Holley Carb Flooding: The NOT immediately Obvious Problem!
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- čas přidán 7. 08. 2024
- dont let this one leave you stranded! I have come across this a few times - it can be quite the head scratcher if you don't know what to look for!!!
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
This was mike's (classicmustangs429 @ youtube) first experience with me back in 2017 - man he was mad at first!!! can you say "bad timing"?? LOL Classic "you touch it, and it later breaks" moment.
its good how you all get along i wish i had that
? 4 u.....
I'm old 61....what is it with the parking lot burn outside in a circle???
Looks like a broken axle waiting to happen...
LOL or worse 🙀😖🥴🤔
I'm not busting your chops, just trying 2 understand
I've got one that's flooding causing bad hot starts. Every bit of carb information you teach us is golden.
Explain that please because my wires are getting hot an carb is spiting fuel
One of the coolest channels on here, thanks for posting
Thanks so much!
Thanks for the info. I had THAT EXACT problem. I could screw down the valves fully. Fuel was still pouring out of the vents. I replaced the o-rings. Fixed It !!! 👍🏻
man i hope they dont cancell power tour this year, would be cool to meet you since its coming to davenport again. great videos, thanks Luke
GOOD TIP!!! I think I have to check this on my 600. It has similar symptoms sometimes..
I chased a Holly flooding problem around for 2 or 3 weeks on my first race car. It was a sunk metal float which I had never seen before. I still have that float as a reminder. For a few decades it still had fuel in it, but it's dry now.
Lol at the door not closing when your sitting in it but closes fine when your outside
That’s how screwed that car was!
@@ThunderHead289 Subframe connectors man.
Or just some tubing and an hour with a wire welder.
lol
Thanks for the video, having exactly that problem but couldn’t work it out, I’ll swap out the float valve and go from there, cheers
I can relate to having almost the same issue on my 65 Fairlane500 a.k.a(Holley) 289 but with the Summit 600cfm after a decent 9yrs. of mild rampaging issue free/ never a tow until Mabe 3yrs i took her out and got 3 f`n`blocks- solo i had her towed back after seeing the secondary`s pissin away down the carb -eng/off from stall/flooding- Parked of course. So, i finally got the Holley 4160- 6AN Braided lines from the pump, tune-up basics the next day(and today still sits in my room brand new in box's always mad dogging from the shelf. ) Sadly, that year i lost my grandfather, a year after was his daughter/my Mom = The only 2 Mentors once in this life i had Unconditional Love, Respect, but NEVER FORGOTEN- R.I.P fam. + covid a few months after that Holleys been hibernating in this Los Angeles wackness, and lack of my local Ford pit crew/ support shits been looking grim. But a good thing is I been learning Holley/Ford set-ups you done helping me with my resto-mods course planning/Prep i really appreciate your knowledge and video on classic Fords. Might just bring her back this summer if can afford new springs all around after "Stage 2" applied- stage 3 goanna be rear-mount turbo!! will post a channel hopefully soon 2- Ford FTW- kill anything ch--y you know
I have the exact same issue with my holley 600. Will check the O ring. Thanks from the UK
I had the same problem quite a few years back, only I had a quaderajet carb. I took it apart, cleaned it, put it back together and ran fine for awhile, then it did it again. I cleaned it again. Ran great for a while, then it did it again. The only thing I could come up with was replace the mechanical fuel pump, so I did. The carb never flooded over after that.
Great video 😁 lot of good information thanks for sharing and "Howdy from Texas"!! BTW love that Buick 😍
Howdy!
I hope kevin gets back to the wildcat soon !!!!
Very interesting and informative video buddy 👍
Thanks for your videos, Luke, I've always been a Holley guy. I fell in love with the 4010 back in the day and was disappointed when Holley dropped it. As most people probably know, it's a similar version of Ford's classic 4100 series. I damned near shit my pants when I saw that Summit had reintroduced it with some needed improvements a few years back. The annular boosters on them are a real asset to atomization into the venturies. Really glad to see the intro of a 500 CFM model of the Summit carb, it's just right for a 289, 302 (5.0) and even some 351s.
As for those O-rings on those needle and seats, some old stock assemblies may have the old black colored Buna-N type O-rings on them. O-rings made of that substance did just fine with straight gasoline, but don't hold up too well with the Ethanol that can be found in today's fuels. Add a little age to those things and they'll deteriorate even quicker. A Viton type O-ring will cure the Ethanol issue and there's not a lot of expense to them. If you can't find someone that sells them, Harbor Freight is usually about everywhere, it sells a, 180 Piece Viton O-ring kit: Item#95450, that has an O-ring that'll work. These O-rings typically have a brownish color to them. As John Milner said in his comment, it helps to put a little oil or Vaseline on the O-ring before you install your needle and seat, it'll make installation and adjustments a little less stressful on that O-ring.
A note on what you'll find in the kit: The 3rd from the smallest O-ring in the kit seems to fit the best for me; it's a little smaller than the original, but once you install it it seems to work fine. Put the O-ring onto the needle assembly from the end without the threads, it'll go on easier and you won't damage it. Peace
An absolute great tech tip 👆👆
Wow, really appreciate you taking the time to write this and list part numbers. Wish I could give you two thumbs up
Nice and informative carb video
Oh hey the wildcat!
Oh mang Luke! That's awesome u found that. I had a similar issue with my 4150 road demon. It was the power valve block gasket on the secondaries. Im sure you've noticed when removing a power valve sometimes that gasket will rip in even halfs. With the engine off I could here it filling the venturies with fuel. Easy fix if u have gaskets on hand😉
Man isn’t that the absolute strangest thing - and it’s like a perfect shear, enough where a guy would think that holley accidentally put on two gaskets. But if you use just one of the halves, she will leak!
It’s the one gasket that has a 100 percent fail rate when removed!
Oh yea, for sure lol. I've heard of o ring gaskets for them now. Never seen em tho and I wont believe it till I see em available in a holley package
This video helped me my car! 86 Camaro!
Luke!! luke!! I did learn something. ..How to feather a throttle when donin bad ass burn-outs!!
Cheers brother! lol
Keep it going.
Mac
Again awesome video you deserve more subscribers
Love the hot rodin at the end!!!
Man I'm wish i had friends like you guys
When the O-ring does that, a drop of oil on your finger, roll it around the O-ring, that'll usually last long enough to get you home. Brake fluid works in a pinch too.
And also people before installing a new needle/seat, put a drop of oil on the O ring so it doesn’t tear cause a new one is tight and dry and sometimes difficult to turn.
Love the video, man. I’m learning a bit more about mechanics on every video.
A question; I know you do a lot of work on Holley and Edelbrock carbs, do you have any videos of working on Rochester carbs, or any videos of how to take apart any type of carb? I’m trying to figure that out at this point.
Similar situation on my Holley 4160. It's a fresh rebuilt carb on a 289 engine. Car is just now starting after years, starts okay and idles, but I noticed fuel pooling on the rear passenger side of intake manifold. So, it's a leaking after sitting situation. I just checked the secondary fuel bowl through the site plug. I shook the car. No fuel comes out at all, and I can see the fuel level is definitely below the lip of the site plug. When I first put the carb on the car and used a remote starter to get the fuel pumping, I checked those floats, and both bowls seemed perfect. Both only started seeping fuel once I shook the car. Now - the rear is definitely lower and won't shake fuel out. The front is still okay. I can see fuel on the secondary throttle plates also. Thoughts? Like I say, new rebuild with new gaskets, new needles and seat, new power valve, etc. I see a bit of gas on the linkage on that rear passenger side. One thing I did just do is tighten the screws which secure the bowl. I did this by one hand with a regular flat blade. I admit I don't have an inch pound torque wrench, so I tightened to the point you'd have to double fist it to tighten more.
Top tip, thanks for sharing!
I love your videos.please make more . Stay well
Great vid, mine is pouring it in but not flooding out the top. Thinking the non Holley parts were a waste of money.
Luke my 289 has a Holley 650. If I lean it out it gets rough. But if I leave it where it is it's smokes rich from exhaust. Float leaves are good.
It’s too big of a carb by a long shot, but given that scenario I have a crisp 3 dollar bill that says your timing is late.
A good way to get base timing is to reduce curb idle until you see no vacuum on the ported port (while your doing this you will have to increase initial mechanical timing by rotating the distributor)
When done, hook distributor vacuum advance to that ported port.
Most cars end up 8-18 initial and 28-36 total.
Good repair
Hey manLove your channel in this video help me diagnose at least one small problem. The O-ring on my needle and seat is worn also can I just replace the O-ring or the whole needle and seat? thanks man
I just did a small block Chevy rebuild with a brand new Brawler 4150 style Holley carb, and I was tooling with the both float levels based on what other people say to set them at, and now my front float is where I want it and my rear is like all the way down, the bowl is dry, and the adjustment screw does nothing, tried turning it a lot. What should I do?
Had the same priblem, tried needle and seat, check the float, set the fuel level....still flooded. Some days it was ok, but when it started flooding...at a stoplight, in traffic, or on the freeway...it would happen out of the blue sky, and quickly. But it was an older aftermarket mechanical fuel pump that randomly pushed hard enough to blow the needle open.
I actually just addressed that in a previous video!
Man wish I had a buddy like you
I have a 1966 olds starfire 455 with a holly 600 cfm carb nice carb
I bought a 1970 GMC pickup as a project (mainly cosmetic and electrical stuff). When I'm driving at full throttle, it'll make a click/pop noise and lose power for a split second and seem like it is somewhat bogged down. It is kind of a pain to start when it's cold. Does this sound like a carburetor issue or a fuel pump issue? I'm a rookie and using it as a "learn as you go" project lol.
It's always strange for me to see a place I'm familiar with on CZcams! I live close enough to the MV Fairgrounds in Davenport to be able to hear the Friday night races during the summer and sometimes the concerts during fair week.
I’m new in carburetor world , and I have a question 74 F250 360 my exhaust manifold on passenger side has 2 lil holes one is for choke but the other one I don’t know where goes, plus I can’t find a diagram for all the hoses any advice
Good to know. Thank you
Hi I have a 85 Camaro Z28 iroc with a 350 in it is Holley4 barrels carburetor I cleaned few weeks ago and star running badly after I cleaned with can't keep it run only staying running with my foot in the has paddle is soon I take my foot off the car dies what you recommend me Sr have a bless day !
I hope you got the Progressive Ignition Distributor and I hope you do a video on it :-) Your videos are great!!!
I have one for my supercharged galaxie that I need to wrap up the cooling system on!
had a 600 holley on a 390 do what you described . Always blamed the gas blend for problems . I don't think holley carb kit seals liked ethanol .
Dude, great burnouts
Have a Ford f100 with a 600 carb want to put the original 2 barrel carb back on .. do I need a adapter plate for 2 barrel.. thanks
Love that video
You know what sad down here in Florida if you need a pair of those needle and seats you have to go to two parts stores because they only keep one in stock
Hi I have a 85 Camaro Z28 iroc with a 350 in it with a Holley 4 barrels carburetor but can't keep it run die a soon I take my foot off the gas paddle was running good few weeks ago but I clean the carburetor and start die all the time I try cranking just run for a least 5 seconds and die just like that what u think I did wrong a what can you recommend me thanks have a bless day
All from a tiny pin I’m in the process of rebuilding my carburetor I’m frustrated but not giving up
I had the same issue with my double pump, just kept flooding and didn't want to idle below 1000 rpm. I picked up an edlebrock from a buddy that he didn't need amymore for 200 bucks. Fixed all the issues lol... 😂
Aw, Rotstang cameo at 2:07, I miss that thing!
I am installing a new carb, wish i lived near you.
I wished I lived in Iowa close to you guys but sadly, I live down in the deep South in Georgia
Mine was doing this same shit the other day, on a new reman holley. 5 psi with a regulator and gauge, fuel was just dripping out of the secondaries, out of nowhere, after running fine like the day I put the carb on. I was trying to get everything dialed in good and messing with the idle mix screws realized when I turned them all the way in it was still running.
This just recently happened to me, curb idle screw all the way out, mixture screws all the way in, running rich as a pig and idles fast. I just barely had the engine off and ignition on so the fuel pump was on. Noticed fuel was pouring into the engine. Few years back I had both front and rear brass floats sunk and full of gas. Looks like she still wants to have a fight.
Dear Luke if possible please answer my question.
If have been looking at your videos about carb setup but i am lost on a couple of things...
I set the transfer slots like you said and adjusted the acceleration pump and i screwd the idle mixtures 2 turns out just before start.
Acording to one of your video i need to set idle with the dizzy but how do i do that and set the idle mixture screws.
Must if first set mixture screws for highest vacuum and then backdown timing?? Or vice _versa...
And should i run ported or manifold vacuum??( i found that in some of your videos you said ported... And manifold vacuum can be used in certain situations but i would like to have a low idle
I have a 351c with a 600 holley 4150 thank you and keep up the awesome videos
Ps i set my pump cam to nr 2 Acording to your video is this the correct setting for what i want to achieve
Thanks again
It’s tricky to explain - everything is balance for sure. Usually on ported vacuum, you can run mechanical timing to about 12-18 degrees without having wayyy too much total timing.
The reason I run ported is because you still have that timing when you hit the throttle vs throwing it out the window with manifold - when you toe in, your vacuum will drop to where you are just on mechanical anyway.
So like I said, it’s a balance - with a pcv valve, I’d expect 1.5 turns out to be within the 14-12:1 afr ratio, whereas without a pcv, a carb is more likely correct at 3/4.
You can trim that further once driving - you will see what it likes.
But basically you set your transfer slots bat a square, then set your initial timing for your desired idle. If you get up to 16 degrees of timing initial, give the curb idle screw another 1/8th turn open and reassess.
This stuff is hard to put in words - it’s as much feel as it is procedural. The mix screws are definitely the feel part if you don’t have a wideband o2
Basically if it drops when you adjust it, it’s not what you want.
@@ThunderHead289 Hi Luke thank you so much for the information i tried what you said and it work perfectly
You were exactly right with the 1.5 turns out when using a pcv valve
I can not take the car out on the road since i my country we have extreme lockdown protocols, police and Army are on the streets making sure nobody is outside unnecessarily. Cant wait to drive and see what she does on the road
Thanks agian for all the advice and being so interactive with your viewers
Keep up the good video's
Must be nice to be tall. Stand 3 feet away from the fender to adjust the carb and not worry about scratching any thing. 😉. I need a 5 gallon bucket and a sleeping bag. The sleeping bag so I don’t scratch the fender. And so I can take a nap before the climb back down.
Had the screws on my metering plate come totally lose and it was flooding the bowls chased that dam problem for a long time
Bad needle & seat O-rings are a very common problem causing fuel by-passing the needle and seat and flooding the engine. I wonder how many carbs have been tossed by folks who don't know these basics. Remember, Holley has been around for over 100 years. They are not hard to maintain if you take the time to learn about and look after them. Good luck!
Yeah yeah I know ive got a fake stang 2011 302 manual, couldnt do a stationary burnout for anything till i put in a one piece driveshaft, the factory two piece was not getting it, now i can smoke em sitting still, gotta find somewhere to do donoughts now
So i tryed going to ported vac like you said, timing ended up set at 2° adv, still peaded very bad, blown head gasket bad.
My guess is for your light cars that spend little time at low rpm, full load, wot, the more timing surner, is good.
For my truck, that sees a lot of towing wot at low rpm undoor load, its too much timing to surn.
It’s not JUST using ported vacuum - this disappoints me that it seems to be a lot of folks takeaway.
You need to advance your initial mechanical timing - to 10-18. Your engine will tell you what it likes.
The whole point of this so that when you crack the throttle you HAVE timing!
@@ThunderHead289 my initial timing was at 2° adv, i could not back the initial timing off enhught to make it stop peading.
And yes at idle there was no vac on the port.
Giving it more timing, say 10 to 18, made it pead at idle.
My bronco is running ported timing and runs very well, my truck does not want more timing undoor load.
oldreliable303 Justin Scott something isn’t right.
You aren’t making enough cylinder pressure at idle with the throttle blades closed to detonate, and definitely not to spark knock. I assume you are trying to say pinging.
Why do you think it’s pinging?
@@ThunderHead289 i am trying spell pinging, i cant spell to save my life.
I think too much timing, the 300 l6 only likes about 6° to 8° initial, and in a ford manule, its says never to run ported vac. these 300 l6 are ntories for pinging, it does not want more timing sooner, the total timing on this motor is only about 18°
That being said, my 400m in my bronco runs great with ported vac. With 12° initial, and about 28° total.
@@oldreliable303
I had a 65 I6 300. It liked 14 initial and 30 total.
Please help me. Im so so so confused.
My Fiat 128 Rally 1300 1974 if not driving it idle okay till radiator fan goes on. No problem.
Just when i drive and enjin begin get some heat it just cut of and dont want to start again. Have to wait to cool off. Then drive home and let it stand still and idle till radiator fan goes on. NO PROBS. Just when i drive so 1km it cut off again and have to wait car to cool down again.
It give no probs if stand still and idle. Just when i drive and enjin is heat up.
Will be realy happy if someone can help me please!
Thanks so much.
So, im not sure if you will read this, but i have a holley 2300 (2bbl) on a 292 y block, in a 1957 Fairlane 500, constantly floods, especially after the first drive around.
Float tang is bent such that float sits too high
@@ThunderHead289 thank you, ive been trying to figure it out. It also wont idle low either.
@@ThunderHead289 i figured it out... the needle and seat had something wrong with it and it wasn't sealing around the o ring, causing it to flood out
What ever happened to that rotstang, is it just sitting on some property somewhere, unloved, or did you sell/scrap it?
The poor rotstang - the torque boxes actually completely tore out of the car one day and she buckled.
I parted her out so a ton of her was reused, cut the nose off to mount on the wall, and scrapped the shell. Only thing that didn’t get saved was the glass. No one wanted it
i have a holley 600 cfm #80457-2. it runs good one day and the next day it fills the cylinders with fuel. what would be your idea to look for? i am not a carb man at all. thanks, Bill.
Check the o ring hes talking about
i had it rebuilt. runs great. thanks.
What would cause one to flood after shut off ( floats set properly) have to hold pedel to the floor to restart ?
A neelde and seat having junk on it not stopping fuel flow or a blown o ring on the needle and seat assbly
@ThunderHead289 ok I replaced them both. Still giving me the bleed after shut off ( carb smoking and foot to floor unless it sets for a few ) pulling my hair out that I don't have with this one sir. Thanks man
So I think that the seals in my edlebrock are bad it’s like a 7 year old carb and does a lot of sitting when I went to start it today it started but quickly started flooding now it’s hard to start and it will only run when I’m on the gas from inspection the carb is leaking onto the intake and fuel was shooting out the headers could it be seals or what the fuel pump is the same age as the carb and it never was drove to much
It sounds like it has trash in the needle and seat assembly 👍
No correctly regulating fuel in the bowls
ThunderHead289 ok thanks
I have a sbc 350 and where would my distributor vacuum line go on a edelbrock 1406?
I personally run ported vacuum and more mechanical initial timing. Like 12-18 degrees depending on the vehicle. The ported port is located on the passenger side of an Edelbrock I believe - the higher of the two smaller vacuum ports.
@@ThunderHead289 thank you for the reply. Timing is set at 12 degrees at idle.
Enjoy all updates on the Galaxie!
Holley 750 carb with vacuum secondary. My question is its leeking fuel from the secondary onto the intake runs fine. It was parked sense October outside . dose it need to be rebuilt or just need fuel to sit in it to make the gasket swell to seal.
Jacob
Have you tried tightening the secondary float bowl screws?
First thing i tryed ther all snug . my coworker says for the cost of a rebuild just to rebuild it . so might have to do that im hoping they will stop leeking on there own because the carb is set up really nice and iv never set up or rebuild one yet
@@possessedjake13
I have that same carb. I seem to remember mine had little fiber washers under the head of each of the bowl screws. Maybe one of them?
Could be the bowl gasket has dried out as you were wondering. There is the float adjustment bolt up on top or maybe the fuel line fitting where it connects to the bowl.
I used mine for close to 40 years on two different cars.
Great carb.
Good luck with it!
It appears to be leeking from the bowl gasket but it has started to leek from the bottom of the front bowl as well now and the fuel rail. Its a used carb i picked up 5 years ago when i got this car running. My neighbor set the carb up for me then. He has help alot with my car.
@@possessedjake13
You could pickup a rebuild kit and just change the gaskets that seem to be leaking if you're not crazy about doing a complete rebuild. Then save the rest of the kit for future use. I rebuilt mine once over the years and I didn't find it difficult. Nice thing about Holleys is that they are modular. You can take off the front bowl and metering block and change your gaskets and power valve if you think you need to. Then do the rear bowl. I've never had the gasket between the main body and the base leak but if it's in the kit (it used to be) then why not change it too.
I use short pieces of guitar strings ( high E) to poke through the air bleed holes to clean them out. Seems to work well.
It can look a little intimidating at first but take your time sitting at a clean work bench and you'll be surprised at how difficult it isn't.
👍
After that toilet paper video, I'm not surprised your bowls are overflowing.
Would have been NICE to film "how" you removed the Needle & Seat Valve instead of just showing it once iit had been removed
It's the Galaxyeeyee
dont be dissing four eyes cuz
The jam nut in the air cleaner stud makes me cringe. I broke a piston in half in my 302, 65 mustang because of a nut like that.
I tack weld the nut to the stud.
Lol... Do a burnout! Shout to you, bro !!
Hop in like the dukes of hazzard luke!! Lol
Back in 1999 I had a Holley carb and this problem and I ended up selling it because CZcams and thunderhead wasn't around
Oh, I was around - but at 5 years old I wouldn’t have been very helpful!
👍
Heard of my summer car?
Howdy from pa. I'm working on a 1950 Ford f1 with a stiffened fear suspension with a 283 small block in it that was owned by a moonshine making corn farmer
hey, you know that dominator was very rare?
The mustang?
@@ThunderHead289 yes. the dominator came in stages, many had factory mods. look up the 1984 gt 350 dominatior, They are extremely rare and extremely sought after by collectors
Mine was extremely ruined before I ever got it - it was actually bucked from a rear end collision.
I gave her one last run at the sun before she was no more. Daily drove it and hooned it for 18k miles until the body fully split from rust underneath. Torque box was laying on the ground
@@ThunderHead289 Thats a shame, but atleast you can say you drove, well actually drove a dominator the way it was meant to be driven
Killer donuts
Luckily there was a medic on stand by for Luke 😂. Look at 6:05
Annoying when you know theres something wrong but its not a big enough issue to recognize.
Good video but what's up with all the fords? Lol
What do you mean “what’s up with all the fords”?
The Windsor series ford is the most well rounded v8 ever designed.
Power, fuel economy, durability, and a huge aftermarket support.
Chevy liked it so much, they copied it for the LS - right down to the firing order.
@@ThunderHead289 just kidding
the 8th one to comment
First!!
o rings on them are not good!! ran into that alot . must be cheap chineesium garbage !!
Love the video, man. I’m learning a bit more about mechanics on every video.
A question; I know you do a lot of work on Holley and Edelbrock carbs, do you have any videos of working on Rochester carbs, or any videos of how to take apart any type of carb? I’m trying to figure that out at this point.