Q1: what grit sandpaper, Q2: why not just clean the rotors without removing? Still have good access. I did just that yesterday and no more noise. So it really depends on the level of contamination. Also, since you're removing the pads, you might as well install new ones. 👍
I use 220 or 400 nothin too corse… For the rotors sure clean while on the bike. I’m just showing best case scenario. New brake pads are $40 a pair on my bike. This is free.
a few tips since I have had many issues with contaminated brakes - lay the sanpaper flat and rub the pads on it to sand evenly, and you really need to sand the shit out of the rotor. things get burned on and form a decent layer of buildup, you will be able to tell when you get down to the actual rotor
If you are lazy just remove pads, sand on flat surface in figure 8 to keep flat. Get emory cloth/sand paper and spin the wheel holding pinching the rotor with the abrasive, much faster. Also if you remove rotor loc tite the screws when you put them back on
Good video, although it seems like more work than necessary to remove the rotors. If I need to sand the rotors, I usually fold a bit of sanding paper around it and work my way around, while whey are on the wheel, which is usually still attached to the bike. Another tip to get the pad cleaning more efficient: wet grinding. I usually use 400 grit paper, put it on a smooth surface, add a pool of water and then move the pad in that pool. The dirt will then be continously moved from the pad into the water. Even grease and oil, that is not water soluble, will float to the surface. No matter how dirty the pads are, it's just a matter of grinding enough and replacing the water. After this, you can clean them with brake cleaner or isopropyl alkohol, but beware if you have resin pads. Some break cleaners might dissolve the resin and actually cause squeaking. For resin, wet grinding might be the best and only thing to do, or possibly some IPA.
I am looking for a brake pads that works really well in the rain (looking for the stopping power as same as when in dry conditions ) and offer the best stoping power, what should I chose?
A lot of times contaminants are kind of soaked into the pads so there is nothing you can do. The only thing that works in some cases is burning them, you can accomplish this by going down a long steep hill or use a blowtorch(haven’t tried that one yet)
These will almost certainly become contaminated again. Best to just replace pads and rotors when they're like this. Especially if your paying a shop for their time.
I actually know someone who insists that you've gotta put WD-40 on brake discs to avoid rust. He then says that rim brakes are better because he can't even lock up his rear wheel with discs. Brain pain.
You'd think it have something to do with the WD..... Fuck, if you disks are not flipping you over if you're not careful (Assuming half decent disk breaks). Something is not 100%.
I actually got this issue on one of my bikes and doing all this didn't help at all. After sanding and cleaning, I still got a truck-like horn when I use my front break. Useful in some situations, not preferable most of the times, pedestrians just jump up when I use my brakes.
Yeah… in some cases the contaminants get too deep into the pads and they have to be thrown out… if it’s just surface contamination, then sanding that surface out works. Sorry🤷🏻♂️trying to help…
Dont use any 80# 120# sandpaper on the rotor or it will eat you pads.... use 1000# or really worn out coarser paper... i use 1000# and it works nice.. maybe 2000# would do it too... dont know
That is something bike shops like to say. They also sell pads... Instead of accepting a statement that someone stands to gain financially from repeating, just think about it for a second: The sound comes from dirt on the pad. Saying that you cannot clean a pad is ridiculous, because you can literally remove the dirty surface for a shiny new one, with the sanding technique shown here. You just go down to new material that has never been exposed to dirt, ie you basically get a new pad. You might of course prefer to just buy new instead of doing this routine, but please don't spread that you cannot clean brake pads. Someone might believe you and it will just hurt their wallet. Personally I switch the dirty to new ones if it's not enough to just clean them with break cleaner while they are on the bike. But I do not bin them. I save up for a few dirty pairs and then clean them all in one go at a time when it suits me. Break pads should be binned when they are worn down, not when they get a bit of mud and grime on them (ie every wet ride).
@@thomasaardahl1514 I consider oil to be just one sort of dirt or contamination. And you sure can clean oil, as described in the video, and as I mentioned in a separate post. At least on metallic pads. Perhaps that is where the conflict lies: metallic can be cleaned, whereas resin might need replacement it they're really bad. I would, however, try wet grinding resin pads too, and then clean with IPA. There's nothing to loose. I might add that I've successfully cleaned metallic pads that were soaked in brake oil, and I sure have improved the performance and reduced squeal also on resin pads. So I know that it works. If you've failed to clean pads before, you've only proved that you somehow failed. Not that the concept as such does not work. Better luck next time.
So wait minute, what you are saying is drinking A LOT of whiskey so I can pee all over my brakes then let them sit overnight isn't the proper way to fix brake squeal? As a bike mechanic I think I have been charging people for the wrong service.
I've done this 5 times now, Changed out the pads and still squeel, I definitely don't have leaking calipers. In over 30 years of riding I have never had squealing brakes, It has got to be the pads, I've been using Noah and Theo Pads, I'm going to go back to Shimano and see if this works.
Shimano pads sucks, they become iced when they are on my bike rack, i know that is unbelievable but that's true. Never both, always one at the time. never had any problem with another brand.
Probably… trials riders grind their rims to get a rougher surface for more braking power… and I’m sure cleaning your brake pads with isopropyl alcohol won’t hurt, just get whatever’s on there off.
@@TopToBottomMTB yup, you bet!! We do it at the shop all the time . You will see oils burn off and moist sweat out of the steel . More bite . Clean the surface after 👍
Buy headphones and play the background sounds of a better pov bike video. Boom Solved I know... Heh You should be so thankful of my existence. Yeah, i'm alone.
First of all. This was a ice tech disk Right? The make sound first time it rains. There are plaster fleece. And some disc the don't like brake cleaner. The are better for this ice tech Disc. Alcohol. I could send you pictures from a ice tech disk. After 1 years looks like trash. From sandpaper. Live with the sound. On stainless disk does not matter.
Find a hill and roll down it dragging the brakes at 75% force without coming to a complete stop… Do that about 5 times. You’ll find that the bite gets stronger every time. You do that with re-surfaced brakes or new brake pads.
did all this and still squeel, my bedding might be off, but two of my bolts are fucked from being shitty soft china metal and cant get them off again =(
Washed my brakes with an IPA. Now they just smell like beer
🤣 used a really hazy one did ya?
It's iso
piss water*
IPA doesn't smell like beer.. It's different from the alcohol that's in beer
Probably too young to drink…😉
These breaks sound like the crowd encouraging you 🤣
Bunch of 🎺!
After final sand and clean, I like to drip on a little more ipa and light em up.. I feel like it burns off the last remnants of oil and grime
Ooh! Everyone loves a little 🔥ball!
Yea me to
Yeah that's what I was gonna say, he forgot the blow torch!
I sprayed mine with WD- 40 and they are Good to go
I hope you are joking.
@@johnrus7661 he is
@@rachmatzulfiqar I heard of people doing stuff like this and being perfectly serious. Or worst.
Yep, i burst in to hysterics when my mate told me he did exactly that.
He went from squeaky brakes to no brakes 🤦🏻♂️😂
@@michaelbennett8509 hey, at least it's not squeaky anymore
Put the sandpaper on a flat surface grit side up. Then sand the pad in figure 8s. Otherwise as shown in the video you risk rounding off the pad.
Great tip thanks!👊🏻
Yep. But if you catch it early enough you don’t have to sand the rotor, just clean well. It’s usually the pads with the issues.
True! Regular maintenance and up keep goes a long way! Cheers!🍻
Instructions unclear, bike is now drunk from IPA
😂 guess you gotta do it more often. build up a little tolerance…😉
😅😅😅
You sound like “law by Mike” (no disrespect)
During a downhill competition, if your brakes are noisy, just put some grease on the rotors. That's the winning setup.
🤣 white knuckle racing!😳
even spitting on them works
Love that he took the whole wheel out when he has top load brakes
How else are you gonna get the rotor off🤔
Ahh, I heard that disc rub at the end! Lol
Yeah hadn’t adjusted the calliper or bed-in the pads yet… Man! The CZcams audience is soooooo detailed! Got pick up my game!!💪🏻
Q1: what grit sandpaper, Q2: why not just clean the rotors without removing? Still have good access. I did just that yesterday and no more noise. So it really depends on the level of contamination. Also, since you're removing the pads, you might as well install new ones. 👍
I use 220 or 400 nothin too corse… For the rotors sure clean while on the bike. I’m just showing best case scenario. New brake pads are $40 a pair on my bike. This is free.
a few tips since I have had many issues with contaminated brakes - lay the sanpaper flat and rub the pads on it to sand evenly, and you really need to sand the shit out of the rotor. things get burned on and form a decent layer of buildup, you will be able to tell when you get down to the actual rotor
Thanks for sharing Lincoln! Glad to have you in the audience!🤘🏻
Thanks for the tips!
🤘🏻
If you are lazy just remove pads, sand on flat surface in figure 8 to keep flat. Get emory cloth/sand paper and spin the wheel holding pinching the rotor with the abrasive, much faster. Also if you remove rotor loc tite the screws when you put them back on
that works ! i done that to my bike brakes
Never heard iso be called “ipa” before lmaoo but great vid for those who still got green behind their ears!
Good video, although it seems like more work than necessary to remove the rotors. If I need to sand the rotors, I usually fold a bit of sanding paper around it and work my way around, while whey are on the wheel, which is usually still attached to the bike.
Another tip to get the pad cleaning more efficient: wet grinding. I usually use 400 grit paper, put it on a smooth surface, add a pool of water and then move the pad in that pool. The dirt will then be continously moved from the pad into the water. Even grease and oil, that is not water soluble, will float to the surface. No matter how dirty the pads are, it's just a matter of grinding enough and replacing the water.
After this, you can clean them with brake cleaner or isopropyl alkohol, but beware if you have resin pads. Some break cleaners might dissolve the resin and actually cause squeaking. For resin, wet grinding might be the best and only thing to do, or possibly some IPA.
Great tips! Love it! Thanks brother!
Totally agree because regular refitting of the disk bolt will wear the threaded bosses in the hub, once one of those strips you need a new hub.
I am looking for a brake pads that works really well in the rain (looking for the stopping power as same as when in dry conditions ) and offer the best stoping power, what should I chose?
Use a flat surface made of concrete for the rotors! The more scratched the rotors are the better they work and dissipate heat
What did you put in where the disk goes
My question though, what grit of sandpaper should you use for sanding up the rotors and pads?
A lot of times contaminants are kind of soaked into the pads so there is nothing you can do. The only thing that works in some cases is burning them, you can accomplish this by going down a long steep hill or use a blowtorch(haven’t tried that one yet)
Me neither… maybe try it with some pads I’m about to throw out…😬
no need to remove you rotor from the wheel just cleane it with alcohol
When your brakes sound like a kazoo at a kids party, it's going to be a fun time.
🤣
Bruh that was a goose
You forget to say that you have a METALLIC brakepad....😂😂😂😂
Yes!!! Definitely the only way to go!!
Love the meta. And the tips
Music to my ears!!!🤘🏻
What grit sandpaper was used?
Service hand wash paste works the best 😉
Depending on how contaminated the pads are, sometimes this works.👍🏻
You forgot the silicone grease on your pads🤯
does rubbing alcohol work as well?
What number of grit sandpaper you use
In the case of duct tape or WD40, what is needed here?
I use washing up liquid and rub the pads together until clean. Simple
Hahaha my brakes sounds like a dying banshee with diarrhea. Probably gonna do this over the weekend.
These will almost certainly become contaminated again. Best to just replace pads and rotors when they're like this. Especially if your paying a shop for their time.
you definitely need more oil if they squeak 🤣
💦💦💦🤪
I actually know someone who insists that you've gotta put WD-40 on brake discs to avoid rust. He then says that rim brakes are better because he can't even lock up his rear wheel with discs. Brain pain.
@@Snaily 😅🤣🤣
@@Snaily holy, who comes up with stuff like that
You'd think it have something to do with the WD.....
Fuck, if you disks are not flipping you over if you're not careful (Assuming half decent disk breaks). Something is not 100%.
I actually got this issue on one of my bikes and doing all this didn't help at all. After sanding and cleaning, I still got a truck-like horn when I use my front break. Useful in some situations, not preferable most of the times, pedestrians just jump up when I use my brakes.
Yeah… in some cases the contaminants get too deep into the pads and they have to be thrown out… if it’s just surface contamination, then sanding that surface out works. Sorry🤷🏻♂️trying to help…
I did the same steps and still get the sound . What should i do ?
This guy is amazing
Dont use any 80# 120# sandpaper on the rotor or it will eat you pads.... use 1000# or really worn out coarser paper... i use 1000# and it works nice.. maybe 2000# would do it too... dont know
After scuffing the rotor I spray cleaner on it and wipe then spray again and put a lighter to it this burns all the impurities (shop trick)
Nice thx! I’ll try that!
All the cleaning is fine. But contaminated brakepads are dead. Install new ones.
That is something bike shops like to say. They also sell pads...
Instead of accepting a statement that someone stands to gain financially from repeating, just think about it for a second: The sound comes from dirt on the pad. Saying that you cannot clean a pad is ridiculous, because you can literally remove the dirty surface for a shiny new one, with the sanding technique shown here. You just go down to new material that has never been exposed to dirt, ie you basically get a new pad.
You might of course prefer to just buy new instead of doing this routine, but please don't spread that you cannot clean brake pads. Someone might believe you and it will just hurt their wallet.
Personally I switch the dirty to new ones if it's not enough to just clean them with break cleaner while they are on the bike. But I do not bin them. I save up for a few dirty pairs and then clean them all in one go at a time when it suits me. Break pads should be binned when they are worn down, not when they get a bit of mud and grime on them (ie every wet ride).
Well said brother!💪🏻
@@thomasaardahl1514 I consider oil to be just one sort of dirt or contamination. And you sure can clean oil, as described in the video, and as I mentioned in a separate post. At least on metallic pads. Perhaps that is where the conflict lies: metallic can be cleaned, whereas resin might need replacement it they're really bad. I would, however, try wet grinding resin pads too, and then clean with IPA. There's nothing to loose. I might add that I've successfully cleaned metallic pads that were soaked in brake oil, and I sure have improved the performance and reduced squeal also on resin pads. So I know that it works. If you've failed to clean pads before, you've only proved that you somehow failed. Not that the concept as such does not work. Better luck next time.
@@widkin yeah. And you certainly one of the specialists that are boiling Dot Brakefluid to get rid of the water.🙈🤣
If you have oil contamination you can use heat to vapourise it and get rid
Could you give a link to a cheap but good brand of break cleaner?
Brake cleaner is usually just heptane.
He uses ipa (isopropyl alcohol) here.
@@emilen2 IPA is your friend when it comes to brake parts.👍🏻
I use squeak as signal for people in front of me while riding in the city
🤣 Squeak! To your left!!
Thank bro my disc brakes are now not making sounds.
Nice.. Thanks 👍👍
No probs! Thx for the support!🤘🏻
This will also add a bunch of wear to the pads and rotors, so don't use this before every ride... Or race unless you're in a sponsored team
Yeah… I don’t do it all the time just if your pads get contaminated and they still have a lot of meat on them…
Well also you do have metallic pads they make noise
And after this burn at least the rotor!! And done!! You can also do the same to the brake pads
I’ll try that in the next video! Thanks!
Don’t think you need to sand down the metal rotor they are not porous and will not absorb oil light brake pads
Rich people: just buy a new one.
Facts.
they will still get same since if it rains water gets in there
What grit sand paper did you use?
120 to 220 nothing too corse.
What is grade of the sandpaper?
I use anywhere between 200-400 grit.
You first have to use alcohol cause youre sanding in the grease on the disk and pads so you can never clean them fully
This is the first step. 🤫
Ooh good one… thanks!
Ayyooo dude is using kittens for breaking 😳
🤣
So wait minute, what you are saying is drinking A LOT of whiskey so I can pee all over my brakes then let them sit overnight isn't the proper way to fix brake squeal? As a bike mechanic I think I have been charging people for the wrong service.
🤣 that’s one way to do it…
I've done this 5 times now, Changed out the pads and still squeel, I definitely don't have leaking calipers. In over 30 years of riding I have never had squealing brakes, It has got to be the pads, I've been using Noah and Theo Pads, I'm going to go back to Shimano and see if this works.
Shimano pads sucks, they become iced when they are on my bike rack, i know that is unbelievable but that's true. Never both, always one at the time.
never had any problem with another brand.
@@radassforza3320 what would you recommend?
@@stuarts4673
Can't tell, i don't live in uk
@@radassforza3320 I meant what brand of pads do you recommend?
He has no idea. Just a Shimano Hater.😂
Just throw some wd40 on your pads and call it good
nice joke
AHHHH MY BRAKES THEY DON'T WORK WHAT HAVE YOU DONE
@@MrJetFormation no shit
wd40 is a lubricant, not a brake cleaner
My father did this. It didn’t work.
@@runarvalheimvrnes8513 Rest in Pepperonis papa
The rust seeing this video:
😈
Remove your brakes
Done
😬
They won't squeak anymore that's for sure
@@mynamesnotimportant6941 what won’t squeak anymore??🤷🏻♂️🤣
@@TopToBottomMTB your brakes. Your brakes can't squeak if they don't exist right? :P
Does this still work on rim brakes
Probably… trials riders grind their rims to get a rougher surface for more braking power… and I’m sure cleaning your brake pads with isopropyl alcohol won’t hurt, just get whatever’s on there off.
I just sand my pads, clean the caliper and rotor with dish washing liquid. It works fine. LOL!
Thx for the tip!!
DO NOT SAND YOUR ROTORS
I just want my damn breaks to work!!
Use a fine grit sandpaper
Yeah I used 220… you can also use up to 400.
Wait what grit sanding paper did you use!!??
I usually use anything between 200-400 grit… nothing too rough. You just want to scuff both surfaces and re-mary them by bedding them in again.👍🏻
Bicycles have become cars
Huh?
🤣
I ll take some brakes that bad so i can imagine i m competering on redbull and ppl is encouraging me 😆😆😆😆
It just made my brakes even worse
My front brakes broke and now I'm sad
Or, OR, just spray the rotor and pads/caliper with brake clean. Done
You forgot to torch them with a small Butane torch to burn out any oils
Never done that before… does it work well?
@@TopToBottomMTB yup, you bet!! We do it at the shop all the time . You will see oils burn off and moist sweat out of the steel . More bite . Clean the surface after 👍
@@benster8594 sick I’ll give it a try thanks!!
Also this will make them wear out faster
Tiny bit…
Bro can i sand Shimano rt56 rotor
Brakes? I'll be happy if I can stop the wheel wobbling on the axle 🤦♂️
Then do I have a video for you!! czcams.com/users/shortsURAVtUbI2d0?feature=share
🤪
@@TopToBottomMTB exactly!, It really makes the no-hands- stood-up a bit of a challenge 😳
I thought it was just my bike,
@@paulschmidtke425 😖
,u forget to mention what grade of sandpaper
I use anywhere between 200-400 grit sandpaper.
Aaah this is the worst! You're literally letting the whole trail know you're braking
what corn is the sandpaperM
I use 220
After this process do u
Have to bed in the brakes again?
Yes
If you ever clean your rotors with ipa u will need to bed them in again
Maybe watch the Video First
Buy headphones and play the background sounds of a better pov bike video.
Boom
Solved
I know...
Heh
You should be so thankful of my existence.
Yeah, i'm alone.
Pads doesnt can be cleaned must be replaced
Never sand brake rotors it adds points of failure and if your rotors break mid ride you are screwed
I cannot imagine that tiny bit of scuffing he did would cause them to break
@@mynamesnotimportant6941 as long as you’re in the minimum 1.5mm thickness threshold, you’re good to go!!
First of all. This was a ice tech disk Right? The make sound first time it rains. There are plaster fleece. And some disc the don't like brake cleaner. The are better for this ice tech Disc. Alcohol. I could send you pictures from a ice tech disk. After 1 years looks like trash. From sandpaper. Live with the sound. On stainless disk does not matter.
How do you bed in the brakes?
Find a hill and roll down it dragging the brakes at 75% force without coming to a complete stop… Do that about 5 times. You’ll find that the bite gets stronger every time. You do that with re-surfaced brakes or new brake pads.
@@TopToBottomMTB outstanding! I'll try tomorrow.
@@rubenvor 👍🏻
Everyone knows the easiest way is to add some chain lube
I like to soak my brake pads in chain lube and grease my rotors to keep my brakes silent.
Extra slippery😉😂
No my brakes are Sram Code 🤣🤣🤣
Just buy *Galfer* brake Stuff
Just use watery mud from a puddle
🫡
Use brake cleaner, it will work a million times better.
Yes I know he said you can use it but he showed ipa.
Thanks Ezra!
spray some wd40 on them and no more sound
Sound gone and so is your braking power!🤣
What brakes? 😂
Or here’s an idea. Replace your brake pads like a normal human being
At 40-50$ a pair… I’ll do this if I need to… 👍🏻
Can someone tell me if this really works I need to get my brakes working
Put wd40 on them it works better
did all this and still squeel, my bedding might be off, but two of my bolts are fucked from being shitty soft china metal and cant get them off again =(
How do you bed in brakes?
Video incoming… subscribe and stay tuned.🤘🏻
You sleep on the floor and put the pads to bed for 2 weeks
My brakes sound like a train 5x louder on full decent just add a train horn and I could sound like one
🤣