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Murphy's Garage
Registrace 20. 05. 2022
Jeep resto-modish, rebuilding full size Jeeps, and other stuff automotive and off-road related. Plus: fuel injection, disc brakes, differential gear change and lockers, steering modifications, hydraulic assist steering, budget Jeep and off-road builds. My favorite, wiring…Subscribe so you don't miss the next video!
Buggy LS plumbing fuel and cooling system with a tad of electrical. Wheeling Pritchett
#boschfuelpump #pritchettcanyon #trailmater
zhlédnutí: 77
Video
There is a lot of LS prep before plumbing and wiring. Some more Sand Hollow!
zhlédnutí 149Před 14 dny
#ictbilletbrackets #lsconversions #jimmysrw1
Project tube chassis: upper link mount overkill mode. Sand hollow wheeling.
zhlédnutí 348Před měsícem
#ruffstuff #millerwelder #murphysgarage
When your driveshaft doesn't play nice with your Dana 60.
zhlédnutí 114Před měsícem
#quickperformance #differentialgearreplacement #dana60
Fix a 14 bolt govlock with a welder
zhlédnutí 281Před měsícem
#millerwelder #fullsizechevytruck #hardnox
Wheeling season is here, a taste of Sand Hollow
zhlédnutí 132Před 3 měsíci
#sandhollowjeeping #sandhollowwheeling #murphysgarage
The best Hydro-boost brakes on the Cherokee
zhlédnutí 132Před 3 měsíci
#hydroboostbrakes #chetokeechiefpowerbrakes #fullsizejeepbrakes
Get the retro-fit A/C going on the M715.
zhlédnutí 494Před 4 měsíci
#southernrods #hotrodairconditioning #privatelabelmanufacturing
14 bolt differential regear, crush sleeve eliminator and a twist.
zhlédnutí 428Před 5 měsíci
#yukongear #craneaxle #14boltdifferential
Dana differential re-gear. Dana 60, and most any Dana’s
zhlédnutí 2KPřed 6 měsíci
Dana differential re-gear. Dana 60, and most any Dana’s
M715 time crunch. Mounting bead locks, building skid plates.
zhlédnutí 1KPřed 6 měsíci
M715 time crunch. Mounting bead locks, building skid plates.
Coil over shock basics, well my version.
zhlédnutí 423Před 7 měsíci
Coil over shock basics, well my version.
NP241C / NP231 transferase assembly/rebuild
zhlédnutí 2,1KPřed 7 měsíci
NP241C / NP231 transferase assembly/rebuild
M715-roll bar, roll cage, 21 road night run
zhlédnutí 249Před 8 měsíci
M715-roll bar, roll cage, 21 road night run
Driveshafts, stripped bolt, and The Great American Crawl, Montrose Co.
zhlédnutí 207Před 8 měsíci
Driveshafts, stripped bolt, and The Great American Crawl, Montrose Co.
Heavy duty crossover steering with hydraulic assist.
zhlédnutí 401Před 9 měsíci
Heavy duty crossover steering with hydraulic assist.
It’s only an army truck but the little things matter. YJ fun run.
zhlédnutí 808Před 9 měsíci
It’s only an army truck but the little things matter. YJ fun run.
GM 10 bolt Posi upgrade (works on 12 bolt too), tighten up a limited slip.
zhlédnutí 768Před 10 měsíci
GM 10 bolt Posi upgrade (works on 12 bolt too), tighten up a limited slip.
715-Bad a** cooling for the 8.1 and a little RockJunction homemade off-road obstacle course.
zhlédnutí 407Před 10 měsíci
715-Bad a cooling for the 8.1 and a little RockJunction homemade off-road obstacle course.
M715 8.1 Fuel system with brain damage wire problem. Full size on 21 RD.
zhlédnutí 248Před 11 měsíci
M715 8.1 Fuel system with brain damage wire problem. Full size on 21 RD.
M715: Wiring? Dash? Pinch Point is not a Jeep trail
zhlédnutí 514Před 11 měsíci
M715: Wiring? Dash? Pinch Point is not a Jeep trail
Vice Grip Garage patina preserver, round 3 FC cooling fan.
zhlédnutí 639Před rokem
Vice Grip Garage patina preserver, round 3 FC cooling fan.
Atlas is in, rear end is in, the 715 stands on it’s own!
zhlédnutí 478Před rokem
Atlas is in, rear end is in, the 715 stands on it’s own!
Ford Dana 60 high steer knuckle and ball joints, outer axle upgrade and Rock Junction wheeling day1.
zhlédnutí 1,4KPřed rokem
Ford Dana 60 high steer knuckle and ball joints, outer axle upgrade and Rock Junction wheeling day1.
Thanks for the video. Great stuff. Is it typical for the last retainer clip on the output shaft to have a bit more play in it? I noticed you took a couple extra looks at yours and mine fits a bit looser than the way the other clips on the unit fit up. It shift far enough that it will expose the inside edge of the clip that would normally sit flush against the shaft.
@@cyarn I know if there is to much slop you can have issues with wear and can cause early failure, I seem to see it in the low range shift collar. I look at the snap rings on the main shafts real close ever since I discovered there are some thicker snap rings which won’t fully seat and then come off when shifting in and out of gear. When this happens, it won’t go in 4wd and will eventually cause a real problem.
Excellent job as usual........😁
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Where do you buy your parts from?
I purchased a bunch of parts from East Coast gear supply and quick performance as well.
@@murphysgarage Thanks for your response
80mph in that 6,000 pound truck! I hope you’re putting air brakes on it otherwise you’ll be driving a greasy pole to hell.
One ton 4 wheel disc under a big bore hydro-boost stops on a dime.
Nice video. Great looking welds! Camron is my bro. Funny to see him wheeling on CZcams again 👍
glad you're getting on that Buggy, nice job as always Dane!
I noticed you didn’t mention the oil baffle on the pinion, I’m assuming that is part of the pinion depth measurement? Also, how would you go about removing the race to add or remove shims, without destroying the baffle as it is in front of the shims.
Yes it is. Sorry, I didn’t focus a bunch on the baffle, some differentials don’t have them and some do. Unfortunately I usually damage them when I remove the inner race and replace them with new ones on final assembly. Measure and use shims to substitute in place of the baffle until finally assembly then swap the shims out for the baffle.
Great video! Newbie here, if I’m replacing the carrier bearings but reusing original gears, could you use original preload and lash shims? Or would I need to reshim and check everything
I wouldn’t change any shims, reinstall everything the same, new bearings shouldn’t change the preload or backlash if it was set up correctly originally. You don’t want to adjust it due to a wear pattern. I would check the backlash and preload just to be sure and definitely don’t change the depth shims on used gears, that will not change. Don’t try to do a contact pattern either, it won’t read right on used gears.
When you say preload, are you referring to the carrier bearings or pinion preload? Sorry for the dumb questions
Both, first make sure the pinion is good and then the carrier. Just doing bearings though, you shouldn’t have to change anything.
@@murphysgarage Thankyou!
do you know anything about AAM axles. bought a 2009 ram 2500 HD. the front axle haven't measured them they look to be 1" bigger than my other truck and this axle is a high pinion also
I haven’t done much with the Dodge front AAM, it is basically a Dodge 9.25 converted to a steer axle. They do compete with the Dana 60 ball joint axle but there is not near the parts and upgrade availability as a 60. The unit bearings can be upgrades with a hub kit from Dynatrac along with ball joints. I have met a couple guys that did a complete chassis change on an army truck with 40’s and it is holding up ok.
Very nice job, it gives me some great ideas for a new winch bumper for my 715
It's nice to see some of these young folks getting into the sport.
I wish more kids had an interest in wrenching.
This is great Dane, nice to see the buggies on Hardnox too!
So you're saying check my pattern and if the pinion needs shimming take out the carrier and re shim the pinion? Yeah big pass, you should be able to set your pinion correctly without installing the carrier
You can do them mathematically but if the pattern is off, yes, you have to remove the carrier and adjust the shims on the pinion, except for third member type differentials, like 14 bolt and 9”, those you just remove the pinion support.
Hello, thanks a ton for doing this video. I am running a dana 60 in my pro street 69 camaro. I rebuilt that rear end, and I did damn near the same way you did yours. Great work.
Thanks for sharing your adventures...
Great video as always!!!
Thanks again!
Good video as usual. 😁
beautiful truck, magnificent ‼️❗️🥂 🪖
I think it's time. The trails keep getting harder and I know you want to tackle them.......😃
Great video. This has helped me a lot in rebuilding my first D60 axel.
Nice buggies. Looks like a lot of fun.
Can you rebuild mine ? I need the exact same thing done to mine it’s a passenger side drop 1990 suburban 241c and the shops here local keep telling me it cannot be done. I can ship it to you.
Sorry, no, I don’t do much line repair these days. You can buy parts from Torque King or right off EBay and go through it.
There's a lot of advantages to "old school" , power steering. I like hydro -boost steering. Really good for big cams. 😁 I like the LS sticker, and that huge alternator to. That sticker drives LS haters crazy, LOL.
Yep!
Hydroboost from a 2002... 2500 chevy!
Good video as usual. 😷
Thanks, I ran into Art at EJS, he’s bringing you back a hat.
@@murphysgarage , thanks man. I thought you were still there when you uploaded this video with a laptop! Not very far to Moab though!
Great job thanks for sharing
I’ll have to send you a couple hats. Thanks.
@@murphysgarage i have really enjoyed your channel you keep it simple and to the point some of the channels think they are doing a movie production.
How can we contact you I have a question about my transfer case rebuild
Bowtied1@msn.com
I'm going to make a container out of a leaky Jerry can just like you did and buy a second gas can mount for it. That was a very creative idea you had there!
Thank you, it is handy storage.
Excellent work 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Thank you.
More cherokee vids please!
I’ve only seen a couple of these coe Jeeps. They’re really cool.
Great video. Where was that trail you guys were driving at the end?
You exceeded the 1,000 subs mark! Way to go. Good tips as usual......😁
Great video! Love the Wheeling part at the end! Thank you for sharing!
Be ready for the next video, you will be a famous hat model!
@@murphysgarage that's awesome!!! Thanks!
Was wanting your input I'm still working on the 67 m715 I have a T98 trans but it has the divorce transfer Case and the T18 has the transfer Case attached but it didn't have the Bell housing and it has the long pilot shaft which is the best way to go changing out the pilot shaft for a short one or go with the spacer the engine and Bell housing I have is a ford inline 300 6 also would you have or could you let me know what the transmission are worth the T18 has the 1.632 1st gear thank you and congrats on 1000
I would definitely go with the married transfer case and T-18, they will handle higher speeds without overheating and vibrating. As far as the pilot shaft, my first choice would be the one that lines up best with the tunnel for the shifter, if that won’t make a difference, I would be more likely to go with the easy button which would probably be the spacer. The other consideration for me is parts availability, off the shelf, incase you need to do repairs in the future. Since you are going with a Ford 300 engine, you should be able to buy direct bolt in factory parts for this transmission, the T-18 came in a bunch of Ford trucks.
Awesome! I’m glad I found your channel. Not a lot of content on the tube for fsj. I personally have a 63 j200 thriftside I’m going to restore . And a 65 wagoneer 327. I look forward to getting to know your channel.
Thanks. Message me if you need any information and there is also still pictures on my High Desert Services Facebook page.
Yes!!! Great job Dad! Keep it going!
Awesome, congrats! You earned it
Thank you!
Nice video man, i have a 76 j10 i got like 8 months ago spent about 4 months last summer/fall getting it repaired and running before winter, now that its warming up.. Im hoping if i refill the a/c on it will get it to work. The fan and blower works, but the compressor hasnt been on in about 20 years. My 90 Grand wagoneers came to life when i poped a can of r12 in it, but its got a buldging hose that i clamped down with butaline hose over top to try and help the buldge from getting worse. The a/c worked for about 4 years until the compressor blew up. I took the risk and replaced the compressor only. Thankfully my system has shut off valves to keep the system locked away when you replace the compressor itself. I know i ran a risk of metal being in the system and hurting the new compressor, and so forth but i got lucky and its been working fine since I didnt want to waste the r12 i had in there, hooked it all up and put another can of r12 in and its been fine for 4 more years, although this year i gatta put another can in to get it cold again. seems to need 1 every 4 years or so. Im not converting to 134A if i can just put a 30$ can in every few years
i think i mentioned to you am building a off road recovery vehicle i am using a 2009 ram 2500 HD chassis of course 4wd the cab i am not sure will either be like a older 1994 cab or a 1950 dodge not sure yet but will be building custom dash where do i start looking for underdash unit for cooling and heating will use the stock mopar condensor and compressor and high and low switches and orfice tube. the 2009 unit has a condensor with its own fan with schroud don't understand why off roaders don't use those units for off road.
I don’t know, I look for fit and function. I am sure heat is a big part for off-roading but how compact some systems fit is probably a large part as well.
Using those other quarter panels as the rear cab corner patch panels was ingenious!
Thanks, you have to think out of the box when working on stuff without parts availability. Just a side note, you can use Weber BBQ grill metal for the front lowers if you need them, I didn't on mine, I was able to fix the originals.
Weber BBQ?? 😮😮 Man, that is waaaaay outside the box. Hahahaa! Luckily, I've got a pair that are salvageable for my FC170 dump truck restomod. Not looking for show quality lines here either.
I really appreciate your attention to detail and thoughtful planning. Too many of these are built poorly because the owner either takes shortcuts or doesn't spend the money/time to do it right.
Thanks, as much as I try to pay attention to what I am doing, things still happen and it doesn’t alway work out like I want it. I guess that’s just part of the gig. Thanks for the compliment.
Next video I think you will have 1K subs! 😁. I never learned AC systems, so I learned a lot today , good stuff!!
Currently working on my 1960 FC170 resto/mod. I see your red 170 has a decent stance to it. Did you relocate the spring mounts. rearch your springs or use something else? If you did relocate your spring mounts would you mind posting a quick video of how you did it? Thanks!
I did not relocate the spring mounts on the frame, I did flip the rear shackle, replace the top two springs with longer springs so the geometry would be correct. I re-arched the top 3 springs in the rear. The fronts, I just changed the pack a little bit, added a leaf and moved the springs to the top of the axle instead of under the axle. I am running full width axles on the Jeep, the rear is a 95 F350 Sterling and the front is a 81 K20 Suburban.
Thank you. very informative and easy to follow
I keep the guards on my grinders and wire wheel. I also wear eye pro, hearing pro and a faceshield when grinding.
I'm doing a similar M715 build. Everything is coming off and new/newish stuff is going in. Thanks for sharing your work.
Excellent as usual! Remember those older GM 10 bolts? As soon as you removed the axles the carrier would just about fall out. They seemed to have no preload from the factory, LOL. Forty to go........😀
Love the video, one problem. I need to replace the bushing and seal on my 99 (classic) output tail housing. I pulled this up hoping you would replace the bushing and I could see what tools I’d need to knock out the old bushing and tap in the new one. Any chance you can tell me?
If you remove the tail housing, I use an aluminum bushing driver. I have a Bluepoint set but you can buy them from Harbor freight pretty cheap. In a pinch, I have used a socket the right size and have also used a punch. With the tail housing on the truck, I have used seal pullers for the seal and a hooked slide hammer to get the bushing out (not fun, better to remove the housing). The output seals and bushings are pretty easy, the captured roller bearings are the ones that suck to get out.
Excellent tutorial! Only 55 more subs and you will be at 1K! 😁