Very good video and very in depth thank you for taking the time to explain what your doing as your doing it it helped so much as im rebuilding my js550
I don't know how you slid that cylinder down over the pistons so easy. Took two of us and one almost lost a finger in the process...other than that, GREAT video!!
over 20 years of assembling engines helps make it easier BUT the 440 , 550 and 650 are some of the more difficult to assemble engine because the sleeve doesn't drop below the jug
Great video I have a 1996 Kawasaki 1100 zxi that revs to the moon right when I start it not sure what’s causing it but I’m rebuilding the carbs thanks to your carb video I guess all se if that’s helps
Thank you very much! I finally disassembled my 550 engine that had a crank connecting rod bearing explode about 16 years ago. Was that Loctite 680 retaining compound and where can I get that coupler tool you’re using? Do you sell or rebuild cranks and if not do you have any preference on where to get one? I’ve been watching a lot of rebuild videos on CZcams before I attempted my rebuild but the technique, knowledge, advice in your videos are invaluable. Thanks!
email me id be happy to help you with the crank the tool www.watcon.com/tools/drive-coupler-removal-tool-kawasaki-440-550-650-750-800-900-1100-1200-octane
looks great man, im buying a 550 off my neighbor needs a full rebuild. Im gonna watch this a few times and it will probably take me 5x longer than you but hopefully she will run! can you just list whatever products I will need such as your preferred oil, gasket makers or lock tites ? iv been people use red permatex for the case and is it just 2 stroke oil to pre lube arms and crank? It has a brand new crank to drop in and gasket rebuild kit and seals with fresh bore and matching pistons. I will also need torque wrench but i will have the manual!
Hello! I watched your video on CZcams. You have a great understanding of engines! Can I ask you to send me by email instructions for repairing the kawasaki js 550 sx engine. Thank you!
Awesome videos... Got a question for you. So looking at picking up a very clean 1990 550SX with a piston port engine that has a high compression head(195, 190) respectively ported, full pipe, aftermarket water box, etc. Basically all the goodies. A little worried about reliability of the motor with the higher compression(going boom easier)..). Current owner says premium pump gas is ok to run, but dude that built the ski says race gas or 100LL. I keep going back and forth between getting a 550sx with the reed motor or settling with a modified port motor... Looking for obviously performance without sacrificing practicality
Question for you on your crank seal orientation. Even the kawi service manual says metal sides outward. Metal side facing coupler, metal side face stator. Any reason you do it the opposite way?
To be completely honest, I have seen several manuals that kawi and other manufacturers make tell you all different ways to mount them in different orientations. This is the way I was shown +20 years ago at the dealership I worked at, and it works. Also, depending on the seal manufacturer, some are metal, and some are covered in rubber. We have built tons of these engines over the years, and none have leaked.
I'm trying to seal an ultra 300x set of cases and the repair manual says to not apply the liquid sealer to the crank journal area. One end of the case/crank takes a seal but the other end does not. If I don't apply sealer to the end without a seal, won't it leak?
Hey man, great video, and excellent info! But I was wondering if your, or anyone in the comments would know a solid source for rebuild kits, piston, rings, top end bearings, and anything else I should be getting to do a complete rebuild? I'm up in Canada though, so sometimes we get nailed with shipping up here from the States. Any info would be amazing!
@@EricksonMachinePerformance not ready to do the work just yet! Would be great to be ready for spring but this is going to be a project I get started on in the spring!
Great Video, So no 3bond or anything on the seals to case, Also I always thought the front and rear seals were supposed to mount (spring side facing out) or am i mistaken? does it matter on the front
It's not needed. Unless using a aftermarket copper head gasket or there are some OLD aftermarket heads the use orings for the domes and case sealant for the water passages. But they done have a gasket. And are VINTAGE designs
Boring machines the hole larger and close to size. Honing finishes the hole. So on a rebuild both are done Here is a video that shows how it's done czcams.com/video/cjc3urZ0iBI/video.html
After assembling the crank halves, the crank is relatively hard to rotate. I took off the crank seals and it spins with almost no resistance. Can my crank seals be too tight on the crank shaft ends?
Hey Erik, after following your video step by step, i did a compression test and am getting 105psi in each cylinder. Should i get new pistons and rings to get it back up to a higher compression? Thanks
It's very rare that the rings are what causes the issue. It's normally the cylinder bore.check with a different compression tester first. And if still low you should have a machine shop inspect the cylinder. These engines are +30 years old at this point most are no longer within spec. On another note, if you did have the cylinder machined, it's fairly normal for compression To be funny until the engine is broken and the rings are fully seated.
where do you get your gasket kits? My aunt and cousin gave me their 550 with the aluminum block, because last summer they tried to pull it behind a boat, and it got swamped.
Is this cylinder ported? Also wondering if there is a reason you set the timing to stock, don't most people just advance them all the way on the 550's?
Thank you for the content. I'm currently trying to re-assemble my '87 JS550 engine. In the parts catalogue I noticed an additional sleeve at the rear (part no. 42036-3007) that you did not use or mention. It was missing in my engine too. Is there any reason for this?
It's stops the bearings from fretting the cases. Under high load and high rpm the bearings can shake in the cases and damage the aluminum. The retaining compound stops that from happening. This doesn't happen in every engine but it can and the retaining compound stops it from happening altogether.
Trying to figure out how to crack the nut loose on the starter side of crank , got the other side off with just a little cussing but now I can’t get the front one off. Any help would be appreciated
My 550 piston port is fully build high compression head wiseco pistons exhaust etc... it runs great but when ever I fall left the motor cuts out right away and shuts off. It has an sbn 44 and a custom rear exhaust as well. What could be the problem with it shutting off when I fall left? Low pop off pressure? Thanks
Dope. Thank you. How do you suggest I go about putting the pistons back into the head? I have a 1979 440 so trying to put two pistons rings on has been very tricky.
Do you know if the 440 crank cases are the same as 550 crank cases I have a 440 and I was going to rebuild it and order 550 jugs but some people say I will have to clearance the 440 crank case to make that work you seem to be very knowledgeable on the 550 motor I was wondering if you had any insight thank you
@@EricksonMachinePerformance is that something easy to do or even worth doing? Is it something I could do myself or is it something a machinist has to do?
My 550 has the outer crank seal the opposite from how you installed it. The flat part is facing out. I didn’t build the motor. In the Kawasaki manual it looks like the flat part is supposed to face out like I have it. Which way is correct?
To be honest with you I have seen them both ways in different manuals. This is just the way I was taught 20 or so year ago and I have yet to have an issuse.
Outstanding video I’m actually looking forward to my breakdown and rebuild now. For the Honda bond are your using the #4 tube or do I need the high temp? Also what kind of oil are you dropping in the crank during assembly? Thanks!
I can get the assembly goo, but I have a lot of Mobil grease mobilux ep1, which consists of lithium hydroxystearate. Do you know if I can use it in lieu of assembly goo?
Nice video man, Just rebuilt my 550 motor went .75 over bore. Just curious though, my rebuild is super air tight. Did a air pressure test and lost about 2 PSI in 15 mins, had to get a new SBT starter because the old one was not strong enough to turn this rebuild over. i havent tried the new starter yet, but is it normal to be really tough to crank these over by hand with plugs in after a rebuild?With the plugs out it cranks nice and smooth. thanks brother
@@EricksonMachinePerformance i didnt test the cylinders yet, the motor is not in the ski as of now. i just did a air leak test on the case after the rebuild to see if everything sealed right. but pumped to 10 psi and ended up at 8 after 15 mins
Hey man, where did you find that oil seal orientation? I have an assembly manual that shows both double lip seals closest to the crank with the single lip on the outside of them.....My kit like yours only has one double seal. The PWCtoday forum says to put the double seal on the stator side and the two single seals on the rear facing opposite ways. Wanted to know your thoughts as you seem to have the most thorough explanation on the web.
@@EricksonMachinePerformance I’m having a professional shop do it. Just a full restore, fresh reed motor, repaint and retrue hull and all new components except the original engine block. Not gonna be the fastest but I’m going for the cleanest just can’t decide colors and graphics.
@@EricksonMachinePerformance haha all good. I think they also have oil hole alignment issues from the top half of the case down to the bearings. I've read the front seal almost blocks the oil passage. 🤙
Very good video and very in depth thank you for taking the time to explain what your doing as your doing it it helped so much as im rebuilding my js550
I don't know how you slid that cylinder down over the pistons so easy. Took two of us and one almost lost a finger in the process...other than that, GREAT video!!
over 20 years of assembling engines helps make it easier BUT the 440 , 550 and 650 are some of the more difficult to assemble engine because the sleeve doesn't drop below the jug
Thanks man I just about to freshen mine up
awesome if you need parts or machine work hit us up
thanks for watching
Great video I have a 1996 Kawasaki 1100 zxi that revs to the moon right when I start it not sure what’s causing it but I’m rebuilding the carbs thanks to your carb video I guess all se if that’s helps
its most likely an air leak or carb issue its called a lean runaway if you want email me your phone # and ill try to help
Another great video.
Thanks again!
Hi Eric, what is the # bearing retainer you use? LOCTITE makes lots of them
Great videos!👍🏻👍🏻 I'm OCD and your workbench clutter makes me itch..lol🤣🤣
@hohntagger- me too
Sick video brother, just in time for my 550 to go back together
thanks
Thank you very much! I finally disassembled my 550 engine that had a crank connecting rod bearing explode about 16 years ago. Was that Loctite 680 retaining compound and where can I get that coupler tool you’re using? Do you sell or rebuild cranks and if not do you have any preference on where to get one? I’ve been watching a lot of rebuild videos on CZcams before I attempted my rebuild but the technique, knowledge, advice in your videos are invaluable. Thanks!
email me id be happy to help you with the crank
the tool
www.watcon.com/tools/drive-coupler-removal-tool-kawasaki-440-550-650-750-800-900-1100-1200-octane
is there a more up to date link for the tool?
looks great man, im buying a 550 off my neighbor needs a full rebuild. Im gonna watch this a few times and it will probably take me 5x longer than you but hopefully she will run! can you just list whatever products I will need such as your preferred oil, gasket makers or lock tites ? iv been people use red permatex for the case and is it just 2 stroke oil to pre lube arms and crank? It has a brand new crank to drop in and gasket rebuild kit and seals with fresh bore and matching pistons. I will also need torque wrench but i will have the manual!
email me ericksonmap@gmail.com
Hello!
I watched your video on CZcams. You have a great understanding of engines! Can I ask you to send me by email instructions for repairing the kawasaki js 550 sx engine. Thank you!
Unfortunately I don't have instructions to email.
What oils would you prefer to run on an what to not run thanks 👍 i have a 91 550 also west coast parts
@@randyroth383 we use kloz ski kraft
Thanks for the videos...
thanks buddy
Awesome videos... Got a question for you. So looking at picking up a very clean 1990 550SX with a piston port engine that has a high compression head(195, 190) respectively ported, full pipe, aftermarket water box, etc. Basically all the goodies. A little worried about reliability of the motor with the higher compression(going boom easier)..). Current owner says premium pump gas is ok to run, but dude that built the ski says race gas or 100LL. I keep going back and forth between getting a 550sx with the reed motor or settling with a modified port motor... Looking for obviously performance without sacrificing practicality
195 is borderline. Race gas
Question for you on your crank seal orientation. Even the kawi service manual says metal sides outward. Metal side facing coupler, metal side face stator. Any reason you do it the opposite way?
To be completely honest, I have seen several manuals that kawi and other manufacturers make tell you all different ways to mount them in different orientations. This is the way I was shown +20 years ago at the dealership I worked at, and it works. Also, depending on the seal manufacturer, some are metal, and some are covered in rubber. We have built tons of these engines over the years, and none have leaked.
@@EricksonMachinePerformance thank you for your knowledgeable input! Great video too btw! 🍻
I'm trying to seal an ultra 300x set of cases and the repair manual says to not apply the liquid sealer to the crank journal area. One end of the case/crank takes a seal but the other end does not. If I don't apply sealer to the end without a seal, won't it leak?
Hey man, great video, and excellent info! But I was wondering if your, or anyone in the comments would know a solid source for rebuild kits, piston, rings, top end bearings, and anything else I should be getting to do a complete rebuild? I'm up in Canada though, so sometimes we get nailed with shipping up here from the States. Any info would be amazing!
Email me ericksonmap@gmail.com
Do you need time the stator? Sorry I thought I heard that somewhere, I guess I’m going to be doing crank seals on my 440 so I could us the advice
Hey I have a Kawasaki 750 engine I’m trying to rebuild. Would you happen to have a video of the take down of this engine you reassembled ?
I'm getting ready to do 1 but it's very similar to the Kawasaki 650 video
Awesome man. Gave me some serious confidence! Do you re sleeve 550 cylinders? Also...did they fix the torque wrench for you?
Yes I resleeve 550s. Email me ericksonmap@gmail.com. and yes Snap-on rebuilt it good as new and recalibrated it for $90 ! 🙂🙂🙂🙂
@@EricksonMachinePerformance not ready to do the work just yet! Would be great to be ready for spring but this is going to be a project I get started on in the spring!
@@robanthony4042 no problem let me know when ur ready!
Good video!
Thanks!
Great Video, So no 3bond or anything on the seals to case, Also I always thought the front and rear seals were supposed to mount (spring side facing out) or am i mistaken? does it matter on the front
I use Honda bond. U can see around the 9 min mark. Depending on the motor the seals can go different directions.
so even if you have an aftermarket high comp head , you don’t need any gasket maker/ three bond/ permatex as well as the head gasket ?
It's not needed. Unless using a aftermarket copper head gasket or there are some OLD aftermarket heads the use orings for the domes and case sealant for the water passages. But they done have a gasket. And are VINTAGE designs
Honing isn't like boring is it ? I'm hoping to rebuild a stand up 550 jet ski and I'm gonna have to rebuild the motor and I don't wanna mess it up
Boring machines the hole larger and close to size. Honing finishes the hole.
So on a rebuild both are done
Here is a video that shows how it's done
czcams.com/video/cjc3urZ0iBI/video.html
After assembling the crank halves, the crank is relatively hard to rotate. I took off the crank seals and it spins with almost no resistance. Can my crank seals be too tight on the crank shaft ends?
Check if the crank is true. Sounds like it's not
Do you have any pictures of your ring end gap?
I can take pictures we have several 550s here at the moment. Why?
Hey Erik, after following your video step by step, i did a compression test and am getting 105psi in each cylinder. Should i get new pistons and rings to get it back up to a higher compression? Thanks
Is the cylinder freshly machinined?
@@EricksonMachinePerformance yes
It's very rare that the rings are what causes the issue. It's normally the cylinder bore.check with a different compression tester first. And if still low you should have a machine shop inspect the cylinder. These engines are +30 years old at this point most are no longer within spec. On another note, if you did have the cylinder machined, it's fairly normal for compression To be funny until the engine is broken and the rings are fully seated.
@tomken5919 if it's freshly machined break it in and then check. It's normal for the compression to be funny before breaking
@@tomken5919 before break in
where do you get your gasket kits? My aunt and cousin gave me their 550 with the aluminum block, because last summer they tried to pull it behind a boat, and it got swamped.
tore it down dumped the water out cleared the fuel system, and just need to find the gaskets, before putting everything back together
Is this cylinder ported? Also wondering if there is a reason you set the timing to stock, don't most people just advance them all the way on the 550's?
it is lightly ported with a milled head. This customer just wants a reliable setup. the raised compression is enough for him.
Thank you for the content. I'm currently trying to re-assemble my '87 JS550 engine. In the parts catalogue I noticed an additional sleeve at the rear (part no. 42036-3007) that you did not use or mention. It was missing in my engine too. Is there any reason for this?
Thats the seal ring. I reused the oem crank so it was never removed
How much should a 550 head be milled to retain use of pump gas? Also what do you charge to mill a 550 head and lighten the flywheel?
I charge 75 for a head and 75 for flywheel.
Is that red bottle you use one the bearings the retaining compound is it locktight?
Loctite 620
What is the purpose of the retaining compound you put on the crank?
It's stops the bearings from fretting the cases. Under high load and high rpm the bearings can shake in the cases and damage the aluminum. The retaining compound stops that from happening. This doesn't happen in every engine but it can and the retaining compound stops it from happening altogether.
Trying to figure out how to crack the nut loose on the starter side of crank , got the other side off with just a little cussing but now I can’t get the front one off. Any help would be appreciated
Impact gun
My 550 piston port is fully build high compression head wiseco pistons exhaust etc... it runs great but when ever I fall left the motor cuts out right away and shuts off. It has an sbn 44 and a custom rear exhaust as well. What could be the problem with it shutting off when I fall left? Low pop off pressure? Thanks
Did you get this figured out? I've got same engine and carb and tuning has been soo hard.. what size jets and needle/seat/spring did you use?
Do u sell the coupler tool that your using with impact.
Are you using 2 stroke oil to lubricate the components
Yes straight 2 stroke oil
Dope. Thank you. How do you suggest I go about putting the pistons back into the head? I have a 1979 440 so trying to put two pistons rings on has been very tricky.
@@christianloudermilk3894 have someone help you. It's a practice makes perfect
Thank you!
Do you know if the 440 crank cases are the same as 550 crank cases I have a 440 and I was going to rebuild it and order 550 jugs but some people say I will have to clearance the 440 crank case to make that work you seem to be very knowledgeable on the 550 motor I was wondering if you had any insight thank you
Upper part of the cases needs to be cut to clearance for the larger pistons
@@EricksonMachinePerformance is that something easy to do or even worth doing? Is it something I could do myself or is it something a machinist has to do?
@@bobfredrickson7921 it needed to be done on a milling machine or boring bar
@@EricksonMachinePerformance thank you
My 550 has the outer crank seal the opposite from how you installed it. The flat part is facing out. I didn’t build the motor. In the Kawasaki manual it looks like the flat part is supposed to face out like I have it. Which way is correct?
To be honest with you I have seen them both ways in different manuals. This is just the way I was taught 20 or so year ago and I have yet to have an issuse.
@@EricksonMachinePerformance yeah, that’s the way I see most people doing it. Thanks
Outstanding video I’m actually looking forward to my breakdown and rebuild now. For the Honda bond are your using the #4 tube or do I need the high temp? Also what kind of oil are you dropping in the crank during assembly? Thanks!
#4 is what I use. And I'm using straight 2 stroke oil
@@EricksonMachinePerformance awesome thanks for quick response
May I know where do you buy the parts and gaskets?
I'm a dealer for all brands. Feel free to email me I'd be happy to supply you
What brand gasket kit do you use on your rebuilds?
Depends. Mainly. Wsm , COMETIC or oem. If you need any feel free to email us ericksonmap@gmail.com
I can get the assembly goo, but I have a lot of Mobil grease mobilux ep1, which consists of lithium hydroxystearate. Do you know if I can use it in lieu of assembly goo?
Most grease will do. But I prefer assembly goo
@@EricksonMachinePerformance I sent you an email regarding your service. I don’t know if you’ve gotten it
@@theazndudelivefree can u send.me another email
Nice video man, Just rebuilt my 550 motor went .75 over bore. Just curious though, my rebuild is super air tight. Did a air pressure test and lost about 2 PSI in 15 mins, had to get a new SBT starter because the old one was not strong enough to turn this rebuild over. i havent tried the new starter yet, but is it normal to be really tough to crank these over by hand with plugs in after a rebuild?With the plugs out it cranks nice and smooth. thanks brother
It's normal with plugs in. What psi did u test at?
@@EricksonMachinePerformance i didnt test the cylinders yet, the motor is not in the ski as of now. i just did a air leak test on the case after the rebuild to see if everything sealed right. but pumped to 10 psi and ended up at 8 after 15 mins
Yes what psi did u leakdown test it at
@@EricksonMachinePerformance started at 10 ended up at 8 after 15 mins
Was there any loss in the first 3 min?
Hey man, where did you find that oil seal orientation? I have an assembly manual that shows both double lip seals closest to the crank with the single lip on the outside of them.....My kit like yours only has one double seal. The PWCtoday forum says to put the double seal on the stator side and the two single seals on the rear facing opposite ways.
Wanted to know your thoughts as you seem to have the most thorough explanation on the web.
Where do you buy the new parts from?
We are a dealer for most major manufactures and parts supply, Wiseco , Wossner , WSM, Race winning brands, Hot Products ect...
What’s your opinion on sbt cranks? Also what brand gasket kit is that? Thanks
I personally don't trust ANY parts made.by that company. Nor will I install them.
Yeah I’ve heard bad things about them. What are some good aftermarket cranks?
@@benselby6171 hotrod cranks aren't bad BUT I true and weld everyone I sell. WSM makes a good crank. And ADR and Crankworks are the best
Is Wsm, adr, and crank works already fully welded and trued?
@@benselby6171 trued yes. Welding is an option adr,and crankworks offers. I weld them all myself
I think I’m boutta drop 6 grand on a 550 build
If u need help feel free to message me
@@EricksonMachinePerformance I’m having a professional shop do it. Just a full restore, fresh reed motor, repaint and retrue hull and all new components except the original engine block. Not gonna be the fastest but I’m going for the cleanest just can’t decide colors and graphics.
At 16:30 you started mentioning a flaw, but never said what it is lol
Wow sorry about that. 🙄 they are prone to base gasket failures. The base gasket sealing surface is really small so they need to be perfect.
@@EricksonMachinePerformance haha all good. I think they also have oil hole alignment issues from the top half of the case down to the bearings. I've read the front seal almost blocks the oil passage. 🤙