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How to make a Motorcycle Fender (Part 2): Adding Details
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- čas přidán 12. 03. 2021
- www.proshaper.com
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How to make a motorcycle fender (Part 2): Adding Details
Wray continues with the Motorcycle fender. He shrinks one more time then planishes the fender with the Harbor Freight English Wheel. Now it's time to add the details. Wray marks off the center of the fender with blue vinyl tape. Using the tipping wheel he adds that nice line down the center and then also tips the edges. He then brings the fender to the shrinker stretcher machine and shrinks any loose edge while also pulling over the edge. Wray then takes the motorcycle fender over to the planishing hammer and planishes the edge.
Email: Wray@Proshaper.com
Website: www.proshaper.com
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Please DO NOT DECREASE the length of your videos. They are GREATLY INFORMATIVE 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
*I'm an amateur but Is @**5:15** sped up or does he work the wheel that fast?*
Always a treat to see the master at work. I’m jealous of that shrunken you made…like all your tools it’s both a work of art and a real worker!
Should watch how they do it in India, amazingly easy.
He's making excellent work at 72 and is going as well as a Swiss watch. Good luck to him and all the best.!!!
Amazing how the English wheel removes the creases. I'm surprised to find that annealing doesn't play a part. I would have guessed work hardening would have caused issues but clearly not.
Here in the middle of part 2 of 3 I’m beginning to see the value in buying a high priced fender!
AMAZING!!! You are the Bob Ross of metal shaping!
Sooo much to do; variety is the spice. Way to go Wray.
If there ever was a more perfect guy to say words like "Start" or "Harbor", I haven't heard 'em. :)
You are the best that I have seen and I’ve seen a bunch of you guys doing metal work. Boy that David Bradbury thinks he knows it all must have just got his English wheel last week.
Amazing !
G'day Wray it always amazes me how you can beat the living stuff out of a piece of metal and end up with a perfectly smooth panel 👀👌
Your years of experience make it look easy
17:45 The rare time a bottom adjuster might be of help.
Thanks for showing us how to do some of this detail work.
Great follow-on from the first video Wray, it always amazes me how bad the panels look at the start and what you manage to conjure up a great finished article it a pleasure to watch and learn from a master like you, thank you for sharing your knowledge
Vi är jätte duktigare
Thanks for posting this series. Very helpful.
Nicely done Wray!
The low crown panel will be great, Wray. Hood skin, boot skin or roof skin of a later classic, or a door skin with a low crown AND a seam bend. Man! I will really appreciate that!
You guys could basically start an body shop ASMR channel.
Too busy doing jobs.
👍👍, love it.
Beautiful work Wray, thanks, cheers, Doug
Thanks Wray,You really make it ez to learn.I have the same english wheel on my wish list from H/F.Can you tell me where I can get Delmar hammers like you use.I think in your first video you said you offer them.I just subbed to your Video Channel because I'm a gear head and love doing bodywork and custom anything.I learned so much just watching you.I learn very quickly by watching.If I see it once it's in their forever.Oh I'm 65 and I can swing that hammer all day if I have to and physically I'm kind of messed up,but I still have dreams and people like you help me achieve those dreams and I appreciate what you teach very much.Thank You so much.
Thanks! You can find my mallets and a lot of other tools we make at my website www.proshaper.com
Really want to see more weld dressing, filing, Dykem fluid, fine tuning panels for that perfect chrome like finish on aluminum. Or, steel. Some good close up work of making a restoration panel perfect again or perfecting a panel made from scratch.
Or, another free tool Frriday about making those lower poly tipping wheels.
I know you are a very busy man but I would love to see plans for shrinker/stretcher and planishing hammer. I love your videos they are a great learning tool. I want to build a scratch build Volkswagen Hebmuler after seeing the Porsche project.
Recently purchased Baileigh Planishing Hammer. Next is a powered bead roller, then an English Wheel. Already setup with Mig, Tig and Oxy/Acetylene. Found a local sheet metal source also. Also acquired some Eastwood tools (electric shears, leather sandbag, hammer, ECT). Eager to practice and keep practicing. Thanks for your instructional videos!
Check out my website for metalshaping tools and classes www.proshaper.com
great as usual , be nice to see if you can keep the top spine as it runs through the duck tail flair.
Bloody magic work wray luv watching your channel so hands on thank you.
Hola, soy de argentina y sinceramente me salvó la vida con sus videos, muy bien explicados y didácticos en este momento estoy haciendo muchos trabajos en chapa por lo aprendido con usted
Great! Keep learning!!!
I made my spine deep enough to run wire for my lights Then cap it off with some flat metal to protect and hold my wire in place.
Ray, Love your Videos, you are such a good teacher and inspiration, now I just want to go out to my shop and beat the hell out of some iron.
Thanks Kevin, I do believe we have been working with our hands and head for 10000 years and only in the last century the hands have been idled by modern economics. Show an individual what is possible and the hands and head come together again and the dreams start. Have fun.
You make it look so easy.
It is hypnotic to watch.
Wray, maybe you could talk about learning to steer the material in the wheel and what it's like to run over your thumb while you learn, haha! Ouch!
It's like hitting your finger with a hammer, but the hammer stays.
its looking good Ray
Wray, not Ray!
Great video!!! Love how informative it is. Can't wait for the next video.
Ray: could you discuss the types of materials used to fill small gaps and crevises between metal panels and wood structure to prevent drumming and to seal joints? I am looking for something that remains stable with the altitude changes that an antique aircraft would experiance.
Great videos Wray - content is incredible! For the beginners, like me, who have yet to attend a class, would you please provide some guidance on setting the pressure zones (low, medium, and high) - how they feel during wheeling, etc? Thanks!
Hi Bob, thanks! The low pressure zone is used for arranging the metal (bending, pulling up or down) which creates simple radius. It is also used for adding slow subtle shape (area). The middle pressure zone adds area at a much faster rate. The middle zone can also be used for arrangement. Generally the middle zone has a slight drag as you pull and push the panel through the wheels and if you have the correct anvil the surface will soon shine and have no flaws. The high pressure zone moves metal ( adds area) at a very fast rate but the process leaves track marks and stop marks. When in the high pressure zone it is much more difficult to push and pull the metal through the wheels.
@@proshaper Thank you for your reply - again, very helpful!
Nice!!
A bending stick can be used to replicate what a tiping wheel can do. Its a metal rod with a slot in the end. Metal goes in slot and is bent in small increments (see Project Binky) Cheap alternative).
Not the center detail but the edge details can be done with a bend stick.
Once you use a tipping wheel there is no comparison in the results. A bending stick will bind when the flange comes up.
@@proshaper Only if you bend the flange too much. But that was not the point its an inexpensive alternative that might be worth mentioning. Love your videos respect and value your advice.
I'm surprised how much it flattened out the edges, thought it would have a much tighter radius
Can you make a rocker panel with the English wheel?
If you put a straight edge on the rocker panel and it has double curvature, then yes you make it with a English wheel. If it has single curvature bend it over a pipe with a blanket on the pipe.
The Norm Abram of metal.
By using so much pressure on the wheel and wheeling clear out to the edges you are stretching your edge shrinks back out to the point, that your edge shrinks are gone. I would bet if you measured the edges with a micrometer just before you kick shrink them that they are thinner then .40 thou. The only time you are really getting any shrink on the edges is after you turn the edge and use the kick shrinker. So you have spent a lot of time hammering on the block shrinking with the hammer then wheeling it all away. The only thing you gained is a very small amount of stretch in the middle of the panel. And you gained most of that on the wheel. So you could have wheeled the center of the panel turned the edges, used the kick shrinker and been done.
Nope you are wrong. You can believe anything you want.
@@proshaper I can see it in the video all a person has to do is look!!!!!!
Gracias!!!!!
Great channel! It seems lots of channels cross pollinate to grow viewership. Who’s the most successful CZcamsr you know?
I have two friends with CZcams channels that have more subscribers Tom Lipton Oxtools and David Guyton Armor Templates. They both have helped with advice.
Thanks so much Wray!
just a question how to do the same work without a shirker/stretcher machine?
Can all this be done by hand without the 10 ton equipment?
Wray instead of opening the fender up to wheel it could you just use a high crown wheel? Or would that cause some other problem? Thanks for the great video.
High crown wheels just make wheel tracking marks. Only use them with very light pressure to smooth a high crown spot out. I very rarely use high crown tools.
Ray, what contour is that lower wheel? I have one of those wheels but it only came with one #3 die. I've since made a flat one
Do you ever use a tucking fork?
No, tucking forks are too limited in the depth that they can reach, and they leave a scar in the metal at the end of the tines. Have you seen my gathering tool? czcams.com/users/proshaper. 185 videos at my CZcams channel.
Parabém, lindo trabalho mais um escrito.
Did u coat them at the end?
hi can you tell me is it possible to shape stainless in the same way ?
Stainless requires a lot more power to move. It is very difficult to work but will shape very well. You need a power hammer to move it.
Would it make sense to built an english wheel around a cast iron bandsaw frame (rigidity/springiness) ?
People have the idea that cast iron frames are somehow the best- not so. Cast iron was used to make English wheels because that was the prevailing technology of the day. A steel fabricated wheel is a better method. See my plans and my video for what I call my CZcams English wheel. www.proshaper.com czcams.com/users/proshaper
Can you tell us why steel is better please?
@@flyerphil7708 steel is infinitely changeable, it doesn't crack like cast iron does, allows more freedom of design, is stronger if built correctly, etc.
@@proshaper Thank you for the reply.
Sir please give me answer
Hello, what is the question???
👍👏👏
I am find jobs your workshop
I am technician
Sheet metal porn... Hmm loving it.
You can bet that the 9 jackasses who don't like this video can't even do half of what Wray does.
So if you have a different opinion then the crowd your a Jackass!!!!!