7x12 Enclosed Trailer Custom Mods (Updated Video)
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- čas přidán 23. 11. 2020
- This is an updated video showing most of the custom mods done to an extra tall 7x12 enclosed trailer. Mods are mostly focused on hauling off-road vehicles (bikes, quads, UTA), but I've also done mods that allow me to use the trailer to carry different types of cargo easily. I've posted this video just in case some users might find a mod or two useful for their own trailer...
- Sport
Very well done. You have designed it not to be haphazardly put together but like it came of some luxury land yacht. Very inspirational.
Thank you for the kind feedback. I had many row boats before I was able to build my land yacht...it was a pain doing the work but it was worth every second and dollar of investment. I've done one more mod...put a trailer hitch in back beam (just below door hinge line)...I can put my bike carrier (motorcycle- czcams.com/video/uzdschTupkw/video.html ) across the back so I can carry the SBS and my motorcycle. Have a nice one...
Annnnnnd now my weekend plans have been made haha. Good stuff man!
So sorry to mess up your weekend... 😁
I just got a 16 ft ATC trailer. I have 2 rows of E track on the walls, and two rows on the floor for tie down. Up in the nose, I have a horizontal Track on the floor, tied into the frame so I can connect a winch to it if I need. Etrac makes a single tire motorcycle stop that clips on the Etrac. If you flip it backwards, it is a GREAT winch connect point, I think E trac is a better solution, there are a lot of accessories that you can hang stuff like tires, cabinets, etc. HOWEVER you did these things yourself, using your skills and brain which I think is WAY better. I am the fat old guy who can sit around making comments, YOU are the guy who is doing it!!! I definitely respect what you've done. I have kids your age probably, I would rather they be able to DO what you did, instead of BUY what I did!
Thank you for the feedback... your setup sounds very nice. I did consider E-trac, but opted not to use it for several key reasons (specific to what I was looking for and needing). Also, I just sold the trailer because I have to go to a 8.5x14...so all the mods will have to be redone! I'll re-look at E-trac as an option... have a nice one...
Nice set up! I like it a lot!
Thank you for the kind feedback...the trailer & custom mods have been working out really well.
Well done, thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the kind feedback...
Wells Cargo has been using the Nose Cone for many years. I added one to my first cargo trailer back in 1993.
I wish the other trailer manufactures would offer it is option...it is profit lost on their end! I say, either V-Nose or Nose-Cone for tall enclosed trailers!!
Fantastic video!!! Thanks!
Thank you for the kind feedback...
Some neat ideas, thanks.
Thank you for the kind feedback... hope at least some of the info is useful at some point.
Sweet set up 🤙
Thank you for the kind feedback...the trailer has worked out better than expected...
Enjoyed this video
Thank you for the kind feedback...
Nice job
Thank you...the time, effort, and expenses were well worth it...it has been working out extremely well.
Hi Steve, I've been trying to find some tent/canopy brackets for over a year now and haven't come across anything I really like until I saw your set-up. I'm just curious, did you base these off of a commercially available bracket? I can't find anything like yours online so I've been thinking about an "L" shaped collapsible shelf bracket and using a bungee to secure it but before I do, I'd love to hear from you first. Look forward to hearing from you. Thanks
Regarding the brackets....sorry, but they are my custom design. I too was looking for a long time for brackets that I liked and knew what I wanted, so I finally just took some scrap steel and did a test fab...the test fab turned into my permanent solution. They have worked out much better than expected...I love the design and simplicity of use. I hope you find something that works for your needs.
where did you get the hinge for the rear door extension .. great video and modifications
Thank you for the kind feedback...wrt the rear door extension hinge...I just reused the stock hinge that was installed from the manufacture. etrail.com (not advertising for them) carries these same type hinges www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=hinge
Nice mods
Thank you for the kind feedback...all the mods have worked out extremely well.
Nice mods, love the mounted tubes for the field chairs! I'm going to use your idea, thanks!
Thank you for the feedback...the tubes mod has worked out extremely well.
Options are interesting, e-track would probably be of significant benefit.
Thank you for the suggestion.... I considered e-track as one of the options...but decided against it for several key reasons. I've been extremely happy with the setup as it was specifically designed around my needs. Have a nice one...
Looks good
Thank you...it has been working out extremely well...
Kinda wish you'd go more into detail on how you built those canopy brackets, very ingenious.
Thank you for the kind feedback. I'll have to make a video on just the brackets ... They seem to be a hit with at least several people. I'll post a second reply to your comment if I post a detailed video.
Steve, did you use the treadplex primer before painting, or just use the pain on the plywood/osb?
I didn't use any primer...the paint has "no problem" adhering to the wood surface. The paint pulls off part of the wood surface if you try and remove the paint. I've even got some of the paint on metal and it doesn't come off...
What paint did you use on the walls? Trying to figure out which paint to use on mine myself and keep hearing various answers from people on what to use. Thanks!
I used Sherwin-Williams: "Armorseal Rexthane I" for the floor, and "Armorseal Tread-Plex" for the walls. I've done 3 enclosed trailers with this paint setup...one of the best mods/choices I've made!
couple questions.....Why didn't you paint the ramp extension and side door? Also you could insulate the ceiling and make it much cooler inside. Love the brackets for the tents & chairs, very ingenious. Great job!
Thank you for the kind feedback. Regarding your questions: I didn't paint the extension because I consider it a replaceable/sacrificial item...the wood gets trashed due to it being in most contact with the dirt/rocky terrain. The door wasn't painted because I had planned on putting other mods on the door...and I just never got around to it...but will one day. I'll have to think about/look into some options for the ceiling. I do not spend too much time inside the trailer and when I do it is almost always with both doors open so the temp is more ambient temp vs radiated heat temp from the ceiling.
I like it
Thank you...it was well worth all the work and time.
Chefs kiss
Thank you for the kind feedback... First time for that approach... lol...
Is it safe to mount your spare tire that high on the stud. My studs are 1 × 2 aluminum. I have E Track brackets with 1 inch self tapping screws.
The answer to your question has a "Depends" factor to it. First, my trailer wall studs are metal so it will be a little harder for the mounting screws to pull (given material thicknesses are the same). So, the ability of the screws to hold the spare mount & tire has nothing to due with height above the floor of the trailer. However, the closer the screws are to the ends of the studs the less impact the screws will have on the studs (i.e., wanting to case the studs to bow out some due to the weight)...having the spare tire mount near the top of the studs means it is closer to the metal joining the studs together at the top and thus will not flex the stud as much. So, in answer to your question...if it was me I'd use additional screws seeing that they are threaded into aluminum and I'd spread the weight across several studs (i.e., tie into E Track that is mostly used for the spare tire only). The other thing you can do is have the spare tire mount be a lot taller above the tire and thus having a screw above the tire will provide more leverage for the screw(s) to hold. Hope this helps...
Will you please tell again what paint you use on the walls and floor?
I used Sherwin-Williams: "Armorseal Rexthane I" for the floor, and "Armorseal Tread-Plex" for the walls.
Where can I find a similar fold down table?
I'll provide info for both tables just in case we are not thinking about the same table 😁 The smaller fold-down table is from Pitposse.com -- Pit Posse Flip out work tray 32 Inch (SKU: PPFOWT32). Larger fold-up table is from Etrailer.com -- Tow-Rax Wall Mounted Folding Table - Aluminum - 45-1/2" Long x 18-1/2" Wide (Item # TWSP45HFTA). Sorry for the delay with my reply...
How has the trailer floor help up with that product?
Exceptionally well...an impact has to be hard enough to damage/chunk the wood to damage the coating. It actually makes the wood stronger to daily use scuffs and dings and etc.. It has exceeded my expectation for durability...worth every penny IHMO.
Extra tall is how many inches? Good information
Thank you for the kind feedback. ... It depends on the trailer manufacturer, but it usually is approx 6 inches taller...the same height as an 8.5 wide enclosed car hauler. It wasn't common for a 7x12 to have 75 inch height opening...you had to get a 7.5x16 or larger to get that height. 7.5x14 UTV enclosed trailers pretty much now come stock with the taller height.
WHERE YOU GOT THE CABINETS?
they are from Pit Posse www.pitposse.com/transporting/trailer-organizers/shelves-cabinets.html. You can also get the same cabinet on Amazon...just search Pit Posse Cabinet.
If i talk like an idiot its cause i am lol 😆 def a 👍🏽
Thank you... 👍
Why is he afraid of etrak?
First off who is he? Second, that is a pretty big jump for you to make to say someone is afraid of something just because they went with a different option! But to at least give you one small taste of an answer ... ETRAK, if used on the floor, collects a crap ton of trail crap the quads, SBS, and bikes bring into the trailer ... and a lot of that crap falls down into the lower section/part of the ETRAK (which is an absolute pain in the a$$ to get back out). There are many more reasons also... but you already know the answers seeing you stated the main reason why ETRAK wasn't used. Lastly, you should market your people reading skills as a side gig... 😉
Your tires are rated to 75 mph. Slow down. Nice upgrades though.
Thank you for the kind feedback ... But, do you really believe you know "exactly" what tires I have on my trailer? I think you might try asking before you state stuff that you do not know, first hand, as fact!!
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq you are correct about not knowing what tires you have. I don’t believe a tire for a utility trailer has a speed rating above 75 mph. Although I could be wrong.
As a professional driver I believe driving at those speeds is dangerous to you and the drivers around you.
@@lawrence7065 Since you felt it important enough to pass along unsolicited information/advice/your stance…it is only fair that any comments from you that can be validated as incorrect/uninformed/etc. should be addressed.
First, speed ratings for tires...more specific…trailer tires (i.e., utility trailers). A person can quickly, and easily, find trailer tires with a M-Speed Rating…it only takes about 60 seconds. A M rated trailer tire (or any M tire) has a top speed of 81 MPH, at MAX LOAD. So, as you move below MAX LOAD the actual safe Max Speed increases (physics at play). How much is debatable, but it’s not going to be an insignificant amount (IMHO)-it is a math/physics thing…not an opinion thing. So, driving 10-20% over 75 MPH with a 40% loaded utility trailer (tires only using 35% of their max load rating), with at least M rated tires, is not really adding any measurable increase in risk due to tire rotational speed failure.
For you second concern. Your statement that you are a professional driver is an important input; however, your comment after that is without a solid foundation…let’s call it a fact-less based discussion/statement. For you statement to be true, “driving at those speeds is dangerous to you and the drivers around you”, requires a lot…and I mean a lot of additional data to be entered into the equation. For example, driving in Utah on I-15, the posted speed limited (down south) is 80 MPH. So, if the majority of traffic is going…let’s say… 85 MPH… it is actually safer for myself and drivers around me if I travel at…or at least pretty close to…the pace of the surrounding traffic (this all assumes that I have a proper rated tow vehicle towing a proper rated trailer with proper rated tires and with environmental conditions supporting 85 MPH as a safe speed, and I maintain a proper safe space/gap between my vehicle and any vehicle directly in front of my vehicle, etc./etc./etc.. Additionally, if driving at a faster speed on a completely empty road --- not passing anyone and no one passing me…and no traffic anywhere near me for at least a tenth of a mile or more…then how is driving at those speeds (as you state) a risk to the traffic around me when there is not any traffic around me?...just a single car now and then…???
You seem to make a lot of fact-less based assumptions on things you have no first-hand knowledge about. And then you take it one step further by passing along “your” stance on how “other” people should behave. You know nothing about me…for all you know my skill as a driver is triple yours and thus you driving at 75 MPH is more unsafe to yourself and others than me driving at 85 MPH. The speed at which you are traveling is only one piece out of many pieces that statistically define/determine risk level. Thank you for your comments and feedback…
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq you are correct on tire speeds. Thanks for educating me.
As far as safety goes. My opinion is over 65 mph it becomes unsafe. That’s how the state of Nevada feels as well.
Speed limit for tow behind trailers is 65MPH in the state of Nevada. But overalls I’ll give you the WIN.
@@lawrence7065 I'm not looking for any type of Win...you commented on your opinion - with info...I replied with comments on my opinion - with info...it is more of an agree to disagree vs a Win/Lose thing. And a tow-behind safe speed of 65 mph also has average driver skills add into the equation...as are almost all max speed limits (road, avg driver skill, etc.). I'll take a bunch of professional drivers speeding all around me vs a bunch of too safe-scared drivers doing 20 mph under the speed limit and camping in the fast-lane! But, I'm more of a statistics type decision person... agreeing to disagree... Thank you for your comments and feedback... Have a nice one...
you could remove 75% of the stuff in that trailer if you got a bigger trailer. 🤣
...and I could remove 100% of the stuff if I didn't have a trailer!!
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq 🤪 uhhh.
You created a very dangerous condition under your external gasoline storage tanks. You stated you inappropriately substituted in a "Lithium Battery" for the original Lead Acid battery. You should NOT have done that because the charging parameters are very different between those different chemistry battery types. Your vehicle uses a Lead Acid battery and has a charging system designed to charge a Lead Acid battery. You probably found a Lithium Iron Phosphate LiFePO4 chemistry battery and substituted it in for the original battery box Lead Acid battery. Obviously you did not do any research about the differences between the charging needs of the two different battery chemistries. A Lead Acid battery uses different voltages throughout its charging cycle than does a LiFePO4 battery. A vehicle battery charging system ALWAYS provides a Trickle Charge which is fine for a Lead Acid battery but that Trickle Charge will destroy a LiFePO4 battery. Best case scenario is that you wasted your money and got a shorter life and less dependability from the more expensive LiFePO4 battery. Worst case scenario is that you destroy the LifFePO4 battery in a fire that is exacerbated by your mindless placement of gasoline cans right above the LiFePO4 battery.
Thank you for your feedback. How about this ... BMS ... or ... ventilated battery box ... or ... only connected to the charging source when vehicle is in motion ... in motion vehicle passes cooling air across the battery constantly ... and most of the time there is not any fuel above the battery -- only carry fuel there once in a blue-moon ... etc. ... etc.. So, statically speaking, I like my risk assessment. Also, most all newer dirt bikes come with a Lithium battery...that you sit on top of and is a lot closer to the fuel cell...and are exposed to a lot more engine/exhaust heat ... and I've never witnessed or heard of a Lithium thermal runaway within the off-roading community. But hey, your the expert on the plant with this great knowledge on what other people should or should not be doing. Did you know that you are statistically more likely to die in an accident than you are to have one of your correctly maintained Lithium batteries go into thermal runaway .. of course you did ... what was I thinking. Hope you have a nice weekend...
Well if a Dirt Bike came with a Lithium battery, you can be sure that the manufacturer set up the alternator charging system to safely charge up the Lithium battery. Exactly opposite of what you did substituting in a Lithium battery for a Lead Acid Battery. It is true that the original Lead Acid vehicle charging system only "charges" at a higher 14.6 to 14.8 volts when the engine is running. However, it is also true that if you leave the Trailer RV plug attached to the vehicle RV receptacle then the nominal 12 volt black color center Auxiliary Voltage Supply wire is connected to the vehicle battery sitting at real 13.1 to 13.6 volts acting as a Forbidden Trickle Float charge connected to the Lithium Battery. The Lithium battery BMS WILL NOT stop the continuous float charge coming from the vehicle battery even when the vehicle is not running. So, I suppose you never heard of a Lithium battery fire caused by improper charging? Don't trust me, ask any Electrical Engineer about the proper charging parameters of LiFePO4 batteries.
@@PredatorOmnivore Thank you for your major concern over my personal belongings...is there a risk...absolutely...but not to the level your selling it...like I said before, the statistical data does not support your risk conclusion...and also, why so much hate. I'm getting the feeling that you must be a complete pleasure to be around. ... and FYSA -- dirt bikes do not have an alternator...they have a stator....and no, there is absolutely nothing special they change/modify to use a Lithium battery. For example, Shorai sells direct replacement Lithium batteries for all forms of off-road vehicles...they could not be in, or stay in business if their product was going into thermal runaway for 1 in 10k batteries sold...not even if it was 1 in 100k sold. Maybe you should contact them and tell them how wrong they are to be selling such dangerous products.
Here's a post on amazon from W. Marz "Over the last 8 years I've replaced at least 6 traditional lead-acid batteries with Shorai batteries. I have over 10 bikes, and have become a great fan. Light weight, high performance. On older bikes where there is no drain from computers and electronics, charge holds for over 9 months and starts immediately. Higher cost, but great benefits." And the list of people that have installed these batteries over LA ones is massively long!
Also, I guess you really do not read what other people write...because if you had you never would have included most of the info in your second reply. The trailer is only ELECTRICALLY connected to the vehicle when the vehicle is towing the trailer (a risk reduction technique) ... so, sorry, but no forbidden trickle charging is happening. And I guess manufactures cannot design a BMS that turns off trickle charging....an engineering impossibility. Correct, Karen! Have a nice weekend... thank you for putting a big smile on my face!!...very entertaining... 👍👍
I went out and bought some treadplex for my trailer walls and floors, i used a test piece of wood as a sample after sanding and cleaning. Let the paint cure and noticed that it scuffs and scratches very easily just with my finger, probably fine for the walls but definitely not for the floors, have you noticed that on your walls?
I plan to get Rexthane for the floors just like you did and I’m hoping that that holds up to scuffs and scratches much better than treadplex!
@@Adamthebuilder I'm not sure on the level of damage you mean when you stated it scuffs and scratches easily. I know the REX stuff will mar up some with aggressive dragging over the coating, but the surface doesn't scratch away unless the wood gets pulled off/up as well. Regarding the TREAD on the walls...I haven't notice anything marring up the surface from just normal impacts...but I mostly just look for wood color showing...not surface scuffs. I know that the REX is a lot tougher than the TREAD stuff. Note: I didn't do any prep work on the wood other than give it a good sweeping/dust removal. I also put a pretty think initial coating on...I cannot remember if I applied any second coats. I have to sell my current trailer to upgrade to a wider one...so I'll have to redo all the mods on the new replacement trailer and I'll be doing the same paint coatings (Thread on walls and Rex on floor/ramp). I hope you are happier with the REX stuff...
Walmart master😂
Sorry....trailer has never been to Walmart!!