Surfer swallowed by massive wave // Surfista engolido por onda gigante
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- čas přidán 4. 04. 2015
- Surfer gets caught on the inside by massive set and goes over the falls on giant wave. // Na tentativa de surfar ondas gigantes no Mexico surfista acaba sendo varrido por serie e arremessado pelo lip.
Been there, many of us have. It's a sick feeling. You think you are going to make it, then you are scratching up the last few feet to the top of the lip and all of a sudden you are accelerating in the opposite direction getting sucked over the falls. You try to bail away from your board, but you're just a hunk of flesh going along for a sleigh ride to the underworld. You can't tell up from down, which is the way to the surface, to the life sustaining air. The water is so aerrated you are sinking, why am I not rising upwards. If it is still there, you must follow your leash to the surface. Out of breath, gasping for air, with rubber arms you pull your board underneath your quivering body. Awash in whitewater and foam, you start paddling for your life because that was the first of a 4 wave monster set of legit 10'+, thick lip barrels breaking top to bottom.
If you make it through the set, you paddle a little farther out, catch your breath and realize how great it is to be alive.
With that experience, at least the first time, we all thought we were going to really die.
What doesn't kill us makes us stronger or at least ballzyer.
Experienced this in a far smaller wave than this (2m-3 probably), my first time...a scary experience...in the last bit underwater i tought it was the end, but then you see the light
You have explained an absolute beating very well.
If you see a waves coming towards you, DO NOT SWIM BACK TO THE SHORE, Swim down. After the wave passed, you can gasp for air and swim back to shore. REPEAT THIS IF YOU EVER SEEN A BIG WAVES.
I thought I was going to die a few months ago here in Oceanside. Bit off more than I could chew. I laugh now but when I came up from the first one I barely caught a breath for 2 seconds then got fucked again. No lube. Best thing I took away that day while walking with my tail between my legs beaten and happy to be alive was to be calm and NOT panic no matter what.
A Day in the Life of I feel you dude. It humbles you real quick when you get ragdolled like you weigh less than a paper receipt. Lol
crazy how small the waves look from the gopro perspective
i know right
Leeroy Jenkins so true. 2x when its small surf, 10x smaller when its big. Don't like that selfie angle either.
Leeroy Jenkins same with ski slopes. You come up to a slope which is 80 degrees angled, full of ice and bumps, nut the GoPro portrays it as a bunny hill
a 10 m jump in motocross look like you jump put a little wheelie x)
Leeroy Jenkins I was just about to comment that
GoPro doesn't do justice to how big the waves are sometimes, that thing was massive!!
Nick Treiber , I know , I'm disappointed in my gopro makes waves look tiny
Seriously your so right
Lol it totally looks small.
We don't know that the Gopro images were necessarily from 'that' particular wave!!
@@larryslemp9698 They were
Man... this made me remember one of my experiences vividly. I nearly died by drowning after eleven consecutive monster waves crashed on me, one after the other. No time to surf away or paddle before the first crashed. The smallest was aprox 8 meters from surface level. There's not much use fighting against such big force pushing/wrecking into you. You just have to be patient and wait for an opening to come back up. Eventually, I found out I couldn't surf or swim away because on top of everything, horrible flash riptide surged from where I emerged. I'm a strong surfer, even better swimmer, but when I saw the size of the third wave approach, and the one rising after that, a cold realization came through that this could be fatal. There were no lifeguards, my friends were on the other side of the beach (I was dragged a long way, very fast). The next wave crashes. The force and pattern of that wave was messy and hard- it crushed my reserve of air from its impact, as it forced my board one way, and I the other. The elastic stretched its full capacity and started dragging me along with it by my ankle. Eventually, I had to decide if I should let the board go to have better mobility (to be able to dive deeper) or not. But after the seventh or so monstrous wave, my lungs were burning, muscles shaking, breath rattling, and the board- though it dragged me down and further every time- was the only thing keeping me afloat the aerated salt water. That aerated water was horrid. There's no density for you to push or swim through. You sink when you try you swim, you drown when you try to breathe. I remember having absurd, ironic thoughts when my vision began darkening as I fought for air. After the 11th wave, I knew I was done if this kept going. And that, is something that will stay with me for the rest of my life. That sure, confusing, disbelieving feeling of: I am going to die now. My thoughts turned farcical- almost comical at the situation. At the end, when I was tumbling against the ocean floor, I had my last ridiculous burst of 'f** you, I won't die here, drowning of all things' and swam up. Forced any air I could gasp into uncooperative lungs, and swam for shore. I don't remember how to be honest. Next thing I remember is dragging myself on sand with elbows and knees and collapsing. Fortunately,, didn't die, and thankfully still surf :)
What a story!
wowzers that was intense
sometimes after shit like this (nowhere near THAT bad though) happens i notice that my lungs just refuse to breathe correctly. Like i can't physically take a good breath - theyre so shallow that nothing really helps
Thank you for sharing. I have a new found respect for the waves now.
DAMN i was completely engulfed in your story. big big kudos, amazing you got thru that :)
I love POV shots like this. Makes you feel like you're out there
I'm uploading some to my channel if you wanna check em out
Good to have the land footage too.. alot of the times the waves look alot smaller through a gopro.
It’s fake. Sorry dude.
...how can you fake a video like that? Just curious.
a.m. remorse What does that have to do with possibly faking a video?
GoPro made it look like an overhead day but the other video was crazy
Yeah, it was even hard to tell when he should commit by that footage
I think we all know that feeling when there’s a freak line of clean up sets that no one was expecting.
Stomach drops... paddle your ass off, either get lucky and duck dive just before the lip crashes, or bail and dive deep!
I love the up close and personal you can get with a gopro. I can almost feel the surf on my face and smell that amazing fresh salty air!
never go for the first wave.
I dont understand that saying. I dont get it. Plz explain
A lot of times when you go for the first wave of the set you wont catch it. Then that wave takes you just far enough to catch the next ones on your head. Often the next waves in the set are larger too.
+Moo Kroo never take the first wave in a set because there will always be a bigger one behind it thatll take you out
That's a good advice. Of course it musn't be an absolute rule. Sometimes if you catch the first wave you not only avoid getting caught inside by he next ones of the set but mainly you have a clean face for surfing (without the foam of previous waves of the set). Although, when in waves of size and responsability, we always need to consider the fact of not being able to catch the first wave, as you well explained...
not a rule of course, I go on first set waves all the time, I just know if I wipe out, or miss the wave, I'm fucked - and I'm in for a heart thumping scraping paddle battle, or I'm gonna try and ditch my board and grab the bottom. (on big days) anything under 6-7 foot, pretty manageable to get "out" of the impact zone.. but for beginners, yea if you see a set, skip the first wave and go for the third or fourth.
Rule is, if you're going to go for the first wave, you better catch it, because if you don't, you're in for a whole lot of hurt, trust me I've lived the nightmare
Marvin Smith lmao
Me too
Yup, as soon as he whiffed that first wave and turned around to see the set come in my heart sank for him
To all those saying it's not the same wave, look at the foam he goes through on both angles, it's exactly the same. Watch some go pro footage off Nathan Florence, his footage makes jaws look small and it is bigger than this video
POV makes it look 3 feet
6 years later this is on my recommendation
Totally fricken stoked bro,
I remember the fear of paddling my ass off to try and make it before the set waves broke on me.
It's a scary rush for sure and hope your arms don't turn to noodles before you make it through the set or that you save enough breath to fight the beating underwater in case you don't make it😱
That feeling when you’re swimming as hard as you can as your board pulls you to your death 💀 will stay with you forever… my heart is racing just thinking about it.
Anyone who has surfed for a few years has been in this situation. Hope he can hold his breath for a while.
sucked down the falls. And ya, like Anthony siracuse said... never go for the first wave of a set on a big day unless you're 100% you're gonna make that drop.
Yeah cause not making the first one and sprint paddling out back is the worst
Er he didn't go for the first wave and he got fucked
@@chatteyj Yes he did lol.
You can hear the stress in his breathing, I know that feeling.
Sheew he allllmost made it
Same experince
@@gavinwiener so close mane, he was right there too it looked like he even made it past the falls after his board cuz sucked. But his board got sucked :(
did a whale take a massive shit in the water. ??
Nah, it's pulverized algae and other microorganisms in the surf when it gets big. It gets blown out and sits around the surf line when the wind is offshore (like this vid) and blows up on the beach when the wind is onshore and looks like dirty soap suds. There have been instances where beaches have been covered with many feet deep of brown suds making a surreal dirty bathtub of areas next to the sea on a hard onshore windy day. The ocean is full of swell energy when it is present.
HAHA
Looks like a typical west coast polluted beach
On our honeymoon I almost drowned, current pulled me out slowly until I was neck deep and being pounded by waves, we never spoke about it for years because it was so scary, never been back into the water passed my ankles, I admire their courage in this video
never take the first wave. learned that the hard way in hawaii.
im getting panic attacks and minor strokes watching this!
I've had this happen on like 6-8 ft waves! LOL. The ocean is so absurdly powerful. I cannot imagine going over the falls on a 20 ft wave like that FML!
It's crazy how smooth that water looked up close while he was paddling over those monsters.
epic ground swell
Love it how 10 foot barrels look like 1ft ripple through a GoPro
Ur kidding right? Those are atleast 15 to 20 ft
@@ibrodz1 yes the wave face is probably up to 20ft tall. I was thinking 10ft as in 10ft Hawaiian as a category of wave size.
That wave face is easily 30 feet.
@@sleepinglion1192 easily 50 maybe 60 feet
@@hudsoncaceres6820 1 million feet
Hey Guilherme,
any chance i could use some of this footage in one of my future edits?
@Caleb Patrick rude, you’re not Guilherme
@@user-pe2yx9kt4e kek
he never got permission
a moment of silence
@@neptunium_239 also stopped uploading pretty much. Let's hope it wasn't this comment. Man was so sad other people didn't want him to use their footage for free so he could do cool edits and collect ad revenue. Rip to electric
How long was the hold down, keep the tape running
That feeling as you break your head through the wave, thinking for a mere moment that you've made it through.........only to get sucked down the plughole.
Excellent coverage!
você é o Manga das parafinas Manga?
se for conheci vc em la Isla no Peru, que rola monstro brother! vlw pelas imagens
I'm glad this wasn't clickbait
Its so satisfying how all that gunk gets churned up after the wave crashes, then the ocean looks all nice and clear!
Surfing always seemed to appear so care free and easy.... until head mounted go-pros came along.
But still 30 feet wave are like 3 feet on go pro
the only people that think surfing is easy are the ones that never attempted paddling out in even the smallest surf...lol
what an absolute charger paddling around in conditions like this. more balls than most, that's for sure
Almost Bro! That 3 rd clean up set is always a little bigger...Charge it !
alguien me puede explicar cómo hace para aguantar tanto tiempo bajo el agua cuando se cae bajo ese tipo de olas
The waves look so calm and manageable - even pleasant from the first-person perspective. But when viewed from afar they look absolutely “fuckety-nope” terrifying.
I hate that feeling when you see the last wave and you doubt about if you can pass through, I was mentally broken for a situation like that many times, and i always recovered surfing a big day
No matter how long you have surfed paddling out on a huge day is still a big deal.
so is this inevitable if you want to surf big waves? how do u avoid getting pulled under, and what do you do if this happens?
Pretty inevitable and when it happens you just have to stay as calm as possible, do you surf?
Gotta love the Ending voice!!!
Yeah, that sucks. I had a two wave hold down at Kitty Hawk in North Carolina's outer banks during the storm swell from Hurricane Dorian. It was 12+ feet, pretty fast. I thought I was going to die. Leash snapped and all I could do was try to go the direction the bubbles were going.
Damn you were hustling it to take on those waves. Very scary. Glad you’re okay.
where is this? the first barrel looked sick
Does anyone know which place this is? Also, what’s that on water? Sea snot?
Though go pro might make it look different but if you look at whats in the water (the brown foam) is a different shape and where it is to the other long shot video...
1:06 Her : i consider you as my best friend
Where was this?
Yep, been there it hurts, but when you finally come up you know you're alive so its worth it
Im an amateur but for me its the worst when you decide to go over a wave but it doubles in size by the time it gets to you and it starts breaking right before you go over it and knocks you off your board
Who is it? Where? Please tell us in the description.
Well his name is Pedro, and that looked like Puerto Escondido.
Did he go over the falls?
this is giving me surf anxiety dude lol
I'm going to stay 20 ft from the sand tomorrow lol
Im a surfer man that shit is the scariest thing you will ever experience. seeing a huge wave about to break over you
Turbo charge paddling wasn't enough in the end - the dude got smashed by a Mack Truck!
NOOOOO!
First glance I was like ( Those waves are so good, I would’ve surfed them )
I don't know why I watch these. I still have recurring nightmares that look exactly like this and I haven't surfed anything nearly as big as that.
I thought that was nothing, then I saw the land shot!!! 😲😲 Farrrkkk that's solid AF!!!
Love the commentating
How I feel when A five footer with me.
When your buddy yells “OUTSIDE!”
Did he die?
Heavy dude, and all you can hear is your mates laughing..hahaha
Wow Dean, you're lucky to be alive and what not!
Actually terrifying!
Never been thrown over the falls before, but was stuck in on the inside. I was concern about my leash snapping because I can feel it stretching. Swam to my board and bear hugged it for dear life and let the huge ass white water pound me be back to shore because it's a long paddle back in. This was at Sunset Cliffs, San Diego by the way. It was 8ft overhead and underestimated it because it look mushy and soft from the cliffs and surfed when it was a smaller.
Did he survive?
Hard to duck dive a bigger board on a massive top to bottom barreling wave like that...had a similar situation happen to me at Sunset Beach Hawaii...made it out the back and didn't go over the falls, but snapped my 8'6" gun like a toothpick...then the long swim in through the rip tide...feel for the guy here...happens to the best of us.
This is the Zicatela Oaxaca México wave compa. Ni más ni menos.
Ainda inventarão um motor para prancha para voltarmos rápido ao pico...I hope...
😂 great mates he's got there, just laughing while he got hammered
What should they cry
@@jayfitzen you need anger management Jay you're so angry... 🙈🤦🏼♂️😂😂😂😂😂
Fr I don’t get how ppl can laugh on wipeouts that big. These are waves people die on
I've been in waves maybe only half this size and seeing him get pulled back over the falls gives me PTSD.
I can do that ...Hold my beer
Im out of breath just watching this. Nothing worse than being held underwater on big surf
What's in that brown foam?
Crazy how the go pro does the wave absolute no justice
The sound of those guys in slo-motion is just way too funny!
that was so cool!
poderia remar e passar por fora. mas ele remou direto para area de impacto.
tudo isso é apenas ossos do oficio!!!
foi jogar no vasco e nunca mais volto
Oh man, pulled over the falls...backwards. Doesn't get much worse than that.
That Gopro footage is not the same event as the distant perspective. Big difference in wave size.
Fish eye lens make waves look small.
I took video in head high waves and you couldn't even see them on film
OMG - you rock brother
Got u to 30 subs
The perspective of the board looks like it's 5 foot wave
To the people saying this was huge, the locals at Pipeline eat waves like this for breakfast
Not sure what's worst. Knowing what's in store or the embarrassment from the shore.
That would look like a 3 story brick wall from the bottom.
me like "go boy, go young man, oh no"
Brutal dragging over the Falls...like going over Niagara falls.
Thats a Puerto Escondido wave at Zicatela beach
Morreu?
I am not an advanced surfer . So , please do not judge me but i want to know why the surfer did not duck dive . Again i am just a beginner and so i might have some silly questions. Please do not get me wrong
He could've ducked dived about 3/4 the way up it looked like! However, that looked like a big board- which are hard af to duck dive with, maybe turtle roll it, but..
Catch the damn perfect waves
Paddlepaddlepaddle nooooooooooo fml
It’s really is scary knowing that you could possibly not make it back up in time and your body goes into focus mode.. I would have definitely died being out of shape as much as I am.
That is THE worst feeling.
Really shocks me that every surfer doesn’t immediately incorporate one of those co2 vests into there gear.
He got caught up in no man's land
Why is it that 12 foot waves look tiny from the surfers perspective, yet 4 foot waves look like tsunamis
this was me at north shore 😂 went over the wave, next thing I know it felt like someone grabbed my feet and sucked me under the wave