How To Climb The Matterhorn
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- čas přidán 4. 06. 2024
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A complete guide to climbing the Matterhorn, from Zermatt, Switzerland. This iconic mountain has drawn people to climb it for more than 150 years. Find out how you, too, can enjoy this most beautiful mountain!
Be sure to subscribe for more climbing and other adventures (Everest Base Camp next)!
For a quick 15 minute video with all the pretty pictures and none of the talking, check out my other climb video here: • Climbing the Matterhor... .
Also catch our next adventure to Everest Base Camp and on Instagram and CZcams: / wholenutsanddonuts
• Whole Nuts and Donuts ...
Table of Contents for the video
Introduction: 0:00
Why Climb the Matterhorn: 0:43
Why a How-To Video: 1:35
My Credentials: 2:20
Training: 4:15
Expenses: 5:15
Guide or no guide: 8:15
Equipment: 9:35
Thoughts on training: 12:20
Zermatt: 14:00
Acclimatizing - The Riffelhorn: 14:32
Things to do in Zermatt: 15:40
The Climb - Day One: 15:55
The Climb - Day Two: 18:20
Ascent: 20:00
Descent: 27:15
Future Plans: 30:50
Shopping list from this video (if you click one of these, you help support us--thank you)!
I've included women's versions where applicable
Note: some products I'm wearing are older, so linked products might be updated or alternate versions of what I'm wearing
---Base Layer
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I highly recommend Jeff Witt: from back-country trek to climbing Mount Everest, he's your man! jwittguide@yahoo.com.
Catch our new video series, Whole Nuts and Donuts, where we prepare for our trip to Nepal! First video is here (be sure to subscribe to catch them all): • Whole Nuts and Donuts ...
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• Whole Nuts and Donuts ... - Sport
This video made me sweat in front of my computer. Congratulations on this incredible achievement! I could never do what you've done!
Yes you could.
Terrifying stuff...
And the ridge at the top lol....
Btw: search up "matterhorn speed world record solo" etc looool
This is a fantastic video John and firstly, huge congratulations on climbing such an iconic mountain and for producing such an amazing documentary of your trip as well as terrific photos.
We visited Zermatt in 2015 when they were celebrating the 150th anniversary of the first climbing of the mountain by Edward Whymper in 1865, and were thankfully blessed with glorious weather for the entire week in which we were there. The Matterhorn was the only mountain in the world that I had absolutely wanted to see with my own eyes and it did not disappoint - in fact, we were completely blown away by it ! I don't think that any mountain dominates its surroundings in the same way that the Matterhorn does to Zermatt and we took so many photographs of it, as well as recording on our I Pod the lighting up of the route each night with the solar lamps that Swiss guides had placed on the mountain.
However, where I differ from all mountaineers is that, whilst I can appreciate the incredible beauty and grandeur of the mountain, I would be absolutely terrified of trying to climb it (or any other mountain for that matter !). I have always been at a complete loss to understand how such an activity can be so pleasurable ? Even just seeing the summit ridge on film made me feel ill, and I simply cannot comprehend that it can be wide enough to stand on, let alone walk along or pass people on. I don't think that I have a daring bone in my body and I would love someone to explain to me how hanging on to the side of a mountain with a sheer drop of thousands of feet all around you can be fun.
No doubt my inability to understand might be judged by mountaineers to be some kind of brain malfunction, but I am more than happy to admire the beauty from afar without feeling that I need to go to the top. If someone can put it into words, it would help me to perhaps appreciate the sport more, without wishing to join in !
Good luck with your future climbs John - as I say, this is a brilliant and very helpful film for all climbers out there - and thanks so much for sharing your experiences with all of us (non-climbers like me included !).
Hi, first thanks for the good thoughts. I'm really glad you enjoyed the video and it gave you a vicarious trip up the Matterhorn! :)
On the "why" front, wow.... that's something that's bothered people since mountain climbing started. I believe it was George Mallory who said "because it's there" for why he tried Everest. I certainly think you're very normal not to want to get off the ground and do scary things: millions of years of evolution have taught us not to be stupid, and climbing a high rocky ridge is stupid for sure! There's a theory, called sensation theory (I touch on it here: czcams.com/video/DUokFiBznt8/video.html) that claims we live in too safe of a world now, so some of us get a bit nutty and want to experience that primal fear we used to get "for free" just from living around so many dangers. I can certainly buy that as part of the reason to climb mountains, or jump out of planes, or SCUBA dive to very low depths.
For me, at least, there's the additional draw of the "can you do it?" In other words, do I have the physical and mental fortitude to set my mind to a goal 6-8 months out, and train myself to get to a point where I can make it happen. That's a very fulfilling feeling, to achieve a goal that takes a lot of time and effort to work toward. I am also very drawn to going to places and seeing things that not a lot of others have seen before. I very much enjoy the journey once I get to doing something like climbing. The experience is very intense, often kind of icky (type 2 fun for sure!), but there are moments of pure joy, and these moments make up the most memorable parts of my life... like mountains sticking out above the plane of normal life! ;) That all seems worth the effort to me.
I'm not sure if this answer helps at all, but that's my best thought on the subject, at least first thing in the morning!
Do be sure to subscribe here if you haven't yet: Lane and I are training to go to Everest Base Camp in May, and I'll be climbing Lobuche Peak--a "little" 6,000m peak (the Matterhorn is around 4,500m)--at the time. I'm sure we'll have lots of really cool pictures and video from that trip as well!
Thanks again for watching and writing: you're a big reason I made the video!
Awesome video!!! As a long time Atlanta resident, now even lower in altitude in Tampa, I felt your acclimatization pain! I was actually born in Switzerland, so I was feeling an almost moral obligation to climb this peak until I saw the Summit Ridge video footage! That was appallingly steep in all directions!
Fantastic coverage, thank you! Zermatt is my most favorite place on the planet and i've always been intrigued with climbing the iconic rock! Cheers!
Thanks John. Your video is excelent and inspiring. I am 66yrs and you have me stoked for next year!
This is a great video! Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Extremely impressive, congratulations on your climb. Thank you for the video.
Rocking Rolling thanks so much! I’m glad it’s a fun and useful video!
John, fantastic video! Appreciate you taking the time to describe the logistics of ascent, looking forward to more of your videos
Victor Genty thanks! Be sure to check out my Lobuche peak (6000m peak in Nepal) and Everest base camp videos. They’re fun too. :)
the most realistic and honest post re matterhorn! just what I experienced too! great footage! thank you!
Awesome video and great information! Thanks a lot buddy!
I’m so disappointed to see the crowds, but I guess it’s to be expected now. The Hornli hut apparently holds 180 people! My brother and I climbed it in 1973 when we were 15 and 17. The hut was tiny, the caretaker woke you up at the hour you asked for, there were no fixed ropes and only about 15 other people on the mountain that day (July). We left around 2am and we were back in Zermatt by midnight (we’d already spent a month in Charmonix). I’m so pleased for you that you reached the summit and clearly had a wonderful time: I can hear it in your voice. From Zermatt we climbed the north face of the Eiger, and I see that it now costs about $7000 to hire a guide for that two day trip!!!! Terrible what’s happened to the wilderness. With my best regards. Best of Luck
Great video! Thanks. Looking forward to checking out more of your videos!
This is the best video of climbing the Matterhorn. Very interesting and informative.
Really useful video from start to finish. Plugged a gap on youtube regarding matterhorn climbing for sure. Thanks buddy
Sanjin Bajgoric thanks! I’m so glad it’s useful! And don’t forget about Lobuche Peak in the Himalaya (6119m). I just completed the climb and will do a video as soon as I get back to the states. :)
I climbed it in 1999 when I was in my mid 30s. I have climbed a lot of well know peaks and numerous one in the Alps. The Matterhorn was by far the scariest and most challenging. My one key bit of advice would be do not attempt without a guide.
I absolutely agree: just route finding alone is really tough on the mountain. It's surprisingly difficult to figure out where to go, exactly, and if you get "off piste," it can get sketchy really soon. Great advice :)
Tom Lohr
My brother and I climbed the Northface in 1973 when I was 17 and he was 15. It was the year that Warren Blesser and Niels Anderson were swept off the nothface by an avalanche. We were below and to the left of them, protected by a rock face. We down climbed the Hornli ridge. Never found route finding difficult except after we were down in the valley 24 hours later and trying to find our way to Zermatt. Next project was Eiger Nordwand. That was a long time ago, and there was no social media so we did things quietly and without fanfare.
Nice video. Personal opinion is hornli route is it's not a very enjoyable climb. The rock quality is pretty poor. Felt like I was climbing a pile of rubble at times..Kind of a zero star classic vs a 5 star one
Very good opinions, Impressions, tips, advices for the preparation phase - thank you ....
Thank You for this film. All very useful info for planning our next step from walking and climbing in Scotland. Cheers.
Great HOW TO ... many many thanks for that one and ... RESPECT & CONGRATS !!!
Ingo Lengersdorf thanks and happy new year to you!
Great video! Thanks for all of the useful information!!
Very good and useful. Thax for sharing your experience
Brilliant video ... Thanks for doing this.. VERY helpful 🏔💪🏔
Terrific video, thank you for providing all these details. I'm just back from Zermatt last week (hiked up to the Hörnli hut) and plan to do a guided climb of the Horn in 2020, and this was REALLY very useful - thanks!
John Horgan so glad it was useful. Have a fantastic climb when you get to do it. It’s an awesome mountain!
I love your methodological approach to the whole matter! Keep it up, alpinist brother!
Great video. I was thinking about summitting without a guide but now think otherwise. Thanks for posting this.
Fantastic video. Thanks for posting this.
Fantastic informative video - Many Thanks!
thx so much for taking the time and effort to produce this. So helpful and appreciate your spirit of generosity.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic video. Really motivating!
very nice video. We just got back from Zermatt and hiked to the Matterhorn hut but didn't plan to summit just getting as high as we could on a day hike. But you're right about the last ride down. We had to do a bit of trail running to get literally the last gondola and on Sept 11 that was 4:45pm. I summited Denali when I was in college and a lot of Colorado & California peaks and Mt. Kenya 4 times and Kili 3 years ago (we live in Kenya) but at 65 not sure I could do the full Matterhorn as much as your "first time" video inspires me to do so.
Well done! Thanks for sharing!
Wow! Very impressive ! Thanks for posting this. 😀
Thanks, loved it
Awesome! Well done 👏
Thank you for this movie! It's very helpful, while I"m preparing for climb this Horn of the Mother this summer. Greetings from Poland
Great information. Hopefully I can apply some of it to my attempt at Dufourspitze (Monte Rosa) this summer.
Simon Dekker Linnros glad it helped!
This was great. I'm happy for it to be my experiential substitute - I had sweaty palms watching some of shots.
Thank you especially for useful informations
Thanks for this great video. I do a lot of 14ers in Colorado and 18'000 Mount Damavand in Iran. Before this video I used to think of Matterhorn as this scary, very technical climb but this changed my mind. I realized several mountain that I have already done were harder than this. I really want to do this mountain now👍👌
aria alizadeh do it! It’s a long mountain to climb because it’s up the ridge but technically it’s not too bad. And the hardest parts all have fixed ropes anyway so you can motor right through them. :). Depending on routes I’d expect some of those 14k Colorado mountains were more technical.
Great video. Thank you for sharing
Thanks man! Love this! Big help 💪💪
Great watch. I was on the Matterhorn at 16 back in 1994, the weather turned us back, went back the next year and cracked it. I enjoyed your video as I have forgotten a lot of it. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it. It’s a gorgeous climb!
Well done on the climb and this is a really useful video
Great video. Respect!
Congratulations and thank you for sharing your experience and all the amazing info! I'm planning to climb It in the coming weeks if the conditions will allow It!
14:16 I'm currently staying in that hotel (Matterhorn Lodge) watching your video 😂👌
Silence dude nice!! I’d guess you’ll be up in an hour or so to climb it. Good luck and let me know when you get back. Enjoy the experience!!
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 No sadly not. I'm here with my family and they are not really mountaineers... It's just a family trip. We just do normal hikes this time. The past 3 times I was in Zermatt I climbed a few mountains (Castor, Pollux, Breithorn and the Dom). I would really like to climb the Matterhorn, but for now I have a different plan. After I finish school next year I want to climb the Pik Lenin and I'm already training really hard, because it's really not easy to climb a 7000 m Mountain. So hopefully next year around this time I will be on the summit :D
Silence that’s awesome! I just did 6000 Peak in Nepal- Lobuche Peak (you can see the video of it on this channel). It was significant due to the altitude but with training and time it wasn’t that bad. :). Good luck!
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 Wow I saw the video. It's a great mountain. Its so impressive how every other mountain around there seems to be higher 😮
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 Actually I'm not too sure if I will ever climb the Matterhorn. We walked to the Hermetji Hut 3 days ago and had a chat with one of the waiters. He told us that they want to close the Matterhorn for climbers in the next years, because the Mountain is not safe enough anymore, since the permafrost goes away and makes the Rocks very loose. Already 4 climbers died in the 10 days we were in Zermatt R.I.P.
Thanks for the information!!Great video.
Andreas Droussiotis glad you enjoyed it!
This is awesome! Not only the images, but also the information and editing.
Thanks!
That was superb. Hit the button. Exactly the kind of info needed.
Thank you!
Very nice pictures.
I have climbed the matterhorn 30 years ago And now I have downloaded your wonderful video (for an Abo). Thanks a lot. And god bless you.👍🌈
Thanks for putting together this great video. I'm planning to climb in August this year (pandemic permitting) and am roughly the same age and have the same experience as you. All those small but helpful tips (3l of water, small axe, etc) are really helpful. I'm also going to do it guided. It'll be my first time using a guide so nice not to have to do the route finding! Two questions for you. Do you rappel at all on the way down or is it 100% down climbing? What grade would say the most technical pitch is? cheers and thanks again for a terrific video.
Amazing video been looking for something like this congrats on the summit
Tyler Madani thanks much. Here’s hoping you get there soon too!
Cool video, thanks for such a detailed share. I visited Zermatt last year and did a lot of hiking but never would've thought a Matterhorn summit was even possible - its so pointy! Cool to see everything it takes.
Well next time you go you have to give it a try!! :)
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 I truly don't think I have the stomach for this type of climbing, watching the videos is exhilarating enough for me! Seeing you shuffle past people going the other way on the summit's knife ridge gave me serious anxiety LOL not sure I'd manage up there, though it would be a spectacular view.
Great video, thank you!!
Just found this video and wow! So impressive and grateful for the work you put into it. I’ve watched it 3 times now and have a planned climb that’s guided with my wife on our honeymoon. Been training for a while and am quite nervous but excited!
Good for you both! It’s an amazing experience. Be prepared but mostly enjoy it together! ❤️
Please make sure that you consumate the nuptials before you climb it, (just in case)!
Thank you so much for such a fantastic guide. Zermatt is one of my favourite places & I definitely want to climb the horn one day :)
Jonny G I fell in love with both. Can’t wait to get back... after this awful virus goes away!
I loved that thank you. My father climbed the Matterhorn and your video helped me understand what he experienced. You will love Nepal, hiking the Annapurna circuit might have been the best couple weeks of my life.
We ended up doing Everest which was astounding. Can’t wait to go back and do Annapurna!
At 75 there is no way l will get to climb the Matterhorn, but many thanks to this well made video, l get a look into what a very smart approach to it would be.......many thanks for taking the time to make this old guy happy.
!!!
So amazing. if I was young and fit I would go. Those days are over. Do it when you can guys--life zooms by. Just love your video.
That’s exactly why my bucket list is organized by physical capabilities. Time really does fly by!
Excellent video! I've summitted Mt. Rainer, and Kilimanjaro, and I made it to 21,900' on Aconcagua before I had to turn around due to a frozen eyeball (that I made a full recovery from). I'm going to try the Matterhorn in 2022.
This video has helped me a lot to know what to prepare for. Thanks!
Yikes. A frozen eyeball sounds awful!! I got to the top of Lobuche in Nepal 20075’ or so). You can watch that video on my channel too if you want. Good luck with the Matterhorn. It’s a slog but what a mountain!!
Great video. Thank you
SkiingQuinHat glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent vid. Thank you. Skied at Zermatt once upon a time. What an amazing part of the world. I certainly remember it being uber expensive! Would love to climb the Matterhorn. Definitely on the bucket list.
I’d love to ski there too! And yes, it’s one of the most expensive places I’ve visited. Lovely, but your sure pay for it. :)
Really enjoyable video. Well done
Hi.
Very nicely done - the narration, organization, photography, and of course - your success in climbing.
God Bless for safe climbs and trips!
Ken Brenner thanks. I’m so glad you enjoyed it!
Well done and thanks for the video! It's one of the most comprehensive and informative videos i've seen in a long time, superb stuff. Even if you did beat the Scottish guys to the summit ;-)
Great video; well done-thank you. . .
The summit ridge video had me tense up! What a place that must have been.
Absolutely glorious. And terrifying! :)
Of all the videos that I have seen of Matterhorn, this one was by far the best, especially in terms of giving perspective into the "behind the scenes" and more importantly, some aspects of the downclimb which most people (for obvious reasons) don't put in their videos. Thank you!
Thanks so much for watching and I’m glad you found it helpful!
Thank you very much, i’m thinking about doing it
Well orchestrated mate, on the level and loaded with useful information.
No Body thanks!
You’re welcome good sir. 🇦🇺
very usefull thank u so much im planning to climb my first time bcs i just in love matterhorn
alimaa alimaa good luck! And let me know how it goes. It is an amazingly beautiful maintain for sure!
Will you go there in 2021. ?
Great video thanks.
Brilliant video, thank you
Matt Cooper-Kay glad you enjoyed it!
Possibly the most informative vid for this peak that I've seen so far. Well done staying safe and sharing crucial points of the climb. Bravo!
Dimitrios Greek thanks! I’m so glad you found it useful!
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 are you th8nking about the North Face of the Eiger?
@@jamisbillson4872 oh man I think I might be too old for that!! It would be a hell of a climb though!
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 it’s that enormous grassy slope before reaching that actual face that terrifies me first. If I wasn’t ill I’d be saving to trek the Himalayas. Especially around K2. Staggering scenery.
@@jamisbillson4872 have you see our Everest base camp video? I highly recommend that trek too if you can manage it!
Awesome John
Looks awesome but terrifying! Congrats on making it to the summit and back John!
Thanks! It’s honestly more scary looking back on it than it was at the time! 👍
Great video mate
Superb video and effort sir!
Thanks! And I’m guessing you’re a fellow vegetarian as well. :)
Awesome video!!
Liam Brown thanks. So glad you like it!
Great video! I was there in 1973. Wish I would have had all this info then.
Well John,Best Amateur climbing video I’ve seen..
Your Pops would be Proud.
Nice one.
Jakedegaye awww. Thank you! Folks appreciating the video really make it worth the effort!
Go Dawgs! Being from Georgia I always wanted to climb but not much to practice on in Loganville Ga …congrats
Great video. Well done.
Thank you!
Great video and lot of good information! I also did the same route in july 2018. Wish I had seen this first. Was not prepared for the exposure on the Egg climb on Riffelhorn :)
Gunnar Már Gunnarsson we must have been there around the same time! I believe I summited on the 23rd. And yes: the Riffelhorn was a bit of a shock to start on: I came up from sea level and did that the next day. Weee!! :)
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 I summited on the 17th so we were there almost at the same time :)
Hi Jon,
Great video!
I'm planning to climb the Matterhorn in September with a guide.
I have experience climbing but I find it difficult to determine what kind of physical condition you need to have. I live in Switzerland so I do regular hikes in the weekend. But do you maybe have a reference in terms of running (distance/time) or something else?
Thank you!
Wow. That summit. My fear of heights sensation would be off the scale up there.
Fun to watch nonetheless! I am hiking to Hornli hut in a few days. I hope to catch a glimpse of some of you climbers while I’m there. I’ll stick to hiking though!
nice video, helpful
Awesome man.
Thanks for a great video packed with useful info. I successfully made the climb in July of 71 when I was 24. I spent a week in Zermatt to get in condition and found the climb to be one of the most physically demanding experiences I had ever done. My total cost for the week was under $500 including the hotel, equipment rental and the services of a mountain guide for a day and a half. I attempted to get up to the Hornli Hutt last year but the mountain was still closed in late May. Too much snow. Maybe will try again next summer and wait until August.
Woo--1971?! You got me beat by a couple of years! Congrats on the climb: as I'm sure everyone who's done it knows it is a hard thing to do for sure. And good luck getting to the Hornli Hutt next time. Even getting there and seeing the mountain up close is absolutely amazing!
@@wholenutsanddonuts5741 - this was my first trip back to Zermatt since 1971. It certainly has changed. The climbers have been replaced by the skiers. May is a down month there as most businesses are closed for several weeks. I hear it picks up again around mid June. I wanted to stay at Hotel Bahnhoff where I had stayed before. It still is there but it was closed. The family that ran it when I was there were the Biners and they catered to climbers. I met some really interesting folks there, including a couple of Japanese guys that climbed the North face in the middle of the winter. They had come back in the summer to do it again in better weather.
Thanks for this informative video, when it comes to the guide where about did you organise one was it in zermatt town centre or the restaurant place enroute to the mountain and also can you rent the equipment in the same place or?. Thanks
Thanks for this. Hope you made it to Nepal in 2019. I'm most concerned about the downclimb of the Matterhorn, catching a crampon point at 4400 or being able to negotiate the rocky parts (face in or face out?)
Just contributed to your goal of reaching 1000!
Mr. Gibbs (John if I may) I enjoy all of your videos… funny how through technology you can develop friends you have never met from all over the world.
Thank you!
This is an amazing video.
TechnoCraft thank you. Was a good deal of work but I made the video I wish I could’ve seen before I went!
So awesome
You speak of the Swisspass... it is actually the Halbtax you will need and it saves you 20% for the gondulas etc. in Zermatt and 50% for the trainticket to get to Zermatt.
This is such a beautiful and useful video! Previously I have only found ones that made it look like a piece of cake, and even if it was with commentary, it commented on difficulties that came up at their level of climbing, which was difficult for me to ascertain. Now, after your much more specific descriptions placing this climb into context for me, it is pretty clear to me I'm nowhere near the shape I need to be to attempt this climb - and that it is really about the shape first, fear of heights second (I, to my knowledge, don't have a fear of heights, but I haven't been on such exposed terrain yet, so I also need to test that before attempting the Matterhorn).
Regardless, I am in love with this mountain and want to climb it one day, when I will be suited for it! So please allow me a question: how much time did it take for you to ascend vs to descend? Not so that I can decide I can do it in the same amount of time, but to see the ascent-to-descent ratio I should be expecting - perhaps!
I’m not a climber and will never climb Matterhorn but nice video! Found it interesting
Yea, I'm one of the other donkeys which were left out of frame (2:05) so a massive thank you!
Really inspiring video. I was in Zermatt a couple of years back and couldn't take my eyes off the Matterhorn , it looked so inviting yet so dangerous. Congratulations on your tremendous achievement and success in making a very informative video . I'm still trying to assess what it would take to get to Hornlihutte . I'm 72 yrs old and wanted to get a little closer to this beautifully tormenting icon and just touch it.
Thank you. I’m glad you enjoyed the video. It’s true the Matterhorn is something inspiring and terrifying. It’s so jagged it’s almost mean looking! If you want to get to the hornlihutte you should just make a two day trip of it. Book a night at the hut and enjoy the spectacular sunset and sunrise! It’s just a couple of hours each way to get up and back from the gondola.
Thank you John for your reply, your suggestions are very encouraging and seem quite possible for older fellow like myself. Can't seem to get old for some reason and always feel like I can conquer the world but after seeing you walk that summit ridge I think a little reality set in. So, Hornlihutte will be my goal. How on earth did you manage to pass by that person on the top 😀 . Many thanks. Paul
@@PaulSmith-ff1wy hahahaha! It is quite the intense experience being up there! In a weird way it was easier doing it for real than watching even my video. I guess you just get really focused and try not to think about any mistakes. Good luck. You’ll make the hut for sure. It’s a spectacular hike!
The ridge to the summit...mind blowing
I was terrified before I went but the view was so amazing that it was all good while I was up there. :)
I was planning to do Matterhorn in 2020 but the Coronavirus hit and all the travels stopped.
Since then your video was in my watch later, I hope I'll be able to do this in June however it seems 50-50 this year too.