Will it Run? || Briggs and Stratton Model 5S
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- čas přidán 7. 07. 2019
- I recently bought some Briggs 5S engines in a 2 for $50 deal. Today we take a look at the better of the two and see if we can get it running.
SPOILER: it aint hard!
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filmed on the Panasonic LUMIX FZ1000 - Věda a technologie
Very skilled guy that looks nice
I have one of these engines but I need a carb for it. I have looked everywhere, even Ebay and cannot find one!
Oh, one thing I wanted to point out. NOTE: the thread on the crankshaft end holding the flywheel on is normally a LEFT hand thread on engines this old. So you have to turn the wrench the opposite way to normal to remove the nut! I wasn't paying 100% attention one time and broke the end off the crankshaft because of that minor detail! If you look at the end of the thread, you can see how it looks kind of strange being a Lefty!
yeah I found this out right before picking this one up. XD
I have one that looks very similar to yours except for the following:
1) Mine has a slot cut out of the top of the blower housing and there is a little 90* duct that diverts this air over the had fins. It is held on 2 w/screws onto bosses on the head - it does not use head bolts for attachment. The 5s parts manual does not show this part and no boses are shown on the head. My part also has the spark plug shorting tab. The 5s manual shows a simple tab held on with a single screw. (I guess mine is not a 5s.)
2) Your blower housing has 2 holes on the face above the rope pull - mine does not.
3) Mine does not have a wraparound cylidrical fin shroud as shown in the manual.
I suspect mine is a lesser HP or older model???
Mine came off a reel lawn mower that was use before 1958 (that's when I remember it as a child.) I seem to recall it was 2.5 HP. The lawn mower had a pale green deck and the wheel drive was cotrolled by a bell crank upon which an intermediate shaft was pivoted by a hand control to engate the belt coming off the engine. The other end of the shaft had a sprocket chain drive to the wheel/axle. The hubs had a ratchet mechanism to allow free wheeling around quarters that consisted of transverse sliding pins in a hub of about 1.5" diameter - I remember these hubs were problematic and had to be replaced a few times. I believe I was 6-8 years old which corresponds to 1956-58.
WHERE did you find the Model Number etc? I can't find mine but there is a lot of rust on the blower housing. Stamped in the base maybe?
it would be on the back of the engine by the blower fins. its a plaque riveted onto the cooling shroud thing. my guess is that its a type of model N or 6S. but when you find the numbers (if the tag hasn't been removed) it'll state the model flat out. its all the way on the top left of the plate. best of luck! thanks for watching!
@@WildfoxFabrication It appears I'm missing the fin plate that typically has the numbers on it. It is possible the plate is laying around somewhere. The 6s has that "head cover" w/plug arm that is held on with 2 bolts. The parts manual also shows a simple plug arm - it appears engines came both ways. I am a little confused since the 6S is a 1.5 HP engine which I question if that would have been big enough for a reel mower.
@@NoferTrunions tons of reel mowers, such as the Eclipse brand, came with 5S engines. That’s actually what my 5S is from, an Eclipse reel mower. It’s probably a 6s, measure the bore and stroke. 5S is a 2” bore and 1.5” stroke, and 6s is 2” bore and stroke. There’s other engines that have those same measurements however the model N uses a small updraft carb and the 5s and 6s use the flat gas tank carbs.
@@WildfoxFabrication I measured the stroke - it is 2" so it is a 6S. The cylinder shield where the model and SN are located fell off - the head bolt tab broke off. Got it started runs good. The Coil wire insulation was broken and touching the top of the cylinder head as it makes it turn to the plug - it was shorting out there. Moved it away and engine runs good.
I would really like to build a vintage mini bike with this motor. IF ANYONE HAS A 1/2” BORE CLUTCH LET ME KNOW. thanks! 😊
They are out there, but they are difficult to find. There are some 5s’ on eBay that have them on them, but you would have to buy the entire engine to get it. But you might be able to ask them for just the clutch.
I have one, but I’m looking to do the same thing you want to do with a 5s.
If you want, I can let you know how mine does on a go kart when I do mine so that you know if a 5s even has enough snot to pull a go kart or mini bike.
@@elichristensen8066 im fairly sure a 5S at only 1 horsepower wont do too well on either a go kart or a minibike, but it would be cool just to HAVE a 5S minibike lol
@@WildfoxFabrication lol, indeed, that is why I’m doing it. I haven’t seen one on a go kart or mini bike anywhere so that’s why I’m gonna do it to see what it can do, even if it won’t go very fast.
Get a sleeve adapter from 1/2 shaft to 3/4 shaft donyboy has a video on it
@@connorssmallengines6663 I would have to make a custom shaft adapter because the smallest one I have been able to find is 5/8. luckily my school has a CNC machine I have access to so if I can get a chunk of steel I can make my own adapter
0:58 credit HowToBriggs
who is that?
@@WildfoxFabrication its the briggs and stratton version of howtobasic
@@tvsnake7841 right before you posted that comment i finally got it 😂
Man that was an easy engine to get running!!! The first Briggs I got going back many years ago was also a 5S. It gave me much more trouble, as the gas tank was full of 10 year vintage Grungoline that was gummy. I had to pick it out of the tank in chunks! The gas straw to the carb was plugged, so I had to hack saw off the little mesh strainer at the bottom. I did get it and a twin running though, and I used to play around running it after school. Sadly I parted with it about 20 years ago when I moved, I donated it to a small engine repair shop, so hopefully it is still out there in 1 piece somewhere, and not melted down into a KIA or something! Oh, one note, be very careful your clamps don't loosen up from the vibration, or Briggsey could end up on the floor! :(
XD yeah, no briggseys were harmed in the making of this video.
Your lucky you didn't lose your finger.
What weight of oil did you use?
i use 10w-30 in almost everything.
@@WildfoxFabrication No offence, but this is not the best choice. I´d use either SAE 30 or SAE 20W-50 on these old engines. If they´re built after 1989 15W40 works as well. With a 10W they use too much oil. Modern motors are of course an eception if it says 10W-30 in the manual. (Also depends on operating temperature)
@@v-g-z3689 yeah you’re right, but 10-30 is usually all i have, and it does it’s job in lubricating it. i’ll have to eventually change it out
@@v-g-z3689 I was convinced by the following argument: detergent vs non-det oil: Straight weight is non-det and used with NO OIL FILTER. Dirt is supposed to settle to the bottom of the crankcase. Multi Vis oil, 10w30 is Det and intended to keep the dirt suspended in the oil so the filter can remove it. I have seen non-filtered engines spec'd for det oil which I do not understand.
@@NoferTrunions That´s pretty easy to understand. If a non filtered engine is spec#d for det oil, the manufacturer hasn´t planed to regularly remove the oil sump to clean the sludge out that has setteled, he wants you to change the oil more often. But yes, at first glance it doesn´t make sense. By the way: only because an oil is straight weight doesn´t mean i´ts non-det. You have to look for the API specs of the oil. If it says SA or SB, it´s non det. Everything above SB is det.