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Installing Wheel Weights and Widening the Front Tires on the 2038R
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- čas přidán 13. 03. 2021
- Installing Wheel Weights and Widening the Front Tires on the 2038R
In this video we added two more sets of wheel weights to the rear wheels on the John Deere 2038R compact tractor. We already had one set of wheel weights so now we have a total of three wheel weights per wheel.
We also removed the front wheels and turn them around to widen the stance on the front of the tractor
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Brock
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Sure appreciate your real-life, down-to-earth videos, Brock. Thanks for not editing out all the hard parts and inefficiencies. Take care man.
Thanks a lot
I bought. Tire chains for the front of my 3025E and they don’t have enough clearance on the axle knuckle. I’m gonna try this to give me the clearance i need hopefully. Thanks for the video 👍
Good work and explaining the widening of the front tires
Should definitely help on hills. Beautiful garage!!!
Thanks
Who would have guessed adding the rear wheel weights would be such a task! Nice job working through it.
Thanks for watching
I hate to be picky, but for the sake of those following your procedure I would advise that you tighten your lug nuts in an alternating pattern. Using a torque wrench is also a good idea when doing the final tightening. We sometimes have issues even when doing everything perfectly, so overlooking little things only increases our chance of problems. Other than that, your video was very informative and helpful.
Thanks
The front pivot is about 7 inches helps a bit, I tried it, but I put it back for stronger axle
I added four wheel weights to my 2025R. It wasn't easy as it looked, and it takes two different hex bolt packages from JD. I was able to attach the first weights myself without to much strain . The second set of weights started off to be more difficult. Had to remove some burrs so the hex bolts slid into the grooves correctly. Then I made some short round wooden dowels, knocked them into position as to secure those hex bolts firmly...after that was able to slide on the second set of weights. During the progress, used lock tight and torqued everything down to specs. All in all it wasn't too bad doing this by myself. I will say these are not just plug n play, and easy to mount as stated. But IMO it's great not having to switch weights around using 3pt. attachments.
Thanks for the feedback
It was definitely more hassle than I was expecting
Brock we live in different world now if you don't do it your self it may not be right even dealers don't know and some don't check
God Bless All
PaK
Thanks for watching
I didn’t think it was confusing @ all. This was very informative & it also shows that you are probably a lot more patient than I, lol!!!😂😂😂
Thanks for the thorough explanation Brock. I feel super uneasy in my new cab tractor on any kind of sloped hill but it is the factory default setup right now with just the rear implement being the ballast. I have no tractor experience other than my 10 hours so far and that could be a little to do with the uneasiness of just not knowing what a tractor feels like normally on a sloped hill if that makes sense. I feel so high in the air and hoping that feeling goes away as I get more experience.
I haven’t been to your channel in a little while but I guess I need to. What kind of tractor did you get
@@RockhillfarmYT Don't be mad at me! I didn't buy a JD. Branson 5520CH
All of the brand warfare is mostly just in fun.
Most all the companies make a good tractor and all that matters is that it does What you need it to
@@RockhillfarmYT Agreed! Why I went with the most bang for my buck.
Good Works Tractor put dual wheels on the back. Check it out. That would add a lot of stability.
Yeah, I think the one I saw him do that was a 1025 but I’m guessing somebody makes it for the two series as well
I'm not going to claim to be the brightest bird in the forest but where the front axle pivots at the pivot point (as engineered) is widening the wheelbase (width) help with stability due to the pivot point in the front axle? I would think widening the rear wheels would help with stability a whole lot more.(?). I'm opening to learning.
Yes, widening the rear is definitely more important. I did that before picking it up from the dealership
After more research I switched them back and did a follow up on why
I also had the fronts set wide on my 2038R. That turned into quite a debate on GTT, while I agreed with most in regards to the front axle damage, I also feel that that also really only applies if someone is picking max or close to on a very regular basis. I didn't like that it made my fronts wider than the 57" bucket, but I also have a 61" bucket that I keep up at the horse barn. I then put the R1's on so I no longer worry about any of that anyway.
Thanks for the feedback
I watch your channel as well
@@RockhillfarmYT I forgot to mention, with the R1's I have a wider front stance in either position. There is only 1" of difference between narrow and wide, but no where in the manual does it state that R1's shouldn't be used with the FEL. Anyway, just saying, I agree with you on the front axle points.
I think I’m going to run them wide most of the time but may switch back for certain things
Now that I have added so much weight to the tractor, mowing with it seems pointless. The cab is an extra 400 as well so it’s going to sink in no matter what
When I need to replace tires I may get an ag tire
The only things I care about in terms of tires is traction and stability
Are you as happy with the MSL as I am?
@@RockhillfarmYT that's not a bad way to look at it, it only takes 5 minutes to swap the fronts around. The Ag tires are great for traction and the ride is far better than the R4's. I do not mow with mine either, so I just wanted the most I can out of this tractor. Though this season I think after we're done with spring tillage and planting I may put the R4's back on until mid fall. The R1 fronts wear much quicker than the R4's, I don't necessarily need the added traction during the summer when we are making hay and brush hogging.
The MSL:
Yes, I have not regretted this move once. I don't see the bucket rollback being as much of a problem as many have mentioned. For pallet forking and moving my round bales it so much better.
@@ElkCreekAcres there’s no way ag tires ride better than R4s
You can't have a pie without whhhhheel whhhheights
What if you took the wheel weight and threaded the bolt through, then added the nut while it was still on the floor. Then pick it up and slip the heads through the keyhole slots, then tighten.
I think that might be a good way to do it
Thanks
I like your videos but for safety, don't stand under your front loader. You never know when a hydraulic line will blow until it happens.
When putting on the second set of weights, could you put the bolts and nut on the second Second set of weight, put the weight up there with the heads through the first one & rotate the weight to get the bolts into the slots on the first weight??
Getting it setup nice! What I did when stacking my weights was put an additional nut on the bolt to first tighten the bolt to the original weight which held the bolt in place while adding the new weight. Mine are 167 pounds each. I really like the looks of a weighted tractor. With my front wheels widened out it makes my bucket more narrow then my wheels which is frustrating at times. You don’t need hardened bolts for the weights, it should be fine. Great video!
Thanks
I have seen others have trouble with the 2nd and 3rd sets of bolts. You must have been ok with the rear 3-inch spacers.
The main problem is that deere tends to give you the wrong bolts
I have the Deere wheel spacers and I’m happy with them. I have a lot of hours with these weights and no issues
Thanks for watching
OK, a couple things… First, the “proper” way to change tires and screw the lug bolts (or lug nuts) onto the implement is to reinsert and tighten OR (to a lesser extent) loosen the bolts / nuts such that the first bolt / nut screwed in helps align the tire or rim, but second bolt / nut should _always_ be opposite the first one. Then continue this process around the wheel. This assures proper seating of the wheel rim. Also, do the final tightening in that order (or similar) order. When one is loosening or re-inserting lug bolts / nuts, the tightening and aligning movement can jar the vehicle / tractor enough to compromise the jack or shift load bearing points of the implement: do this slowly and be careful with an "escape" plan, just in case. Best to, as quickly as possible, get at least two _opposite_ bolts / nuts on the rim so that if the jack fails or the implement’s weight shifts, the two bolts will hold in an emergency. With two bolts right beside each other, there is greater risk that the wheel will still fail to adequately support the implement’s weight. Also, the initial loosening of the bolts / nuts should be done while all wheels are on the ground. Loosening a jacked up implement creates a dangerous situation, one that is easily avoidable. One only has to loosen the bolts ¼ to ½ turn to preclude implement weight shifting during the final re-loosening and re-tightening: minimize risks when ya can. Ditto for the final tightening: wait until the lug bolts / nuts are reasonably tight, lower the implement so the tires are completely resting on the ground, and, then, complete the final bolt / nut re-tightening. A life lesson I have seen a time or two - from others' lack of awareness and technique.
Those “square bolts” for the wheel weights are called carriage bolts. You can easily order them from McMaster-Carr (the best in terms of price, shipping speed, great web site design and searching, etc.), Grainger, etc. These sites allow a person to order whatever length, metal, and strength grade needed / desired. Personally, I would order stainless steel carriage bolts. These are a one-time purchase and would lessen any concern about potential metal degradation from the elements, particularly salted roadways, using too much fertilizer on your land, etc. Inherently, these are corrosive compounds.
I do not recall you mentioning whether or not you “weighted” your rear wheels with a liquid (or something else). The “old” way was to use calcium chloride, anti-freeze or some other corrosive cocktail brew. A different weighting method is to use Rim Guard, a “natural” (sugar) beet juice that has many apparent advantages over the other stuff. Fortunately tractor tires do not go flat as frequently as other vehicles’ tires, but this is an easy, carriage bolt-free way to add about as much tire as 2 or 3 of your weights. And, if you say BeetleJuice three times, you will never get a flat tire…
Yes, I have fluid filled tires.
Can you put wheel weights on the front? It sort of makes you wonder why tractor makers don't address and solve this rollover issue.
I’ve never seen front wheel weights. You can put fluid in the front tires but it doesn’t add very much
Unrelated but the linkage for the belly mower... does it hang down like that all the time?
It always hangs down more than you would want it too but I would have to look and see what position is in right now. I normally try to keep it up as far as it’ll go.
A couple weeks ago I had the controller replaced for the deck height adjustment
I think the front rear axles also are about that same height so probably wouldn’t hit anything that the axle wouldn’t hit
@@RockhillfarmYT reason I ask is I have a 1025r and want to trade up to a 2032/38 but I see the mower linkage hanging so low. I asked Tim on Tractor Time with Tim and he said it’s as far as it will go up. My 1025 it tucks up good and then you lock it to stay up. Also the subframe for the backhoe on the 2038, I have noticed on other videos hangs low too. I’m thinking it’s not the tractor for the woods. I like JD but Kubota what I can see have much more clearance with their comparable size tractors.
@@alittleofthisandalittleofthat I definitely take mine out in the woods. The back of our property is massive rocks, and boulders. I drive through it
If that hardware hangs lower, then that is the trade-off. If you’re going to have a backhoe the attaching hardware may be lower on the John Deere but the backhoe is a lot easier to take off and on
I’ve had my tractor nine months and I probably put the backhoe on 15 times so I appreciate that ease of use
Same with the mower.
Do you also have your tires filled with beet juice or other fluid?
Mine have bio ballast because that is what the local shop uses
hi Brock thanks for sharing this video. by adding wheel weights does this void your factory warranty? I just bought a brand new kioti tractor and ordered rear wheel weights. the dealer told me each weight weighs a hundred pounds and if I add more than one weight per wheel I will void my factory warranty.
Not on my tractor. The owners manual recommend 3 weights per side so that is what I did. 3 is 180 pounds per side. I really like having the extra weight
Did you put rear spacers n too?
I ordered it with the rear spacers when I bought the tractor
Best compact tractor Ballast Options - How to add weight to Your Tractor Without Breaking the Bank
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Thanks for watching
Does this void the warrant in any respect? Thanks.
The owners manual says that it’s OK to flip the front wheels but that you shouldn’t flip them if you are lifting with the loader because it puts extra strain on the front axle.
I’m switched mine back but I fluid filled the front tires now
The owners manual recommends the wheel weights so that of course is not an issue
@@RockhillfarmYT Yea I heard you mention the axle issue near the end of the video. Thanks!
I think the wide stance in the back is much more important when it comes to rollovers. I'm gonna keep my front ones as is as well.
What is the length of the bolt for the first set of weight? I will get the bolt at my local hardware store cux john deere bolts r rip off price!!!
The Bolt kit is definitely overpriced
I mentioned it in the video but I think the first set of bolts is 3 1/2 inches and the other sets are 5 1/2 inch.
It’s been quite a while though so I would reference the video
Where did you get the wheel weights from
I ordered them from my local Deere dealership
Thanks for watching
Read your Owner's Manual before you do or say anything else. You'd be surprised what you'll learn, and you'll become an expert instead if a hack 👍
John Deere use cheap ass bolts n parts n sell it at a GOUCH PRICE!!! bolt grade says 8.8 on lug nuts n bolts so pretty sure its all 8.8 grade.
Thanks for watching
GREAT VIDEO BUT WHY ARE YOU YELLING AT US THE WHOLE TIME?
lol.
What?
@@RockhillfarmYT watch your video. You're almost yelling. Just making a funny comment that could help you improve your next video (if you take the advice).
I appreciate the feedback
I try to record it as loud as possible, because you can always turn your volume down but if it’s too quiet there’s nothing you can do about it as a viewer
Reversing the front wheels does nothing. The front axle articulates in the center.