Gen 3 Dual Battery System Installation for the 2010-2024 Toyota 4Runner.
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- čas přidán 11. 12. 2022
- Shane from Genesis Offroad shows you just how easy it is to install the Gen 3 dual battery system for the 5th gen 2010-2024 Toyota 4Runner! This system is designed to protect your cranking battery from being drained down by your aftermarket accessories, so you don't get stuck with a dead cranking battery. No wiring is necessary since our kits come completely pre-wired for you right out of the box.
To learn more or to order this kit, visit www.genesisoffroad.com/gen3-4...
For questions or support, call us at 901-214-5337, or email info@genesisoffroad.com
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Got mine in yesterday. That is one tight fit! Love the concept and fit & finish of the product (now that it's in😄). Had to trim the web supports at the base of the fuse-box. It's gonna be nice having the constant and consistent power to the back of the 4Runner.
Mine is arriving today, and really excited to get it installed. Wired up a 100W solar panel to the roof rack with a charge controller under the hood to the car battery in preparation. Wire ran for always on power to the cab. Just about to unbolt everything for this install (very useful video, thanks!) so that the UPS driver can just drop everything under the hood for me! Will update after the install/use.
Awesome! Holler if you need any help!
Great product. Installed the 2 GEN Product in this video in my 2020 4Runner ORP. It is a tight fit but we got her in. My only concern is the wiring harness squished behind it next to the fender over time. Everything works as advertised. Have yet to install the G Screen. Ran out of steam.
That's a great looking system. What have been the long-term results as far as the mounts' and mounting area's integrity? Any cracks or failures? The reason I ask is because that area was designed to handle a limited amount of weight and stress. 4Runners do have the ability to mount a second battery at the front on the passenger side. It would be nice to have that option with your kit as that is a tremendous amount of weight in one spot without reinforcing the attachment points. Also, with the fuse box, you might consider adding a support shim to the one attachment point left hanging to minimize vibration and stress to the other two plastic brackets.
Heard from others they did experience cracking from the mounting area, causing the jettison of a battery so I’d definitely recommend distributing the weight since it is thin sheet metal holding the weight of two batteries
I just finished the East Mojave Heritage Trail in CA. The mounting area cracked and failed halfway through the trip. Had to ratchet strap the batteries and mount to the frame to make it home. Removed the Genesis system today. Going back to stock with a second battery on the passenger side firewall. The thin sheet metal on the 4Runner battery mount platform in that area is not sufficient to handle the extra weight of a dual battery system with the stress of off-roading. Adding a strengthening plate to the mounting area is not an option. Not enough clearance. As is, the dual battery system was all ready rubbing the under side of the hood.
Can you run optima yellow top 35s with this
No, the Group 35 has the posts reversed, which means your factory positive and negative clamps would not connect to the correct post without cutting the factory wires. The Group 25 size has the posts in the correct orientation so the factory wires line up perfectly.
Do you have Gen 3 for the Tundra
Yes we do. Here's the link to the Gen 3 Tundra kit. We haven't had a chance to do a new install video for the Tundra yet, but the installation process is almost identical to the 4Runner. www.genesisoffroad.com/gen3-tundra-dual-battery-kit
Why are you providing SAE hardware, instead of metric hardware? The whole truck is metric (as are basically every other car and truck made today).
I think the only standard hardware used is for the rivet nuts. Couple reasons for that. First, we were already stocking that particular size of rivet nut from another application, so it was easy to reuse that hardware rather than stock another size. Second, at the time, one of the popular rivet nut installation tools on the market came with a die for installing 1/4-20 threaded rivet nuts, and also that thread size is popular with several other aftermarket parts such as rear corner guards, fenders, and rocker armor panels, so the thought process was to avoid needing to buy another die size for the tool and stick with the most popular size. It's just 4 rivet nuts and 4 bolts, so certainly if someone really wanted to keep everything metric it would be easy to grab that from the local hardware store. Hope that helps!
Thank you for making the video, it’s clearly not well designed to take into consideration the stress being put on the fender with the weight of a second battery. If it’s been cad designed, there should be no need to drill new holes or bend and tweak the cooling lines existing mount points as it would be able to use the stock mounting points and account for the space available. This will likely void any warranty you might have… 😢
There are no good factory mounting points for us to tie into like we have on the Jeeps. Trust me, we're not using the nutserts just for fun. Also, the factory hoses are in the way regardless of how the tray is designed so I'm not really understanding what you mean about that. In over 11 years of manufacturing dual battery systems, we have never had one single customer report to us that that had any sort of warranty voided whatsoever. Our kits do not change anything about the factory electrical system. We are simply adding a second battery and our system controls connecting and disconnecting it to protect the cranking battery from getting drained by your aftermarket accessories.
Bad design when it becomes necessary to replace headlight bulb.
It only takes a few minutes to pull the battery out to access the headlights. You'll change the battery far more often than the headlight bulb over the lifespan of the vehicle.
That looks 10x more complicated than running wires to the other side.
Naa, it's actually very simple, especially since we do all the wiring for you.
No it doesn’t
We'll just leave one of the fuse box mount points hanging out here not fastened, and we'll start bending things out of the way.... nothing to see here. @@GenesisOffroad
@@WFO211 Yep. Can’t put a bolt in that last one because it will bump the bottom of the tray. Can’t raise the tray up because it will hit the hood. It ain’t going anywhere.