Had the same problem with a double-wedge Cannondale EBB that was stuck fast. After removing pedal cranks, I tried, unsuccessfully to tap out the non-threaded wedge. Saw a tip online, which I tried: remove circlip, washer & allen-bolt; soak the EBB body with WD40, re-attach crnks &c., take bike for short spin. The stuck EBB body finally worked loose. This does not sort out the other design defects, of course, but requires less 'percussive engineering'.
Install the bolt in the non threaded side, and if it's fully threaded then screw two m5 nuts down all the way to the non-threaded wedge side. Loosen the nut closest to the non-threaded wedge just enough to allow the bolt to turn without binding. Tighten the nuts against each other so they won't work themselves loose (just like on a cup and cone hub) when you turn the bolt via the hex head. That should mimic the functionality of the weak cir-clip. If the hex nuts that you put on don't clear the eccentric bottom bracket shell, you could file or angle grind the corners down to give clearance. If you have a partially threaded bolt, then you could add a tube as a spacer between the doubled nuts for the non-threaded section of bolt to push against the non-threaded wedge. Finally, GXP bottom brackets are nearly the same as the original Shimano HT2 bottom brackets with a 44mm OD (they use the same removal spanner as Shimano) and 24mm ID on the RHS, but they have a 22mm ID on the LHS. Shimano's new bottom brackets (BB-R60/BB-MT800) have a 41mm OD that might help your clearance issue between wedge and bottom bracket. You could either use only the RHS of the new Shimano BB, or you could use both sides if you get a 22/24mm adapter, easily available on an auction site.
Had the same problem with a double-wedge Cannondale EBB that was stuck fast. After removing pedal cranks, I tried, unsuccessfully to tap out the non-threaded wedge. Saw a tip online, which I tried: remove circlip, washer & allen-bolt; soak the EBB body with WD40, re-attach crnks &c., take bike for short spin. The stuck EBB body finally worked loose. This does not sort out the other design defects, of course, but requires less 'percussive engineering'.
Install the bolt in the non threaded side, and if it's fully threaded then screw two m5 nuts down all the way to the non-threaded wedge side. Loosen the nut closest to the non-threaded wedge just enough to allow the bolt to turn without binding. Tighten the nuts against each other so they won't work themselves loose (just like on a cup and cone hub) when you turn the bolt via the hex head. That should mimic the functionality of the weak cir-clip.
If the hex nuts that you put on don't clear the eccentric bottom bracket shell, you could file or angle grind the corners down to give clearance. If you have a partially threaded bolt, then you could add a tube as a spacer between the doubled nuts for the non-threaded section of bolt to push against the non-threaded wedge.
Finally, GXP bottom brackets are nearly the same as the original Shimano HT2 bottom brackets with a 44mm OD (they use the same removal spanner as Shimano) and 24mm ID on the RHS, but they have a 22mm ID on the LHS. Shimano's new bottom brackets (BB-R60/BB-MT800) have a 41mm OD that might help your clearance issue between wedge and bottom bracket. You could either use only the RHS of the new Shimano BB, or you could use both sides if you get a 22/24mm adapter, easily available on an auction site.
can you not get a different eccentric BB model/brand?
Canyon has the same, absolutley awful.