Hello, thanks a ton for doing this video. I am running a dana 60 in my pro street 69 camaro. I rebuilt that rear end, and I did damn near the same way you did yours. Great work.
i have a 2009 ram 2500 HD has the AAM axles the axle shafts and ujoints on the front are much larger than my 1994 ram 2500 both axles are same 44 front 60 rear was planning on building a offroad recovery vehicle wanted to use the 2009 chassis because much stronger frame and diff look heaver duty but will be using older cab planning on a 1950 dodge cab and flatbed
I noticed you didn’t mention the oil baffle on the pinion, I’m assuming that is part of the pinion depth measurement? Also, how would you go about removing the race to add or remove shims, without destroying the baffle as it is in front of the shims.
Yes it is. Sorry, I didn’t focus a bunch on the baffle, some differentials don’t have them and some do. Unfortunately I usually damage them when I remove the inner race and replace them with new ones on final assembly. Measure and use shims to substitute in place of the baffle until finally assembly then swap the shims out for the baffle.
Was wanting your input I'm still working on the 67 m715 I have a T98 trans but it has the divorce transfer Case and the T18 has the transfer Case attached but it didn't have the Bell housing and it has the long pilot shaft which is the best way to go changing out the pilot shaft for a short one or go with the spacer the engine and Bell housing I have is a ford inline 300 6 also would you have or could you let me know what the transmission are worth the T18 has the 1.632 1st gear thank you and congrats on 1000
I would definitely go with the married transfer case and T-18, they will handle higher speeds without overheating and vibrating. As far as the pilot shaft, my first choice would be the one that lines up best with the tunnel for the shifter, if that won’t make a difference, I would be more likely to go with the easy button which would probably be the spacer. The other consideration for me is parts availability, off the shelf, incase you need to do repairs in the future. Since you are going with a Ford 300 engine, you should be able to buy direct bolt in factory parts for this transmission, the T-18 came in a bunch of Ford trucks.
Great video! Newbie here, if I’m replacing the carrier bearings but reusing original gears, could you use original preload and lash shims? Or would I need to reshim and check everything
I wouldn’t change any shims, reinstall everything the same, new bearings shouldn’t change the preload or backlash if it was set up correctly originally. You don’t want to adjust it due to a wear pattern. I would check the backlash and preload just to be sure and definitely don’t change the depth shims on used gears, that will not change. Don’t try to do a contact pattern either, it won’t read right on used gears.
So you're saying check my pattern and if the pinion needs shimming take out the carrier and re shim the pinion? Yeah big pass, you should be able to set your pinion correctly without installing the carrier
You can do them mathematically but if the pattern is off, yes, you have to remove the carrier and adjust the shims on the pinion, except for third member type differentials, like 14 bolt and 9”, those you just remove the pinion support.
Hello, thanks a ton for doing this video. I am running a dana 60 in my pro street 69 camaro. I rebuilt that rear end, and I did damn near the same way you did yours. Great work.
Great video. This has helped me a lot in rebuilding my first D60 axel.
I like it as usual! Very thorough. 😁
You’ll like the next one, 14bolt with a twist.
i have a 2009 ram 2500 HD has the AAM axles the axle shafts and ujoints on the front are much larger than my 1994 ram 2500 both axles are same 44 front 60 rear was planning on building a offroad recovery vehicle wanted to use the 2009 chassis because much stronger frame and diff look heaver duty but will be using older cab planning on a 1950 dodge cab and flatbed
That will be cool!
I noticed you didn’t mention the oil baffle on the pinion, I’m assuming that is part of the pinion depth measurement? Also, how would you go about removing the race to add or remove shims, without destroying the baffle as it is in front of the shims.
Yes it is. Sorry, I didn’t focus a bunch on the baffle, some differentials don’t have them and some do. Unfortunately I usually damage them when I remove the inner race and replace them with new ones on final assembly. Measure and use shims to substitute in place of the baffle until finally assembly then swap the shims out for the baffle.
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Where do you buy your parts from?
I purchased a bunch of parts from East Coast gear supply and quick performance as well.
@@murphysgarage Thanks for your response
Was wanting your input I'm still working on the 67 m715 I have a T98 trans but it has the divorce transfer Case and the T18 has the transfer Case attached but it didn't have the Bell housing and it has the long pilot shaft which is the best way to go changing out the pilot shaft for a short one or go with the spacer the engine and Bell housing I have is a ford inline 300 6 also would you have or could you let me know what the transmission are worth the T18 has the 1.632 1st gear thank you and congrats on 1000
I would definitely go with the married transfer case and T-18, they will handle higher speeds without overheating and vibrating. As far as the pilot shaft, my first choice would be the one that lines up best with the tunnel for the shifter, if that won’t make a difference, I would be more likely to go with the easy button which would probably be the spacer. The other consideration for me is parts availability, off the shelf, incase you need to do repairs in the future. Since you are going with a Ford 300 engine, you should be able to buy direct bolt in factory parts for this transmission, the T-18 came in a bunch of Ford trucks.
Great video! Newbie here, if I’m replacing the carrier bearings but reusing original gears, could you use original preload and lash shims? Or would I need to reshim and check everything
I wouldn’t change any shims, reinstall everything the same, new bearings shouldn’t change the preload or backlash if it was set up correctly originally. You don’t want to adjust it due to a wear pattern. I would check the backlash and preload just to be sure and definitely don’t change the depth shims on used gears, that will not change. Don’t try to do a contact pattern either, it won’t read right on used gears.
When you say preload, are you referring to the carrier bearings or pinion preload? Sorry for the dumb questions
Both, first make sure the pinion is good and then the carrier. Just doing bearings though, you shouldn’t have to change anything.
@@murphysgarage Thankyou!
So you're saying check my pattern and if the pinion needs shimming take out the carrier and re shim the pinion?
Yeah big pass, you should be able to set your pinion correctly without installing the carrier
You can do them mathematically but if the pattern is off, yes, you have to remove the carrier and adjust the shims on the pinion, except for third member type differentials, like 14 bolt and 9”, those you just remove the pinion support.