SURFING The Planet's LARGEST Waves w/ Garrett McNamara | Rich Roll Podcast
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 2. 08. 2024
- Rich Roll sits down with legendary surfer Garrett McNamara to talk about the mindset and spiritual tools that help him surf some of the biggest waves in the world. To read more about Garrett and peruse the full show notes, go heređđŸbit.ly/richroll734
âđŒđ± - Rich
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FILMED AND EDITED BY BLAKE CURTIS, DAN DRAKE & MARGO LUBIN
www.blakecurtis.net/
www.dandrake333.com/
00:00:00 - Intro
00:05:59 - Nazaré, Portugal / the initial email
00:12:14 - What makes this wave so special?
00:12:37 - Nazere Canyon
00:18:59 - âThe Irishmanâ - unlikely successful surfer and his team
00:20:58 - What does it take to be a Tow-in surfer (waverunner) driver?
00:22:20 - Anderson Cooper's Description of Garrett
00:23:10 - Garrettâs instinctual use of visualization and manifestation
00:25:00 - A second year of scouting the wave
00:27:24 - How do you measure the height of a wave?
00:29:33 - WSL / the politics of surfing
00:31:37 - Controversy and dismissiveness from the surfing community?
00:34:31 - A third year back in Nazaré
00:35:27 - Maya Gabeira: (world record: largest wave surfed by a woman) near fatal accident at Nazaré
00:37:43 - Garrettâs relationship with fear
00:45:55 - The â100ft waveâ phenomenon
00:49:45 - Upbringing / backstory ⊠Born in Massachusetts, raised in Berkeley, CA
00:53:24 - processing or compartmentalizing a traumatic upbringing?
00:54:07 - Garrettâs book: âHound of the Sea: Wild Man. Wild Waves. Wild Wisdom.â
00:58:33 - psychedelic therapy / medicine
01:02:51 - Getting to âCement Cityâ, HI
01:03:59 - Cutting School Frequently
01:07:11 - Where does surfing first come in?
01:08:27 - Garrettâs younger brother Liam was a surf-star⊠10 years winning many competitions
01:11:11 - How does Garrett âcatch upâ and eventually âpassâ Liam as a pro surfer?
01:13:55 - Traumatic experiences with water
01:14:49 - Owned Epic Sports Surf Shop / MMA on North Shore of HI
01:15:54 - Giving up the dream
01:18:02 - Garrettâs tipping point.
01:18:35 - Have to get back to surfing⊠How? Prize money! EDDIE & JAWS!
01:25:45 - Wins the JAWS competition at 35 years old
01:31:39 - Embracing self promotion: carving out a career as a surfer
01:34:54 - Carving out a niche
01:35:55 - First marriage dissolves: lack of trust. Lack of support.
01:36:41 - Smoked pot from 12yrs old to 22 yrs old. Small bout with cocaine.
01:40:00 - Nicole. Love at first sight.
01:41:27 - Lived out of a suitcase for three years.
01:43:03 - Books: âThe Secretâ & âSeven Spiritual Laws of Successâ
01:44:35 - Advice for goal setting, projection and manifestation
01:51:37 - Practical tools for manifestation
01:53:04 - The alchemy of their (Garrett & Nicole)âs relationship
01:53:47 - âItâs never too early or never too late to chase your dreamsâ - Nicole
01:55:25 - When did director Chris Smith / the doc team approach you?
01:57:33 - When did a doc film turn into a docuseries?
01:58:18 - Season 2 premieres in Jan. 2023⊠âbetter than the firstâ!
01:58:56 - Human design: generators and their auras
02:03:22 - How do you prepare to drop in on waves of that size?
02:05:34 - Forrest Yoga - Ana Forrest
02:07:22 - Ana Forrest's Book: Fierce Medicine
02:09:59 - Holotropic breathwork
02:12:48 - Maintaining a connection with childlike wonder and joy
02:14:21 - Advice - Figure out what you loveâŠ
02:17:30 - P.C.P. = Present, Connected, Protected.
02:19:55 - Closing
* * * * *
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Hi I'm Rich Roll. I'm a vegan ultra-endurance athlete, author, podcaster, public speaker & wellness evangelist. But mainly I'm a dad of four. If you want to know more, visit my website or check out these two the NY Times articles:
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The man; the myth; the legend. Garett McNamara.
Iâm practicing my English and this podcast helps a lot, is incredibly how brave a human can be!!
Garret and Nicole are such inspirational human beings , breaking through ceilings never thought possible I love you guys.
Rich this was the best podcast I have ever seen , your questions and interactions are so creative and in the moment , just brilliant.
Thank you guysđâ€ïž
â€
Garret puts it all out there. Authentic.
I admire people who conquered the relationship with water and waves in the ocean, being one to one with the water wall.
Mahalo for this wonderful interview! I grew up surfing NS Oahu as a teen in the 60âs with a mom on barbituates & pills so can relate. But had a dad who was a sociopath multiple personality tryrannical bastard paranoid control freak. So I took lots of notes because my life was primarily always sucked into a constant undertow of never accomplishing a consciously directed life. All I can say is thank god/goddess for having had surfing, skiing & studying several forms of dance to keep my head just above water because suicide was my constant easy option due to so much inner pain. And since both parents did it, it was always an invitation. Thankfully at 32 I was gifted a mystic shrink who assisted me with not checking out. Now at an age where I am supposed to be retired, I want to do something consciously directed creating a balanced life ⊠so this was hugely inspiring! Again Mahalo Nui from Kona ⊠with a small note ⊠Once a surfer (when young) Always a surfer ⊠and can see looking back how my connection with the ocean, waves & Mother Pacific was teaching me to how somehow surf my chidlhood traumas through a directionless mostly chaotic life. So am now loving hearing everyone from the NS Oahu surfing stories at different ages on YT ⊠how itâs shaping their lives is wonderful and so different now as everyone has access to so many more tools ⊠outside of the old paradigm of this Earth Realm ⊠Co-creating a new one. And itâs clear to me that those that have grown up as a kid surfing NS Oahu, no matter what decade ⊠have something very out of the box to big offer now ⊠more than ever is the time NOW.
Adreed
@ 19:30 Ireland and England have some great waves and surfers.
The 100 Foot Wave was an incredible docu series!
Highly recommend & Nicole is such a beautiful human being.
The two of them together is a combo meant to be & something from deep within in the cosmosâ€
Oh manâŠthis interview is so wonderful. I really enjoy learning about who a person is and thisâŠoh my gosh, just wonderful.
All the best. Thank You for this. Truly wonderful.
I seriously loved this thank you â€inspired and touched in being true to self and serving others through the journey âŠâŠ. †I love the big waves and wow how awesome how big is letting fear go in doing those big wavesâŠ.I remember seeing that huge wave you took in Portugal and posting it on social media whenever that came out and many many liking this most amazing man surfing what looked impossibleâŠ. Well doneâ€
PCP - Present, connected, protected †loved this interview! Such inspiring people and the message that it's all attainable if we want it badly enough and are willing to work for it, is so powerful. Rich has become a master at asking the most insightful questions and guiding the conversation in different directions without limiting any responses. I'd always heard about Garret through surf mags and knew he was one of the big wave hellmen but so cool to see what a great human he is. Can't wait to watch the documentary.
I was at a surf shop in Haleiwa the day after the Pipe Masters in 2003. After a brief chat, he said his name was Garrett McNamara. Pretty cool to talk shop with a legend.
I would be grateful if somebody could point out the book Garret talked about. The name of this book is The Medicine Wheel. However, after a quick search, I have found many books with such names. Thank you.
This is an enriching one, Rich. Much appreciated đ
58:53 Psychedelicâs definitely have potential to deal with mental health symptoms like anxiety and depression, I would like to try them again but itâs just so hard to source here
[myco_tray]
Got psychs
@@sarahh321 Where to search?? Is it instagram?
Last year, I took shrooms at Las Vegas thinking it was going to hit like an edible or something. Shit was scary at first but amazing once you start getting deeper into your thoughts
@@Jerryberger9235 Yes, heâs got other psychs too
@@sarahh321 Thanks, Iâll get some right away
I recently went through some extremley traumatic things and i realised a few months back i want to surf big waves and its attainable now i told my partner my goal and started working towards that, then i see this podcast it helped it all fall into place for me, i relate to your upbrining alot maybe it does relate to the risk factor being almost irrelevant đ anyways Garrett i will see you at Nazare one day and il tell you this in person đ€ thanks for the inspiration man! Looking forward to that day..
Surfing keeps you sane even when surfing the absolute most insane đđââïž thatâs the gift
I love your Podcaster rich roll
It was so great to hear a conversation with a great athlete, again!
This was a great conversation! So real!
Amazing interview!! Loved every Single minute
Another fire podcast.đ„đ„đ„
Such a beautiful conversation. So much depth, heart and soul.
Very special humans! Loved Thisđ
Love my past, All has been my teacher đ
Their baby is so precious! Really great podcast!
Great interview!
Good work. Very impressive surfing.
Brazilians getting there and doing their thing is great too
Hey, Rich ... 'just want to compliment you on being quick - not too quick, though, to transplant some of the terms common to the surfing industry/activity that Garrett used but for which I had no sense of their meaning. Because of your effort, I learned a few things about said activity. Thank you.
Mr. Roll. This is by far one of your best episodes to date. You are a genius at allowing the energy of the conversation to ebb and flow. Garett was allowed the space and freedom to be his kooky, genuine self. You beautifully brought his entire story to light with compassion understanding, relatability, and wisdom. Inviting Garett's wife and their beautiful baby onto the set was epic. I felt like I was sitting around a campfire with all of you. Something Nicole said really hit home for me. You were referencing morning routines and she said something along the lines of not everyone needs to wake up at 5am to be successful. Thank you! "Know thyself". So many podcasts are about "telling you" what you "need to do". This episode was so accepting and allowing. An amazing flow between all of you. Really, so beautiful. Thank you. đ
Wow I lived in Pittsfield ma for a year crazy small world
Fantastic Rich! I don't surf. I never heard of Garrett prior to this podcast. What a story!
Thank you, through this I realized it's time for me to reset.
@richroll Do you know who wrote 'The Medicine Wheel" they recommended? There are several different books with this title by different people when I checked. Thanks!
đ đđŸââïž
Lot of people are asking similar questions about getting more detail on the books mentioned in this episode. Rich et al., you have a great podcast but your show notes are really lacking. Please consider posting these kind of details rather than a series of popular press links about Garrett that anyone can find with basic google searches. This guy and his wife are a wellspring of great advice and so inspiring. It would be a shame if more people could not learn from them.
I was wondering who the guy on that monster wave was!! Go Garret Go Rich
hold the phone - what is the white t-shirt brand that rich is wearing?! looks awesome!
Love this amazing story and Garett and Nicole's way of being! Who is the author of "The Medicine Wheel" that Nicole mentioned? Would love to check it out but there are a lot of books with similar titles :)
looking for the same info
@@AJG14310 Me too!!
Saaaame! Came here for this.
I found Rich to be really disrespectful in the conversation about his mom and like he pushing him to call her a bad mom.
what an answer to his trauma. mushrooms w guide 3 m ago ! LOVE his answer. pop those buggars out LOVE them and let go. and of course HE WOULD NOT BE WHO HE WAS WITHOUT THEM TO BEGIN WITH.
Great interview, also what's with Garrett's accent, it's like he has an Irish inflection in it
I love the baby coos đ€·
It's not often you see Rich judge someone in a negative way. Was interesting to see this going off the rails until Nicole was brought in. đ
Rich was coming off super intrusive about this dudes relationship with his mother. Wasnât his place to do that if you ask me
A bit patronizing as wellâŠâŠâŠ
Not often you see him so judgy
So intrusive and he had to keep defending her...
Kinda disrespectful
What's with the uncharacteristic 'well, you are Irish' comment, Rich? That's way out of order. Greetings from Dublin, Ireland.
with respect, I suspect Rich didn't say it with malice. He was doing a 'short hand', i.e. stereotype. Hey, I live in Canada and we get all sorts of stereotypical comments thrown our way and not all of them are positive.
This is the kind of world đ we've made for ourselves and our children, better have no enemies when the light goes out , due to the economic criss, wars and rate of unemployment I think now is the best time to invest and make more money for the futuređŻ.
đșđŠI'm from Ukraine investing now will be a very wise choice âșïž to secure a better future for my family God help us.
đ°Investing today is priceless because tomorrow isn't promised, trading Bitcoin gold, sliver and crypto to secure a better tomorrow
Interesting, most people don't understand the market moves and tend to be mislead in the fact like this and always depend on the bank and very bad ideas
Its nice for people to talk about investment because investment always beats cash
I understand that tomorrow isn't promised to anyone but investing today is a hard thing to do because I have no idea of how or where to invest.
âAnderson Cooper is the best?â. You had me till that comment. Later.
Gonna challenge you to get more muscular Rich, fight age back.
Honestly....
ummmm isnt RR a runner? different than a gym made body MMwind.
This is 8 ft hawaiian.
Dude is going hard the the mom.. đ€đ€Ą
This guy surfs big waves but not with style,, Tommy carrol will surf the same wave and fucking destroy it all the 80 crew killed it Ronni burns occy Barton lynch sunny Garcia I grew up in Encinitas all the boys Trevor Christ Kenny Clemens Todd Martin brad gerlac Donald takiama great shapers Tom eberly lighting bolt all the local boys then fucking killed it everyday
Ronnie Burns, 2-20 foot. Master shredder...
What about Rob Machado? He killed large pipe.
Thereâs a massive list of surfing legends, through multiple generations, that would strongly disagree with you, but I respect your opinion, and itâs everyoneâs right to have one. I donât know if youâre familiar with John Cardiel, but if not, you should check him out and watch his Epicly Laterâd. I see a lot of style and mindset parallels, between his skating & Garrettâs surfing. Cheers âïž