I was wondering if anyone tried this so I searched CZcams and bam! Someone did try it. So I did this today and it worked pretty well. Hard part was filing and sanding to make it even. But I can tell people that at least for day 1 , it works just as planned! Thank you.
Incredible mate. I just gave my Custom Les Paul a brand new lease on life. Legend. Easy too do. 6 frets i did, and 3 bad wear points on each fret as well. The flux is the key and good tools. Cheers and thanks heaps.
Great idea! I've got a 43 year old Yamaha acoustic which has a few shallow wear spots and one deep one. I've just removed the strings getting ready to replace frets when I saw this video. The fretboard is so nicely aged that I'm afraid to pull frets so I'm going for this solution first. Thanks for the inspiration.
@@cristianabraham384 It lasted with limited playing, so it was a good fix. I'm redoing the frets again only using a harder soldering paste. I now have fret gauge, level, files etc. so it'll be a fun project to bring the guitar back to playing standard.
That's brilliant, that is. Good jeweler's quality silver solder is a lot harder than most understand if all they've done is tin/lead solder. Going to give this a go on an old Telecaster Deluxe I've got laying around. Thanks!
Thanks so much for this video! I just got an awesome hh Strat from 2001 that has some bad fret wear on the first few frets. I'm going to practice on an old Squier neck a few times first though
I have the same problem and just three or four days ago I'm thinking almost at the same solution. I have a special tin with silver for audio connections, seems a good idea use it because is more hard than simple tin... Anyway I hope that this solve my problem... Nice video!!! :-)!!!
Absolutely genius mate. Also you may have said but Laco flux is the best because it cleans as it solders so it bonds better. I think you've saved me a fair few quid. Cheers
Very cool. I am going to try this on my BC Rich Virgin. I have a few frets with some major wear. Thanks for the tip. I'll repost after it is complete. Be well.
Sounds like a great tip. Going to try it on Encore guitar I bought in England 15 years ago. It sounds and plays as good as any Fender I've tried. Apart for the dead spots now,so if I can save this guitar I'd be very happy. Thanks.
Very good! I have been thinking about modifying the first guitar I ever got, which was an Epiphone Les Paul, and I just don't think it makes sense to pay over a hundered quid to refret the guitar concidering the price of the instrument to begin with. So thank you very much. I will be trying this out soon. :)
Hi James I've stripped too many to mention and I hate doing it it's time consuming and unless it's a sunburst it's risky fender use diffrent grade woods for diffrent finishes so a sunburst or a natural will be an A much like gibson do but a flat colour like red black white ect will be a lower grade with very little grain. I've stripped strats that have had knots in them so it's a risky move.Anyway you have been warned never use heat, heat will only remove the clear and base coat the mistake people make is they think they have got down to wood once the paint is removed but you have a clear sealer layer that goes right into the grain that needs to be removed with paint stripper so you may as well use a good quality stripper and a furniture scrapper. A tip do the hard parts first like the edges and the cut aways. Let the stripper do it's job put it on thick and leave it to bubble don't use anything other that a furniture scrapper or you may dig in if the finish won't come off don't just rub harder put more on and and leave it and move on to another spot nothing worse that scratches and chunks missing if you do it right then it should take you three days to strip one that includes rubbing down with diffrent grit papers. If you want to test if your down to wood wet your finger and rub the wood if it sinks in your down to it. My opinion is to relic it if it's beaten up then it tells a story you can help it along abit with some gentle rubbing down around the damaged area teles look great with wear if you have any problems you can email me on sixtytwostiggy@gmail.com I'm always happy to help
About using solder and flux. Use high silver content Solder,Not the cheap Or the soft stuff... Flux is corrosive. Make sure you get it off of the wood of your fretboard and even off of the fret... I am going to do this on a Yamaha Pacifica 312 that I just bought with heavy fret wear... either this guitar I’ve bought used has soft frets, or somebody played this guitar one hell of a lot. Even part of the Rosewood is worn, all the way up the neck.
Nice idea, and definitely worth trying. I've just levelled the frets on an acoustic that had severe wear at just the first few frets, so if I'd known about this method, I may have saved myself some sanding. Ah well, next time.
Okay so I have a Stratocaster type guitar and the 4th string second fret was dead so I tried sanding the second fret down and now the whole first three frets just buzz abs don't make and sound HELP??!?
Great video! I have a guitar with a low first fret. The guitar is less then an year old and the frets are fresh. Is it possible to do this trick on a whole fret? Will it stick? It would be more interesting to add something to the 1st fret then to level and redress all the other frets.
Hi mate filling a fret divet is one thing but a whole fret is risky personally I would do it properly if it's a new guitar it's more likely the whole fret job is poor and the others are high the best way to deal with this is to get yourself a strip of brass quite cheap off ebay afew pounds the brass is soft so it won't damage the frets and a steel ruler support your neck with a large phone book and some towels then get a small hammer and tap the ones around it gently five frets on either side should do it go easy don't smash them it's likely that the others weren't pressed in enough when the neck was made keep checking it with a ruler as you do then re string and set up again it should hopefully solve your problem any other problems email me on sixtytwostiggy@gmail.com
fantastic video thanks man - I just got a 87 contemporary Jap Telecaster with chunks missing off the finish, have you ever stripped the finish off a guitar whats best heat gun or sanding or ive even seen some fellas use a chisel
While its true that lead solder is soft the new lead free solder is harder and when used with flux it is hard as the frets themselves I've had a tokai strat with that repair done for seven years and they are as good as the day they where done
I did this once when I nicked a fret on a neck I was scalloping. Can't remember what fret it was. I used lead free silver solder. I wonder what is the hardest solder and why someone hasn't invented a fret resurfacing machine.
Please help me, you look like you know your stuff. I've got a strat from the 80s given to me with a fret that sticks out at around the 18th fret that's stops me being able to play from 15th fret up. What do I do? Thank you.
+Cidraque did you use lead free lead solider is very soft and can rub off ? I have had the repair for two years on my old squire and play it daily strange yours didn't last.
That is true however it's lead free solder which isn't as soft and I've had tokai strat with it done for seven years and just as good as the day it was done
Hi dev aslong as you are carefull and don't leave the iron on the frets too long you will be fine on any guitar take your time mask up before you do it and protect your fretboard whilst leveling the frets
Cid Casciato hi mate I used a modern led free good quality solder. The repair will last a while depends how you play. It will never replace a refret but of you have a guitar you love and can't afford to repair then it's a good temp do a for a few months
Thanks Jakesdaddy08 hit subscribe and if you have any questions ect inbox me just a tip make sure you don't hold the soldering iron on too long as it could dislodge the fret and also make sure you buy lead free solder and it will last for years
This doesn't work well. The material (welding) used is an alloy of lead and tin, it's way too soft. This means that, beside the extremely quick wear, vibratos and bends suffer too. I know, I already tried this many years ago, as a beginner.
As long as you use lead free solder and a descent flux you will be fine I've had a beaten up old strat that's been played to hell and nearly all the frets are done with it and I've never seen so much as a mark over the repairs it's never going to beat a fret job but if you can't afford to do it or the guitar dosnt warrant the cash spent or even if you don't feel confident doing a refret then it will last a few years DONT us lead solder it is to soft and not to mention it's bloody nasty stuff get a good quality lead free solder from a maplin or home depo
+Captain Freedom Do it if you want, no one here cares. but this is just a hack, not a fix. It is still solder. not fret wire. And fret wire does not melt with a soldering iron
Just go easy use a hobby iron not a really powerful one your not heading the fret up your just warming the flux to allow the solder to flow I've done atleast thirty guitars over the years and never lost a fret yet
I was wondering if anyone tried this so I searched CZcams and bam! Someone did try it. So I did this today and it worked pretty well. Hard part was filing and sanding to make it even. But I can tell people that at least for day 1 , it works just as planned! Thank you.
Incredible mate. I just gave my Custom Les Paul a brand new lease on life. Legend. Easy too do. 6 frets i did, and 3 bad wear points on each fret as well. The flux is the key and good tools. Cheers and thanks heaps.
Great idea! I've got a 43 year old Yamaha acoustic which has a few shallow wear spots and one deep one. I've just removed the strings getting ready to replace frets when I saw this video. The fretboard is so nicely aged that I'm afraid to pull frets so I'm going for this solution first. Thanks for the inspiration.
Sweet! Just went to a shop to see $ for replacing a few frets on my guitar. For the cost I can buy a new one. Sooo, I'll try this instead.
Thanks man!
So, 5 years later after off and on playing I'm giving fret another soldering. Great inexpensive fix.
@@RobertVianiso it lasted 5 years?
It lasted 5 years really ?
@@cristianabraham384 It lasted with limited playing, so it was a good fix. I'm redoing the frets again only using a harder soldering paste. I now have fret gauge, level, files etc. so it'll be a fun project to bring the guitar back to playing standard.
That's brilliant, that is. Good jeweler's quality silver solder is a lot harder than most understand if all they've done is tin/lead solder. Going to give this a go on an old Telecaster Deluxe I've got laying around. Thanks!
Thanks man, from a poor guitar player!!! brilliant!! Cheers. I am now subscribed!!
Stiggy, thanks a bunch for this tip. I wasn't sure what i was going to do and didn't want to pay that big fee on the fret job. Take care bud.
Thanks a ton for this! I've got a couple guitars. Just tried this on my older one before trying it on my new one and so far so good!
Thanks so much for this video! I just got an awesome hh Strat from 2001 that has some bad fret wear on the first few frets. I'm going to practice on an old Squier neck a few times first though
I have the same problem and just three or four days ago I'm thinking almost at the same solution. I have a special tin with silver for audio connections, seems a good idea use it because is more hard than simple tin... Anyway I hope that this solve my problem... Nice video!!! :-)!!!
Absolutely genius mate. Also you may have said but Laco flux is the best because it cleans as it solders so it bonds better.
I think you've saved me a fair few quid. Cheers
Excellent tip. It works filing is a bit fiddly took me about an hour and a half to fix 5 frets. Thankyou no more buzzes.
humanityfirstnow Glad you like it mate won't last forever if you rock the guitar hard but it can always be done again
yeah exactly it saved me about 100 Euros which a refret would have cost.
Very cool. I am going to try this on my BC Rich Virgin. I have a few frets with some major wear. Thanks for the tip. I'll repost after it is complete. Be well.
Solder is soft. How long does it take for that solder to be worn away?
Any ideas on how to clean the wood. There is some white powder stuck in the grain of the wood.
Halcyon Rubbing alcohol and Q-tips?
Saved my life. Outstanding. Thank you, sir.
Brilliant. Simple and effective. Thanks for the info.
Sounds like a great tip. Going to try it on Encore guitar I bought in England 15 years ago. It sounds and plays as good as any Fender I've tried. Apart for the dead spots now,so if I can save this guitar I'd be very happy. Thanks.
Very good! I have been thinking about modifying the first guitar I ever got, which was an Epiphone Les Paul, and I just don't think it makes sense to pay over a hundered quid to refret the guitar concidering the price of the instrument to begin with.
So thank you very much. I will be trying this out soon. :)
Thanks for this tutorial! I tried it yesterday on a bass neck, and so far, so good!
Hi James I've stripped too many to mention and I hate doing it it's time consuming and unless it's a sunburst it's risky fender use diffrent grade woods for diffrent finishes so a sunburst or a natural will be an A much like gibson do but a flat colour like red black white ect will be a lower grade with very little grain. I've stripped strats that have had knots in them so it's a risky move.Anyway you have been warned never use heat, heat will only remove the clear and base coat the mistake people make is they think they have got down to wood once the paint is removed but you have a clear sealer layer that goes right into the grain that needs to be removed with paint stripper so you may as well use a good quality stripper and a furniture scrapper. A tip do the hard parts first like the edges and the cut aways. Let the stripper do it's job put it on thick and leave it to bubble don't use anything other that a furniture scrapper or you may dig in if the finish won't come off don't just rub harder put more on and and leave it and move on to another spot nothing worse that scratches and chunks missing if you do it right then it should take you three days to strip one that includes rubbing down with diffrent grit papers. If you want to test if your down to wood wet your finger and rub the wood if it sinks in your down to it. My opinion is to relic it if it's beaten up then it tells a story you can help it along abit with some gentle rubbing down around the damaged area teles look great with wear if you have any problems you can email me on sixtytwostiggy@gmail.com I'm always happy to help
Stiggy another fantastic video, you have saved me a fortune with your brilliant tips and fixes..cheers buddy :-)
About using solder and flux. Use high silver content Solder,Not the cheap Or the soft stuff...
Flux is corrosive. Make sure you get it off of the wood of your fretboard and even off of the fret... I am going to do this on a Yamaha Pacifica 312 that I just bought with heavy fret wear... either this guitar I’ve bought used has soft frets, or somebody played this guitar one hell of a lot. Even part of the Rosewood is worn, all the way up the neck.
Nice idea, and definitely worth trying. I've just levelled the frets on an acoustic that had severe wear at just the first few frets, so if I'd known about this method, I may have saved myself some sanding. Ah well, next time.
Okay so I have a Stratocaster type guitar and the 4th string second fret was dead so I tried sanding the second fret down and now the whole first three frets just buzz abs don't make and sound HELP??!?
Great video! I have a guitar with a low first fret. The guitar is less then an year old and the frets are fresh. Is it possible to do this trick on a whole fret? Will it stick? It would be more interesting to add something to the 1st fret then to level and redress all the other frets.
I checked the fret again with a fret rocker and it's just a little lower then the second fret. It's very little but low enough to buzz.
Hi mate filling a fret divet is one thing but a whole fret is risky personally I would do it properly if it's a new guitar it's more likely the whole fret job is poor and the others are high the best way to deal with this is to get yourself a strip of brass quite cheap off ebay afew pounds the brass is soft so it won't damage the frets and a steel ruler support your neck with a large phone book and some towels then get a small hammer and tap the ones around it gently five frets on either side should do it go easy don't smash them it's likely that the others weren't pressed in enough when the neck was made keep checking it with a ruler as you do then re string and set up again it should hopefully solve your problem any other problems email me on sixtytwostiggy@gmail.com
Stiggy'sGuitar Loft Thanks for the help! Awesome tips!
fantastic video thanks man -
I just got a 87 contemporary Jap Telecaster with chunks missing off the finish, have you ever stripped the finish off a guitar whats best heat gun or sanding or ive even seen some fellas use a chisel
Very cool tip,i've a single deep dink in a Tele fret that is about to disappear.
This works, but use silver solder. It is harder.
While its true that lead solder is soft the new lead free solder is harder and when used with flux it is hard as the frets themselves I've had a tokai strat with that repair done for seven years and they are as good as the day they where done
Thanks so much im going to do my fender now.
I did this once when I nicked a fret on a neck I was scalloping. Can't remember what fret it was. I used lead free silver solder. I wonder what is the hardest solder and why someone hasn't invented a fret resurfacing machine.
James Krys i
Iv done it with epoxy. does it look a mess,,, yes but it lets you play again you just buff if out best you can its hardly noticeable..
Please help me, you look like you know your stuff. I've got a strat from the 80s given to me with a fret that sticks out at around the 18th fret that's stops me being able to play from 15th fret up. What do I do? Thank you.
Seems crazy, but I'm gonna give it a shot. I have a Squire '51 that I love, but it would be insane to spend money to re fret. Thanks.
Nice to hear a proper northern accent on here! Haha nice tip thanks. Will be trying this
Damn thats good . Thanks . I have a Taylor GS mini . It has a few . Do you think I should try it . Thanks .
How it longs until you need to repair again with that method? sorry for my bad english and please tell me, I need to refret my guitar :(
As long as it is lead free solder you use it should last a few years
I used this method a few weeks ago and the solded part wore out in about an hour of playing...
+Cidraque did you use lead free lead solider is very soft and can rub off ? I have had the repair for two years on my old squire and play it daily strange yours didn't last.
Man, sure you're right. I think it's soft and I need another more hard. I'll search for another more hard. Thanks for the reply
That is true however it's lead free solder which isn't as soft and I've had tokai strat with it done for seven years and just as good as the day it was done
Interesting aproch, to the Problem. But, isn't Solder a bit to soft for this?
Very good! Lead free solder.... will try. Thank you.
Its works!!!thanks,you helped me alot!!!
Hi dev aslong as you are carefull and don't leave the iron on the frets too long you will be fine on any guitar take your time mask up before you do it and protect your fretboard whilst leveling the frets
sometimes you a temp fix....
Can you please tell me what kind of solder you used, and how long will it last? Cheers
Cid Casciato hi mate I used a modern led free good quality solder. The repair will last a while depends how you play. It will never replace a refret but of you have a guitar you love and can't afford to repair then it's a good temp do a for a few months
Nice tip .. !! Im going to try this !
magic! You legend. I am doing this!
GREAT Video.... I have a guitar that this will be perfect for!
I wish you do it with good camera, it is top level lesson!
Sorry Ali these were done a long time ago was cutting edge tec back then lol
Very clever.
GreatJob thanks!
Strangely I've been pondering this idea myself . Have many guitars
Works great! Thanks Man!
You are my Hero!!!!!!
Thanks Jakesdaddy08 hit subscribe and if you have any questions ect inbox me just a tip make sure you don't hold the soldering iron on too long as it could dislodge the fret and also make sure you buy lead free solder and it will last for years
This doesn't work well. The material (welding) used is an alloy of lead and tin, it's way too soft. This means that, beside the extremely quick wear, vibratos and bends suffer too. I know, I already tried this many years ago, as a beginner.
wow cool might give it a try some day to an old guitar neck lol to practice
Goddamn genius! :)
Thanx! Good vid.
brilliant
Legit. Thanks.
How long did it last before you have to do it again?
It lasted around two years of playing regularly so not too bad. I did it again and still going.
god bless you! ;)
sweet! great idea :)
nice, very sneaky my friend.
As long as you use lead free solder and a descent flux you will be fine I've had a beaten up old strat that's been played to hell and nearly all the frets are done with it and I've never seen so much as a mark over the repairs it's never going to beat a fret job but if you can't afford to do it or the guitar dosnt warrant the cash spent or even if you don't feel confident doing a refret then it will last a few years DONT us lead solder it is to soft and not to mention it's bloody nasty stuff get a good quality lead free solder from a maplin or home depo
i aim to please my friend who needs a refret works everytime
👏👏👏👌
That won't last,lead is soft
christopher vann He specified using lead-free silver solder in the vid.
***** Okay, but frets are already made of soft metal like zinc and nickel.
+Captain Freedom Do it if you want, no one here cares. but this is just a hack, not a fix. It is still solder. not fret wire. And fret wire does not melt with a soldering iron
Lead IS solid as hell, heve you ever try to desolder something? Used file for hour once to clean one CTS pot.
Best way to repair it? yep, cos after heating the fret it'll come out.
Just go easy use a hobby iron not a really powerful one your not heading the fret up your just warming the flux to allow the solder to flow I've done atleast thirty guitars over the years and never lost a fret yet
make intro short i left can't wait you loose # with that first grade shananginns
I had to turn it off after 21 seconds.