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- čas přidán 28. 01. 2020
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![Builders Don't Install Kitchens [Part 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qPLOlnNprEI/mqdefault.jpg)
![Builders Don't Install Kitchens [Part 2]](/img/tr.png)
![The Kitchen Renovation Begins [Part 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/l23q24DyWZ8/mqdefault.jpg)
For positioning a tv on the wall I’ve never gone wrong cutting the front off the box and using it as a mock up.
As a former av installer you just blew my mind and made me regret so many days of back pain
@@collincurtis5478 the definition of insanity is to do something over and over (back pain) and expect a different result. Smarter not harder old mate
Genius idea!
Hey Scott cheers from the US I started my first carpentry job today as an apprentice doing commercial finish work, thanks for all the insight on your channel.
Greg Piskos, I would say so, I’m in a labor union, pretty much guarantees 40 hours a week, and as a first year apprentice the starting wage is $18/hr US
Mark of the pro: Clean up after you're done, even if the place is not that messy.
I've been working in this field (renovation/remodeling) a few years now, and really noticed how big of an impact cleaning up after your work leaves. You just do it always. The clients don't really care if the bill is a little bit bigger, but they are really happy if they dont have to start cleaning up somebody elses trash when they get home.
Yeah, cleaning up is essential
Yes, a new video!!! Always great to see the process.
When the music stopped at 5:24, my heart skipped. Gave me the sense I had cut something wrong on the job... which I'm not even doing lmao.
Ha yep. Like ruining a benchtop cutting the wrong side of the line.
That tv bracket will now stay up in a hurricane.
yep looks perfectly level - into the framing that the best way . Great Job Scott!!!!!!!
It's always fun trying to get all the information together to get the permits. Waiting to get approvals, see if they need changes, etc. Waiting for the inspector to show up and sign off on parts of the job can really slow things down. Especially small jobs where there isn't much to do until we get the green light, wait around until the inspector shows up. But it's best to do things right and get an inspection. Great vid, nice to see you back!
and yet this still happens - www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=12265490
Thanks for the inside! It is fantastic to see how similar construction code around your area is but yet so different. Nice video!
Regards,
Etna.
P.S.: I kinda want to see that bubble of your level now.
Great video gives people an idea of the process when wanted to renovate .
Saludos partner!!!
I was desperate to watch another exciting episode of SBC!!!
Is only me or this is becoming a heavy addiction??? 🤣🤣🤣
I am binge watching SBC right now. Totally addicted.
@@hatimkolh I'm also binge watching, and knowing that I am coming to the end of the backlog is making me hyperventilate. As I will have to wait for each new episode, might have to go back and watch some older ones for a second or third time.
Speed squares, best tool ever
Hope the Council approvals come through quickly!🙃😎looking forward to your next video SBC.
Hi Scott. I enjoy your videos and I learn a lot. Something I think you may like is Makita XDS01Z 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless Cut-Out Saw. Its great for those kind of drywall jobs. They're made to connect to a vacuum, but they pick up most of the dust in the dust shroud that can be emptied.
Scott, you are always a Great!
Permission for such a small job seems so counter productive! I'm shocked, councils must be inundated with applications around the clock
Yep. U own the house but got to go to council get permits and pay big fees for.... Inserting a wood fire, inserting new wet tile shower, insulation- walls, changing anything in house structure wise.
@@annw8909 problem with issuing a reciept when tradies need to issue a reciept they will often have to follow the books so if it does come back to bite them they can prove to the courts they got the job done and insurance will cover them for liability. Same in sydney bathroom renos over x amount need a waterproof sign off
FYI Makita make a wall-chaser tool for jobs just like this. It looks like a jigsaw but has a short blade with adjustable depth so you can go through the gyprock but not into the studs.
Thanks for another awsome episode Scott :) im also carpenter in auckalnd also running youtube channel. Ive always looked up to u and huge fan of you ! Hope all the best in 2020 Scott
Thanks for another SBC episode
so wait you need consent to make a tiled bathroom waterproof? wtf.
Glad to see your alive mr brown
good job hanging that tv, will never fall down but with tvs being so lite weight ands the arms mounted on it being pretty close together, two big screws in the middle and some hollow wall anchors on the corners will be more than enough to hold it up
Its interesting to hear how your building process runs!
Gotta move to that festool multitool for that real good dust extraction
No leak if you just use a liquid applied waterproofing . I work in renos in australia . the only reason we end up having to rip it all out is that there isnt any waterproofing behind the tile . Dunlop does a liquid applied undertile waterproofing . added to that is a fiberglass meshing to put in the corners and junctions and you have a minimum 10 year warranty ( if done correctly should last for ever )
Jejjj new video! Keep up the good work.
Scott B. here... 💪😁🔨📏📐🧰🔧🔑
Love that you did it this way, always see chickens not put support in the wall.
4:44 thank you. I needed that :D
Gday Scott, Wishing you and your friends a late happy new year! Just wondering what are your go to framing screws, cheers
miss your video so much 👏👏👏
I love the music
It's funny you say it's slow around this period. I feel the same here in the UK.
I draw steel framed buildings and it's slow here too. But not because people are at the beach.
I associate the slowness with it being cold as f**k and nobody wanting to be out in the cold putting up a building haha.
Keep up the good work dude.
I’ve hung 20 or 30 TV mounts and TV as large as 80 inch. We use strap drywall plugs that have 240lb. holding ratings. We hit 1 stud and use strap mounts for the other 2 holes. I was puzzled on the drywall cutout. I too would of chased the wires with access holes behind the TV and another at the audio/video level connections.
You have all that weight hanging off one stud and then the rest off of a 10mm sheet that is relying on glue and a screw at the joins to hold it? Bit risky.
@Guy Thompson yea not too bad if its just a tilt mount. But the ones with a swing arm have a fkload of leverage on them and require more fixings.
Best stud finder, "ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow ".
@Greg Piskos They're not cheap, but get from Amazon and they aren't much more expensive than the awful Stanley and Zircon ones. I actually agree - I have the blue one though, it's absolutely brilliant.
Agreed! I bought one on amazon and love it www.amazon.com/Franklin-Sensors-FS710PROProSensor-Professional-Finder/dp/B0195K8OT4
Charles McADORY I use the T13.
spronkey I like my Zircon. It’s not awful in my opinion, but I prefer my franklin. Just use the zircon to double check when the franklin is having trouble, which isn’t often.
Maybe while you have the plasterboard off you can put a cable shoot in the wall behind the TV down to just above the skirting boards to run cables?
WOW this is a lot for hanging a TV. I would be scared of the bill! You only really need it on 1 stud and its perfectly safe, the rest just anchor them on drywall/plaster. A 60" TV weighs less than 50 pounds nowadays. Am i missing something? I only cut open walls when I have to run the cables down, even then its only a small hole and ill fish it down.
A bit overkill, but man's gotta eat.
I agree. I love his channel but that was some crazy shit. I forget what they are are called but a friend of mine gave me the name of some anchors I picked up at Home Depot for this exact situation and they work like a charm. One stud and then I used those anchors problem solved. My friend does this for a living.
Its not guys, chill. If you want to have it done right, this is the way. You dont use the plasterboard to support weight and this wall only has one layer of plasterboard. With this method you even have the advantage, that you can mount different mounts on the wall. If we/i do it, i use one layer "osb" and one layer plasterboard, or the method like in the video (when something "heavy" will hang on there). When we do plasterwork and we know something has to take more vibrations etc, we do 2 layers of plasterboard/or for sound insulation. This is maybe one of the best suggestions i can give: You get what you pay, better invest a little bit more $ in something you want to have for a long time, then fixing it all the time! Peace out ;-)
@@TheNIX001 I hung my TV 10 years ago, the only reason it would come off the wall is for an upgrade. I stand by my answer, 1 stud is all that is needed. The rest is unnecessary. Its not you get what you pay for, its paying for something you don't need. Have a good day!
@@connectedlocally1868 Still experts do it that way, cuz we instead of a privat person need to give guarantee. And like written above, you shouldnt hang/put heavy things on plasterboard (if you do it or not is your beer). But if you do it as an expert and the tv falls off the wall, who do you think is gonna pay for that or if the wall get some cracks. Second thing is, maybe his costumer wants it that way, who knows. I understand what you wannt to tell me but there is a difference between some one who does this for a living and some one who does it for himself. You better never come to germany cuz over here, i think 90% is too "overkill" for you. Not meant in a bad way, have a nice one too dude
Nice episode! But where is Paerau?!
I'm always amazed that there is nothing behind the drywall in this houses. Where I'm from most of the time there is some OSB, MDF or chipboard behind the drywall, or atleast two layers of drywall.
Hey Scott I noticed you always sub out tile and dry wall/jib. I was wondering if that is because you prefer not to/do not know how, or because it is required with your laws and licensing?
Can we get more renovation type videos ?
Why not just drop the tv height a bit an fix top of bracket to dwang line and one fixing in the middle on the bottom. Should have run some draw wires to do hidden cabeling to
Clean working tradesperson is the best type. Great work Scott.
I regularly hang teevees in art galleries for displaying video art. I never use the brackets. Just cut a split batten from any piece of scrap MDF or ply. Screw one side to the teevee, the other to two adjacent studs. Free, strong and doesn't wobble like the brackets. It's neater too, as the teevee sits closer to the wall. Also if you need to get behind the screen to plug in a cable etc, you just lift it off the wall without any toggles etc.
Uri id be worried about someone knocking it off the wall.
better check that kitchen wall isnt load bearing.Truss manufacturers can use internal walls to support(or hold down) trusses
Dear Scott, Why don't you use wall anchors?
The skip in the music during the track saw was great lol
good video bro
Your right about work being slow to kick off in NZ Scott were waiting for the next job to start also.
Also how does that worm drive saw go? I've seen them alot of us channels but never in nz
Yeah man, going to do a review very soon. I like it, great for framing.
Hey Scott off topic question, but do you prefer your power plunge saw over a battery one?
you could've added a brushed cable hider behind and below the tv to hide all the cables
Jacob H and an outlet for the power cord.
Hi, O I am so glad that I live in Germany!! We have no regulations off that kind......
Scott, you might want to look at getting a pocket screw jig such as the Kreg. Adding framing members like you did in this job is a lot nicer when you cut pocket holes for the screws albeit another step and another tool to pull out. That has become my goto method when I need to do the same. Also, consider getting a Makita drywall screw gun, I would not go back to a drill or driver now that I have one, and not just for drywall. PS I am originally from Canada and we call it gyp as well, gyprock is what we normally called it.
He's actually saying Gib. Short for Gibraltar Board the original brand name.
Bit of over kill on TV. Done loads of these without batons
I think the correct height is supposed to be the centre of the screen level with your eyes at your usual viewing point?
When the wall was cut out why not run the cables within the wall?
just a couple of screws and you've ran the cable. Might do it durin the full gig
If you mean AV and power cables, it’s against code (where I am anyway) to run extension or flexible power cords inside walls. AV would have been fine, tv power cord is a no go.
@@Mudder1310 not if you got a dedicated socket in the wall. I don't think he meant run an extension cable in the wall, but they should have had a power socket hard wired in to the power outlet circuit.
I was thinking coax & hdmi leads plus power to a socket behind the TV.
hes not a sparky and might not have had one handy, but either way he should have cut his holes and ran his cables, and wait for the sparky to wire up. 50mm distance between power and signal, so either side of the stud would be fine. A sparky could run it easy enough from the roof after the fact anyway.
did you say horizontal nog? LOL great vid. P.S. get the cordless makita track saw, i got one, it kicks the cords ass. LOL
Building consent to do a tile shower...ridiculous.
Everyplace is different, took me 2 years to get approval on a non-listed, but very high end roofing job. Now I am building a house where there are no approvals, no permits, no inspectors for anything other than the weeping bed. Of course we still follow code for insurance purposes and take lots of photos just in case. And we do get licensed trades to either do the installs or at least give us a write off.
consent costs based on build costs, that's a rort as well , does it cost more for the council to do the checks?
New Zealand has had a lot of trouble with poorly constructed tiled showers leaking. Because of this trouble regulatory authorities have placed strict controls on how they are to be constructed and checked. The fact that the current shower in this house is leaking is further evidence of the poor work practices that were common in New Zealand in the 1990’s and early 2000’s.
thenakinavy yes, it does cost more for the council to do checks on higher value building work. A job totalling 10k will have significantly less items to check than a job worth 500k. It makes complete sense that a higher value job would require more checks and so these additional checks cost more. This pricing structure actually helps home owners as the compliance cost reflects the volume of work done.
Larry F If you saw the number of showers that leak exactly at that point you'd know it's not that ridiculous. It's astonishing how many people think they know what's required to lay a watertight membrane. Or rather how many people don't even think there's anything to it or even tile a shower thinking the tiles themselves equate to a watertight enclosure. What's ridiculous is the consent charges for it. There should be a simple notification and inspection process just for the membrane.
in the kitchen how do you know its not a supporting wall
Is that a cableless Bluetooth feed t.v?. I see no cord.
What is the dust mask you are wearing Scott?
what’s the stud finder brand
At 4:00 you turn the level around to be sure the line is paralel to the ground even if the level might be a little off?
I have a question. Can somebody make those changes (like water proofing bathroom) by himself and without byrocracy in NZ? Where i live, unless i'm changing load bearing walls, i dont need any consent from anyone.
Yeah, so in theory you could do all the work yourself and then apply for a certificate of acceptance after the fact, but you'd need plenty of visual evidence that the work, the substrate and waterproofing membrane etc is up to code.
NZ had a leaky building crisis similar to parts of North America, so this is partially a consequence of that and also coz there's a more recent 'healthy homes' initiative so that peeps aren't suffering from mold and stuff from leaking bathrooms etc.
Up until around 1980, NZ homes didn't need insulation in the roof and I think the requirement for external wall insulation came in around the early / mid 1990's.
@@richardbaron7106 Thank you. Over here in Slovakia, regulations are increasing, but only for new houses, reconstructions has no certificates. But if you have good plans from architect and engineer, than all certificates are based on that and you just build to the specs. (and no one here has a wooden house). We build either with bricks or Ytong (don't know how popular are they in NZ) bricks.Old houses are usually from clay bricks (clay mixed with straws - amazing material). So it's fascinating for me to watch how stuff is made in NZ or US. Very different.
@@profifox2168 - I had to look up Ytong and it's been in here for just over 10 years, although not in a big way. There was a company selling sketchy Chinese knock-offs using the Hebel brand but they got closed down in 2013.
Europe def leads the way in sustainable building materials, construction techniques and insulation requirements - we're still lagging behind with noise insulation compared. I'm in a newly built townhouse with double-glazing and it's quieter inside my 21 year old Nissan Maxima QX!
What is the stud finder brand dont see in tools list ?-
why is the chippy hanging a tv? cant you get your sparky to do all that? so he can wire it at the same time?
modern tvs are so light you can probably hang them from the plasterboard. :D
also, install your TV lower and you won't get the neck ache later ;)
I don’t remember geek squad doing this mounting my tv lol.
Where can i get one of those RZ masks in Canada?
Smart idea to remove the plaster board.
4:09 if you don't have studs in the right location, or if you have steel studs (commercial buildings), you can use toggle bolts. Drill a 1/2in hole for where the bolts would go and insert the toggle bolt and fasten to the object. Link below is a test by Project Farm showing its strength, a great channel testing trades tools, consumables, etc.
(8:29) for the toggle bolt test
czcams.com/video/lHb-Tcvkn7M/video.html
I have used anchor walls they are extremely strong too
With such wide tv why not simplify and attach a nice white screwing plank onto the drywall for stud to stud as needed. THen attach the tv bracket avoiding mess, drywall repairs, painting etc. Just saying ... it’s a tv bracket.
Might it not be possible to appoint more people handling the consents from the amount of money the council is making off the "renovators", builders and developers .... just thinking out loud or typing in this case ?
Another good video by SBC !
Doing renovations in NZ seems like doing dental work gastroenterology style
Just putting this out there,,,,,, video everyday!!!! And two hours long please
T.vs are so light dude. You had plenty of fixing there. Just screw the bracket to the wall and done.
Those 600mm wide TV brackets are useless. Just return it and buy a 900mm wide one.
Can you please tell me what the stud finder brand and model is. I’ve tried a few and yet to find one that works.
Sam Chambers Franklin sensors T13 is my new favorite. Replaced my Zircon XA250 with it. Still use the zircon occasionally though.
you dont need build plans in australia to waterproof, all you need is a licence or licenced person to do it ,
Ciao Scott, perché non hai stuccato il muro? Passando vicino al tv si vede il taglio
Fabio Lipstick Ciao ... Scott ha detto che ripareranno il muro quando installeranno la nuova cucina in questa casa
Longueval NZ ok. Non parlo inglese e non ho sentito😅
You need to get yourself a Makita cordless gyprock cutter. Cuts sections of gyp like that out absolutely perfectly & in a fraction of the time with practically no dust.
Has adjustable blade length so you never cut through power cables or water.
I've had my eye on them, I was concerned about replacing the blades though. Are they pricey?
Scott Brown Carpentry About $25 each. I carry a spare but am still on the original after 10 months using it at least once a week. The blades are pretty forgiving on nails etc. brilliant for cutting door openings. I cut floor/ceiling penetrations to install personal lifts & the ceiling gyprock cuts out perfectly. Huge time saver.
@@recommit nice, might give it a try. Thanks
Curious, it's probably the terminology that you used but you said anytime you build a waterproof shower or bathroom you need consent. Aren't all showers and bath built waterproof in your part of the world? Great video as usual!
I imagine this means a wetroom with tiled floor, as opposed to a pre formed shower tray?
1st thing you need to do is get rid of that giant mammoth huge toolbelt And that way you'll quit banging into the walls in the furniture doing damage with that monstrosity Around your waist roll number one for any carpenter that works for me
What model is your studfinder as I am looking for one. Any suggestions.
Raymond Miles Franklin sensors make the best stud finder imo. They have multiple sensors in one, so much easier to use. Check out www.amazon.com/Franklin-Sensors-FS710PROProSensor-Professional-Finder/dp/B0195K8OT4
Thanks for that.
David Thomas I second that. I have the T13 and love it.
That Council Consent fee sounds like a huge 💰 grab
you MAKITA, nice men
It was totally unnecessary to open the wall the up to put in blocking. A couple lags into the one wood stud you had plus some toggle bolts into the drywall for good measure on the ends would have been fine, especially given that it's a flat mount. Even for an articulating mount, you would have been okay with that. These new TVs are not that heavy.
Agree.
What was the model of tv mount used here?
samkiasyn it’s Sanus. I’ve mounted over 1500 TVs and I highly recommend them.
What the hell?
All this to add waterproofing to a shower?? WTF
How does this guy have time to hang TV's?
Hey bud, out of interest why could you not use expanding wall anchors when hanging the tv on the plasterboard?
That's when the tv falls to the floor
I was thinking this. When I install TVs on plasterboard I use expanding anchors and not had any angry calls from a client yet. TVs are only getting lighter too. Though saying all of that, the TV did seem to have an adjustable angle and it was leaning very far forward. In that case I would look to using Corefix but in a timber framed house extra noggins is probably your best, if not only, option.
I'm using a fischer wall plugs, that one kitchen fitter recommended.
They are amazing, you can use them in every type of wall, my day job is to hang TV's, pictures, mirror and other stuff.
They never failed.
But everyone has his own preferences!
@@MR648 Yep, nail on the head (so to speak). This is not a vertical shear load it's pulling outwards. Anyone who relies on assuming that the type of plasterboard that has been used in a wall has a particular strength, clearly doesn't know what they don't know about lightweight plasterboard.
@@DiscoFang I mean, does it matter in this case if you have the centre point of the mount screwed strongly into the stud?
So if you install a shower that leaks (not waterproof) that doesn't need consent? ;)
Iain Arthur if it an acrylic you are fine, only when its full tiled shower as it has a high likely hood of leaking
@@incync6551 :) - It was more tongue in cheek than anything else, although I've had several full tiled/wetrooms that have never leaked and ripped out several showtray/shower over bath things that leaked like sieves
Totally unnecessary to open the wall. Use one stud to hold the weight and toggle anchors on the other side.
Smack that bracket up with 2 screws in the studs and some of those GRIPR HEAVY DUTY PLASTERBOARD FIXINGS. They hold 32KG per fixing into single plasterboard. That Tv would not have weighed more than 30 KG.
Until they don't. It's a sure fire way to eventually ruing both your wall and your tv.
@@DiscoFang Rubbish, they use those Gripr plasterboard fixings to hang radiator heaters on plasterboard walls in the Europe. Plus he could get some screws into the studs.
Michael Magill Depends on the type of plasterboard. Or didn't you realise there are different types?
Your council consent process makes me jealous. To do a bathroom reno in my city in California:
1. Get plans made
2. Pay city planning to approve the aesthetics
3. Pay city building dept to approve building portion
4. Pay city environmental dept to approve how I recycle everything
5. Pay city engineering dept to make me add solar panels and fire sprinklers
6. beg, cry, and moan until I get a permit, one year later and bankrupt
Robert Kressa II Where do you live? Thats crazy for anything inside thats not structural or a licensed trade!
@@matthewguthrie7675 Anywhere in Southern California, if its an incorporated city, will be similar. The city planner literally told me she didn't like how large my bathroom was going to be. So yes there was structural involved. No trades, I did everything myself.
No council consent needed in Holland to do a bathroom reno. And all goes well.
Robert Kressa II dang. I didn’t know we had it that bad here! Thank god I don’t do showers!
I wish the videos were longer.
I was in Dubai a few years ago in a meeting, when I was told most of the city and down town was just desert twenty odd years before. My answer was, it takes my council that long to empty my bins. Good look with your approvals coming through quick.
Hey Scott, if i hire you to do a job can i be in the youtube vid u do of it? I wanna be a youtube star too.. haha
Consent to work on a shower? *confused American noises*
Well, no. If you have a start date you work forward. If you have an end date you work backward.
The subs start date is his end date. He's talking about when he has to have the prep done by. I think.
Y u cut the wall out. 🙈. The noggs in the wall would of done the job.🤦♂️🤣👍