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John Deere 50lb Wheel Weight Install
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2021
- Installation of 1 John Deere 50lb wheel weight. Couldn't find anything for this type, so here it is! Keep in mind different tractors have different part numbers of wheels. This will work for 530/534/540/570/580/584/590, if you are doing it on a tractor with 26" tires, it should still work with 7" bolts as they are long, but I can't 100% confirm.
**DISCLAIMER: THE CONTENT IN THIS VIDEO IS NOT BEING INSTALLED BY A JOHN DEERE TECHNICIAN AND I AM IN NO WAY GUARANTEEING THAT THE INSTALLATION OF EQUIPMENT AS DEPICTED WILL BE COVERED UNDER ANY WARRANTY IN THE EVENT OF FAILURE. I WILL ALSO NOT BE HELD LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGE OR INJURY TO YOURSELF , OTHERS, OR EQUIPMENT DUE TO THE USE OF THIS CONTENT. THIS VIDEO IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT/IDEA PURPOSES AND SHOULD ONLY BE USED AS REFERENCE AND NOT AS A REPLACEMENT TO ACTUAL TECHNICAL DATA.**
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i used wheel weight on my 1990 craftsman but ended up putting on valve stem extenders on it brings the end out closer to face of weight and easier to add air if needed
Great method to keep the mounting studs squared up to the rim and not be "all wiggly." It makes it all the easier for mounting and unmounting of the weights. How much were the cast iron weights in your area ?
$140 per weight… and unfortunately there is no used market in Alaska, people either don’t buy the stuff or they do and never get rid of it.
Get stainless steel carriage bolts ,that way you can cut them to size so they don’t stick out. Put shrink tubing on the bolts after you put them through the wheels, the bolt threads won’t knock the paint off the wheel weights. You can get yellow electric tape at Home Depot, wrap it around the weights where they would contact the rims and your done. Sorry for my OCD.
Great points! Unfortunately once you add more than one weight, you likely won’t find pre-fab bolts. I had to cut from all thread when doing 2 and 3… I like the heat shrink idea!
These weights are NOT supposed to be bolted on like this. I would like to know how many times this guy walked into the bolt ends sticking out. The bolt should go through the weight from the outside with the nut on the inside. No, it’s not that much harder to do, it is the correct way. Position the wheel with a bolt hole facing north and south. Place a rod into the wheel weight and lift to get it into the top hole. Now insert a bolt into the bottom hole and screw a nut and lock washer on the inside. Rotate the wheel so that the top hole is now on the bottom(the weight won’t fall off). Bolt it on and tighten both nuts and you are all set. I have done this numerous times in the thirty plus years that I have had a tractor. I use additional weight on the rear when I use my snow blower for best traction. Never a problem and with my plow on and the rear weights I can push a car. Yes I use chains in the snow. In fact I leave them on all year.
Walked into the ends zero times. They barely stick out, and I now have yellow rubber/plastic caps on them, so it won’t even hurt you if you did… these don’t seem to have instructions, so who is to say what the right way is? I have put them on using the rod (piece of rebar) on the top to slide it on. Yeah it works, but having studs that won’t move is way easier, and way faster… Plus the JD bolt kit doesn’t even fit. So this is just my take on it.
Checked the parts catalog, it shows the bolt the direction you say on the drawing, but no leader lines though the wheel, I’ll give you that one, but still doesn’t change the fact that it can’t be used, I tried the factory bolt both ways before coming up with my idea.
I don’t use those wheel weights because they scratch rims so badly I stopped using those wheel weights because of that I used suitcase weights
That looks just fine
Throw away those lock washers. They're proven to be exactly counterproductive. They're useful only as aggregate to be mixed into concrete.
I've never had a problem with em...
@@JoshsGreenGarage Ha. That you KNOW about. How many have loosened bolts & nuts that you aren't aware of?
Really. Look them up. There are studies out there that prove beyond question that they do exactly the opposite of what you expect them to do. And start tightening your fasteners properly, and maybe using Nylocks or distorted nuts where you need locknuts. Or castle nuts with wire. There really aren't any good excuses for split lock washers. Even internal & external star washers far outperform them.
That was a slick idea you had there to keep the weights in place. Also I saw on another video you had stacked them. What size carriage bolt did you use?
I didn’t use a carriage bolt for the stacked ones, well, I may have at first… can’t remember… I only stacked weights on my 758, not the 580. I ended up doing inner weights as well, so I just used all thread. Honestly that’s what I would do, then you get the perfect length. I can get you a measurement on my bolts though, but you can’t stack, I use them with singles on my 210 now.
@@JoshsGreenGarage no need to measure it. I am sure when I put my video out there will be people that tell me how I did it wrong. Thanks for the help. The 210 you picked up was pretty clean. I have 2 JD 430’s and a ZTR 717A.
Already measured haha, the ones I use on the 210 are 6”, you want 2” more for each extra weight, so I’d say 8-8 1/2 would do it.
I wonder if there is a shouldered "Mag" wheel lug nut that would fit the hole and cover the excess stud. I haven't purchased weights for mine yet, so not sure how much room there is around the stud.
There is a good bit of room, would all depend on the nut… if I ever did a second weight, I’d look for something to give a better finish
Hey Josh thanks for the video! I have a 2015 x590. Do you know much about the front cast wheel weights for x500 tractors? I saw them online but not sure if it’s worth having to drill through the wheel base steel. From what I understand the front wheel weights require drilling but I am not 100% sure on that. Do you know how they would install? Thanks!
Yes you would have to drill them. I would hate to do that though... my old 210 has the wheels drilled but I think those were factory back then. Honestly I'd save the frustration and just use front suitcase weights. Way easier and you don't risk screwing up your wheels.
@@JoshsGreenGarage good idea! Appreciate your input!
Would you leave these on while just mowing? Would there be in disadvantage of leaving them on when mowing?
There isn't really a right or wrong answer to that... On one hand, you would want to remove them so you don't compact the ground in your yard more, and if you live where it rains a lot and the ground is always a little soft, you could eventually make ruts in your yard. On the other hand, if you mow a lot on banks or hills, this will help with wheel slip, and give you a lower center of gravity, making it safer on un-level terrain. You also have a much more comfortable ride the heavier the machine.
@@JoshsGreenGarage 👍. Now I just have to decide wether I want to fill the tires or use the wheel weights or maybe both?
What is your setup? as in... What machine? What all attachments? Terrain? I don't quite see the value of filling the tires unless it is a garden (plowing) only or snow clearing only, or loader tractor... Filling a 26x12-12 I want to say adds like 90lbs or so... That is a lot and you can't just take it off... I myself have 2 sets of wheels and tires (X700), so I could fill my ag tires, and swap em to my HDAP for summer grass cutting... But it would be so heavy and such a paint. Comes down to if you really want to move that weight around too... I don't know that id ever do it... SO much easier just adding wheel weight and rear weight.
@@JoshsGreenGarage x590 used for mowing and snow blowing an asphalt driveway.
Yeah I probably wouldn’t bother filling the tires. That’s my opinion though of course. If you are concerned about balancing the snowblower, you can add 368 to the back with 4 wheel weights and 4 suitcase weights.
You can cut the bolts off just make sure you chamfer the end of the bolts to get the nuts on and off easier. Good video man keep it going
Exactly what I was thinking. I'd mount these like Josh did for the ease of mounting them but I wouldn't like having 3/4" of thread protruding either, for several reasons.
I see you swapped rear tires. Do you run chains, if so are they the standard JD chains for the machine?
I didn't swap them, these are standard on the X580. the 580 and 590 with the 54" deck come with them. Don't have chains, I had no intention to use this for snow removal, as I had an ATV for that. I've recently gotten rid of it though, and am going to trade the 580 for a 700 series. the 700 series will be used for snow, but I still don't intend to use chains. Ag tires and weight.
Yep, my 590 came with the same HDHP tires that Josh' machine did, even with the 48" deck. So far, no ill effects on the lawn portion of my property and definitely a plus on the field portion. Paired with the 580 & 590's Differential lock these machines have outstanding traction even w/o chains or weights. Add those and I can't imagine wheel slippage under almost any condition. Deere has things figured out.
Never having wheel weights on any of my tractors before I guess I'm wondering how important they really are? I once owned an Allis Chalmers 416H with mower deck and rear 42" tiller. I mowed and tilled with that machine for 16 years. The tiller would sometimes bounce on hard unbroken ground until I made the first pass, but never the machine. I'm guessing the 416 was about the size and weight of this 590, if not a bit smaller. The tillers themselves are quite heavy and would definitely increase rear traction w/o the need for wheel weights. But this is a worthwhile video to see how you managed the mounting problem and I'm glad you provided it to viewers. Thanks.
So your tractor was a minimum of 216lbs heavier. My wheel weights alone would still make the 580 lighter. The need is largely to lower center of gravity, but also the hitches the implements mount to don't provide downforce, they float, so any weight of the implement doesn't matter once the implement is lowered. The weights help to put the power to the ground. Its not so much a bouncing issue, but with a light tractor and higher power rating, the wheels break traction with ground implements.
@@JoshsGreenGarage That makes sense. I think wheel weights are often recommended when using front-mount implements, like a bucket, blade or snow blower to counter balance the force on the front end. Regardless, I think they have a place in the garage of every serious tractor owner. I may find I need them when pulling a plow or cultivator. Have you considered a front bucket for your 580?
For some reason it said I removed your reply when I went approve it, but now I see it... odd... anyway, I always used the wheel weights (100lbs), and 4 front weights (168lbs) when using rear attachments, mainly to up the weight overall. Plus it helped with drivability overall. The wheel weights don't work against the front end, and the front weights help to counter the force wanting to lift the front from a tool going through the ground, plus helps plant the wheels so you can steer better. never wanted the bucket for the 580. I have now gotten rid of the 580, and have a 758 in its place. CTC makes a really nice loader for this one that I would love to have.
@@JoshsGreenGarage I almost bought a 580 but it only came equipped with a 54" mower and I needed the 48" (here in Oregon). I thought that was odd but it is what it is. The 580 looks to be a fine machine, just like the 590 but for the EFI. I could live w/o the EFI but not with the 54" deck. Your videos have been a big help to me and I thank you for them. I hope you keep posting them as you use your machine.
@@JoshsGreenGarage A 758! I drool. Would love to have a diesel tractor with the PTO and hitch already installed. Plus, the drive-over deck. But the $16K was out of my reach this year and the 590 will probably due nicely - IF I can locate a tiller, plow and/or disc-harrower eventually. Just 06.7 hrs in and I can already tell this is going to be a nice machine.
U want the square in the hole cause I can’t get mine off cause it jst spins on the back and can’t get it off idk ima work on it more try to get it to king up so I can change the tranny fluid