yup. my chain feels tight also. thanks for the video, saved me from looking into it any further..I was going to purchase a service manual soon, but if you keep uploading these videos, I won't have to! thanks
Good video ...its s good job you checked the recommended slack before you adjusted it...!!!!! i adjusted mine recently and i was surprised too how tight the chain should be...but THEY know best ...THEY built it !!! I've measured both side to the same measuring line ..its difficult to measure another way..unless you have some more suggestions???..Thank you for you vids VERY INFORMATIVE!!!!;-)
Thanks for the tips on the chain. I have a random question. Have you notice on your XSR900 the 1st gear will not be display but every other gear are shown. Hope i can get your thoughts on this. Thank you good and very helpful video.
Just did mine today and it had 1.25” slack . I adjusted it to 3/4” and it felt tight to me and made some noise that I was curious if it was ok . The way it ran previous it did have some snappy chain movement that I was thinking was too much . Apart from the noise change I felt it ran smoother than before . I did adjust my rear shock to 2 notches harder also . I used a caliber gauge to measure the exact distance from the rear adjuster and the inner casting of the swing arm on each side . Took me about 3 tries back and forth . I then ran a laser down the chain and it looked straight and then I used a metal square and ran it along the side of the sprocket and about 15” inward to the front sprocket the chain links matched exactly as the rear sprocket so I know it’s exact . The read adjuster marks and the adjuster nuts are not very calibrated for slight adjustments , they are just guides . Good video buddy 👍🏻
DaBinChe , I adjusted exactly where the manual said to check approx exactly at the tire / muffler gap that coincided with the chain . It’s approx 1/2 way I think anyways from sprocket to sprocket .
DaBinChe , no mine was completely equal . I believe if you spin the wheel and see variations in slack and tight there may be a sprocket alignment issue to begin . My manual (2016 FJ09 ) said use centre stand and rear wheel off the ground . This keeps the chain with no vertical stress so it sits as it wants horizontally . Because the wheel was supported off the ground it could spin easy . I had just re lubricated the chain also since I had cleaned and lubed it a week ago but felt I should re do it again from some heavy riding . The entire reason I wanted to adjust my chain was due to the manual saying that the maximum slack was around 1” . They give it in mm so 25.4 mm per inch . Mine was way over the 25.4 . I watched another video and the guy had 100 miles on a new FZ09 and he thought it was too tight but measured the slack and it was fine . Somehow Yamaha wants it to have a low tolerance of slack . I get it but the new noise I heard while rolling down a long hill made me think it’s too tight . It must be the normal sound as I was only used to how it sounded when I got it 2.5 months ago . It had 6000 Km on it then and the chain was slack with no noise but it did have a bit of drive snap ( when your chain feels jerky ) . Much smoother ride yesterday when I was done so it’s a new world now ...........
@@241Tsunami There is a certain tolerance in concentricity of the chainring, also mounting has tolerance too. Those two will cause tight and loose spots as the wheel spins. Usually if the chain is really loose you won't fee them but as they get to proper slackness you can feel the tight spot
Just wanted to point out that when you measure the slack you should make your first point on the ruler with no finger on chain...then push UP with finger lightly untill chain doesn't want to move, then mark second point. That's your range. You should be pressing down.
everyone always has an opinion but the manufacturer knows best, I think Yamaha knows their shit. But really what the chain slack is has to do with the location of three points: the center of the front and rear sprocket and the pivot point of the swing arm. The more in line they are while sitting or with a rider on the less slack is needed. Once those three points line up that is the longest length
just asked Yamaha dealership today and they told that this is very independent on the rider weight. when adjusting for 5-15mm when no weight is applied that meant once you will seat on the bike the chain will be extremely tight. try to pull the clutch when driving 50mph and listen if the chain whining
I also think that Yamaha should know their business. It's also true and logical what you say about those 3 points. I think the simplest way to make sure if the slack of 5-15 mm given in the manual is correct is to adjust the chain just like that, sit on the bike and check if the chain tightens even more or losens up. If it gets even more tight then, I think, we should give it more slack (about 25-30 mm) when being on the side stand or on a padock stand. If it losens up a bit, then we should stick to the values given in the manual. The thing is, that normally - looking from the side - a swingarms end is angled downwards, so if the swingarm goes upwards (when you sit up on the bike) then the distance to the sprocket axle "grows" and the chain tightens up. But there also bikes where you reach this maximum distance when the bike is unloaded and the distance between the rear axle and sprocket axle decreaes when you put load/sit on the bike. So, I think the best solution is to check and not trust the manual blindly :) BTW: I've ordered a 2017 Yamaha MT-09 (FZ09 in the US) which should arrive in March. Will be my first Yamaha :)
I had mine manual tight and took it into my local Yam dealer and they said it was way to tight. I told them that the manual said to do it that tight and they were surprised. The thing is when your bum is on the seat the chain tightens so do it with with that in mind. Also the mechanic said if it's to tight it can wear out the front sprocket bearings prematurely.
how slack/tight is actually dependent on three center points: rear axle, swing arm pivot, and front sprocket. Once those three points lines up that is the longest distance and the chain needs to have just a little slack. The XSR900 sitting static those three points are very close to lining up so that is why it has a fairly tight chain. Compared to say a dirt bike sitting static those three points are not as lined up.
ive ridden mine for 8000 miles now and ive noticed that there are big differences in tension on the chain...at the point when its half an inch at the tightest spot its then nearly 2 inch at the slackest spot and very loose and when its one inch at the slackest spot its almost unmovable at the tightest spot ?????? what do you think????which do i choose???
check for kinks in the chain and check your sprockets, might be time for a new chain, stock ones don't last long. Longest lasting chain is DID ZVMX also replace sprockets too when replacing a chain
Where are you taking the measurement? I take mine at the end of the bottom chain guide. Bout an inch play but used to be much tighter but they told me otherwise lol. You just don't want it slapping while riding.
Dan T I'm taking the measurements from the middle of the bottom section .. where the manual says check it ... if I have the tightest point anywhere near an inch the slackest part would be far too loose .. the manual says that if it is greater than an inch it can damage the bike .. very worrying.. it's hard to know which is right as the limits are less than an inch .. ???
These bikes run a very tight chain. That's all... It won't ruin anything lol. Sprockets and chain will wear because thats what they do. This bike is a torque demon and its meant to have a tight chain. Nothing to worry about. If you run TOO MUCH slack then you can cause premature wear on sprockets because its designed to be tight, all that power is transferred straight to the tire with a tight chain. Slack will gouge your sprockets over time.
First you need to throw this video away or retitle it. I dialed in for the most important piece of information which you failed to mention, socket size and torque setting. You need to also rehearse watch it yourself so you don’t make the viewer wait while you collect your thoughts. Secondly some information was good but you definitely need to head back to the drawing board. Thanks for the effort.
This is almost painful to watch. No one cares how much you paid for a manual, it's a rear stand, not a center stand, and get to the point, stop rambling!
Watched this video a few times and checked my chain. It was also tight but fit the specs. Thanks again for your xsr900 uploads 👍🏽
yup. my chain feels tight also. thanks for the video, saved me from looking into it any further..I was going to purchase a service manual soon, but if you keep uploading these videos, I won't have to! thanks
Great videos man! Thanks for all of them. Keep up the good work.
Love your vids man...hard to find a lot of videos of people servicing xsr900s
thanks
Great information! Thank you for sharing.
Good video ...its s good job you checked the recommended slack before you adjusted it...!!!!! i adjusted mine recently and i was surprised too how tight the chain should be...but THEY know best ...THEY built it !!! I've measured both side to the same measuring line ..its difficult to measure another way..unless you have some more suggestions???..Thank you for you vids VERY INFORMATIVE!!!!;-)
Thanks for the tips on the chain. I have a random question. Have you notice on your XSR900 the 1st gear will not be display but every other gear are shown. Hope i can get your thoughts on this. Thank you good and very helpful video.
Just did mine today and it had 1.25” slack . I adjusted it to 3/4” and it felt tight to me and made some noise that I was curious if it was ok . The way it ran previous it did have some snappy chain movement that I was thinking was too much . Apart from the noise change I felt it ran smoother than before . I did adjust my rear shock to 2 notches harder also .
I used a caliber gauge to measure the exact distance from the rear adjuster and the inner casting of the swing arm on each side . Took me about 3 tries back and forth . I then ran a laser down the chain and it looked straight and then I used a metal square and ran it along the side of the sprocket and about 15” inward to the front sprocket the chain links matched exactly as the rear sprocket so I know it’s exact .
The read adjuster marks and the adjuster nuts are not very calibrated for slight adjustments , they are just guides .
Good video buddy 👍🏻
Did you adjust from the tightest point in the chain?
DaBinChe , I adjusted exactly where the manual said to check approx exactly at the tire / muffler gap that coincided with the chain . It’s approx 1/2 way I think anyways from sprocket to sprocket .
@@241Tsunami I mean did you spin the rear wheel as you feel the chain slack and tighten? That is how you find the tight spot.
DaBinChe , no mine was completely equal . I believe if you spin the wheel and see variations in slack and tight there may be a sprocket alignment issue to begin .
My manual (2016 FJ09 ) said use centre stand and rear wheel off the ground . This keeps the chain with no vertical stress so it sits as it wants horizontally . Because the wheel was supported off the ground it could spin easy . I had just re lubricated the chain also since I had cleaned and lubed it a week ago but felt I should re do it again from some heavy riding . The entire reason I wanted to adjust my chain was due to the manual saying that the maximum slack was around 1” . They give it in mm so 25.4 mm per inch . Mine was way over the 25.4 . I watched another video and the guy had 100 miles on a new FZ09 and he thought it was too tight but measured the slack and it was fine . Somehow Yamaha wants it to have a low tolerance of slack . I get it but the new noise I heard while rolling down a long hill made me think it’s too tight . It must be the normal sound as I was only used to how it sounded when I got it 2.5 months ago . It had 6000 Km on it then and the chain was slack with no noise but it did have a bit of drive snap ( when your chain feels jerky ) .
Much smoother ride yesterday when I was done so it’s a new world now ...........
@@241Tsunami There is a certain tolerance in concentricity of the chainring, also mounting has tolerance too. Those two will cause tight and loose spots as the wheel spins. Usually if the chain is really loose you won't fee them but as they get to proper slackness you can feel the tight spot
Just wanted to point out that when you measure the slack you should make your first point on the ruler with no finger on chain...then push UP with finger lightly untill chain doesn't want to move, then mark second point. That's your range. You should be pressing down.
on forums everyone says not to go with manual settings because it will wear out much faster :(
everyone always has an opinion but the manufacturer knows best, I think Yamaha knows their shit. But really what the chain slack is has to do with the location of three points: the center of the front and rear sprocket and the pivot point of the swing arm. The more in line they are while sitting or with a rider on the less slack is needed. Once those three points line up that is the longest length
just asked Yamaha dealership today and they told that this is very independent on the rider weight.
when adjusting for 5-15mm when no weight is applied that meant once you will seat on the bike the chain will be extremely tight. try to pull the clutch when driving 50mph and listen if the chain whining
I also think that Yamaha should know their business. It's also true and logical what you say about those 3 points. I think the simplest way to make sure if the slack of 5-15 mm given in the manual is correct is to adjust the chain just like that, sit on the bike and check if the chain tightens even more or losens up. If it gets even more tight then, I think, we should give it more slack (about 25-30 mm) when being on the side stand or on a padock stand. If it losens up a bit, then we should stick to the values given in the manual.
The thing is, that normally - looking from the side - a swingarms end is angled downwards, so if the swingarm goes upwards (when you sit up on the bike) then the distance to the sprocket axle "grows" and the chain tightens up. But there also bikes where you reach this maximum distance when the bike is unloaded and the distance between the rear axle and sprocket axle decreaes when you put load/sit on the bike.
So, I think the best solution is to check and not trust the manual blindly :)
BTW: I've ordered a 2017 Yamaha MT-09 (FZ09 in the US) which should arrive in March. Will be my first Yamaha :)
Péter Oláh mt 09 update!
Ба ла бол
I had mine manual tight and took it into my local Yam dealer and they said it was way to tight. I told them that the manual said to do it that tight and they were surprised. The thing is when your bum is on the seat the chain tightens so do it with with that in mind. Also the mechanic said if it's to tight it can wear out the front sprocket bearings prematurely.
how slack/tight is actually dependent on three center points: rear axle, swing arm pivot, and front sprocket. Once those three points lines up that is the longest distance and the chain needs to have just a little slack. The XSR900 sitting static those three points are very close to lining up so that is why it has a fairly tight chain. Compared to say a dirt bike sitting static those three points are not as lined up.
ive ridden mine for 8000 miles now and ive noticed that there are big differences in tension on the chain...at the point when its half an inch at the tightest spot its then nearly 2 inch at the slackest spot and very loose and when its one inch at the slackest spot its almost unmovable at the tightest spot ?????? what do you think????which do i choose???
check for kinks in the chain and check your sprockets, might be time for a new chain, stock ones don't last long. Longest lasting chain is DID ZVMX also replace sprockets too when replacing a chain
Where are you taking the measurement?
I take mine at the end of the bottom chain guide. Bout an inch play but used to be much tighter but they told me otherwise lol. You just don't want it slapping while riding.
Dan T I'm taking the measurements from the middle of the bottom section .. where the manual says check it ... if I have the tightest point anywhere near an inch the slackest part would be far too loose .. the manual says that if it is greater than an inch it can damage the bike .. very worrying.. it's hard to know which is right as the limits are less than an inch .. ???
That is a rear-stand.... Not a Center Stand am I right?
A center stand would raise the bike from the frame, completely unloading the rear suspension.
yes rear stand not center stand
Why adjust on stend not on the floor
much easier and faster, you need to find the tight spot first
Why not stick to giving just metric measurements as per the manual?
cause my tape measure is in inches
These bikes run a very tight chain. That's all... It won't ruin anything lol. Sprockets and chain will wear because thats what they do. This bike is a torque demon and its meant to have a tight chain. Nothing to worry about. If you run TOO MUCH slack then you can cause premature wear on sprockets because its designed to be tight, all that power is transferred straight to the tire with a tight chain. Slack will gouge your sprockets over time.
15-25 mm is the right
I leave it on the looser side.
First you need to throw this video away or retitle it. I dialed in for the most important piece of information which you failed to mention, socket size and torque setting. You need to also rehearse watch it yourself so you don’t make the viewer wait while you collect your thoughts. Secondly some information was good but you definitely need to head back to the drawing board. Thanks for the effort.
This is almost painful to watch. No one cares how much you paid for a manual, it's a rear stand, not a center stand, and get to the point, stop rambling!
Good don't watch. Ungrateful folks like you aren't wanted. Buy your own manaual instead of para-siting of others. Make your own videos and be gone.
FWD....You are a special kind of dick.