How to rebuild a JetSki engine part 1
Vložit
- čas přidán 27. 04. 2021
- 2004 Yamaha XLT1200 engine rebuild (Part 1)
Part one of a 3 part series showcasing the start to finish of this engine rebuild.
I purchased the ski as a project to vide and document on my channel for other to use as a tool to complete their own projects. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Great work Michael.
Good work
Absolutely the right call pulling that engine. Your powervalves didnt have waveeater clips. I bet it dropped the oil line on that cylinder, most likely the crank bearing is shot as well.
Hello, thank you for answering and so quickly, I didn't expect it😅. The engine turns over as if trying to start but I have checked and there is no spark to the spark plugs. I had another question but I have to send a photo to explain since I don't know the technical name, I'm new to this sorry
How did you get the bolts covered by the protruding part of the muffler off? The two bolts at 5:26 at the top. One of them is still in but unscrewed
I loosened them enough to be able to lift of the head, it would be easy to remove the muffler/exhaust from the beginning however I thought doing it this was would be a little different. Especially if there was not so much damage
Hello, good afternoon, greetings from Spain and congratulations on your video, it is very helpful. I have a problem with my recently purchased Yamaha gp1300 r that the spark plugs do not spark. Could you please guide me on what I should look at. I had a previous SE DOO and after a thousand tests it turned out to be the crankshaft sensor, but at Yamaha I don't know if it could be for another reason. They have recommended that I look at the accelerator sensor but I don't know what the fault could be. I will be very grateful in any case.
Hi, will the ski run at all? Or it won’t even start? Thanks for you lovely comment
I have a 300x, 1500 motor that calls for 195ibs of torque on the crankshaft bolt. Do you think I'll damage the pistons/rods if I lock up the motor with rope in the cylinder when torquing that bolt?
Hi Will, that’s a lot of torque. Is that OEM specification? Your correct in you worry, I would not like to be pulling that hard and potentially transpose all of the pressure onto a valve.
Have you looked into locking up the crankshaft? Perhaps with a bar on the output shaft being held with a vice?
@@1MichaelJones Yeah, that's the spec on that output shaft bolt (195lbs). The coupler to shaft is about the same. I'm not going to take the chance with locking up the piston using string. I appreciate your input. No way to hold the other end of that crank. I'll let you know what I come up with. Thanks again Mr. Jones.
@@gasousman let me know what you come up with. Do you have the service manual? They often have notes on pages which explain how to hold something whilst torquing down.
I remember seeing a 300 rebuild on here, you might be able to find a video of the specifically.
Hi Michael
I have a Yamaha 4 stroke 1800 VX Jet ski that I am going to rebuild the engine. I watched your three videos and found them very good as I am a novice at this type of thing. I saw that you got your parts from SBT. Do you recommend them and top class supplier parts supplier.
Hi John, I highly recommend them.
If you can, stay away from eBay parts when rebuilding.
@@1MichaelJones Thanks for that great advice. I will stay away from Ebay.
Hi Michael, thanks for the SBT recommendation. I've just purchased a new engine from them So far they have been great to deal with.
@@johnrichardson3710 great to hear! Quality is always worth the effort!!
How in the world did you remove those two exhaust studs?
What time stamp in the video?
@@1MichaelJones at about 5:11, it's the studs that gold the two black exhaust mounts which I believe are to pull the engine.
@@vassilyknigge850Did you figure out how to get them off? I really dont want to take off the muffler
There are four Factory flaws on the XL tease you must fix all of them or it will just grenade again I've been working on to stroke jet skis for over 20 years don't build that motor without fixing everything that was wrong at the factory cuz you will just be throwing money down a pit
What are the four factory flaws? Looking at giving my 98 xl1200 a freshen up. Thanks
@@MrMattytempzz one is the Rave valves you must upgrade to the lever links if you don't the little pins vibrate out and drop the Rave valves down into the motor another one is on top of the gas tank if you don't have the plastic top on the feedback Alves that go down into the paint then you must epoxy or put new O-rings on the little aluminum arms they go down into the tank because they leak air and create and lean condition another one is the factory oil lines they get hard and Brake also they are not fastened well to the carburetors so you must upgraded change these the other one is the pump seals in the jet pump you must put a seal kit otherwise eventually if not soon it will cavitate and cause problems also use Factory Mikuni kits if you rebuild your carburetors and the book calls to set the Popoff pressure at 70 lb you can set it at 55 to 60 and it actually runs better
@@shannonwilliams601 thanks for the info. I think the rave valves will be fine. I’ll check the tank out to make sure all the o rings are sweet. I’ve been told oil lines have been replaced but I better check those aswell, easier to just replace all. How do I change the pressure to 55-60? Thanks
@@MrMattytempzz 98 has the 65u non power valve 1200. It’s a solid engine
I don't care for the "I negotiated a price with him." I've never understood why people are so afraid to tell people what they paid for something. What's the big secret?
dude im the same way. its like talking money Is taboo for some reason
I don't get that either. What's the point? Other than maybe if he wants to sell it he doesn't want what he paid for it out there
it better to get a rebuilt engine then you buy a single parts