How to change a broken wheel stud || How to tighten wheel nuts correctly.
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- čas přidán 21. 07. 2024
- I was nearly in a world of pain with this dumb mistake... I rushed rotating my tyres and well… forgot to tighten the rear wheel nuts on the passenger side of the 105 Landcruiser! If I’d driven much further the wheel would have come off and left me stranded on the side of the road!!! Check out how I sorted it out.
I show you how to change the wheel studs and also how to correctly tighten up the wheel nuts on a wheel.
Why I use oil instead of grease with wheel bearings. - • Wheel bearings - Why I...
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My LC 200 front wheel came off in zimbabwe after abot 5000km whilst touring. I suspected the nuts werent tightened, but after yr vid I think too tight is the answer! 1 stud was broken and nuts all loosened up. I thought broken stud was last but now im convinced it was first ! Thnx and greetings from SAfrica
Great description of the right way to do that repair Matt, anti- sieze or grease is a fantastic way to protect the wheel studs and nuts , especially on a 4wd. Keep doing what you do Matt , cheers Geoff
Good to see the stud replacement done in an easy to replicate manner. I've never had a stud break on the Landy, had them undone on a previous car by a twot and thankful of the locking nut on that occassion. The M16 LR D1/Defender stud torque is dependant on rim, but 130-170nm, I do the alloys to 150nm, a little tighter than spec, but never had a problem.
Lovely ep , bugger about the wheel nuts memory getting older, I agree with the oil in the bearings last heaps longer, I use operate tandem tipper trucks the oil bath bearings lasted twice if not three times as long as the packed in grease bearings, so been running a bit of Diff oil in my Toyota bearings for around 38 years.
Been a while since you posted a video welcome back. I've always used a long handle 1/2" ratchet to set the studs. Light coating of grease on the studs and on face of the axle to prevent rust from locking steel rims. Also electrolysis between the steel and mag rims can create pitting of the mating surface of the mag rim. Light coating of grease is worth a pound of cure.
Just putting a list of spares to carry for the big trip and I've forgotten wheels studs...both 4x4 and camper! Thanks Matt.
Seeing someone put the wheel studs on like you did is very good to allay the doubter in me that says "I'm not doing it properly and should be using a press" and all the BS that entails.
So glad I could help
Great vid. I decided years ago that I no longer will I trust anybody with torque and my wheel nuts. I too use anti seize so reduce torque by 30% down from OEM specs using a torque wrench on my Dmax. I do carry a spare set of front and rear studs, different lengths. If wheels come of at service or tyre change or rotation, I take responsibility for my wheel nut torque.
A good reminder and very easy to follow video. I always carry a wire wrench with an extendable handle like a cheater bar. That way I'm always sure to always get the nuts out for a wheel change. Sometimes they can vibrate or bind and be a pain to remove with usual poor car default tools. After using some antiseize, I never have had a problem though. Always have the extension there as a safety.
I took my 33" mud tires off my Isuzu Trooper back in 2004 and threw them in my small trailer for an off-road excursion 12 hours away. I put my highway tires on the rig and headed out....without torquing the lugs. I got 30 minutes down the road when the vibrations hit. Thank goodness I pulled over quickly, found the issue, then tightened all the nuts down. Not damage or breakage....but I've never forgotten to torque lug nuts again!
My wife, when she was much younger, had new tires put on her car. The shop didn't torque one of the wheels. It fell off as she was driving down the road! Luckily it didn't hit anything and she was able to land her car on the side of the road.
Great video! Thanks
Thanks for sharing.
She made it so easy to understand. Appreciate the safety tips!!
Glad it was helpful!
Happens to the best of us. Just last night i noticed a wobble, pulled over just in time. The act of pulling over pooped the tire off and it came to a stop with the rotor resting on the inner rim. Four studs sheared, two bent beyond attachment of rim and tire. Have to go back later today and change the studs and install new lugs. Hoping i dont have to change the hub assembly (hopefully okay , atleast looks that way).
Glad your okay mate. 🎉 God bless.
Wow LUCKY
Great video matt..thanks again
Changed a wheel stud on the Troopy a while ago. First time doing it. I did pretty much everything you did, except the little tip about aligning the stud and rotating it before tightening. Thanks for the clear, simple instructions.
Did you change the other studs as well or just the one? I’d suggest it’s worth doing all of them.
@@MadMatt4WD Just replaced one. Snapped it while loosening it to repair a tube. I reckon the nuts were over-tightened with the rattle gun at the tyre shop. Will get the torque wrench onto them later today and check them all. As you've suggested, I'll buy some spares. That's a good idea.
Something to really pay attention to, I did almost the same thing on my trailer. Took a wheel off to rotate with the spare. Hand tighten the nuts, got distracted and drove form Townsville to Armidale, we were 25-30km out of Armidate and luckily on a back road with no traffic. We get a call from a random behind us on the radio "hey mate, your tailor wheel just flew off and into the bush"... So lucky there was no one else around or coming the other direction... That was nearly 20years ago now, never not torque to spec, then double check any time I pull a wheel off. Thanks for sharing with the community, as always a pleasure to watch...
Gee lucky you guys had the cab on ay.
Good tips. Thanks Matt
I got a great big chuckle from your comment, "let's not kid ourselves, it's a land cruiser hand break". I bought a used '78 FJ55, and the parking break didn't work. I fixed it after a few years of ownership, and within, I'd say 6 months to a year, it was worthless again. Thanks for the 40 year old flash back. 😂
😂😂
Another great vid
I have been setting my breaker bar to VFT all these years. I think I’ll replace my studs before the next trip and keep a few for spares. I think your not the first person to use the phone one handed. 😊
Keep up the great work Matt. 👏👏👏
On older trucks it’s be worth changing studs as a matter of course.
@@MadMatt4WD will do. Off to see T T
Later today. Thanks 😊
Hi Matt, Nice video and good clear explanation. I agree that having and using a torque wrench is important for all structural/safety joints. It ensures the axial load in the bolt and the clamp force of the two parts is as intended by the designer.
One thing to check when using a lubricant on fasteners is the correct tightening torque value.
As generally the specs noted by the manufacturer are for non lubricated studs/bolts and nuts. Adding the protective lubricant generally means you need to tighten them to a lower torque for the same axial load/clamp force.
So using the dry joint torque spec on a lubricated joint may stress it above the intended design level.
A number of people have raised this. Good point
Excellent tip!
It must be the year for it... You and Ronny Dahl and me too! I had the exact same wheel (back passenger) come off for similar reasons. I did a wheel rotation at home, put the last wheel on (the back passenger) and then went around and double checked that I tightened all the other wheels. If you're clever, you might have noticed that I missed a wheel in that statement haha... Yup, didn't tighten the back left wheel. I lost two or three out of six studs at 100kph, all six lug nuts were gone, and the wheel was just hanging on by a thread. I miraculously managed to pull over with the wheel still on the last studs (barely). In the end, it only cost me $60 in studs and $25 to replace a hub ring + lug nuts. I was very lucky.
We’re lucky chaps I’d say
Matt, never lost a wheel, had one intentionally loosened by someone though... I use anti-seize on the splined area on wheel studs before seating them (rust/heat welding)...
I have done the same thing. Forgot to tighten nuts with my Warren and Brown. Was front wheel. the vibration i was getting i put down to the muds i just put on. I have 3 sets rims set up one road one ATs one muds. Not used the muds in a while and thought i had just lost wheel weight.. When the vibration got so much worse i stopped and found the problem. Yep not tight. All 6 loose and rim was stuffed. It had elongated the holes in the rim. Changed to spare and dodged a bullet as i was towing 2 ton camper as well. I always use lube on studs and fit up tyres and valve stems with rubber grease as well. This helps a lot with air loss from bead and valve stem.
Well done on saving yourself from a disaster.
I once took a car for a test drive from a car yard. We took off up the road with the dealer in the passenger seat. We only got about 300 metres and the right rear wheel came off the car and overtook us 😂 Turns out someone had removed the wheel nuts off every car on the yard and left just one on each wheel! Was an exciting time 😂
😂 that’s a crazy thing to do. Must have been ticked of
@@MadMatt4WD yes, I can’t imagine anyone ever having an issue with a car dealer 😂😂
@@officialWWM 😁
hi matt, thx for sharing and the effort to cut, upload the video.
in some parts i am with you and in others i have a different approach. here my 5cts
- first of all. if you use anti seeze (any grease would do the job) you cant use the factory specs of torque, because of the grease you have less friction. instead of 100pounds you put near to 150 pounds or so and this will damage the studs. could be a reason why your stud broke off.
- after taking off a wheel you should retourque the nuts after the next ride. i wouldnt wait 100miles.
- make it habbit to retourque the nuts once awhile
- before installing a new stud, i would clean the hole in the hub to get rid off the corrision, than install the new stud with some loctide.
- clean the brake parts whith breakcleaner spray and lubricate the gliding pin of the caliper
- bearings: i dont know landcruisers specs, i drive a landrover s2a, but i guess its all the same. never heart of bearings running on oil, always grease. bearings can get quite hot and oil looses its lubrication, but could be a landcruiser thing. i will watch your video. and this stribes on your hub looks like an oil leak
forgot to mention ... in 45 years never experienced loosing a wheel. the closes i got was when i forgot to tighten all nuts from one wheel. but you feel the wobling after a few meters.
cheers from south america
An extra 2cents, most new oe studs I've seen are black and oily, rarely dry zinc like matts was supplied above. The factory could be basing their figures on lightly oiled threads. Oil in bearings works on LR Defenders, leaving the inner seal out, like a LC, but risks leaks, as there's only the one seal.
Fully agree on re torquing the nuts after a short drive with new studs. Nice to hear you're using a 2a :)
I always use lube on the studs and only had wheels come loose once because I had only "finger tightened" them; I think that is what happened because it was a vehicle I had not driven in a while, I had just taken the front wheels off to check the brakes or rotate the tires, and after I felt the vibrations I checked both front wheels and each and every wheel bolt (2001 VW Golf they use bolts instead of nuts) each one was the exact same amount of loose on both front wheels. I put 686,000 km on those front wheel hubs and only had that problem once.
You use the same method as I do. I have a lot of used lugs so I always try to use my spare lugs instead of the original. sometimes depending on what I am working on, The splines on the stud will reveal a little past the flange. the large nut gives room for those splines and centers everything when the lug taper seats in. I also grease the large nut on both sides and the lug and threads because some studs can be a hard press and needs all the help it can get to slide in with less friction. Grease threads also helps keep from stretching the treads when it is a tough one. Then I spray stud treads with brake clean to remove grease.
THANK YOU DETAIL VIDEO
Good job
I had the same experience as you except I didn't mount the wheel. The technician did tell me to re-torque the wheels after 100 miles of driving but I didn't follow through. I had 2 out of 5 studs break and the holes wore slotted. Needless to say, I am more apt to re-check wheel bolt torque now. I might add that this is with aluminum alloy wheels not steel.
I think I dodged a bullet with my wheels there was no evidence of the wheels being damaged.
Probably also good to put little bit of anti seize around the holes a little bit hood vid love your work
I think just on the thread is suitable.
Sir your videos are very nice❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
It just happened to me a few nights ago. I was at a red light when it turned green, I pressed the gas pedal and heard a bang, grinding noises then the car started wobbling. Thinking it was a flat I pulled in to a gas station. Halfway up the entrance I see a tire roll passed me and car wouldn't move any further. I'm just glad it didn't happen on the freeway! who knows how that would've ended up!!!
Yeah close call ay
To overfill the diff oil I jack up the drivers wheel nice and high pull the fill plug and put another 400ml, saves mucking about with the breather and syringes, just a suggestion 👍
Yeah that could work. It’s never been a hassle for me but that’s a great idea. Thanks.
Matt, I don't own a rattle gun so this will not happen to me but also I have never torqued anything as I also do not own a torque wrench.. I just do them up with a + bar and do them hand tight nothing more and that is how I have done it for many years both on my 4wd's and my cars and have not had any issues ever... I do notice over the past 10 or so years the service centres tend to over-tighten wheel nuts so they are very very hard to undo manually and I now ask them Not to over-tighten them as I cannot undo them when needed, they are happy to do that for me. I do most of the maintenance myself but I do take my vehicles to a service place once a year to get a full check over just in case there is something I have missed or if there is something I cannot do (due to having back issues) or do not know how to but I have learnt a lot watching your channel and a few other YT channels to do things myself... I have seen wheels come off from cars and trucks over the many years of driving a semi interstate but luckily personally nothing has occurred to my vehicles.
Well done. Thanks for the comment
I carry a torque wrench at all times in my 4WD. Patrols have a very small locating ring and it's not too hard to get a wheel on that's not properly located - especially true of the many wrong fitment steel wheels people whack on. Many "universal" 6 stud steel wheels don't locate on the hub with anything other than the wheel nuts, over the years I've heard of dozens of Patrols losing the left rear wheel .
Lithium grease for the wheel studs 👍🍻
Never lost a wheel or broke a stud. Did have a vehicle that the threads were pulling off due to a lifetime of service shops over torquing them. Last time I came home from the tire shop I checked the torque. They were all 120 to 130 ft lbs and spec is for 100 ft lbs.
Your published torque settings for wheel studs are dry settings. If you torque them up to the published 100 ft pounds (nm?), when you’ve applied grease to the threads - that creates a multiplier effect, where a lubricated torque setting of 200ft pounds might be getting applied, while the torque wrench is only clicking at the set 100ft pounds.
It’s quite possible that your fatigued broken wheel stud failed because you’ve previously over torqued it by applying grease and then torqued to a dry torque setting on a lubricated thread.
If you search hard enough you might find a published lubricated torque setting for those wheel studs.
Next, (especially on the side of the road) never hit your wheel studs on the end with a hammer.
Always screw the wheel nut onto the stud and hit on the end of the wheel nut to drive the stud out, because you don’t want to roll the thread on the end of the stud and make it unusable afterwards.
Reason?
If it’s frozen in there and not removable, then you’ve lost the choice to leave it in there and re-fit your wheel. So you now can’t remove it and you also can’t replace it or re-use it. 😉
If you put the nut back on and hit that, you don’t damage the thread on the stud so you then still have choices.
Once you’ve driven the stud largely out, then you can hand loosen the nut from the stud & remove it.
If you hadn’t butchered the remaining 4 or 5 old studs, you could have thrown them in the bottom of the ash tray or glove box, or the tool box, and they would have been there for you or anyone else out there on the road to use in an emergency to get them out of a pickle on the side of the road.
JC Auto Expert did a whole video on threads and nuts and wet / dry toque settings.
When your assembling a rebuilt engine many of the mains and big end caps bolts are lubricated before assembly, so the torque settings published are wet torque settings not dry.
And those high grade bolts are torque to yeild settings where once torqued the bolts are stretched to a pre determined length to apply the required clamping force, so they cannot be re-used, because once stretched, you can’t use the published wet torque figures, you must use new bolts every time (same with head bolts for eg.
So there is a little more to the physics and engineering behind the topic that your “advising others on via CZcams”.
It would be preferable that others got “correct advice” if possible.
Maybe search up JCs video on the topic, he goes into some detail.
But the principle applies equally to wheel studs was my point.
When your using torque settings, adding lubricant (just to make them easier to remove next time, alters the clamping force markedly if you still apply dry torque specs to the point you might actually be setting yourself up for premature failure n future is all.
Not criticising just trying to help others not make the same mistakes is all. 👍
Others has raised the wet torque subject and I am aware of it although failed to mention it. I’m planning to do a follow up video on that. I watched JCs video and it’s quite good for sure. I like your point about looking after them if working on the side of the road but I think in that case I’d only change the broken ones and do a proper job at home. As for carrying the old ones I’d rather have new units as spares.
I usually tighten just enough to pull it in a little, then mount the wheel and tighten to the torque spec, and tighten again regularly for the first couple weeks.
Do you find they tighten each check?
I haven't had any 4x4 wheels come off but I did have front wheel come off my old HQ HOLDEN one's doing a 110kmh that wasn't a fun afternoon 😵💫
Yikes
Have had both a car tire and a trailer tire come completely off. Both times were from the tire shop crossthreading the wheel studs. You get lots of damage when the wheel falls off. Trailer was a complete write-off, the car was a $4000 U.S. repair bill.
Oh Wow that sucks. As i say in the video start the nuts by hand so they don't get cross threaded.
Great content as always. Question - the original wheel studs and the new ones, you greased/anti-sieze them. Would that change the torque spec of the wheel nuts since the friction is reduced resulting in an increased stretch before the torque setting was reached? While it is likely barely measurable on a light-duty vehicles like the common 4WD ute and wagon compared to the torque settings on heavy vehicles, over time could it subsequently reduce the service life of the studs but taking them past the yield point? Could they be considered over-tightened at OEM spec 100ft-lb?
Watch my response video today.
@@MadMatt4WD good on you Matt. Ive watched the video. Like you, i anti-sieze the threads with just a dab, reduced torque accordingly and haven't had an issue - and I change wheels a lot (an on-road and off-road set).
Your ability to open up a forum of conversation in simple terms on even the complex issues all in the name of safety and 4wd enjoyment is 2nd to none.
@@Mouldyturnip75 thanks mate.
@brettbarrett7670 your comment is spot on. Take a look at a copy of something like the "Ajax Fastener Handbook" that you can find online with out too much trouble from a web search. From Issue 99 of that document, Table 20 sets out the torque adjustment recommended based on different fastener surface condition. Interestingly, degreased Zinc plated fasteners (according to the handbook) require less torque than lightly oiled plain finished steel. I picked this point of detail up from a John Cadogan video review of wheel nut torquing and the use of anti-/never-sieze, similar to Matt's piece here. The Ajax reference is handy because it refers to Australian standards, which is a nice touch for those of us from this part of the world.
I’ve come close to losing a wheel, only 2 nuts left on wheel holding on by 3 threads
I had a rear wheel fly off while driving down the middle of a large mult-lane highway. Amazing, no other vehicles were hit by the flying tire. I had so much adrenaline flowing and was shaking so I had to get one of my kids dial my phone to get a tow truck. Coincidentally, I had checked the torque earlier that morning and everything was fine. I have no idea why it failed. I did notice that three of the studs were missing the nuts and two of the studs had sheared off.
Oh wow. It would be scary watching the wheel fly down the road and hoping it doesn’t do any damage.
But how were 3 of then missing the nuts? Unless I'm missing something, it sounds like possible sabotage on those 3 nuts.... 🤔
@@xallstatex2910 This happened close to 15 years ago, but I do remember deciding to check the nuts just before driving so I know that no one touched them after that. I'm guessing that they had previously been overtightened. The whole process from starting to feel a vibration until the wheel came off was less than a minute.
That's not the way to install studs mate, at least not when you have a choice in the matter anyway.
It is a good method to show for when you find yourself doing it on the side of the road though. If you do use the nut method, take the car for a 5km or so drive afterwards and then retorque them, then do it again after 100km or so. The nut method doesn't do a fantastic job of seating the head of the stud against the back of the flange (it will often be a little loose, or a little out of square). After a bit of a drive around some corners you may find they've loosened up just a touch. You already know what that gets you....
No matter how you go about installing them, lubricate the splines on the new ones with oil (not grease). WD40 or engine oil are fine to use for that. It makes them go in a bit easier and helps prevent galling of the splines.
Your old ones were definitely stuffed. Not sure if it was fretting from the wheel or necking, but you can clearly see the reduced diameter at the flange end of the thread.
The right way of doing it is to remove the hub and do it in a press. If you're installing them into a new hub you'll have to use a press as the spline in the hub is formed by the stud the first time you install them. You also need to use a close fitting piece of heavy wall pipe to support the casting so that it doesn't crack.
The next best option for replacing studs, or for those that don't have and don't want to buy a press is to use a ball joint separator. Depending on what one you have you might need to remove a brake shoe for clearance, but they'll put the stud in no problem. You'll also want to use a washer to protect the hub face and make sure to grease the thread on the seperator.
The issue with the nut method is that you're relying on those studs having been replaced a number of times in order for them to be loose enough that you don't damage the new ones forcing them in.
Also, when you run grease or antisieze on the studs, reduce the install torque by 20%. For alloy wheels on a 100 series that puts them at 80ft/lb.
The torque required is to produce a certain amount of stretch in the bolt and consequently a certain clamping load between the wheel and hub face. By greasing the stud you substantially reduce the friction in the thread (which is a good thing) so more of the applied torque is stretching the stud. You can calculate it all out based on the thread pitch, bolt radius, applied torque and Young's modulus of the stud to see exactly how much torque is lost for a specific coefficient of friction, but 15-20% is a good rule of thumb.
And you're not alone either. I've done pretty much exactly the same thing. By the time the first one fired off into the bush the other 4 were so badly damaged that I couldn't get them tightened and by the time I got to my destination where I could get replacements and deal with it I only had two left.
Great comment and some excellent points I didn’t consider.
Did you first find out you stuffed up when you were totally clean ?
Lol. Nah half way through and then drove slowly home from the car wash.
@@MadMatt4WD If I work on a car I am one black unholy mess with eye holes.
@@neddyladdy 🤣🤣🤣 Some guys seem to have the gift of getting dirty. Some of the guys i've worked with over the years are certainly gifted in that area.
🍻
Matt, did it ever occur to you that the slightly loose nuts were not the problem but just maybe the very common cause of 'shit' behind the rim and what we see in the video on the brake drum. All it takes is a few grains of sand dropping down into the rim/drum interface and voilla, wheels come loose. From my experience over 50 years of 4WDing and watching the very first alloy rims being used, this was always the issue until we figured out there is no 'coining' in an alloy rim (steel rims also have sharper points of contact so many 4wders were caught out with dirt/sand issues with alloys) and apart from tight wheel nuts the mating surface cleanliness is paramount. I reckon your horrible (dont ever use these worst tool in the shed, its just laziness) rattle gun at second stage torque likely was ok, its more likely the dirt and shit..... Maybe a video to complete the lesson is worthwhile....
In this case I know I didn't tighten the wheel nuts when I dropped it off the hoist so in this case no it wasnt dirt. I give the mating surfaces a clean before I fit my wheels which would have been a good point to add into the video.
Like any tool if used correctly its a good tool but missused it can be a bad tool. Rattle guns are a great tool if used right. There is a real temptation to use them to tighten everything though and I've found that a spanner check is always warrented.
If you haven't got a torque wrench, don't guess, buy a torque wrench and Carry it with you.
I had a front wheel come off my car 1 time
That would be the worst I think
Wheel came off my Fiat at 50mph on the motorway. Very scary! not nice, no idea how or why, police think there was a state of alloy wheel thefts from the motorway services and most likely they'd loosened the bolts but got disturbed. Not fun lots of damage to the calliper brake lines and lower wishbone - sold the car on with full disclosure very quickly.
Wow that crazy. Glad all was ok in the end
Expect your bearings to stuff up.Never ever run bearings in oil (doesn't work) even though you do it that way.
So how often are we changing all the bearings in our gearboxes and diffs?
This is why you put a piece of blue tape on each wheel. Final torque check, pull the tape. I’m a motorcyclist. Wheel-nuts and or wheels flying about on the roadway, will kill me.
I think a flying wheel could kill any road user. It’s certainly not ideal.
Or flying rubber from disintegrating truck retread tyres.
@@MadMatt4WD true but given a choice, I’d choose to be in my truck.
@@Ted...youtubee I hit one that flew up and hit my buddy’s bike behind me. Bent his foot board and took out his rear brake light switch.
@@MaxairEngineering Oh for sure being on a bike is vulnerable.
talk about doing it the hard way.get a normal wheel nut that fits and tighten it up + the other nuts must have been loose to have it vibrate
I didn’t have a normal nut. I said that and I never tightened them up which was the problem.
ronny dahl's prime example of why steel wheels are best
I had a wheel nut disappear off a front wheel that had been checked for air leakage by a tyre business. Another nut was loose. Unfortunately the lost nut was an anti theft one but I sacrificed one from the rear spare. The moral of this story is: don’t trust anyone but yourself to tighten up your vehicle’s wheel nuts. (Not the ones hanging off the tow ball btw)! 😂👍🏻🙏🦘
😂