@@wangdennys Some people also talk about micro-tears of the film. But like you see and like you show in your video, ACF is quite difficult to tear and puncture, so I guess those micro-tears and this texture may user errors, not defects from the product. Also videos from Aorita, the ACF supplier show ACF tested quite too an extreme. If it resists those conditions, it would resist the lesser ones we use.
@@wangdennys exactly. As a reference from the supplier: czcams.com/video/LgArXzDkbuQ/video.html The maximum lift/retract speed on the Nova3D Whale3 SE is 240mm/min. With the Aorita ACF, the printer was set to 240mm/min lift speed, 255mm/min retract speed [I know 255 min/min is past the maximum, I wanted to see what would happen], Nova3D Water Washable resin at 3 bottom layers at 7 seconds exposure, 1.8 second regular layer exposure, 5mm lift. Print successful First printed five full plates of "Validation" exposure test (8 tests per plate) at 120 mm/min lift and retract speed and same exposure, etc., as the following: then printed full build plate of up to ~10cm tall parts, Nova3D Water Washable resin at 3 bottom layers at 7 seconds exposure, 1.8 second regular layer exposure, 5mm lift, 240 mm/minute lift and retract speed. Layer height was 0.05 mm for all. Print successful
Thank you! I have been telling people for so long ACF is fine and they are missing some other variable. I have also stated that there is possibly a quality difference in ACF films and they always scoff at me and tell me it's all from the same place and that is impossible and that it is all bad. It's been frustrating. ACF has been great for me, I really like it.
How do you clean this stuff. I was testing different color resin and in between I did my normal cleaning procedure and something happened that made it supper sticky. I did a vat clean after and the sheet adhered it's self in a few different spots and ruined the film. I used widow cleaner and ipa for the initial cleaning.
Thanks for sharing, it's quite weird on some printers there is noise from the graininess of the ACF and on other it's less noticeable, there are lots of factors from the thickness of the glass protector u showed in another video to the custom light each printer has, it's also very subtle without using a magnifying lens.
@@TheIcemanModdeler glossy smooth surface should be on top. Facing the buildplate. The rougher side should be on the botom facing the screen. Its in the video @0:55
On my mobile it sure looked like the details on the right side minis were all blurry or at least not as crip. How come you say there is subjectively no difference?
the carbon fiber patern on the F1 steering wheel is way finer and detail on the left side (nfep) film than de ACF , as the seams for the little figurine hood, or is it just me?
Great Video. Do you think using a screen protector will affect the details of an ACF film due to the minor increase in distance from the screen and the fep?
@@wangdennys I am getting texture issue on my mighty 8k with acf. I am pretty sure I have installed correctly. I tought maybe due to protector but looks like it is not. Ty for the reply.
Problem with ACF is that it breaks down MUCH faster than PFA and FEP and its prohibitvely expensive. It dimples too easily and breaks much too easily. Not only that its harder to find. I like the middle ground PFA. I never have issues using PFA and I can make a single sheet of PFA last MONTHS with daily printing as opposed to ACF which costs twice as much only lasting about 3 to 4 weeks. I'm now using a Saturn 3 Ultra, and wish I could use ACF for its speed benefits, but for now, it really doesn't make sense for a myriad of reasons.
@@wangdennys I wonder why my ACF experience is soo much different then? Do you get the ACF dimpling issues? I cleaned my vat very carefully after every print and still had issues with it. I couldn't figure out where the damage was coming from. Maybe dirty/contaminated resin from the mfr? But, I used the same resin on the PFA, so that reasoning doesn't make much sense either.
Mr. Wang, that 'popping' is interesting, I've used Aorita ACF for more than 6 months, one of the interesting things about it is that it _never makes noise_ even with full build-area prints with huge surface area...
We switched all our machines to ACF a little over a month ago, print speed increased and we see little to no failures. Its great for what we do.
Hello. What machines are you using!?
Totally conforms with our experience!
I wonder if people that are getting the texture are installing the film upside down.
That could be the case.
But that means some factory install it upside down. LOL
Man I hope those reviewers see this and update on their installs.
@@wangdennys
Some people also talk about micro-tears of the film.
But like you see and like you show in your video, ACF is quite difficult to tear and puncture, so I guess those micro-tears and this texture may user errors, not defects from the product.
Also videos from Aorita, the ACF supplier show ACF tested quite too an extreme. If it resists those conditions, it would resist the lesser ones we use.
@@jjmusicfactory2676 yep.
I am not sure about the micro tear. Because from my test, the flexibility help acf to not get puncture or tear easily.
@@wangdennys
exactly.
As a reference from the supplier: czcams.com/video/LgArXzDkbuQ/video.html
The maximum lift/retract speed on the Nova3D Whale3 SE is 240mm/min.
With the Aorita ACF, the printer was set to 240mm/min lift speed, 255mm/min retract speed [I know 255 min/min is past the maximum, I wanted to see what would happen], Nova3D Water Washable resin at 3 bottom layers at 7 seconds exposure, 1.8 second regular layer exposure, 5mm lift.
Print successful
First printed five full plates of "Validation" exposure test (8 tests per plate) at 120 mm/min lift and retract speed and same exposure, etc., as the following: then printed full build plate of up to ~10cm tall parts, Nova3D Water Washable resin at 3 bottom layers at 7 seconds exposure, 1.8 second regular layer exposure, 5mm lift, 240 mm/minute lift and retract speed. Layer height was 0.05 mm for all.
Print successful
Thank you! I have been telling people for so long ACF is fine and they are missing some other variable. I have also stated that there is possibly a quality difference in ACF films and they always scoff at me and tell me it's all from the same place and that is impossible and that it is all bad. It's been frustrating. ACF has been great for me, I really like it.
I have several manufacture for acf when googling.
So could be that.
Thanks, Mr. Wang, yet another important, thorough review and discussion, keep up the great work!
Wow! Great review!
Thank you. Can you share your settings?
I really want to learn how you do those amazing supports!!
Do you think that it works for Elegoo Mars 3 and Saturn 1?
How do you clean this stuff. I was testing different color resin and in between I did my normal cleaning procedure and something happened that made it supper sticky. I did a vat clean after and the sheet adhered it's self in a few different spots and ruined the film. I used widow cleaner and ipa for the initial cleaning.
Looks like window cleaner is the cause.
I only use ipa.
Thanks again for the review, I wonder if phrozen will sell them and how it will work on a sonic mini 4K, that my machine.
I went to Phrozens website and they do sell smaller sheets for 4K mini.
Right is ACF
You are right
LOL
Thanks for video. Can you share the link to the ACF film you used?
It is from phrozen
I have tested this as well on my Anycubic M3 premium with "Phrozen" ACF film, cant see a texture either
What about acf from anycubic?
@@wangdennyswasn't available to me, in Germany it was hard to find any ACF
Thanks for sharing, it's quite weird on some printers there is noise from the graininess of the ACF and on other it's less noticeable, there are lots of factors from the thickness of the glass protector u showed in another video to the custom light each printer has, it's also very subtle without using a magnifying lens.
It could be.
I often wonder if they did not just flip it backward and have the rough surface at the top/
@@SliverCreations The smooth surface should be at the top?
@@TheIcemanModdeler glossy smooth surface should be on top. Facing the buildplate. The rougher side should be on the botom facing the screen. Its in the video @0:55
Thank you so much SIR, i hope you make more video about Mighty 12K
Any idea what to make?
On my mobile it sure looked like the details on the right side minis were all blurry or at least not as crip. How come you say there is subjectively no difference?
i hold it in hand and check it with magnifier. i think the blurry is from the macro lens, it is kinda hard to focus them.
Are you still using 3 papers to level or does it require less because the acf is thicker than nfep?
I cut smaller and stack 3 of the acf protector.
LOL
what does that mean
ur my print saviour
welcome
i find that the acf prints have an extra sheen and look lighter in color
Thank you for sharing the info
the carbon fiber patern on the F1 steering wheel is way finer and detail on the left side (nfep) film than de ACF , as the seams for the little figurine hood, or is it just me?
I hold i hand they seems similar
But my eye could be wrong.
And everyone is welcome for their opinion
brother your content is helping me a lot. Thank you !@@wangdennys
@@que_dijo thank you
Beside the acf film, your testing object is so clean! Even cant see the support mark...
Most stupport still attach 🤣
Great Video. Do you think using a screen protector will affect the details of an ACF film due to the minor increase in distance from the screen and the fep?
I have screen protector on both film
Is there a screen protector on the lcd?
I always install screen guard on all my printers
@@wangdennys I am getting texture issue on my mighty 8k with acf. I am pretty sure I have installed correctly. I tought maybe due to protector but looks like it is not. Ty for the reply.
I was right about what is ACF and what is NFEP and to me NFEP clearly looks sharper, am I crazy?
Hahahhahaha!!!
Problem with ACF is that it breaks down MUCH faster than PFA and FEP and its prohibitvely expensive. It dimples too easily and breaks much too easily. Not only that its harder to find. I like the middle ground PFA. I never have issues using PFA and I can make a single sheet of PFA last MONTHS with daily printing as opposed to ACF which costs twice as much only lasting about 3 to 4 weeks. I'm now using a Saturn 3 Ultra, and wish I could use ACF for its speed benefits, but for now, it really doesn't make sense for a myriad of reasons.
Luckily
My ACF still going strong since this review.
And i print daily.
@@wangdennys I wonder why my ACF experience is soo much different then? Do you get the ACF dimpling issues? I cleaned my vat very carefully after every print and still had issues with it. I couldn't figure out where the damage was coming from. Maybe dirty/contaminated resin from the mfr? But, I used the same resin on the PFA, so that reasoning doesn't make much sense either.
@shreddy_mcgnar6359 dimple is fine.
As long as no puncture.
Mr. Wang, that 'popping' is interesting, I've used Aorita ACF for more than 6 months, one of the interesting things about it is that it _never makes noise_ even with full build-area prints with huge surface area...
i guess my plate is very level and causing suction from the resin pressure.
A non subjective method of assessing print quality would be helpful as the pixel size of SLA printers continues to decline.
care to elaborate how to do the non subjective method?
@@wangdennys That's always the question that causes them to go silent, LOL
@@retromodernart4426 i dont even understand the question 😆
@@wangdennys That's fine, neither does the questioner, 🤪
Chitubox discount doesn't work
Ah i will check again with chitubox
@@wangdennys thank you