Taking it one step further, get a 10 position rotary switch wire it up with 0.1, 0.15, 0.22, 0.33, 0.47, 0.68, 1.0, and 1.5uF capacitors and place in a small box mounted on the handlebars and have on-demand, fully adjustable timing for any driving condition!
Just tested it on my BT80 motorized bike engine with the blue box CDI. Before, it didn't want to pull much past 5500rpm with 13:1 gearing. Tonight, I got her up to 7000 (about 40mph). Definitely made a difference!
Oh 8 months on CZcams and I'm struggling with diy digital CDIs and stuff for a month, for something a single capacitor will give me. Excellent! On Honda AF18 clone motor I had 17° BTDC stock, I needed curve to hit 10° at 9000, tried 200nF czcams.com/video/cm0mo0mzO6Y/video.html , that was even too much, so finally 100nF did the trick. Head temperature went down from 135°C to about 110°C and more power! Most value for money of any mods I've done so far!
I did this to my China bicycle gas motor kit, works great! Nice power and RPM boost, less vibration and stink, all for just 60 cents! Just make sure to use the right voltage cap and it's all good
Would you mind sharing exactly where you connected this capacitor? I'm trying to do this to mine, so far I have plugged the leads of two different value capacitors, 0.47 and when it didn't run right an 0.33uF, into where the kill switch wires plug into the coil to magneto wires. I just slipped the capacitor leads into the connectors and plugged in the kill switch to hold them in. However the engine doesn't run properly, it seems like it only fires once every few revolutions. So what am I doing wrong here?
@@xcliff58x Yeah I just stuck one leg in the timing/killswitch junction and one leg in the ground/killswitch junction. I had that same odd 4-stroking kinda effect when I used the wrong voltage, like a 100 volt capacitor. I think I'm successfully using a 50v cap right now
Wow so that's it. My 0.47uF is 400v, and my 0.33uF is 250v. Normally the voltage never matters on a capacitor, as long as it's not too low. I guess these ignitions don't even comply to basic electronic theory, let alone reasonable things such as quality control. Okay thank you
@@xcliff58x Well look my electrical experience is minimal at best, I can't claim to understand much of how this mod works at all. I think however the "variable timing" retardation effect depends on the capacitor "saturating" whatever that means. I also heard the average magneto in these motor kits produces only 50-100v at most, so I'd think that a cap with too high of a voltage would just add a constant delay rather than varying it's delay as the power flow increases. Also I'm pretty sure the resistance of the cap/the whole circuit affects how quickly the cap charges, so in theory it should be possible to vary the voltage, capacity, and resistance to produce an "optimal" timing curve. My ultimate quest is to set my magneto advance to basically 0 and have a perfectly tuned cap that allows the CDI's inbuilt advance to dominate at lower RPM, then the cap's retardation effect would gradually begin to dominate at higher RPM providing a clean, optimal timing curve all the way from low to highest RPM
@@NLynchOEcake sounds like you know a whole lot more about this than I do. I thought this was going to be a simple cheap plug and play thing. I think rather than buying any more capacitors I'll just buy the components to build a copy of the Jaguar CDI, and a coil to go with it, and be done with it. Thank you for your time and expertise, and good luck with your quest
I jammed mine in the back of the cdi connector "pulse generator" wire which was blue/ yellow and ground which was green don't know if it did anything though
Nope, in simple terms you would think that as the revs rise the timing needs to advance but on a 2 stroke it needs to retard as the revs rise, this is due to the higher burn rate as the engine comes on to the pipe. Basically as things like the pipe and intake resonance start to work the cylinder gets a better 'fill' of fresh charge, in fact the volumetric efficiency (VE) of the engine can go over 100%. This means that the initial cylinder pressure before the plug fires the mixture is higher and this in turn results in a higher flame speed. The idea behind all this is to get maximum cylinder pressure after the plug fires at around 14 to 20 degrees after TDC.
I have an Hitachi stator with inner rotor for a Hiro 125 1981 Engine. I connected the AC and trigger to the red and blue wires and I have a healthy spark that I have correctly set using a timing lamp. I purchased 0.47 mfd capacitor just like yours. I do get a retardation but when I increase the RPM a bit I lose the spark. The green led still flashes on the CDI but no spark. If I disconnect the capacitor I have a spark as fast as my drilling machine goes. It obviously doesn't work with all stators.
I know this is an old post I wanna know what made you go with that orange coil I know there a little pricey so? And I heard they don’t make much if any difference a?
@@190mech1 Thanks for the reply, It was more of a question? I figured it didn't make much difference if any. I guess we better not Tell the people buying them on eBay for $63 -$79 Crazy.
All you have to do is put the capacitor between the pulser and the black box. The side of the capacitor with stripe/marking running down one side is the in + and the other side is to be connected to the black box pulser cable where you would normally connect the pulser cable. It is that simple.
@@shannonking6639 thanks for the info . I have question the pulsar have one wire i have to connect the positive from the capacitor on the pickup or pulsar and the negative of the capacitor to the cdi ? Right?
I bought a 47uf 250 volt capacitor this morning as i couldn't find a 200 volt one. I did attach it onto my scooter ignition. i could feel a difference on starting my bike and during riding. However as it rained here i crack open the throttle to discover how the top end fifth gear would react wide open.
Thank you for taking the time to share with us all. I am using that very same black box with a scooter ignition on a 50cc Suzuki 5 speed motorcycle. I was told that these boxes are for the Yamaha TZR and the Yamaha Jog scooter as a replacement. Until seeing your video i wasn't aware that they didn't have a curve. They do however create a larger spark than an original box on the ignition that they are substituting for and that was a reason i am using one rather than a original black box along with the scooter ignition.
On my setup I was able to just ram the cap into the killswitch junction, tape it up with electrical tape, and call it a day. Just need it to bridge between ground and the timing wire anywhere on the circuit. In theory you could just run an extra wire from the timing wire into the magneto housing and tape one of the legs to the case ground, or just splice it directly onto the timing wire inside the case
@@NLynchOEcake ah okay. I didn't know if I would connect it to the red and white wire from the pick up and ground it while having the rest of the wire connected to the cdi. I'm really bad at wiring unless I see it being done.
Taking it one step further, get a 10 position rotary switch wire it up with 0.1, 0.15, 0.22, 0.33, 0.47, 0.68, 1.0, and 1.5uF capacitors and place in a small box mounted on the handlebars and have on-demand, fully adjustable timing for any driving condition!
Who would think something so simple would work so well.
Just tested it on my BT80 motorized bike engine with the blue box CDI. Before, it didn't want to pull much past 5500rpm with 13:1 gearing. Tonight, I got her up to 7000 (about 40mph). Definitely made a difference!
How did you install the cdi blue box on your bicycle engine
Nice vid John! The vintage vespa 2t community should be very interested in this as they also have "flat liner" ignitions.
Oh 8 months on CZcams and I'm struggling with diy digital CDIs and stuff for a month, for something a single capacitor will give me. Excellent! On Honda AF18 clone motor I had 17° BTDC stock, I needed curve to hit 10° at 9000, tried 200nF czcams.com/video/cm0mo0mzO6Y/video.html , that was even too much, so finally 100nF did the trick. Head temperature went down from 135°C to about 110°C and more power! Most value for money of any mods I've done so far!
how would i install this capacitor on an 1100 virago ? single pickup coil -- two wires -- + and - , both go to cdi .
Excellent demonstration! Now on my to do list.
I did this to my China bicycle gas motor kit, works great! Nice power and RPM boost, less vibration and stink, all for just 60 cents! Just make sure to use the right voltage cap and it's all good
Would you mind sharing exactly where you connected this capacitor? I'm trying to do this to mine, so far I have plugged the leads of two different value capacitors, 0.47 and when it didn't run right an 0.33uF, into where the kill switch wires plug into the coil to magneto wires. I just slipped the capacitor leads into the connectors and plugged in the kill switch to hold them in. However the engine doesn't run properly, it seems like it only fires once every few revolutions. So what am I doing wrong here?
@@xcliff58x Yeah I just stuck one leg in the timing/killswitch junction and one leg in the ground/killswitch junction. I had that same odd 4-stroking kinda effect when I used the wrong voltage, like a 100 volt capacitor. I think I'm successfully using a 50v cap right now
Wow so that's it. My 0.47uF is 400v, and my 0.33uF is 250v. Normally the voltage never matters on a capacitor, as long as it's not too low. I guess these ignitions don't even comply to basic electronic theory, let alone reasonable things such as quality control. Okay thank you
@@xcliff58x Well look my electrical experience is minimal at best, I can't claim to understand much of how this mod works at all. I think however the "variable timing" retardation effect depends on the capacitor "saturating" whatever that means. I also heard the average magneto in these motor kits produces only 50-100v at most, so I'd think that a cap with too high of a voltage would just add a constant delay rather than varying it's delay as the power flow increases. Also I'm pretty sure the resistance of the cap/the whole circuit affects how quickly the cap charges, so in theory it should be possible to vary the voltage, capacity, and resistance to produce an "optimal" timing curve. My ultimate quest is to set my magneto advance to basically 0 and have a perfectly tuned cap that allows the CDI's inbuilt advance to dominate at lower RPM, then the cap's retardation effect would gradually begin to dominate at higher RPM providing a clean, optimal timing curve all the way from low to highest RPM
@@NLynchOEcake sounds like you know a whole lot more about this than I do. I thought this was going to be a simple cheap plug and play thing. I think rather than buying any more capacitors I'll just buy the components to build a copy of the Jaguar CDI, and a coil to go with it, and be done with it. Thank you for your time and expertise, and good luck with your quest
What should the timing be when cranking.. my atv sounds bad and won't start
Rhanks man for the info , you prevent me of baying the thing for this purpose, does a bigger capacitor give more or less ignition delay ?
Please make a drawing how and where the cable and capiciter should go. Many thanx
I jammed mine in the back of the cdi connector "pulse generator" wire which was blue/ yellow and ground which was green don't know if it did anything though
Glad its working for you!!!
Im trying To make a misfire system for my 50cc 4stroke skyteam monkey using capasitors.
any tips? if anyone has any xd
isn't this doing exactly what you don't want it to do? don't you want the timing to advance as the rpm increase?
Nope, in simple terms you would think that as the revs rise the timing needs to advance but on a 2 stroke it needs to retard as the revs rise, this is due to the higher burn rate as the engine comes on to the pipe. Basically as things like the pipe and intake resonance start to work the cylinder gets a better 'fill' of fresh charge, in fact the volumetric efficiency (VE) of the engine can go over 100%. This means that the initial cylinder pressure before the plug fires the mixture is higher and this in turn results in a higher flame speed. The idea behind all this is to get maximum cylinder pressure after the plug fires at around 14 to 20 degrees after TDC.
Another purpose for it is to regard the ignition to reduce kickback when starting.
Nice one, can you provide wiring diagram how to connect this ? and a link or pictures on this .47 Microfarad Capacitor ? Thanks
will this work on a stock timing?if not how much advance should i do?thanks..
I have an Hitachi stator with inner rotor for a Hiro 125 1981 Engine. I connected the AC and trigger to the red and blue wires and I have a healthy spark that I have correctly set using a timing lamp. I purchased 0.47 mfd capacitor just like yours. I do get a retardation but when I increase the RPM a bit I lose the spark. The green led still flashes on the CDI but no spark. If I disconnect the capacitor I have a spark as fast as my drilling machine goes.
It obviously doesn't work with all stators.
Correct,it does not work with inner rotor ignitions..
is 50v also good?
I know this is an old post I wanna know what made you go with that orange coil I know there a little pricey so? And I heard they don’t make much if any difference a?
The orange coil was a freeby with a cylinder kit,you are right it makes no difference in spark energy!
@@190mech1 Thanks for the reply, It was more of a question? I figured it didn't make much difference if any. I guess we better not Tell the people buying them on eBay for $63 -$79 Crazy.
Does this only work on the AC CDI ? I'm interested to know if it works on a DC CDI for a 2 stroke.
If it has a pulse coil, it should work,
Will adding a capacitor lower my rpm limit/cut? My bike rev bounces at a very high rpm and i want to lower it more..
These aftermarket cdi have no rev limit
Is it an ac capaciter or a DC capacitor you use ?
A/c
Hi can i use for dc fixed cdi?
Hi, How many farad we use to retard 1degree of ignition timing
Can you show me which wires to connect the capacitor to which colours etc..
All you have to do is put the capacitor between the pulser and the black box. The side of the capacitor with stripe/marking running down one side is the in + and the other side is to be connected to the black box pulser cable where you would normally connect the pulser cable. It is that simple.
@@shannonking6639 the capacitor is connected to the pulser and the other connection is tap on the ground right?
@@shannonking6639 thanks for the info . I have question the pulsar have one wire i have to connect the positive from the capacitor on the pickup or pulsar and the negative of the capacitor to the cdi ? Right?
Hello, how much volts does the capacitor have to be to work with the CDI ignition ?
200 Volt
I bought a 47uf 250 volt capacitor this morning as i couldn't find a 200 volt one. I did attach it onto my scooter ignition. i could feel a difference on starting my bike and during riding. However as it rained here i crack open the throttle to discover how the top end fifth gear would react wide open.
Thank you for taking the time to share with us all. I am using that very same black box with a scooter ignition on a 50cc Suzuki 5 speed motorcycle. I was told that these boxes are for the Yamaha TZR and the Yamaha Jog scooter as a replacement. Until seeing your video i wasn't aware that they didn't have a curve. They do however create a larger spark than an original box on the ignition that they are substituting for and that was a reason i am using one rather than a original black box along with the scooter ignition.
@@shannonking6639 its a 0.47 uF ... how did it work wide throttle?
Can you do this on a stock cdi?
So, how is this wired?
On my setup I was able to just ram the cap into the killswitch junction, tape it up with electrical tape, and call it a day. Just need it to bridge between ground and the timing wire anywhere on the circuit. In theory you could just run an extra wire from the timing wire into the magneto housing and tape one of the legs to the case ground, or just splice it directly onto the timing wire inside the case
@@NLynchOEcake ah okay. I didn't know if I would connect it to the red and white wire from the pick up and ground it while having the rest of the wire connected to the cdi. I'm really bad at wiring unless I see it being done.
47 or 0.47 micro Farad?
0.47 mfd
@@190mech1 where he add a capacitor ?
So you install a 0.47 mf capacitor on the pick up coil ground?