Saab 9-5 DIY: Front Engine Mount Replacement - Trionic Seven
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- čas přidán 30. 01. 2016
- Video by Olle Bolin. Camera: John Block.
This is how you change the front engine mounts in the Saab 9-5, 2.0 and 2.3 engines, model years 1998-2010. Part numbers can vary according to model year, be sure to get the right version.
Video for replacing the torque rod arm bushing is here: • Saab 9-5 DIY: Torque R...
Tools needed are a basic tools, torque wrench, a piece of wood and a floor jack. Be careful when lifting the gearbox and engine.
Thanks to Olle for making this video!
Swedish: Denna video visar hur man byter de främre motorfästena i en Saab 9-5.
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Brave man, doing this type of work outside in a Swedish winter 👏👏👏
Just amazing. I just got through doing this - something I would have never undertaken without this video. My 2004 Wagon feels so much tighter! Thank you so much for this all the way from NJ USA.
Yep, it makes a huge difference! :D
Thank you, Trionic Seven!! Dame Redna has no more jitters!!
Hey Trionic Seven, thank you so very very much for ALL your highly informative video's, very very interesting also!!! This one on the engine mounts replacement, priceless, thank you so very very much ;-) ;-)
+Its only me!! Glad you like it!
You make this look easy! Can't wait to try it on my 2005 Aero
You made a real nice video and not easy to do outside in the cold winter. Nice job!
Glad you liked the video!
Amazing video and guide.
Just did my '02. But for gearbox mount, I managed to replace it without removing the battery.
Outside in the snow.....like a Boss!
This is a well shot, detailed instruction video. But, I wouldn't go thru all that to take out an old mount just to replace it with another old mount. If I was too cheap to pay the $75 for a new transmission mount I wouldn't own a SAAB.
Yes, the savings on that part alone look underwhelming.
But in all fairness - he said his SAAB had already way above 300000 kms on the clock so I can understand he assumes that before this 50.000 km old replacement fails, something else much bigger will total his car.
Probably he got the mounts on a shopping run across a breaker's yard along with other parts.
I know this is an old video & comment, but figured I'd chime in. I totally understand your point, but his situation is similar to mine. I'm going to a pull & pay this weekend in hopes of acquiring the mounts I need for my Saab. The reason for this is each mount is roughly $125-$200, my Saab has 241,771 miles on her & I've already had numerous repairs in the 3 short months I've owned it. I knew when I bought it, that this was only a temporary car considering the miles & previous maintenance. However, the condition of my mount has gotten so bad that it actually broke my ground & caused a stall a week after I got the car. We only just found the problem a few days ago, so she's been sitting for over 2 months. I fixed up the ground, but every couple of times I drive it, I need to open the hood & tighten that bolt again before she starts. If it had significantly less miles, I'd 100% put in the money for new mounts, but it just doesn't seem worth it to me all things considered.
good job,easy to understand
I may need to do this myself and your video has actually made me feel confident enough to under take it if and when I need to do this. Thank you! I'm glad this can be done with simple hand tools.
Changed my left and right engine mount a few days ago. Much less vibrations and clonkiness. I'm gonna try replacing the rear one too but I'm having a hard time getting all bolts out. I have to get some smaller tools. Mine is a 9-5 2007. Thanks for the guide.
+Daniel Dahlin Glad it helped!
I love your videos. please invest in some extensions and deepwell sockets. Happy Saabing
+thomas harvey Thanks! I will forward your tip to Olle! :)
Hey Olle, I drive nearly the identical car, '03 Saab 9-5 Aero Wagon, manual. I've already replaced all of the motor mounts except the rear lower. I'm looking forward to watching you replace that one, it's difficult to get to. Nice video !!
Hi Brett, I did the rear. It took a while but was worth it. I wouldn't say I'm an expert or anything so I believe anywould could do it with the right tools and some patience. I followed these "guides": saabworld.net/showthread.php?t=30455
Fantastic video! I'll be replacing the driver side transmission mount on my 2000 9-5 5spd soon. Do you happen to know the torque spec for that mount?
I'm getting my 95 aero tomorrow 🥰🥰
GOOD job,l love your video!
Thanks!
Great video as always. I ve got exactly the same late 03 manual with exactly the same, newer engine version and PCV. It recently developed vibration at idle which is felt on the steering wheel, gearbox and on my back in chair. It strengthens when Ac is on. When I drive the vibration disappears. Do you think engine mounts are a culprit? Changing gears is immaculate.
I did the rear motor mount yesterday, now i know why you didnt make a video about changing that one
Salut Trionic, merci pour cette vidéo, elle m'a bien aidé à faire les miens. Mais comment faire pour celui de l'arrière maintenant ?
This is the Most Swedish thing i ever seen
I am sitting here thinking ... meh its too hot/cold/w-e outside to go to the car to change the dash bulbs, id do it when i can secure a garage or something.
And here is trionic7 replacing front ENGINE MOUNTS in the snow ...
Love the fact you're doing it in winter outside and left the part in where you dropped the spanner into the engine bay---A place where 13mm sockets go to disappear.....
very informative and easy to do. Only recommendation i would i make is to use an extension bar on your ratchet when doing the bolts 👍😊
Good tip!
Är från malmö till arlöv du kör på videon ? bra info
Did you manage to fix the problem? Iam having similar issues but with a 07 saab
Quick tip; before u lift the engine up loosen the big middle nut on the elkhorn.
+kIM0h1 Good tip, thanks!
So did this end up fixing the problem?
Hi there, thanks for your video, I replaced the two fronts mounts, but vibration still exist although the two old mounts are all broken, and I replaced all vacuum lines, spark plugs and cleaned throttle body and MAF, no improvement, and the gas consumption getting very high, less than 15mpg, I found the vacuum valve installed in firewall inlet broke, I fixed with glue, no leaking now, do you think that vacuum valve cause these problems? Thanks
Jump in and ask in our community forum! facebook.com/groups/733705113501723/
Hi Olle,
I think you gave a lot of people hope to fix their own vehicles! I have a question about the procedure. Im used to working on my BMW, this is my first Saab. On my bmw, when i changed the motor mounts, I first unscrewed the bolts before jacking the engine up. I noticed you did this first. does this matter? How do you know how far to jack it up?
Thanks!
For this motor mount you only need to unload the mount with the jack before loosening. Jack the motor up just ever so slightly and then it's easy peasy.
I like your accent.
grym video, vad heter det du bytte på Svenska?
+Glenn Viking Motorfäste
Are the mounts in same location and same proceedure for a 9-5 2.2 tid on a 2004 year car?
No, don't think so. WIS should have more information.
Do you have a video on the rear motor mount ?
Sorry no, the rear mount is very difficult AFAIK
The shifting bump is often caused by a faulty valve body. I had this happening until it was replaced with a rebuilt one which used stainless steel parts instead of the aluminum that GM forced Saab to use. No problems since.
That's interesting, could you elaborate please? What valve body are you talking about? Is it the throttle body?
The elk horn is called a yoke
Thanks for another great video! Did you also experience bad/notchy shifting while you had the clunking sound? I am about to swap my mounts too but I've read that many times it's the subframe bushings. Already changed my torque arm bushing. Improved a bit. Looking forward to the rear mount replacement video :) Keep it up!
+Daniel Dahlin The shifting itself feels fine, the sound appears when i release the clutch pedal. After replacing these mounts and the torque rod bushings, I'm also leaning more against the subframe bushings being the real problem.
+Olle Bolin Looking at your right-side engine mount you put in, could it be that that mount is worn out? It looked soft from when you torqued it down.
Is it possible that when the motor mount breaks the engine stutters and speed takes a while to accelerate?
Don't think so. Open the hood and drive slowly while braking to see if the engine moves.
What is important about the "elkhorn" you removed on the left side?
It's one of the engine mounts
check the subframe bushings.
+kIM0h1 That is my suspicion, too.
mine need doing too. my garage is doing it. not a job for amateurs....or is it ??
Is the driver's side mount the same on an automatic?
I would think it's not.
I have an automatic 2004 9-5 and I am replacing mine this weekend, with one I got from Pro Parts Sweeden that looks identical to that one. Paid $45 for it.
Worthwhile checking the serpentine belt and tensioner while that "elkhorn" is off.
Informative video, thanks.
Just done mine and replaced the shoe horn with a chrome one very snice p.s couldent of done it with out you thanks millions
Awesome, good work.
11:40 my motor mount can fall all the way to the base of the bucket . I take it , it's not supposed to be able to do that?
No, and it shouldn't move to sides, if it's easy to move to sides just change it with better, not the new one but better from used shops or people, cuz these thinks are expensive
Isn't there supposed to be another bushing on the passenger side upper? You might be missing the other one... Not sure how big a deal it is though.
There's just one on the passenger side
Trionic Seven they must have just done it on a few cars because mine does have a second bushing
I would change the belt while you have passenger side mount out, they're cheap enough compared to the mounts!!
Couldn't work in the cold like that
Its just about being a man. You know some girls are like 'Ooh I might get chilly if I work out there' but then you just have to think 'Aghhhh beefcake!' and get to it.
I jest. I think its just whatever you're accustomed to. I hate hot humid climates like Floruda but I see alot of car guys there.
Very fortunate that 18mm is on there like Thor tightened it
I did this yesterday. After I reconnected the battery, I discovered that now my windows do not work . No up, no down. Nothing .
Check saabwisonline.com maybe youre fuse is broken or something