Thanks a lot for the good video! One comment about the ease/difficulty of removing the crankshaft pulley, which you seemed to hesitate: I think it may vary among the engines, but in my 1GM10 (serial number I think 500...600 range, i.e. old) it was very easy to remove (could loosen the nut with only a short spanner, and pull out the pulley without any tools). So, if others than me e.g. need to remove the cooling water pump: Do as I say, not as I did (I did as I thought it would be hard to remove the pulley): My water pump was leaking, and when removing it with the pulley in place, one of the 3 bolts (=the one in the worst place) got cut (=bolt head off). Still, when drilling out what remained of the original bolt with the pulley still in place, I couldn't drill straight. After eventually removing the pulley, doing the drilling, I ended up both drilling a hole all through, chips dripping into the gear casing (or whatever you call it) and doing a new tapping, it got a bit offset. I tried to get the chipts out, and drilled the water pump hole up to 9 mm to allow the bolt fit into the new tapping. I changed oil & oil filter 3 times with just ca 1 hour of running in between. I think the fix worked well. Just a tiny bit of oil leaking from the through hole, but so little that won't be an issue.
Thanks mate! I think I did end up taking the crank pulley off in the next video as I attempt to zinc plate it. I don't remember looking up my serial number but if it gives indication of age I will certainly do that! That sounds like a massive faff with the water pump. I've actually had issues there too. One of the three bolts has just fully pulled part of the aluminium casting away... so It's just hanging on two if I recall, or if the third bolt is in, it's certainly missing some threads! Well done for getting yours going. You can actually buy a new aluminium cover but obviously Yanmar £££
I'm sorry for a late reply. I'm not especially a Yanmar fan (I'm recently a day sailor; just need the engine to get away + a few hours later back in to port), but when I in my childhood / youth typically had a Volvo one, I thought those had expensive parts. I haven't recently compared the spare prices, but to me, the things you need most, aren't too bad. I mean, where I live, less that 14 GBP for an impeller set (with gasket etc.) and less than 4 GBP for the genuine (white Yanmar) oil filter (when I, as mentioned above, had to change the oil + filter several times, I unfortunately couldn't afford to wait for "a week" to get the genuine parts, so I had to go for slightly more expensive but quick-to-get "OEM parts" (black), but also those 4.3 GBP/pc). Maybe they just rip off in selected countries / markets.
They are definitely a rip off in the Channel Islands/Guernsey market! I guess it's a bit selective though. Some parts are completely affordable and some, like the engine mounts, are just outrageous rip offs.
Good stuff Matt - external condition looks pretty similar to mine, but I haven't had the head off mine yet. Good news that your head looks pretty clean. You probably know this, but you should also check the anode - attached to the plate behind where the starter motor sits. Looking forward to next episode...!
Thanks Patrick. Last time I replaced the anode was 4 years ago and there was almost nothing left of the previous one! I wonder how much will be left of this one!
Knackered, what a great word. We don't really use it in the US but I will put it into my vocabulary rotation instead of my normal swear words. Oh, nice vid on tearing down your Yanmar.
@@thesailingdonkey no it is really a great word. We live in a world of google and the ability to look things up. Don't worry about people not being able to figure out what your talking about....at least you don't have one of the UK accents that hard to understand. 😂
Do you have link for the manuals? Retrofitting a 1gm10 into an O'day replacing a Universal 11. It a salvage engine so no manuals. Thanks for the video either way.
There are several manuals I found this to be the most useful: www.manualslib.com/manual/791391/Yanmar-1gm10.html (Service Manual) There is also an operation manual: www.manualslib.com/manual/764985/Yanmar-1gm10.html And a shop manual: www.manualslib.com/manual/1017139/Yanmar-1gm10.html Those last two are less useful for detail but are good references.
Hi Matt, Is there a certain way a thermostat has to be installed? We got my 1GM10 going the other day without a thermostat installed and all was well, plenty of water coming out of the exhaust. Today we installed a new thermostat and very little water exits the exhaust, almost nothing. Took the thermostat out and all back to normal. Just wondering if you have any ideas on this problem Cheers, Paul.
@@thesailingdonkey Hi Matt, thanks for the reply. I will check with my mate who replaced the thermostat. If the arrow wasn't pointing upwards would the water run OK without the thermostat? Cheers, Paul.
This video is a great resource. I'm about to have remove the head on Yanmar 1GM and lap the valves. Thanks for sharing!!
I'm very glad to hear that. Best of luck with the job!
This is so instructive - wish I had a Yanmar, I'd be stripping it down with confidence!
Cheers Ginger Bard!
Thanks a lot for the good video! One comment about the ease/difficulty of removing the crankshaft pulley, which you seemed to hesitate: I think it may vary among the engines, but in my 1GM10 (serial number I think 500...600 range, i.e. old) it was very easy to remove (could loosen the nut with only a short spanner, and pull out the pulley without any tools). So, if others than me e.g. need to remove the cooling water pump: Do as I say, not as I did (I did as I thought it would be hard to remove the pulley):
My water pump was leaking, and when removing it with the pulley in place, one of the 3 bolts (=the one in the worst place) got cut (=bolt head off). Still, when drilling out what remained of the original bolt with the pulley still in place, I couldn't drill straight. After eventually removing the pulley, doing the drilling, I ended up both drilling a hole all through, chips dripping into the gear casing (or whatever you call it) and doing a new tapping, it got a bit offset. I tried to get the chipts out, and drilled the water pump hole up to 9 mm to allow the bolt fit into the new tapping. I changed oil & oil filter 3 times with just ca 1 hour of running in between. I think the fix worked well. Just a tiny bit of oil leaking from the through hole, but so little that won't be an issue.
Thanks mate! I think I did end up taking the crank pulley off in the next video as I attempt to zinc plate it. I don't remember looking up my serial number but if it gives indication of age I will certainly do that!
That sounds like a massive faff with the water pump. I've actually had issues there too. One of the three bolts has just fully pulled part of the aluminium casting away... so It's just hanging on two if I recall, or if the third bolt is in, it's certainly missing some threads! Well done for getting yours going. You can actually buy a new aluminium cover but obviously Yanmar £££
I'm sorry for a late reply. I'm not especially a Yanmar fan (I'm recently a day sailor; just need the engine to get away + a few hours later back in to port), but when I in my childhood / youth typically had a Volvo one, I thought those had expensive parts. I haven't recently compared the spare prices, but to me, the things you need most, aren't too bad. I mean, where I live, less that 14 GBP for an impeller set (with gasket etc.) and less than 4 GBP for the genuine (white Yanmar) oil filter (when I, as mentioned above, had to change the oil + filter several times, I unfortunately couldn't afford to wait for "a week" to get the genuine parts, so I had to go for slightly more expensive but quick-to-get "OEM parts" (black), but also those 4.3 GBP/pc). Maybe they just rip off in selected countries / markets.
They are definitely a rip off in the Channel Islands/Guernsey market! I guess it's a bit selective though. Some parts are completely affordable and some, like the engine mounts, are just outrageous rip offs.
Good stuff Matt - external condition looks pretty similar to mine, but I haven't had the head off mine yet. Good news that your head looks pretty clean.
You probably know this, but you should also check the anode - attached to the plate behind where the starter motor sits. Looking forward to next episode...!
Thanks Patrick. Last time I replaced the anode was 4 years ago and there was almost nothing left of the previous one! I wonder how much will be left of this one!
Excellent mate learnt loads
Thanks SuperDonald, glad to hear that 👍
Knackered, what a great word. We don't really use it in the US but I will put it into my vocabulary rotation instead of my normal swear words. Oh, nice vid on tearing down your Yanmar.
Cheers H2O, yes good point, I probably need to be more aware of non-UK audience! Thanks 👍
@@thesailingdonkey no it is really a great word. We live in a world of google and the ability to look things up. Don't worry about people not being able to figure out what your talking about....at least you don't have one of the UK accents that hard to understand. 😂
Do you have link for the manuals? Retrofitting a 1gm10 into an O'day replacing a Universal 11. It a salvage engine so no manuals. Thanks for the video either way.
Yes sure thing, let me find them.
There are several manuals I found this to be the most useful: www.manualslib.com/manual/791391/Yanmar-1gm10.html (Service Manual)
There is also an operation manual: www.manualslib.com/manual/764985/Yanmar-1gm10.html
And a shop manual: www.manualslib.com/manual/1017139/Yanmar-1gm10.html
Those last two are less useful for detail but are good references.
Hi Matt,
Is there a certain way a thermostat has to be installed? We got my 1GM10 going the other day without a thermostat installed and all was well, plenty of water coming out of the exhaust.
Today we installed a new thermostat and very little water exits the exhaust, almost nothing. Took the thermostat out and all back to normal. Just wondering if you have any ideas on this problem
Cheers,
Paul.
Hi Paul. Have you put the thermostat housing back on the right way round? With the arrow pointed upwards?
@@thesailingdonkey Hi Matt, thanks for the reply. I will check with my mate who replaced the thermostat. If the arrow wasn't pointing upwards would the water run OK without the thermostat?
Cheers,
Paul.
@@SCCFORUM Hi Paul, yes it would. Let me know what you find.
^From me
@@mattskillett6622 Hi Matt. Will do, appreciate your time.
Cheers,
Paul.👍🏻⛵