Unboxing and Testing the New "Boar Box" from Gold Hog!
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- The people at Gold Hog, asked me to help test their new machine, the "Boar Box" before it's release this fall. They asked me to give them feedback on anything that they might need to refine before the release. It was very well designed and well made, however I had some suggestions. Check out the new machine, the "Boar Box" from Gold Hog.
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This video is produced by Dan Hurd, Prospector, Miner, Teacher and CZcamsr, as part of his CZcams channel based on educational videos about gold mining, gold panning, prospecting, rock hounding, and mineral collecting.
#goldpanning #thefinders #findinggold
Engineers _LOVE_ unbiased feedback. I'm sure the company was disappointed with the first review, but they sent you this development unit for exactly the kind of feedback they need. Not a sugared up praise of something because they're a sponsor. Having real prospectors review with critical feedback is what they want so they can produce a great product from the beginning. You're doing them an invaluable service, so I hope they take the suggestions to heart.
Amen on that! Many times (unfortunately) people gave their opinions based on not wanting to hurt feelings. As a past owner of 5 businesses, I want the actual truth or else I'll have to close my doors wondering where my customers went.
Show me the engineer degree or previous engineering jobs the person who designed this had. I'm just saying it like I see it.
@@TheDSP1970 It's a prototype. I'd suggest waiting until Dan reviews the final product.
@@TheDSP1970@olepigeon agreed engineers love unbiased feedback lolololol
it's a good idea though, a gold cube remix thats more of a rectangular prism, better to store away for the hobbyist... but yeah I totally agree that an engineer did not design this. As an apprentice machinist and industrial mechanic I critique the proverbial they and their choices all the time. And the vibe is more like "I got an idea", and the constraints were make a gold cube but more compact and my brand.
i own their extended raptor flare 2.0 and i can tell you without a doubt they improve constantly.
I must say I respect a company that wants honest feedback and tries to actually improve their products they deliver to their customers.
Doc, at Gold Hawg, is the best!
He answers pretty much all questions, sent in, himself! And he is, himself, also a gold prospector! His instructional videos on how to set up so you can catch the most gold you can, are phenomenal!
I think those legs with bends were intended to be facing forwards and backwards rather than out to the sides. I think there are too many things that aren't great with the machine, a lot of annoying little things that need looked at. Not very sure you need the wing nuts holding down the mats. Don't think it's something I would buy, not in its present form anyway. Sorry if I appear negative, that's not my intention, just saying what I reckon..
yup user error
No one cares
I was gonna mention the same thing .. I think the legs were installed backwards
I studied over 3years to purchase a sluce box, I pick Keene engineering product specially A52S.
Can’t go wrong with a Keen anything really I run a 4 inch dredge with air and love it ...
Wow, that company is lucky and wise to send you the proto-type as you had intricate and useful feed-back !!
Well you would Too if you got a Sponsorship deal Things are always better free
It's free advertising and normally they would have to pay testers to try it out. He's not lucky he's doing there job
A idea came to mind.. For the front and back plate. Put a hinge at the bottom with just 2 wing nuts at the top to hold it closed. If the hinges are slightly (very slightly) spring loaded they could act as platform for holding the pans for cleaning out the mats also.
I was thinking along the same lines, but I was thinking a stainless steel piano hinge along the side with spring loaded clasps or latches on the other side. Wingnuts and bolts are a failure pount
@@ringersprospectingjournal7085 I like the idea of hinges and spring clasps, but I think the hinges should be slip joint hinges so the plates can be removed.
I think some magnets could close the "Doors" instead of the endless wingnuts. I like the piano hinge idea!
@@joaniemckinney970 I was thinking magnets to hold the plates with the riffles in. So you don't have to reach your hands in to tighten them.
@@joaniemckinney970 A lot of material is magnetic. Magnets anywhere close to that material would soon be gunked up. In principal its a great idea, in practice probably more a pain to deal with, and once magnetic material gets there it will never be fully 'clean' again.
One thing I saw was if you turn the legs around where the offset is on the outside, it looks like a bucket would fit underneath without having to pick it up.
Hey Dan, the reason for 2 different leg styles,
you can use the straight legs on a solid surface like concrete.
And the curved legs with the tabs on the bottom are for softer grounds like sand.. the tabs will help stop the legs from sinking in the sands and becoming un-level when the tailing water starts erosion
An idea came to mind : epoxy small magnets to put loose wing nuts on so you dont loose them in the gravel 👍 you can have my idea. Lol
I’ve seen generally large CZcamsrs put a lot less into videos like this for a lot more $$$. You go above and beyond. The companies you associate with have a lot less and get a lot more. All I’m saying is you deserve more than I assume you receive. I’m most likely panning a non gold bearing stream consistently, but I love it all the same because of videos like yours
Completely agree! A news item popped up on my phone one day. There was a "short" next in line and it was Dan Hurd! Lucky me! My very first subscription and I've watched everything he has posted! I'm living life- full of gold- like people like Dan!
Yes get rid of the wing nuts because you know that you’re going to drop and lose them out in the field. Have some type of clip pen hanging on a tiny little table so you can’t lose them. 👍👍👍
Mixing steel and alloy causes rust at the interface.
Nickel plated steel is also prone to corrosion.
Rivnuts would be good to hold the plates on!
It is called electrolysis
Can I make a suggestion Dan that they put some kind of level sight piece built on to the unit
+1 on this idea too. You can dial it in at home on flat surface, and then be sure it's right when you in the field by checking the levels.
A smaller hole punch plate as an accessory would be nice. Most of us are never going to see a 1/2" nugget in our mining adventures, but if you do regularly find 1/2" nuggets I am available for adoption.
And like your dad said, rivet nuts or better yet rivet studs would be the way to go for making captured fasteners that don't fall out when you put it together. I'm sure Doc is already headed that direction.
Does not matter the hole size, it will still get fouled up, just with smaller stones. It is always going to be an issue. The only way to avoid it is to classify and only use material that is smaller than the hole, which will only need catch the odd larger stone that got through the classifying process.
Would a slotted punch plate not be better or maybe they could provide the unit with one of each. Different materials need different solutions.
The feet can have a swivel to accommodate the difference in ground surfaces.
Use eyebolts instead of wing nuts and thread the plate so there is the bolts don't fall out and thread the grizzly for the eyebolts to secure to. Just some thoughts.
I assume you can loosen the bolts that secure the tops of the legs, allowing the legs to slide all the way up the sides of the unit, neatly stowing them in place for storage or transportation. (Extra points for my run-on sentence.)
Not just because Mike Pung is a friend, but a Gold Cube is simple and absolutely effective. Toss a trommel on it and chew through dirt.
This is a lot cheaper though, and looks like you could do more with it
@@gotdangelectric5599
a gold cube is $500.00. I don't see the "more".
He solved nothing making this out of metal, besides putting his mats in it & making stuff for the sake of making stuff & complicating it. Prove me wrong, what did he overwhelmingly improve?
@@TheDSP1970
I am not arguing for this. I wouldn't develop something you can already get.
P.S. I have a 10 inch Dream Mat it it is worth the money. I need to get more for playing with different sluices.
@@jk-76 I was agreeing with you, yes, another Damascus knife builder we do not need, or do we?
The bolt / wingnut holding the plates together. You suggested that the bolt be welded on, that leaves the bolts sticking out during transport. If on the other hand the nut is the one welded on and the bolt with a winged head is the removable part, that gets rid of the protrusions when transporting, while still keeping the winged aspect of the system for ease of fastening.
10years ago goldhog has a unit it calls "the gold hog highbanker", the boar looks like the little brother of the unit ^^
Yes, I was thinking the exact same thing!! I remember that much bigger old zig-zag highbanker from Gold Hog!!
Have a wide shallow plastic hopper to go on the top with legs to direct the material straight down into the plate, enough of a gap so you can clean out the rocks.
Actually looks good. I think the main purpose of this unit is to be able to attach it to a backpack fairly easily, which you can't do with the gold cube. Your assertions with with product are Spot on. I can't wait to see the finished product with your review. If I could say anything about it, is that if it was somehow foldable and easier to backpack into a location, it would be priceless.
I have a suggestion that might help the stability of the machine in the field especially on uneven ground. You could use a carabiner to clip a length of cordage, such as 550 paracord, to the eye bolts used to hold the legs in place and run the cordage to stakes pounded into the ground. That would prevent any accidental tipping over of the Boar Box. I would use the carabiners to attach the cordage to the eye bolts simply because it would make it easier to remove it to allow for adjusting the length of the legs if necessary and for storing the cord and stakes when transporting. Just a thought, I don't know if you would need to do it or if it would actually be useful but then I don't have the ability to field test the box like you do. Would like to know your thoughts on the idea however.
I like the idea. I'd go with tent cord adjusting "lugs" rather than carabiners. I think it definitely nneds additional stability especially if you're going to work it hard.
Dan, I think the formed legs were intended to go straight down. That's why the U brackets are designed to rotate. If the legs go straight down then the foot would be flat. Despite that I like your idea of rounding the feet.
I'd weld a nut onto the U bracket and skip tapping it. There;s quite a few examples commercially available. You can get a lot more thread that way than tapping the bracket
Dan, I've had a lot of experienced engineers ask why you can't weld aluminum parts to steel.
All in all I like it
Dan, how long does a battery last? And don't take the battery out of your truck down to the river and then try to start your truck with a dead battery.
I think it would be cool if they shipped the machine into a tub that can double as the catch tub/water reservoir
one that could fit the whole kit in it for transport and storage.
They could redesign the legs to attach the box to the top of the tub instead of sitting in the bottom. No way the thing could tip over once you put it together.
@@Domarnett That is another great idea! Have a storage/water tub fir easy use and portability. The only problem is keeping it light to carry... a plastic tub may not last too long. That's why I asked Dan about weight. I look at weight because I'm disabled with a major back injury.
@@susanturcotte3176 they could always use one of those totes that has the extending handle on wheels!
Complete wash plant, pump, battery, and carrying tote that doubles as the water reservoir/catch basin,,, all in one complete package!
I'd buy it!
@@ncoutdooradventures6148 I would buy it, too! All in one unit. Would be easy (except for very steep inclines, deep sand and thick foliage).
More then 3years of very careful anyalization. I have purchased Keene engineering products specially A52S. It is SOOOOO GOOD in every which ways such as easy recovery of the gold, quality, easy to use, upgradeability, compactness and much much more..... GO WITH KEENE !!!!!!
The wing nuts must be steel so that a magnet can retrieve them when they are inevitably dropped
I feel like it needs to be twice as big all around so you can use a full-sized shovel to process more material.
I think that defeats the whole purpose. It seems like it was designed to be something you can strap on your back and use in tight quarters and with limited water. And its perfect for that.
I would guess this is more oriented towards prospecting or running small amounts of material than being used as a small scale wash plant.
Paint those wingnuts bright red. Use a piece of small slotted pipe section to tighten/loosen those wingnuts and save the fingers. Another two levels of wash plate on top before it get dumped. Great video Dan and Dad!
Spring clips on front and back so quick access no wing nuts ( they get lost out in the bush).Mats slide into grove to hold them again no wing nut very fast clean up. Pretty exciting machine.
Thinking about those square feet, because you can change the angle, maybe something like rifle/machine gun bipod feet where they're slightly convex sleds. They obviously don't need to be grippy, just stable enough to be in a tub.
Oh dope a new box. I love seeing the new gear tests.
And a scathing honest review is better than a dishonest neutral review.
Also the legs seem like they are supposed to be facing the other direction.
Yes I felt like the legs needed to be turned 1/4 degree facing outward front and back not to the sides.
Would make a wider stance.
BUT the leg bends need to go at the top to accept a bucket.
I'd say make it wider then eight inches but maybe there was a reason to narrow it up.
A slick plate on top of the punch plate might help in the loss of material that runs off
This won't work as a river sluice without power unless you bucket water like that other wizard in Wisconsin.
Five mats to pull instead of one or two???
Who thought that was a good idea?
Punch plate holes too big...the laser cut Freddie Dodge teardrops would work better?
Jury is still out in this one.
I understand the idea of it being a prototype, but can we talk about those welds on the offset legs? I think they need to find someone who can tig a little cleaner than that, or if they are using a mig aluminum process, that is still an unsat looking product.
Also, adjusting the leg length can be just as efficient as adjusting the leg angle to obtain a level unit.
Instead of open ports, you can add slots to slide in a plexiglass port window to ease any splash out.
Lots of areas for mechanical and aesthetic improvement, but overall, it seems like a solid piece of equipment.
Very informative. Seems like a solid product with exception to some minor inconvenience that could be fixed.
Dan, you nailed it. Wider legs, longer and steeper classifier with turned up edges at the end. Someone mentioned hinges with latches on the panels and I think slotted holes instead of round might be better. No bolts holding the mats down would make clean up easier and less hardware to lose.
Loved this - a giant experiment and we get to watch. Love being on the receiving end of your expertise and Gold Hog's product development. Neat!
I echo that! What old folks grew up doing: using your imagination. NOT a battery operated, remote controlled, makes-all-the-noises-for-you, toy!
I worked a home made system like this 30 years ago. My feed in was longer and had 2 basic riffle bars in the top to trap bigger stuff. Rest was a combination of timber riffles with hessian underneath. Then a miners moss layer and a fine riffle bed at the bottom. Each layer had a screen to reduce particle size. Was about 85% efficient which given that it was all timber and scrap metal was pretty good. Only had to pan the fine tailings to check I wasn't missing too much flour gold. Tailings were about 20% of original material through and I was dealing with heavy clay like material.
What i like about this Gold Hog is it all come's apart , makes for less space used and Ezzy transport
:) . SKK .
Dan Hurd is as entertaining to watch as I remember Bill Nye being as a kid. Totally different but I absolutely love the educational entertainment. Thanks Dan!
bill nye actually does some more adult science shows if i remember correctly but i agree with you
That's our man, Dan the gold pan man.👍
You tell it like it is and do not hold back. I like that. Its part of why I watch your videos.
Instead of bolts with wing nuts. How about studs that are hook style with different holes to change the angle and for easy cleaning of the round rocks
Nice first run Dan, and family! With needed modifications noted.
DESIGN change: add a plate at the bottom that can be screwed on to divert flow of tailings.. like wash plants have sluice boxes that can be added ... I mean it would add another layer use
Get rid of the wingnuts and use spring clasps. Maybe a hinged door?
There's going to be electrolysis between the nuts, bolts, leg brackets and aluminum eventually, even if they use stainless steel. It's going to corrode the aluminum at some point unless they create a barrier between the 2 metals.
I think it might be better for the feet of the legs to be separated with different options. It looks like it could blow over in decent wind or if you shoveled bit too much material. If you had a leg with a hole or slot for a ground spike you prevent that. Or a wider plate you could put a rock on. Also, it might be a nice optional item to have a wider 3 sided funnel that could slip on top. It seems great for pouring/scooping from a bucket but if you wanted to shovel in it might not be as forgiving. I know that is not ideal use for it, but as a option it might expand it from a more limited machine or if they make a larger version. Last suggestion, replace the front wing nuts with a metal latch hook, you do not want to be losing bolts or wingnuts. Plus it would be a quicker and easier process to open.
I thought it looked easy to knock over. But at the same time, what does it weigh as is? I asked Dan above. A fix to keep it from toppling over must not add too much to the weight and portability.
About the top grate: Suggest they just rivet a bracket to the rear plate and you just hang the grate on it.
About the front plate mounting: Ask them to either install threaded rivets with a gasket between the main structure and the plate.
About the tailings outlet: Ask them to install a short rubber matt, just to control the water and reduce splashing.
One more suggestion add a couple of 12Vdc Vibrators one on each side. This is actually something anyone could modify as a DIY project. This machine looks like it would be a great candidate for a trommel . Cast off washed gravel, dropping rest into a funneled top of machine. Good Addons for higher profitability for GoldHog.
They should have slotted the tray bolts instead of the way it is currently designed. That way you can loosen the wing nuts for each tray without taking each nut completely out for cleanups. Same for the front cover. Just some design thoughts
I'm not sure if someone else covered this but my first thought with getting the bucket under the unit is to turn the legs 1/4 turn. That would give stability front to back, and maybe open up the space between the legs for the bucket to slip through. And I agree with others who say the "feet" are that way for uneven surfaces.
Would it not be better to have the mats rest on a V-shape over a bar, instead of the nuts through them?
The bolts are better for transport, but it shouldn't be hard to dismount the front and back and just put the mats in before using. It would increase it's efficiency and make it much easier to take the mats out and in to recover the gold.
the long offset legs with a round disc would be great for all ground, since your never on cement, and the legs angled out in forward or back , nice idea... straight small leggs great for small low bucket , like backpack in . Grizly could be longer on both sides and length
The top punch plate should just drop in. Not held by wingnuts at all. Because it plugs so easy, would be much better to lift it out give it a tap on something and reinsert. No fussing with plugged rocks, quick and easy!
I love gold hog products! And I understand this a prototype.. but it misses the mark for the advanced prospecter. I hope Gold Hog never stops trying to make a better mouse trap. Anyone that has been in the field knows that nuts- bolts and wing nuts are a pain! And if you have them in your process you should paint them. If this is another cons clean up prototype I have three already!
Thanks for the video Dan.
Nuts (I try to use Stainless Nyloc ones), bolts washers and such just need to be very carefully handled. Having said that I always have a medium sized, twist cap, 'spare stuff' container' that I always carry extras in. WELL worth the bother and always there when butterflies steal "THE" most important nut, washer or bolt. Not only that but you are a real hero if someone else just lost THEIR most important fastener. Also a good place to store your Neo magnet, too.
what a great review of a prototype. Weld every bolt in, then this will be great. I wish I could gold pan in the UK legally, if I could, I would love this as a hobbiest.
Not too bad for a prototype looking forward to seeing more on this five stars sir
Oh wow I used to live right down the road from there and had a couple of friends and old German lady named Aggie and I'm well acquainted with that area. Haven't been up there for a couple decades I'd love to visit plus my Canadian Uncle turned a hundred years old. Really enjoy your multiple locations and showing all the different potential sites
Stotts on the wash plate instead of round holes, and more length on the spillway.
@Dan Hurd
2 easy fixes...
Use 1/4 inch rat wire on top of the grizzly. Cut it so it hooks over the back edge, and is long enough to hang out 6 inches in front..
Instead of wing nuts that need to be fully removed, use the wing nut/bolts, but make the bolts with(rounded T heads) pivot like a hinge out of a sideways slot in the face plates.. This way, the wing nut never need to be removed from the bolts...just loosened...
As a prior Boy Scout, you are doing a great thing for so many people by keeping that place nice! For every one hour of work you put in there I'm sure there are over 50 hours of enjoyment :)
I have a gold cube four tray and have 100% confidence that it will catch all the gold, so their basic concept of the Boar Box will have a high recovery rate but there are some issues with the design.
All the wing nuts, small viewing windows and stand are things they may want to think about changing.
Maybe a redesign making it stackable in sections eliminating a lot of those wing nuts.
Making it stackable would eliminate the small viewing window problem.
My gold cube the tailings come out the front making it way easier to set it up with a totes and recirculating a little more water than a bucket stuck under it.
!!!! Gold Hog/ Dan:
-Pivoting foot would be best to adapt to various ground.
-Also, have the legs come out at a 45deg angle (from the corners of the cabinet) and put the bend up at the top of the leg. Could even make them from round bar, maybe. And give them more length at that end for adapting to off-set terrain. This will give a bigger footprint to the base, making it more stable.
-With the legs like that, attach the foot pads via a pivot ball so they can really adapt to all types of terrain surfaces.
-And a round foot would be better. (the square corners are apt to get bent/caught on stuff) And add some rubber(or make available as an accessory) foot pads.
- Panels could be mounted with button head studs and keyholes in the panel sheet.
- To hold the mat trays in place, perhaps plain pins with with holes and a cotter pin instead of bolts and wingnuts. Faster assembly and way less tedious than doing up are those wing nuts.
2 hooks coming off the Grizzly going through the back wall to secure the Grizzly in place will also allow for fast clearing of the holes. In and out quick. Lose the screws use two slotted hook holes.
To many parts and pieces for my liking. Thank you for sharing Dan
That "bad latin makes carp die" shirt just cracked me up. Haven't laughed like that in a bit!
Please please please do more of these if you can
Very nice Dan, thanks for not waiting & releasing the video. I had some improvement ideas that I sent directly to Doc's team. Love an honest review. Thanx 👍
They should add a way to check for plumb so that when your setting it up you get the whole unit as directly vertical as possible so that all the internal angled parts are at their prescribed angle relative to gravity so they have the proper water flow rate and they can perform their best at separating gold. I would recommend a simple plumb bob on the side. There could be a little tab sticking out at the top and bottom with an X accross the bottom and the string of the bob stuck through a hole directly above the center of the X and the string knotted to hold it. The bob then will only line up with the X if the whole thing is perfectly vertical. 2 spirit level's on sides that share a vertical edge would do the same thing but with less accuracy.
Dan I enjoy viewing what you and your family share as ya chase the Gold shiny. Love the scenery and wether its no shiny or if gold is found its reality i shall still watch. I hope you include portable work table once out in the field , as it could prolong work endurance for certain duties. Best wishes.
Heck of a way to collect lead for remoulding bullets 👍
Dan as I watching this I got the feeling that this setup would be best suited for sandy beach prospecting like they do in parts of Alaska
Also on Lake Superior!
Some quick release push button style pins or a captured tooless thumb screw for the matts, would negate opening the holes any bigger.
Also on the front panels, instead of six wingnuts/fastening points, have the side panels punched with rectangular slots on the smaller side of the bent 90°,and have tabs presses out in the front panels that the slots will receive like an old computer case door and only need one retaining fastener to hold in place. Will make set up and take down, not to mention manufacturing much more effecient and cheaper
When there's more money to be made in prospecting equipment than prospecting.
Labyrinthine sluice is all it is. Great for drier locations like mine.
Maybe a ball joint on the feet that can be tightened on site?
Ditch the bolts on the grizzly and put hooks. No threads to foul.
Aluminum impact surfaces will need to be shielded with teflon sheets.
A double plate with offset holes will make an easy oval and stops round rocks from getting too stuck.
Those are a bit big too.
If you make bigger diameter bolts with corser threads you have fewer turns to move.
Get rid of as many nuts as possible. Interlocking panels (slot to tab) works wonders.
As for the legs , yes off set near the top so you could place a bucket also swivel round pads for the feet so they can adjust themselves to the uneven ground
What also comes to mind is some kind of chute at the lower end so the spread of drops into the tailing bucket is not so wide.
Wow, what a lesson!! Only thing I wondered, was bubbles on that matt, did you brush off the bubbles?
A small flat rubber washer on the inside
Of the wing nut bolt will
Help hold bolts in place. Making it easier
And Faster, and reduce chances of losing a piece.
On the off-set legs i'd say bend the corners on the feet down like cleats & the main screws that hold the face on be spot welded & the ones near the shelves mover at least a inch from face plate bolts !
They should make an add on. That is the last shoot that funnels the water back into a bucket. Then you can put a filter on the pump to keep the tailings from recirculating
they should use some toggle latches for the cover plates. they are welded or bolted on so no hardware can get lost. they could also put ridges or groves on the inside of the box and bend the sides of the mat trays to slide into the groves like a lot of metal garage shelves. that would remove all the hardware.
Myself, I would certainly use it, but at the moment and for the past 18 months I've moved at lot of material with the Gold Claw Set and quickly. My only problem with this kind of equipment is the need for a Jackery to operate the pump.
I suggest hinges on the front and rear plates instead of struggling with nuts and bolts. Keep ot simple enough and a 90 degree PVC fitting for the top hose feeding the water to the unit.
I would hinge that door and put a couple of latches for ease of access. At the bottom design a funnel type dump into a bucket. Use springed clips to hold the trays in place those wing nuts are annoying.
When you put the camera in the viewing holes I was like. Geeze shoulda stuck a giant gold painted rock and say Wooow. It found a nugget already🤣
This box would work great for ore sampling or quick drywash testing,that ore dump at your blue chip mine would be a great spot to test this for fine gold recovery.
I think the original "Gold Hog" unit was similar to this. A bit larger, but it worked the pay better. You didn't need to constantly be removing the rocks from the grizzly. I think it could use a little bit bigger pump to wash the pay. This is more compact for back packing into the woods.
Good review Dan. You covered about everything. Benny
Dan, in regards to the feet have Gold Hog put on a swivel on the feet that can be loose while setting up then tighten with a thumb screw once steady for first run. Just an idea. Chris.
Another couple of ideas: First: Mount a Z shaped plate/bar across the inside back with the two screws & wing-nuts used for the Grizzly, and then the grizzly could just kind of hang on/clip on the Z bar making it super easy to add or remove the Grizzly! Second: Use clip-on Pal Nuts on the plate flanges and use the kind of wing nuts that are actually Wing-Studs (studs bolts with wings at one end) (yes, they make them already), so the nuts wouldn't fall off because they have clips, and the screws are where the wing is located. Eliminates quite a few of the design problems!. They aren't Flaws, they're problems and for every problem there IS a solution!
I really like your wing-studs idea. I suggested above about mounting a box on the unit's side to put them.
@@susanturcotte3176 Oh yeah, great idea! And they can add a magnet to the bottom like the ones for working on cars and such, so they don't get jostled out of the tray/box! Good thinkin' Sue! ( my sister's name is Sue!)
@@susanturcotte3176 And , my idea makes for TOOLess assembly and disasembly! No screwdrivers needed.
@@Bob-Whiting The magnets would help, too! You have an engineering mind like my dad had. He taught me how to trouble-shoot and make a solution if need be. That's why many call me a "Jill-of-all-trades." My dad always answered my questions and asked me what I would do. If he didn't know, he always said "we will find the answer or solution together." Even though I'm an old goat now and he's been gone since 1999, I try to look at every new thing in terms of making it fit my needs.
Forgot to tell you that all the docs and nurses here call me nurse Suzie Q
Maybe they could put a small magnetic strip on the outside where you could temporarily stick the wingnuts so that they don't get lost out in the wild. Somewhere that doesn't effect the process, of course. 😉
I've got a suggestion for you: there needs to be a mounted box on the side to put all of the wing nuts. Wing nuts are too easy to lose. Especially handy when you have taken it down to area and need to set it up. B3ats having to screw each nut back on for transport.
I’ve always wanted to start panning and you’ve so inspired me. I live on the Fraser so I am so getting one of these. Cheers
to fix the grizzly, have them lengthen the flange beyond the top bend, then bend it inward for a cm or so, then outward to present the flat for the carriage bolts to have a holder nut and still be closed to the box at the top. the bends inward should just make space for the holder nut and would tighten the wingnut against the carriage head as it should.
Dan I believe that the legs are designed to have the bends to go front and back instead of side to side, then the bucket should be able to fit. You might find that the feet sit flatter as well.
They are fortunate to get such an honest and thorough testing from you Dan.
As for the Front plate & Grizzly plate, the bolts can easily be mounted permanently with some good old JB Weld or other strong liquid steel type product.
I made the same machine with two plastic buckets and a bit of miners moss, works just as well.
Gold Hog could include both sets of legs because every location is different and this will give us versatility to adapt the unit to our conditions.
Dan the thread situation, I think if you had a nut welded to the U bracket that holds the legs it would be of more benefit for the design, as in more threads for the screw to hold onto. Nice design also.
a latch system in place of wing nuts would be super simple and the pressed plates can just get lips to be held in place because it would suck loosing a wing nut on the road
Thanks Dan good on you I live aboard and would like to mention bilge pumps do not like any debree even hair and fishing line is enough to ruin them ,I find mounting them through a fine stainless steel flour sift to a 5mm Perspex foot helps just screw blue pump base into Perspex through the sifter also you can wrap pump in fine fly wire first I have had cheap pumps last yrs like this even expensive pumps fail quick with any muck getting into them thanks you Rock,,,,,,
Sure this has been suggested. For the grizzly, bend the sides up and angle them towards the middle to direct the material into the holes.