We know what you meant when you said mainsheet scotta randa; for drizza principale we say main halyard. You are absolutely correct: to tune a mast you do not need a tension gauge, your eyes will tell you what you need to know. Proof is your mast perfectly tuned. Not that it matters here (bc it was not shown or mentioned), but when centering the rig, keep the main halyard away from the lazy jack influencing it. Swinging the halyard between the jacks and the mast when taking it to the opposite side would affect that distance on one side or the other. Instead, swing the halyard around the back of the lazyjacks when going from side to side. If you are reading this to learn more after watching this video, please remember that when the spreaders sweep aft, tensioning the high shroud (upper) relative to the lower shroud will increase prebend, that is the bend you start with before tensioning the backstay. This is because a tighter upper, combined with a raked spreader, shoves the middle of the mast forward through compression of the spreader. Rake is how much the mast leans (leaning aft is implied) and more rake (aft) will increase weather helm (makes the boat want to head up). Bend, on the other hand, ALSO moves the mast tip aft, but unlike rake (leaning aft), bending the rig moves the tip aft by bending the middle of the mast forward. The effect from bending the mast aft instead DECREASES weather helm, by flattening and de-powering the mainsail. Too much bend is obvious bc there will be a sharp crease running diagonally across the front ends of the battens to the masthead. There are lots of videos on mast tuning, here we are learning from an expert, Marco (not me lol). Thank you, Marco
Marco hello my name is Peter and I have a 21.7s, do me a nice video on the exact procedure to arm the tree with the original kit beneteau. thank you very much and congratulations on your videos
Hi Marco. Very good video. I have firtst 211 and I think my forestay (genoa shroud..)s too long. There are only two holes on bow for adjusting the lenght. Are there any other solution for shortening forestay? I already made a third hole on bow..
Hi Samo, do you have the standard plastimo furler? Is your boat neutral or Is it willing to point into the wind by itself? Do you feel it un-balanced when sailing upwind? If so, it Might be that your mast is pointing backward and you need to push it forward by reducing the forestay; if not, you don't need to tension the forestay, but the high shrouds. We have a fb group called beneteau first210, 211, 21.7s, 20twenty. You can join us and have extensive tips
Yes I have standard plastimo furler. I tried your metod of adjusting mast tension and when high shroufs are not too tight the halyard is already 40cm from mast. You mentioned 20 to 30cm is enough. I will be glad to join your FB group. Thanx.
@@samo-nx2pl check wheather there is space in front part of the mast between its step and the metal plate where you have the haylard blocks. Did you already moved the forestay pin to the closest position to the bow eye using the plastimo plates? You should be able to put almost no space between the two, only a hole.
We know what you meant when you said mainsheet scotta randa; for drizza principale we say main halyard. You are absolutely correct: to tune a mast you do not need a tension gauge, your eyes will tell you what you need to know. Proof is your mast perfectly tuned. Not that it matters here (bc it was not shown or mentioned), but when centering the rig, keep the main halyard away from the lazy jack influencing it. Swinging the halyard between the jacks and the mast when taking it to the opposite side would affect that distance on one side or the other. Instead, swing the halyard around the back of the lazyjacks when going from side to side.
If you are reading this to learn more after watching this video, please remember that when the spreaders sweep aft, tensioning the high shroud (upper) relative to the lower shroud will increase prebend, that is the bend you start with before tensioning the backstay. This is because a tighter upper, combined with a raked spreader, shoves the middle of the mast forward through compression of the spreader.
Rake is how much the mast leans (leaning aft is implied) and more rake (aft) will increase weather helm (makes the boat want to head up). Bend, on the other hand, ALSO moves the mast tip aft, but unlike rake (leaning aft), bending the rig moves the tip aft by bending the middle of the mast forward. The effect from bending the mast aft instead DECREASES weather helm, by flattening and de-powering the mainsail. Too much bend is obvious bc there will be a sharp crease running diagonally across the front ends of the battens to the masthead.
There are lots of videos on mast tuning, here we are learning from an expert, Marco (not me lol). Thank you, Marco
Thank you very much for this Marco - very clear and well thought out explanation!
Thank you Marco. Very useful and needed info.
hi from Nova Scotia Canada thanks for the tips
Ciao Marco, bel video, grazie! Hai forse le misure che mostri da condividere?
ciao Marco
intendevo come si usa esattamente il kit per disalberare, originale del FIRST 21.7s
grazie per la risposta
Merci!
Marco hello my name is Peter and I have a 21.7s, do me a nice video on the exact procedure to arm the tree with the original kit beneteau. thank you very much and congratulations on your videos
Ciao Pietro, non ho capito.. intendi come si albera?
Hi Marco. Very good video. I have firtst 211 and I think my forestay (genoa shroud..)s too long. There are only two holes on bow for adjusting the lenght. Are there any other solution for shortening forestay? I already made a third hole on bow..
Hi Samo, do you have the standard plastimo furler? Is your boat neutral or Is it willing to point into the wind by itself? Do you feel it un-balanced when sailing upwind? If so, it Might be that your mast is pointing backward and you need to push it forward by reducing the forestay; if not, you don't need to tension the forestay, but the high shrouds. We have a fb group called beneteau first210, 211, 21.7s, 20twenty. You can join us and have extensive tips
Yes I have standard plastimo furler. I tried your metod of adjusting mast tension and when high shroufs are not too tight the halyard is already 40cm from mast. You mentioned 20 to 30cm is enough. I will be glad to join your FB group. Thanx.
@@samo-nx2pl check wheather there is space in front part of the mast between its step and the metal plate where you have the haylard blocks. Did you already moved the forestay pin to the closest position to the bow eye using the plastimo plates? You should be able to put almost no space between the two, only a hole.