriorate, swell, and impede free movement of the pins. Mixing petroleum base grease with the synthetic greases used by +90% of all caliper guide pins by the vehicle manufactures will cause the greases to react and become viscous. Excessive grease will cause the pins to hydrolock within the cylinders. If the guide pins are not moving freely, the sealing boots should be removed, the bores and boots should be completely cleaned of grease, and the bot inspected for cracking and swelling. The boots have a working lifetime similar to the brake pads. Boots, guides (aka abutment clips) and any spring clips should be replaced whenever pads are replaced, When lubricating caliper guide pins or sbutment clips, just enough synthetic caliper or silicone grease should be applied to the pins to lubricate them as they pass throughnthe sealing boots restriction into the bores.
Do NOT use a threadlocker unless directed by a vehicle manufacturer . Caliper frame bolts are often torqued to spec without threadlocking compound being used. A long handle wrench or breaker bar should be used for removal, not an impact gun, which will not maintain sustained torque against the tightened fastener.
Retention screws should be removed prior to any other effort to remove a rotor. Regular WD40 is NOT penetrating oil. It does not loosen impacted rust within a close fitting joint. Cleaning the hub where it protrudes through the rotor with a straight bristle wire brush, (not a a work out one), applying a penetrating oil there and to extractor hole threads (if any) and allowing 10 minutes for it to work will greatly ease rotor removal. Striking the center area of the rotor between the studs with a hammer should break up the impacted rust that binds the rotor to the hub. If not done, using the extractor bolts will nost likely cause the rotor to bind more firmly and then suddenly break free, instead of coming off smoothly.
Before installing a rotor, clean the hub where it will protude through the rotor, and the face of the hub free of any rust and apply a thin coating of aluminum or nickle antiseize compound to impede future rusting.
The brake fluid shown in this video is highly contaminated. If the brake fluid in the master cylinder is not clean or light amber color, the brake fluid should be replaced by removing fluid from the master cylinder eservoir with a turkey baster, adding new fluid and then draining though each of the brake lines at the wheels until the fluid runs clear and bubble free at each wheel brake cylinder.
Install wheels using a torque wrench to evenly tighten each bolt or nut to p=spec.
Wrong Lube for slide pins with rubber boots. It will swell the rubber. Use Silicone paste. (i.e Sil Glyde)
Sir I'm no way a mechanic or know much about cars other than the basic maintenance but you explained this so good that I wish you could service my G6 vehicle with this same issue.
I also polish each end of the brake shoes that lay on the caliper and polish that area on the caliper as well. Then grease them. Only makes sense to me. Stock condition is very rough and causes friction.
The only way to really tell if the rotors are warped is with a dial indicator. You also need to test the hub.
Asymmetric and over-torquing of lug nuts is a common reason for rotor warping. Always check your own specs. after any work that required a shop to remove your rims. You'll be surprised what you find sometimes. Also, rotors can be very hard to remove from the hub sometimes. You can always put a couple of bolts with washers and nuts through the carrier bracket holes and force them against the inside of the rotors. Works every time.
Thank you! I hope to learn something new everyday and today I did. At my age I'll probably forget what I learned today when tomorrow arrives(FIFO), but I appreciate your sharing.
Much appreciated 👍👍👍👍
I like to keep a turkey baster to remove fluids quickly.
Comes in handy at times.
Thanks again 🙏🏻
Great explanation man! Very nice job keep it simple
Pretty good information! I've been doing DIY car repair all my life and I picked up some new tips and hints from this. good stuff
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@@joeencinias3748 ok
Thank you for this very detailed and informative video, I cannot understand why there are negative comments when you have taken so much effort to make an easy to follow video to help people. One thing though, if you are doing this yourself it's OK to try the greased pins first, but of you are paying someone it's probably cheaper and easier to have it all done in one time as labour is likely to be the most expensive cost.
I'm with you, it was soo detailed and well done. Who would give it a thumbs down but maybe someone who is jealous of anyone making a good video. Some peoples kids... :-(
Rule #1 Always ignore the Trolls.
I totally agree with your procedures with the exception of automatically replacing rotors and not flushing out existing brake fluid. It's too cheap and easy to bleed out the system of used hydro fluid much the same as it is to have your rotors turned if within spec parameters.
Either way, video is a very honorable presentation.
I'm someone, who does, but not buy flushing. I don't wait for three years to let moisture build up in the system. I replace my brake fluid by bleeding enough annually from each wheel that all the fluid is replaced over 3 years.
It doesn't mattter how shiny your tires, wheels and rotors are if the brake cyninders can't move the pads. When brake fluid is dark brown, what you see is rust and from the water vaprr that got into the fluid and is rusting the metal brake lines and the cylinders internally. For less than $10/year in brake fluid and an hour's time you can make brake cylinders last as long as the car and greatly extend the life of your pads.
I also annually clean and relubricate the pads, pins and glide shims, and inspect the inboard rotor surfaces and drum surfaces as I rotate the tires.
BTW In the last 25 years I've NEVER had to replace opr have turned a brake rotor for scoring, only for rust creep over the swept area of the rotor. (New coated rotors reduce but don;t eliminate that problem.)
Can it be from the rear hub and breaks I did the front the seam way
Thanks for the tutorial well done sir.
How often does the car need new rotors?
Just subscribed like your channel would like to see more auto fixes i like the way you highlight each part.
hello, i have a werid thing on my 01 corolla. the driver side only, the axle is on a diagonal angle pointing backwards. I dont know why, the wheel has play. Help please! nothing seems broken or making any weird noises. i just got the car a few weeks ago
I would have lowered the reservoir before installing new brake pads because the reservoir would most assuredly run over when new thick pads were installed...
Anyone who is NOT SOLVING THE PROBLEM WITH NEW BRAKES your tie rod ends may be or have been bad if they were replaced your tires will have worn uneven and that could continue to cause a shimmy on braking.
This was my exact experience--bad tie rod, drove for a while before figuring out the issue. Replaced tie rods, still had excessive vibration and a bumpy ride till i replaced all 4 tires.
Thanks, great tip and very clear.
Rust buildup on the hub can cause rotor runout too. Most of the time it's the rotor but the hub itself can also have excessive runout, possibly bad wheel bearing.
Bad tie rods and ball joints can also play a role.
How about checking for any excess runout on the rotor and on the hub to see if that could be causing the vibration felt through the steering wheel ?
Can I use a copper grease instead?
Its all good, but the grease. Too many times I've had random caliper freezes on various vehicles, makes and models. Brake grease can and will get hard after heat exposure over the miles. Try this.. Put your hand on the rim surface after a trip. Then swap over to Syl Glide and do the same thing. Notice how much cooler the rim is using Syl glide. Tells you all you need to know about the caliper movement
The brake fluid is corrosive so its a good idea to catch it and not let it drip onto other parts or metal.
Particularly painted items.
In my case.. 2012 Toyota Highlander, I changed the pads and rotor. The steering wheel still shakes. I found out that one of my front brake pistons was frozen because the boot was broken. Replacing the entire caliper assembly fixed the problem.
Thanks for this very informative walk through saved me a lot of money !!🙌 Mechanic at shop said I needed to replace control arm, ball joints,CV joints brake pads ,brake system flush and new tires 😕🤔😤 on my 2011 HHR TOTAL $3,286.72 I TOLD HIM THE DAMN CAR PROBABLY IS WORTH ONLY $ 5 K !!! The problem was exactly what you said Replaced rotor,brake pads, new brake fluid and it is FIXED LIKE NEW !!! IT IS THESE SUPPOSEDLY HONEST SHOPS THAT ARE OUT TO BLEED PEOPLE FOR AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE 😫😒THE SHOP I WENT ADVERTISES THE BIZ AS "HONEST CHRISTIAN OWNERS AND MECHANICS FUCK THESE SOB'S 😂 THE WORST CROOKS AND HYPOCRITES EVER !!!
I hate that.
They Have To Back up and Guarantee Their Work, Sounds Like You Let Basic Maintence Get Way Ahead of You?
Great video, thank you
Thanks Brother
I use a cheap Turkey baster bulb and tube to remove necessary brake fluid from the master cyl. before compressing the cylinders, and check during the process in case it needs more removed. Better than trying to clean up brake fluid around the master.
Whats that grease called please?
Most likely 1 of 3 things from least expensive to most expensive:
Guide pins (red)
Break pads (blue)
Rotors (yellow)
I do believe this is the problem with my car I just bought brand new brakes on but the steering wheel is still shaking badly when I stopped at 55 miles
Did you find the problem?
I did the same way you did the job, but still shakes
Dwayne right time ago the batterie where made strong and last up to 10 years now only last 2 years ,sorry my inglish
I have some large syringes that are given to people at the drug store. I have a small rubber hose/line attached to it for draining things like the brake reservoir. Just insert the hose and pull out the plunger.
Thank you so much.
Can a bent rim also cause a wobbling tire and shaking steering wheel?
Yes, it could unbalance the wheel.
Yes it can
I would add suspension components tie rods ball joints a bad upper ball joint will cause awful Shake
This is about shaking during braking only. Not same thing as shaking when coasting at a given speed.
Those things make the car shake all the time above a certain speed. The video is about shaking when braking only.
I did the front only
Thank you! This is so helpful =)
Use a turkey baster and a old drink bottle/disposable cup to get the excess fluid out of the reservoir
Todd H I used a wire with a piece of rag at the end.
@@alonzocalvillo6702 I would just open a bleeder valve, since the tires already off and then let gravity drain it. use aquarium airline tubing
I got my wife a new baster as a stocking stuffer and boom....I have a pampered chef baster in my tool cart.
Umm why would the guide pins be a problem ?
Sweet Jesus Cruisers!!! I prefer socks with mine.
I don't think you ever need a torch to get those bolts off...
Big breaker bar or big impact should be plenty.
I have a Saturn and it just takes an 18(?) mm combo wrench and a sledge hammer every time.
Little loctite when going back in.
Also, I try to have another set of rotors ahead of time, so that I have lots of time to perhaps get the used rotors resurfaced.
Great video though, Thank you
What brand of pads are you using on this car?
Captain Canuck I never look. I always buy the middle option based on price. Not the most expensive ones or the cheapest.
Is it possible to mess up the break in period on new rotors? Anyone?
Not in my experience. The worst thing will be the smell from the packing grease burning off.
The brake rotor is damaged by heat caused the rotor wobble. It is not worth to fix it. Go to ebay get a set of new rotors with ceramic brake pads. The new rotor has a ventilation hole and slots can run cooler. The ceramic pads are much cooler and better stop distance.
I'm trying to sort my brake problem it's a toyota aygo when I brake from speed (70 to 50mph) there is a vibration felt in the footwell an brake pedle nowhere else .also does not happen blow 50mph .
Checked all the pads DISC'S calipers all greased .
All weights seam to be on the wheels no damage to the wheels and new tyres (1 month old )
So not sure what else there is or could be I'm taken it in too garage to check the wheels an bought a tool to check the discs . If anyone has an idea what it could be plz let me know
Check the rubber bushings between the sway arms and frame
New calipers, rotors, pads, hoses....still shakes at high speed. Any ideas?
I’m having the same problem with a 2000 4Runner, did you ever get that fixed?
Nope....comes and goes. Starting to think it in the drivetrain!?!
@@cutl00senc did you change tie rod ends?
@@vickikoch96 new rack and tie rods
what is the grease name again? I couldn't understand what you said
Molybdenum grease
thank you I appreciate it, just got a new sub
Good. What he said was not just mispronounced, but tne wrong kind of grease and will cause the pins seals to degrade with no indication before they bind. Use synthetic caliper grease or silicone grease. (3M and SilGlyde make the latter kind.) SIlicone grease is clear. When old silicone grease is contaminated or the boots are failing, the grease becomes blackened. .
@@psdaengr911 absolutely right. i learned from experience, and now use silicone grease for the guide pins.
Never said why the wobble happens i always change new pads and rotors same time my pads never where down even half way befor i get wobble n pulsation when braking on freeway ,, its perfect n smooth but only for about 6 to 8 months and hardly any ware and its shaking again??
Im having that same problem on mines. Rotors and brakes new.
Did you figure it out?
It could also be control arms, bearings
That would cause shimmy at any speed.
@@QUICKIRONS i figured it out. It was my calipers. They were done. One was seized up badly the other was super sticky. It was hard to get them off.
At 2:45 you say "Make sure you pump the brakes"..... the caliper is off the disc so this will push the pistons out of the caliper... Please remind them to do this AFTER the caliper is reassembled. DO NOT push the brake pedal if the caliper is not mounted over the brake rotor/disc
And the cap is off the brake fluid resv .
My car shakes after replacing rotors and brake pads. I even greased the slidding pins.. I really dnt know whats going on
Did you figure it out?
I replaced everything; rotors and pads. Defective parts. Problems gone.
I replaced everything brand new and i still have issue
@@oOohdaddy did you end up solving the issue?
Raw Zeno i did i changed rotors and pads i believe rotors were warped cheap ebay stuff
What else could cause shake while braking. I replaced rotors and pads 3 times and the shaking didnt go away.
I also replaced steering rack, power steering pump, tie rods, shocks.........
Please help
I’m having the same issue, any luck ?
same issue here - - dying to find answer rather than endless rotor/caliper replacement
@@4wdtaco594 - same issue here too - - were you able to find solution?
I replaced all 4 rotors and pads on my 2011 acadia 4 months ago and my steering wheel started to shake recently when applying brake but only as im applying brake when im pressing brake passed the half way point close to stopping shake goes away brakes and rotors are ebay items if it matters what could be bad i cleaned everything when i changed brakes and rotors
Same here
Update:it was the rotors they were warped i ordered another set of rotors and pads and vibration is gone
But you said you replaced the rotors also, were the new ones warped?
@@johnmejia573 yes i ordered another set of each and no more shaking
This video is old so idk if anybody will answer but when I go over 50mph and brake, the steering wheel vibrates really bad it feels like it’s going to come apart, will I need to change my rotors ? Or what is it , I really haven’t had a look at the rotors
It’s likely a combination of dry guide pins and worn rotors. I would grease the guide pins and see if it improves.
@@First_Class_Amateur will do thanks man, didn’t expect a reply !
Yes the problem occurs mostly with smaller cars because they are installing paper thin rotors on newer smaller cars I had this problem with a Chevy HHR model. Heat warps the paper thin rotors thats was causes the vibration and you have to change them.
Could you tell me if this would cause the brakes to lock up? Thanks I'm working on a 06 Chevy HHR
If you apply anti seize on the bracket bolts and caliper bolts, you shouldn’t have to use a torch or breaker bar to get them loose again. Just ratchet wrenches is all I used for my 2008 Toyota Corolla. I had to replace rotor, calipers, and brake pads on both fronts bc of my calipers got corrosion inside the caliper and was making my rotor hot.
Antiseize works, but because it acts as a lubricant and reduces the thread friction that is what the torque setting is measuring. It screws up your torque settings so you over torque the bolts.
Bad microphone sounds like it's in the bottom of a box. Hard to tell if you said TAB, PAD, BAD, or SAD etc. Otherwise, thank you for important new tip none of the other brake videos mentioned - where brake fluid goes when compressing caliper pistons. That would explain why my dual pistons were so difficult to compress yesterday - no exit for displaced brake fluid. Today, when I do the other side, I'll use a new check valve bleeder when compressing the pistons.
Seemed fine to me. Judging by your profile pic it may be a hearing issue. Try hearing aids maybe
Or I need a new battery for my hearing aid
As if your profile name is any better jerk lotion!
Awesome!!!!!!! 😎
What's the reasoning behind putting the squeal tab on the piston side?
The piston side wears down faster because it always contacts that brake shoe first.
@@First_Class_Amateur wow, wasn't expecting such a fast reply. Thanks!
@@First_Class_Amateur The piston side wears down faster because it does not experience the additional friction found in the pins needed to overcome to pull the outer pads in.
Thank you, great tips!
now I am replacing guide pins which causes the steering to shake
Don't use pry bar use a c clamp just saying
You'd need a 12" opening C clamp, very expensive, to get over the entire caliper. I use a woodworkers bar clamp with a screw handle.
WHAT KIND A CROCS ARES THOSE...?!
Did you forget to show or lube the edges of the pads to keep them moving smoothly
I've never heard of putting lube (grease) on the brake pads, sound like a fraction fire while driving.
When my Benz is stationary, it vibrates and I am confused, what should I do
Probably motor mounts
Pain...I agree.
What if it still shakes after all of this whenever you break what next?
leonard drone view there is a chance one or both of your control arms are worn. Check and see if the rubber bushings are dry rotted or damaged.
FIRST CLASS AMATEUR Thanks for the reply but they’re both brand new I actually got under there the other day with a prybar the rubber is still very tight not much play
FIRST CLASS AMATEUR It’s mostly over 70 on the highway when it does it
@@leonarddroneview6947 shakes during braking or without braking over 70mph?
Mine started to shake, once in a while for about 5 minutes then it stops, it dont matter whether I apply brakes or not it still shakes, could it be an engine problem??
Swear your voice matches the RC dude that does those videos
I would love to know who this dude is!
Mo-lib-de-num grease
Mostly the rotors problem.
It's discs brake discs not rotors . 😊
CZcams is for video, right?
"CZcams, Broadcast Yourself". Broadcasting is the distribution of audio or video content to a dispersed audience via any electronic mass communications medium in a one-to-many model. A video is just a digital recording of an image or set of images. A Video is made up of Frames which individually are pictures. In fact, a video by definition doesn't even include audio. There was a different picture every few seconds, and he explained what he was showing for every picture in a planned out matter. I liked it because pictures are not as blurry when you pause to look at the details. Its certainly got its share of production blunders. However, Take this in comparison to someone trying to get a good camera angle while showing you what stupid bolt is being removed, all while trying to explain it in real time with bad audio and no clear organization of thoughts while explaining it.
The difference between constructive criticism and destructive criticism is the way in which comments are delivered.
Although both forms are challenging your ideas, character or ability, when someone is giving destructive criticism it can hurt your pride and have negative effects on your self-esteem and confidence. Destructive criticism is often just thoughtlessness by another person, but it can also be deliberately malicious and hurtful. Destructive criticism can, in some cases, lead to anger and/or aggression. Constructive criticism, on the other hand, is designed to point out your mistakes, but also show you where and how improvements can be made. Constructive criticism should be viewed as useful feedback that can help you improve yourself rather than put you down. When criticism is constructive it is usually easier to accept, even if it still hurts a little. In either scenario always try to remember that you can use criticism to your advantage.
“Moly-b-denum” grease, lol.
For reference, it’s pronounced mul-ib-den-um. Otherwise, great video sir!
U should label this as..how to since u didn't show how to check which part causing da vibration when braking...
What are thoooooooooooooose lmao
i fucking hate car problems
Long->Short; it's the rotors
What really happens; rotors very rarely warp and when you make a full stop and hold the brakes hard (stand on the brake pettal) you fuse brake pad material onto the rotor causing a raise in the rotors surface. Then next time you make a stop it will be most likely that the car will stop on that raise causing it to build further up.
Why you don't see rotors "warp" on new cars.. drive by wire prevents any access brake pressure at full stops because it's the computer controlling your brake pressure and it's programed to only use enough force to prevent the car from moving because they want to prevent too much brake pad material from fusing onto the rotor.
More stuff you might want to know, best braking happens when the rotors are bedded in or "broken in" and this is because you have a layer of brake pad material coating the entire surface of the rotor that the pads contact.
If you think about it you'd realize that rolling objects don't stop on high spots, and brake pads wouldn't preferentially stop where the rotor was thicker or deviated farther from true.
If there were a durable lasting coating , then the rotors would never flash rust overnight.
Most front disc brake pads are a mix of a clay or ceramic with metal particles and none of the others use materials that melt below 800F. Pads do not coat rotors, they abrade them.
Modern brake pad material doesn't melt or fuse to rotors at the low temperature that brakes work at, which is well under the melting point of lead. Instead, a foreign material such as grease or tar forms a glaze on the pads or a hard material like sand gets embedded in the pads and causes the rotor and pad to erode and not make even contact, and like an asphalt highways, once there's a bump or a dip, it gets worse.
Maybe there was confusion. I'm talking about rotors warping. I would agree that foreign material can get in-between, but i very much doubt that would cause a warp but definitely can cause ridges all the way around the rotor leaving those rings.
I would look into bedding in breaks, the brake pads most definitely do fuse onto the rotor at high temperatures. Never mentioned melting.
P Schmied there's thoughts and words that are injected that I never said
Don’t use a torch around brake fluid or you can catch your car on fire, maybe your garage too.
The rotors get over heated that is why they warp.. also because of the cheap steel from china .. At one time Napa sold American made parts but bot the case anymore they all come from china or another foreign country .. It is all about the corporate profit... Look at how all the vehicles are rusting after 3 or 4 years.. My opinion is it is all the recycled steel that comes out of china .. what are you're thoughts ?
dwayne marshall China China China
If you own a parts store such as NAPA, guess where you will be buying most of your parts from? Thats right..it's China. It's cheaper to manufacture in countries such as China so stop complaining.
Actually ,the Iron Ore in China is Second in Hardness,Only to Germany.Used Oreillys House Brand of Rotors Made in China,Never Had A Set Warp from Overheating.Lots of Train Wheels Made in China.My Cousin Use to Refurbish Train Cars,&Said Rarely Had to Change Out Wheels Made in China or Germany.Craftsmanship in China Is Another Story ,Though.
Rotor warp is rare, one of the first things I learned from my teacher in highschool that was a master mechanic specializing is metallurgy was that. What happens when you think you have a warped rotor is brake compound material has built up on a spot of the rotor due to holding the brakes hard at a stop, fusing material onto the rotor. Then next time you stop it will most likely stop at that thicker spot and over time build to something you feel in the pettal and maybe steering wheel.
Gabriel Soria true story. warped rotors are a myth. even on the race track it’s hard to get steel rotors to warp. and no amount of driving on public roads will ever generate that kind of heat in the brakes.
I have 2 impact guns 22s 💪👈👉💪
Nice
The real reason brakes pulse is from over torqued wheel nuts. Torque the wheel nuts to the vehicle manufacturers specifications. If you over torque you will warp the rotors.
Ahahaha
Absolutely correct re:making sure the lugs are torqued to spec. Very important. Tire replacement shops (and auto dealer shops) both don't seem to care about 1. the correct torque for your vehicle's lug nuts and 2. consistent torque for your vehicle's lug nuts. I have corrected what appears to be warped brake rotors on my vehicles by re-torquing the lug nuts. It may take a few miles of start/stop driving for the rotors to come back into "flat", but mine have. Best precaution is what's mentioned above...make sure your lug nuts are torqued to spec after getting new tires...and, after a rotation.
and you must be a sucker who pays for unnecessary brake jobs. LOL
It's more likely that the wheels weren't mounted true and/or the rotors weren't held flat against the hubs and the improper fastener tightening sequence or torque held that misalignment.
It's a good idea to retorque wheels after driving on them for a while, regardless of whether you did it yourself or whether a torque wrench or air wrench with torque stick was used.
btw, NOTHING ever had a torque spec measured in ft/lb. The Toyota and Honda cars and small suvs that I've had all had wheel fastener torques of 80 lb-ft or 108 N-m.
First of all, there's no way to know if balance weights are missing. Why??? Because they're missing.
Additionally; if a wheel is incorrectly balanced, you would more likely notice it in the form of wheel wobble & excessive vibration in the steering wheel while driving (usually at freeway speeds)...much more than when braking. As for steering wheel shaking when braking; I've noticed the inferior quality of steel or imported off-brand brake rotors (that warp much easier when heated) play a major part in this system failure.
LOL
u push down on that brake pedal ,,without the cap on res. ...ur going to have a big mess under the hood and on ur engine ...of brake fluid
This guy assumes all car are made the same , " your gonna have to remove that bar " lol my Volvo ain't got that bar
You need pointers to show what you're referring to. It's like me showing you a class picture of 300 faces and saying "that's my brother". If you don't know me, how in the hell, are you going to identify my brother? And if I know about fixing brakes, chances are, I'm not going to be watching this video. The exploded color diagram was excellent, but when you went to a real brake, I was lost.
Out of 113k views, your comment was most helpful. I always forget that sometimes I'm the only one who knows what I'm thinking. Thanks!
As my Brother used to say, when we were growing up, it's wonderful to have you around me all the time. You're a perfect example of what I shouldn't be doing !! The perfect example for auto vlogs is CHRISFIX. Camera views that make Stephen Spielberg take notes. Almost every shot done on a tripod. And his trademark move "you never see his face". Wishing you the best Buddy. p.s. I still haven't done a brake job.
LOL!!!!!! You are not a mechanic!!!
Please don't put a paper towel into your brake master cylinder, it will introduce foreign matter into the brake fluid.
Instead use a Turkey Baster
You ain't no Scotty Kilmer
Instead of using multiple paper towels to absorb the brake fluid out of its reservoir just use a $1.00 Turkey baster. It's easier, faster, cleaner, and environmentally friendly.
you're not taking off your tire, bro, that's your wheel
Grease on caliper pin??big no,no!
Maybe you're kidding, but if not, I respectfully disagree. The pins come greased and they have grease seals.If they aren't greased regularly, they can rust and sieze or allow the calipers to rattle badly over bumps. The grease acts as a cushion besides lubicating the pins so the pins can allow the caliper to slide when the piston is extended.
Of course The Gee-tha and the rear brakes often seize quicker (the pins I mean) and the caliper doesn't move and get stuck wearing out the brakes. A quick test is checking the heat on the rotor by holding a finger near (no onto :-) ) it. The rear axle is fixed and catches wind and water most of the time from 1 direction only, if you commute long distances on the high way and in winter the salt is added to the road conditions most likely the bumps in the road are less, not so much braking going on so dirt and salt can easily clog up the brakes. The front however switches direction all the time because of the steering action on going (wind, water direction hitting differs) plus if the cars hits a bump the front axle gets the biggest hit cleaning it out. The other way around is wearing out the 'rubber' brake line: the front suffers more than the rear (due to twisting the steering) so it mostly needs to be replaced earlier.
Of course, you grease caliper pins or guides. Preferably with a silicone grease. If you are smart you do a check yearly. Your brakes will not function properly if a pin seizes, you will get uneven pad wear. I do it when I do my summer to winter tire change.
don684 ,all the pins were seized on my rav4 ,took em out with effort cleaned em up put em back in, lost my grease so had to use lithium grease, car has been unusable since .
Simon Baker ? What lol so you fixed it and brakes don't work
Lot of ass scratching stuff all these so called brake and disc fix crap. Bye new disc., s good Ferodo brakepads not the cheap & R#@ from the Chinese store and fitt them. Any cheap backyard job on brakes is looking for trouble. There are no cheap solutions for break and stearing shudders, it will be fine for 500 km then prob is back. End of story.
Fail. You are worse than amateur. First of all, steering shake on braking is more likely to be a tie rod end, not brake issue. Never use impact gun to remove caliper pin bolts. Use a longer handle wrench or spark plug ratchet with socket. Moly B is not correct grease for pins, White Lithium is. Should remove excess from master cylinder before pushing pistons back. When collapsing pistons into caliper, 1st assure the rubber is intact and clean, the tool you used is designed to push both in simultaneously. Do this slowly. Be sure that the rubber collapses correctly w/o creasing, crushing, tearing.
If you have brake issue, particularly warped rotors usually felt in brake pedal, not steering shake. Brake issue can cause a pull to either side on braking though but rarely shake in steering. You needed new pads anyway so NBD. Steering shake, yes on braking, is usually caused by worn or damaged tie rod ends. Pay someone to do it if you don't already know how.
You never said what was done to stop a wobble. I don't believe you solved anything and its not the job of the brakes hold the wheels straight. I also appears that you just let the brake fluid overflow while pushing the pistons in. Lazy and careless. Makes a mess and removes paint. You also let that filthy brake fluid remain in the entire system.
Not impressed.