Actually just heat it close to boiling so the bubbles build and speed up the process of oxidation and the heat from the liquid quickly turns the oxidation into a “black” oxide. Once the coat becomes thick enough it will appear black. If you layer rust solution of vinegar, salt and/or hydrogen peroxide. You can get a pretty DEEP shade of black on your knife by dunking it in boiling water several times after rusting the surface and be sure to buff the excess black oxide off to get the best results. And flaking is a good thing. Convert to black and buff flat.
I used vinegar and it worked great. If you want a spotty look then use mustard. Im thinking of submerging my case carbon steel trapper. Wonder if it will affect the bolsters on it.
I saw this a few months ago and today I’m finally going to try it but I’ve already done the vinegar method multiple times I’m gonna try just Coke Coca-Cola and a mixture of Coca-Cola vinegar and water
very nice - I just received a new, shiny one (for now). Is that a 2 part treatment - coke then vinegar, or can you use straight vinegar. I'm looking at using a cold bluing, but I like the look of this even better. I assume the Coke is for the phosphoric acid - have you tried using a straight phosphoric acid - I think a higher concentration of that acid could be great and may allow one to skip the vinegar. THis is just a guess on my part - never tried it. Phosphoric acid is used in traditional HOT bluing methods along with HCl
Thanks, i might try the vinegar one sometime. All i did, with my Mora Carbon robust, was coat it with Japanese choji oil. And left it in the sheath :) Haven't had any rust, but i might try the patina thing. Question; does the process effect the edge at all? (do you need to resharpen the knife a little, afterwards?)
Do you have to do the coke first or even skip it? Looks like the coke didnt do much. On the vinegar you really could the a chemical reaction. Maybe you also dont have to put them in a glass full of vinegar and just rub them with it?
Very cool! Have you tried just the vinegar itself? It does seem like the Coke gives it a bluish hue that remains there even after the vinegar treatment ? Did the process it dull your edge at all out of curiosity? Thanks
i just sharpen my kris dagger to razor sharpness , i think i will cover the edge with electrical tape before inserting it into 50 : 50 vinegar solution.
I did my Conpanion HD with apple cider vinegar, no coke. I heated the vinegar until it just started to boil, then let the blade sit in it until it cooled to room temp (~45 min). Then I got rid of the old vinegar and repeated the process once more. It came out amazing. Looks just like the factory coating on the Bushcraft Black.
@@1mataleo1 super cool, thanks for describing that process. Does that process significantly dull the blade? I’m prepared to resharpen it afterwards but I’m just curious.
No problem. I did it as soon as I got the knife. After forcing the patina, I sharpened it on my waterstones. Factory edges are almost never up to my standard, and I always sharpen a new knife, so I didn’t even bother to check for edge degradation. However, it took very little to get the knife scary sharp, so I immagine the edge degradation was minimal. In hindsight, a strop loaded with white compound probably would have been sufficient to restore it to shaving sharp. So if there was degradation, it was very minimal.
Yes, beeswax and some oil makes a nice replacement for vaseline. The beeswax is too thick/hard on its own. I don't like using mineral oil, so I use mostly jojoba oil to thin the beeswax. Jojoba is mostly thin waxes rather than the fatty acids (and proteins) in most seed oils. The seed oils can go moldy/rancid, so there is a shelf life problem with the wrong oils. I also find the jojoba to wet the steel a little better than mineral oil. Beeswax has wonderful stickiness, adds thickness and is good for the leather if you have a leather sheath. If you want to control costs a little, use 50/50 beeswax and paraffin and then use 50/50 mineral oil and jojoba oil to thin it to a gel. Run the gel thicker in the summer and thinner in the winter.
It's just mineral oil, couple of dollars at Walmart or any pharmacy. It's food grade. "Vaseline" is petroleum jelly, also safe (they make chapstick from it). It's basically just various lengths of molecules of hydrocarbons. Methane, ethane, propane, butane, as the molecules get larger, it becomes liquid , then oily, then waxy, then solid - paraffin. Mineral oil is sold as laxative.
Vaseline is pretty much just thick mineral oil. You can use either. The vaseline will stick better and both are food safe in small amounts. I would rather use some beeswax mixed with jojoba oil to get it thick because it sticks really well and is good for leather sheaths. What I've settled on is about 50/50 mineral oil and jojoba oil (just for cost) and then add enough beeswax to get the thickness I like. Some call it a form of "fixin' wax" that you can use on knives, wood and other stuff. You may want to run it thicker in summer and thinner in winter. Baby Oil is usually a very thin mineral oil with some scent added. If you can get the unscented version, then it is a win for knife protectant, sharpening stone oil and many other uses. Regular mineral oil is usually a little too thick for sharpening stones.
That should be a commercial about the hazards of drinking Coke! 🤣 If it will do that to hardened steel, imagine what it’s doing to peoples guts. PS….if you will bring your vinegar almost to a boil, it will work faster and better
@@Testacabeza You can get much stronger phosphoric acid in the concrete cleaner at hardware and big box stores. I'm wondering if vinegar spiked with phosphoric and some salt will work best. Hot of course. I would tend to dip the blades in actively boiling water afterwards to finish off in a low oxygen environment so the black oxide can lock in without any red oxide.
Why are you forcing knife patina? Nobody cares what your knife looks like. Just use it in the kitchen for a few months. And any non stainless blade gets "Patina
Lock please tell me, I wonder at the end of the clip that says after making a patina we should have to sharpen again, I don't know if it includes knives that haven't been used because mine is new. Thank you.
It's rusting the surface. The edge is all surface, so you will lose a little edge. You'll want to resharpen. On a scandi, that means about 0.4 inches of non-patina steel along the whole length. So it is a more complete effect on a V-edge knife than on a scandi.
@@LockReviewEDCandTools maybe some straight up lofi? czcams.com/video/3SeOVVJXOUo/video.html Also, how does the patina hold up during work? Does it slow the rust significantly?
I came for the Coke but stayed for the music
After the coke I stayed for the music
I tried snorting Coke once..... but the bubbles damn near killed me.
@@JugglesGrenades 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 that was hilarious
I never thought I’d be engrossed in watching metal rust. I’m off to find some paint drying 😁.
Hot vinegar just under boiling on a scotch brite and de greased blade is fast and very dark. No red rust in use.
Thanks for this video!
The music is great imo.
Nice! Thanks for sharing the idea.
Now the neighbours think I'm watching 80's porno.
😂😂😂
Definitely like the vinegar.. music is nice..
Thank you, I have my mora looking like a killer now
great!!
Interesting. Looks like just using vinegar in a glass for a few hours turns out nice! No boiling the vinegar!!! Thanks for doing the video.
Gotta wonder if the previous coke treatment had any bearing
Actually just heat it close to boiling so the bubbles build and speed up the process of oxidation and the heat from the liquid quickly turns the oxidation into a “black” oxide. Once the coat becomes thick enough it will appear black. If you layer rust solution of vinegar, salt and/or hydrogen peroxide. You can get a pretty DEEP shade of black on your knife by dunking it in boiling water several times after rusting the surface and be sure to buff the excess black oxide off to get the best results. And flaking is a good thing. Convert to black and buff flat.
I heated mine in the microwave for 2-3 minutes. Got nice and hot, worked fine.
Pretty Nice! Thanks for this :)
Very cool man. Ty
Outstanding!
I used vinegar and it worked great. If you want a spotty look then use mustard. Im thinking of submerging my case carbon steel trapper. Wonder if it will affect the bolsters on it.
Wow, i like it, very interesting
I saw this a few months ago and today I’m finally going to try it but I’ve already done the vinegar method multiple times I’m gonna try just Coke Coca-Cola and a mixture of Coca-Cola vinegar and water
Not trying to be a smart ass but I did it on accident using it to mix my adult beverages.
very nice - I just received a new, shiny one (for now). Is that a 2 part treatment - coke then vinegar, or can you use straight vinegar. I'm looking at using a cold bluing, but I like the look of this even better. I assume the Coke is for the phosphoric acid - have you tried using a straight phosphoric acid - I think a higher concentration of that acid could be great and may allow one to skip the vinegar. THis is just a guess on my part - never tried it. Phosphoric acid is used in traditional HOT bluing methods along with HCl
is this the same process as with ferric chloride? mygreathanks and blessings
After you patina a carbon blade like this, do you still have to worry about oiling it after each use or does this help to take care of that?
I've done mine with vinegar in the past, I use bacon grease on them to keep it nice and lubed up.
in my experience instant coffee also works very well, gives a very dark finish
Nice video, informative.
真的很棒，兄弟
Bel video 🤚
Thanks, i might try the vinegar one sometime.
All i did, with my Mora Carbon robust, was coat it with Japanese choji oil. And left it in the sheath :)
Haven't had any rust, but i might try the patina thing.
Question; does the process effect the edge at all? (do you need to resharpen the knife a little, afterwards?)
I’m no expert but sharpening it will be removing the thin patina layer. Need to patina again after any sharpening (I think?!)
Do you have to do the coke first or even skip it? Looks like the coke didnt do much. On the vinegar you really could the a chemical reaction. Maybe you also dont have to put them in a glass full of vinegar and just rub them with it?
Coke will clean and loosen the rust. He should have hit that rough spot on the back of the one blade before he went in the vinegar.
Is it okay to just to the first part of I want to get rid of the rust ?
Also I was wondering if the knife could be sharpened after this process.
yes you can sharp it
If you sharpened the blade will it change it back or still black?
The oxidized layer comes off with any abrasive
@@OEF_Vet_0331 too bad, i thought it will be permanent, thx for the info
Very cool! Have you tried just the vinegar itself? It does seem like the Coke gives it a bluish hue that remains there even after the vinegar treatment ? Did the process it dull your edge at all out of curiosity? Thanks
i just sharpen my kris dagger to razor sharpness , i think i will cover the edge with electrical tape before inserting it into 50 : 50 vinegar solution.
I did my Conpanion HD with apple cider vinegar, no coke. I heated the vinegar until it just started to boil, then let the blade sit in it until it cooled to room temp (~45 min). Then I got rid of the old vinegar and repeated the process once more. It came out amazing. Looks just like the factory coating on the Bushcraft Black.
@@1mataleo1 super cool, thanks for describing that process. Does that process significantly dull the blade? I’m prepared to resharpen it afterwards but I’m just curious.
No problem. I did it as soon as I got the knife. After forcing the patina, I sharpened it on my waterstones. Factory edges are almost never up to my standard, and I always sharpen a new knife, so I didn’t even bother to check for edge degradation. However, it took very little to get the knife scary sharp, so I immagine the edge degradation was minimal. In hindsight, a strop loaded with white compound probably would have been sufficient to restore it to shaving sharp. So if there was degradation, it was very minimal.
@@1mataleo1 excellent info, many thanks!!
Apakah tetap tajam?
Is there a specific brand of vinegar you use? Thxs
Just use a cleaning vinegar.
The cheapest ones in the supermarket are fine.
Would beeswax make a good alternative to the vaseline?
Yes, molten beeswax works pretty good actually
Yes, beeswax and some oil makes a nice replacement for vaseline. The beeswax is too thick/hard on its own. I don't like using mineral oil, so I use mostly jojoba oil to thin the beeswax. Jojoba is mostly thin waxes rather than the fatty acids (and proteins) in most seed oils. The seed oils can go moldy/rancid, so there is a shelf life problem with the wrong oils. I also find the jojoba to wet the steel a little better than mineral oil. Beeswax has wonderful stickiness, adds thickness and is good for the leather if you have a leather sheath.
If you want to control costs a little, use 50/50 beeswax and paraffin and then use 50/50 mineral oil and jojoba oil to thin it to a gel.
Run the gel thicker in the summer and thinner in the winter.
What kind of vinegar is this?
Just use a cleaning vinegar.
The cheapest ones in the supermarket are fine.
Are they suitable for food processing?!!
yes sure
Earth is not flat, and Phosphoric acide is an excellent way For Patina to help to prevent rust !
So can you use any vinagar
Yes.
Does anybody have a link to the vaseline oil he is speaking of?
It's just mineral oil, couple of dollars at Walmart or any pharmacy. It's food grade. "Vaseline" is petroleum jelly, also safe (they make chapstick from it). It's basically just various lengths of molecules of hydrocarbons. Methane, ethane, propane, butane, as the molecules get larger, it becomes liquid , then oily, then waxy, then solid - paraffin. Mineral oil is sold as laxative.
@@alexk3088 thanks, i wound up melting vaseline because there is no such thing as vaseline oil.
Vaseline is pretty much just thick mineral oil. You can use either. The vaseline will stick better and both are food safe in small amounts.
I would rather use some beeswax mixed with jojoba oil to get it thick because it sticks really well and is good for leather sheaths.
What I've settled on is about 50/50 mineral oil and jojoba oil (just for cost) and then add enough beeswax to get the thickness I like. Some call it a form of "fixin' wax" that you can use on knives, wood and other stuff. You may want to run it thicker in summer and thinner in winter.
Baby Oil is usually a very thin mineral oil with some scent added. If you can get the unscented version, then it is a win for knife protectant, sharpening stone oil and many other uses. Regular mineral oil is usually a little too thick for sharpening stones.
Sharpening will just take that patina straight off and for a scandi that’s like half the knife
it only takes a couple of passes to sharpen the knife...steel is carbonaceous
@@LockReviewEDCandToolsdoesn't the patina go away after a single pass of a sharpening stone?
How does the patina hold up with regular use?
Good question. I'm guessing fairly well since it seems like a gentle etching
That should be a commercial about the hazards of drinking Coke! 🤣
If it will do that to hardened steel, imagine what it’s doing to peoples guts.
PS….if you will bring your vinegar almost to a boil, it will work faster and better
Can you drink the coke afterwards? LOL
They turned out great!
yeah😂
Like if you think rhe carbon steel is better than stanlees steel!!!!
can you use Sprite or Fanta🤔
I suppose what works there is the phosphoric acid, not present in other drinks.
@@Testacabeza You can get much stronger phosphoric acid in the concrete cleaner at hardware and big box stores.
I'm wondering if vinegar spiked with phosphoric and some salt will work best. Hot of course.
I would tend to dip the blades in actively boiling water afterwards to finish off in a low oxygen environment so the black oxide can lock in without any red oxide.
Coke with carbolic acid versus vinegar with acetic acid. Take a guess why drinking Coke is bad for you.
My wife put mine in the dishwasher and it made it patina.
If you want to keep people outa yur man cave use mustard wraps and hot vinegar! Do all yur knives from yur weekly shipment!
[(Coca Cola)×100`C + 3 ml ethanol 99%]\ 1 hour = Super result!
Las pátinas forzadas son feas son mas guapas las naturales
I don't think they are ugly when forced.
But I think I get your thought behind this.
Natural ones have a story in them, they have a history.
Nu mai taie!
Why would you do this? Aesthetics? Swimming upstream? Not getting it.
It avoids rust to come on the blade
That’s 13 minutes of material for 3-4 minutes of information maximum 🙄- but besides that thanks for sharing this process!
all steps explained..😅🤙
Why are you forcing knife patina? Nobody cares what your knife looks like. Just use it in the kitchen for a few months. And any non stainless blade gets "Patina
Lock please tell me, I wonder at the end of the clip that says after making a patina we should have to sharpen again, I don't know if it includes knives that haven't been used because mine is new. Thank you.
It's rusting the surface. The edge is all surface, so you will lose a little edge. You'll want to resharpen. On a scandi, that means about 0.4 inches of non-patina steel along the whole length. So it is a more complete effect on a V-edge knife than on a scandi.
Thank you very much@@martinhafner2201
Music is super annoying
yes i know😅..any suggestion for next videos?
@@LockReviewEDCandTools maybe some straight up lofi? czcams.com/video/3SeOVVJXOUo/video.html
Also, how does the patina hold up during work? Does it slow the rust significantly?
I thought it was cool...makes me wanna shoot pool lol
better than tiktok music tho.
I like the music