VW T4: 2.5L no start / no spark (part 1)
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- čas přidán 3. 07. 2024
- Part 2:
• VW T4: 2.5L Spark plug...
Thomas
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Looking good there Thomas!!!
Thank you for getting back to me God bless
Let me know what you end up finding!
Gee you work fast... that's what she said. Amazing how similar a lot of VW/Audi stuff is in terms of hall sensors etc.
It's nice when things are kept similar.
Great diagnosing brother 👍🏻👍🏻Cheers 🍺🍺
Thanks for watching!
Great diagnostics! Thank you!!!
Thank you for watching!
Good video Thomas!
Thank you again.
👍
That was interesting. That test light is just like mine the rubber is too hard now to press the jaws . Part 2
Skilled mechanic
Thank you for watching!
you are the man!
LOL... thank you, but this is simple compared to new stuff that other techs run into (my luck that I get all the old stuff).
My goodness. Your so fast I had to rerun parts of the video to catch up. That's amazing to watch some who's who's been around the same make of vehicle long enough to memorize pins and circuits.
I'm actually waiting for someone to tell me that I'm doing something wrong! Bet there are a lot of things that I have learned or been taught (by the oldtimers) that are NOT the right thing to do. Hasn't gotten me into trouble yet (who let the smoke out) and I hope it won't for quite some time!
very impressive Thomas
Hi when you turn on the ignition on VW T4 EuroVan VR6 can you heard the fuel injector pump
Fuel pump should run for a couple of seconds... you may or may not be able to hear it (depends on how much fuel is in the tank and ambient noise). Put your ear against the bottom of the fuel tank and have someone turn the key ON / OFF. You can also have someone crank the engine with the key (***TRANSMISSION IN PARK OR NEUTRAL***) while you listen for pump noise. If you do not hear any pump noise, tap the bottom of the fuel tank with your hand... the pump could be stuck. Tapping on the bottom of the fuel tank can unstick a stuck pump.
I also get a spark between HT lead and -ve of battery if I ground the center pin.
If you get spark when touching the center pin, but no spark when cranking the engine, then the hall sensor is bad.
Attach a test light across the outer 2 pins. If test light lights up, it's no a power or ground issue t the connector.
Year, make, model, engine?
When did the "no start" start happening. The more I know, the better I can help.
Hey I have an issue, but thanks for your videos. I disconnected the hall sensor plug. Using a 12 bulb I connected to +ve of battery and left side of plug and it lights up. I connected to -ve battery and to right side of plug.....I hear injectors and fuel pump but the bulb does not light. If I connect the volt meter at the same time the voltage drops to almost 0. Any ideas !
You should only hear the inj, fuel pump & spark when touching the center pin of the 3 wire connector.
Check the wiring to make sure that none of the 3 wires are touching each other... peel back the boot at the connector.
Currently experiencing similar issues, drove it 40 mins then died when pulled into camp site, did fuel filter and everything then it wouldn’t even start, put new fuel pump relay in and thought it was good but drove it around, went to start back up pulled out and she wanted to stall right away, more gas would just make her sputter more, pretty much new everything exept map sensor on ecu. Basically narrowed it down to either the MAP on the ecu or the hall sensor. Would the hall sensor cause intermittent staling or does it just quit completely when something goes bad ? In quite a predicament right now
The next time it doesn't start... follow the steps in this video and let me know the results.
It's useful for me now.Thank you.and excuse me, where can I learn setting my t4 2.0 idel speed lower little.
What year is your T4? Is your throttle body motorized with cable or does it just have a cable attached to it? Can you post a video on your channel so that I can see?
@@EXOVCDS Dear Thomas!!This car German made in 1999y at Taiwan,I bought 4 years ago.I know that idel speed controled by computer, and can't reduce gasoline or air input derect.before I try.impossible.till I see you 😀. Today I used your way found my ignition problem very soon.Thank you very much.l can't started several days, Thanks again.God bless you
Hey bud thanks for the great video, i’m stuck in the middle of nowhere. Is there any way to bypass the ignition coil
You need the coil to develop spark... so you can not bypass it.
If the hall sensor inside the distributor is bad... you need a new one.
If the timing belt is broken (reason for no distributor signal)... you need a new one.
@@EXOVCDS thanks, noting like being stranded in a foreign country trying to find parts for a T4. Luckily the paragliding community stepped in and drove 3 hours to bring me a new coil pack and it fired right up. Thanks for your help
Thank you for the update... good to hear you had some help!
Nice one! That thing definitely sounds a little "knockey" at the end too.. Or is that just typical of those?
A little noisy after the initial start (due to the excess fuel)... but they do have a little tick / knock (if you can call it that) in general.
When center pin of hall connector > ground
Injector, fuel pump, spark not working.
Share info sir...
Only ground "briefly / quickly"... how many hall sensor windows inside of your distributor?
vaccum diagram ... Can't find it anywhere
What's the actual issue? Vacuum leaks will mot prevent the engine from starting.
Hello Thomas! Tried this to my caravelle, when i grounded the center pin on the distributor connector, nothing happened. There is ground and positive on those two beside. Either the coil connector ecm pin ground were cutted of. I have checked fuse to enginecontrol and tried to knock the relay 30. Car has been standing still 2..3 years. What do you think i should look next?
Are you in North America? If not, then the engine might have a crankshaft position sensor. If you are in NA, check the coil next. Similar way.
Remove coil from van, place on top of headlight support that's close to battery.
Attach power & ground to outer 2 pins of coil plug (check original connector which of the 2 is the brown / ground side).
Every time the center pin is touched to ground, the coil should spark.
Leave the ignition wire attached to the coil and place the other end close to a clean metal engine part (head).
If spark does not jump, check resistance of coil wire (no more than 2k ohm). If wire is ok. Replace coil.
@@EXOVCDSthanks, i will do this. Located in Finland.
Hi Sir ,this t4 2.5l vw caravelle no spark from the spark plugs. I replaced the coil still no spark not even from the coil .coil connector center pin to to positive with test light and hall sensor center pin briefly with test light from negative theres no response of the light from the coil centrr pin.pls help what might the problem
Is the ECM awake? Can you communicate with the ECM? If not, check the power supply relay.
3rd relay from the left, second row of relays above the fuses. Like in this video: (at 5:32 time stamp)
czcams.com/video/HdedLiPvU-s/video.htmlsi=kpt84qx_brcMJFQK
And this one:
czcams.com/video/7CIw9g3cJgY/video.htmlsi=l-pHvjLsFpBIbycZ
How do you do the back probe got a non runnin 93 EuroV am trying to figure out cranks no start
First determine if you get consistent spark.
Remove the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap and hold it next to the cylinder head. Have someone crank the engine. You should see multiple & consistent spark jumps to the cylinder head.
Yes / No?
If no, first check if the battery & oil light go out while the ignition key is in the crank position (starter spinning).
Yes / No?
If the lights stay on and you DO NOT have spark... leave the key in the ON position, disconnect the 3 wire plug at the top of the distributor body... attach a test light to battery negative clamp... have someone hold the coil wire (from earlier test) close to the cylinder head again and then briefly touch the tip of the test light to the CENTER wire of the disconnected 3 wire harness plug for the distributor.
Each time the test light is touched to the harness plug center wire, a spark should jump from the coil wire to the cylinder head.
Yes / No?
You should also hear the injectos click each time the test light touches the center wire.
Yes / No?
If injectors click, but no spark, then maybe the ignition coil is bad.
If no injectors click, then the ECM or fuel pump relay is bad.
If injectors click & spark is present, then the hall sensor inside the distributor is bad... or the timing belt is broken.
Post a video on your channel so that I can hear the engine cranking.
@@EXOVCDS appreciate it buddy much much thanks will see how it works out and get bck at you
I need this wagon, how much shipping to Nigeria
Sorry, I don't understand.
I have an LED test light that doesn't provide continuity for grounding purposes. If I ground the centre pin of the Hall Sensor connector with a plain wire, should it trigger the fuel pump, injectors & coil as it does for you in this video?
Yes
@@EXOVCDS Thank you! Mine does NOT... I'll start by tracing the hall wire back to the ECU and then try triggering it there.
@@advtechts9247 year, make, model, engine? If your engine has a crankshaft position sensor, then the above test will not work. Engines with crank sensors only have 1 hall window in the distributor. North American 2.5L engines never had crank sensors and have 5 hall windows.
@@EXOVCDS you know your stuff!!! It is an Australian delivered 1999 T4 Transporter with an AET engine. You are correct, it has a crank sensor and the hall sensor has only one window. Vehicle belongs to friend. Was taken to VW specialist were it had IGN Switch, Engine Relay, Fuel Pump Relay, 5 Injectors, Ign Coil, spark plugs, hall sensor, Distributor cap and rotor, crank sensor and a battery. Still won't start. I'm a mechanic but don't know these vehicles, trying to help a friend in my limited spare. Fuel pressure is good. Timing is good. Compression is good. I believe that the spark is too weak, will keep testing.
@@advtechts9247 was this a "no start" all of a sudden, or after some work? Restricted exhaust? If the drive gear for the distributor was installed 180 out, then the ignition rotor will sit 180 out.
hi I was following your intructions and by istake back probed the coil harness middle pin while it was connected to the coil, there was no light on signal at all, then corrected this mistake and did it while the harness off, again no light on, although the coil was firing the spark thr first time I tried the hall sensor. I also tried utting the negattive from the battery to the test light (not sure if this was bad) in any case I never had the test light turn on in order to check if touching the center pkug of the hall sensor harness would collapse the field on the primary wound... The van was starting fine and only at some point in hot days hwy driving it would stall, (what some call the sudden death syndrome) thing is after doing this The van wont start at all. Niow I am even more confused. any pointers would be great.
When you try to start the engine... does the battery light in the instrument cluster go out when the engine is cranking?
I'll check again tomorrow and will let you know
Thanks a lot for the quick response. I got a Ross tech code adapter and vcds reader on my way too. Cheers
@@EXOVCDS The battery light keeps solid during the crancking process, i sent a video link before but I dont thibnk it went thru,
Also i received my ross-tech VCDS tool for this OBD1 system here is a look of what surfaced.
3 Faults Found:
00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation
08-00 - Control Limit Surpassed
00758 - Secondary Air Injection System (AIR)
37-00 - Faulty
00560 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation System
01-00 - Signal Shorted to Plus
Readiness: N/A
weird nothing related to ignition, but i rest asured it was starting before i did the test to coil and hall sender... maybe these do not store fault codes into the ECU? I doubt it tho.
@@EXOVCDS czcams.com/video/H_8VxIG4HPQ/video.html
Hi Thomas , i have problem with my VW T4 caravelle 2.5i, it was driving with empty fuel tank , then car stoped , i fill it up new gasoline , around 15 liters and car won't start anymore ? What happened ? The fuel pump make noise when put on egintion ..
So I have to reply to the same question you asked me on Instagram? Here is my reply...While someone tries to start the engine... tap on the bottom of the fuel tank with your hand. It might help get the pump started, if it is stuck.
I just read your instagram post again... you did not mention that your pump was making noise.
If the pump is working, how much fuel pressure is it putting out?
Post a video on your channel, of you trying to start the engine... so that I can hear & see what is happening.
Thomas you are the best! I have a question, I had a mobile mechanic replace the starter on my 95 Eurovan 2.5 5 cylinder Rialta . Since then it smokes?shorts the alternator . When the alternator is first installed it starts fine then it smokes/shorts the alternator.
Any thoughts for a rookie like myself? Greatly appreciated.
"When the alternator is first installed"... you removed it to check it? Or the alternator was replaced after you noticed the smoking?
The alternator charging cable goes from the alternator to the big post on the starter. Check if the cable end is sitting at an angle / possibly touching the metal part of the starter solenoid.
@@EXOVCDS Thank you Thomas for your advice!
The more info I have the better I can help / guess as to what is happening.
"When the alternator is first installed"... you removed it to check it, because it was smoking? Or the alternator was replaced and then you noticed the smoking? What is the charging voltage? Valve cover gaskets can leak oil... which can drip onto the alternator / get into the alternator. Alternators get warm, which can cause the oil to smoke. Does the smoke smell of oil or is it an electrical type of smell?
@@EXOVCDS Starter went bad . So a mobile mechanic came out to replace the starter. After starter was replaced, started the engine but alternator would not charge battery, then replaced alternator with 120 amps remanufactured alternator from parts store . Right after replacement started engine to make sure it worked prior to putting back the belly pan . The van started right away and alternator was charging battery. Voltage 12.9 but rising slowly. Then turned off engine to put belly pan on and get it off the ramps. After we got it off the ramps, we tried to start it again . It was struggling to start , then pressed on the auxiliary boost button from the cabin battery to give it additional cranking power and it started. Checked the battery terminal and this time only 11.5 volts not charging . Took out alternator thinking I had a bad alternator. Got another one had it bench tested , they told me it passed bench testing , reinstalled same thing happened again , van starts right away after new alternator installation but after I turn off engine and try to start again it struggles and battery voltage drops to 11.5 not charging. So I concluded that I am killing the alternator so far two of them . But this situation started after the starter was replaced . Thanks again !
@@billy1vassiliou So no actual smoke? It was just a figure of speech to say that the alternator got smoked?
Replacing a starter is not rocket science, 3 mounting bolts, 1 starter trigger wire / connector and one connection for the battery + & alternator cable.
Make sure that the cable ends that attach to the starter + post are clean. Then do a "voltage drop check" with the engine at idle. Start the engine, rev to 2500 rpm and then allow the engine to idle... perform the voltage drop test like I did in this video:
(engine in video is a TDI, but the same test is valid on your gasoline engine). Let me know your findings / test results:
czcams.com/video/ieUbfUTwNjQ/video.html
i have a probelm thomas. When turn on the ignition, no sound from fuel pump, and no spark in igniton. No fuse was blown,any solution? Sorry for bad english. :)
Year, make, model, engine? The more I know, the better I can guess. I'm starting work right now, but will get back to you later today / tonight.
@@EXOVCDS 1998 vw t4 caravelle gl gasoline.
Thomas,
Thank you for this video. I'm able to verify my test light pulses while the clamp is on the positive terminal and the probe is stuck in the rear of the center pin on the connector going to the coil. I am able to generate a spark while the engine is turning over and I've verified by letting it arc to the terminal. However, the spark is orange.
The test probe does not dim while I short the center pin of the hall effect harness to ground. It also does not pulse the fuel injectors.
Any ideas what this could mean?
Year & model of vehicle? Which country are you in? Never mind... I just looked at your videos.
It could be ignition coil, but lack of injector pulse would not be due to coil. Spark could be better, but it looks strong enough. Have you tried to spray some brake cleaner into the intake and then check how long it runs for (if at all). I'm thinking your cam / crank timing is out. Check the timing belt for missing teeth. Have someone rotate the engine with a 27mm socket & ratchet on the crank pulley bolt... while you look at the belt / teeth from above.
@@EXOVCDS the coil is new. I figured out I can’t used a multi meter as a test light. When shorting then middle pin to ground I got the test light on the coil to go off and I the injectors to fire. I then came in behind the pins of the Hall effect sensor in order to connect the signal wire and ground to a test light. From there I cranked the vehicle and didn’t get any flashes. I believe this means there is an issue with the Hall effect sensor correct?
@@EXOVCDS will not fire on ether. I posted a few videos of me cranking it. It seems to hit a little bit at first but then goes away.
@@ibosley If you are able to get consistent spark while cranking (without a test light attached) then the hall sensor is OK. The test light could be attached incorrectly if it is not flickering when you are cranking. Turn the engine to TDC and check that the camshaft & crankshaft TDC marks line up at the same time. I have a feeling that the engine is out of time (cam & crank) which is also affecting when your spark is occurring, since the distributor is attached to the camshaft. .
@@EXOVCDS okay I will work on that tomorrow. So you believe based on my videos it is out of time? I had suspected this but dismissed it as me not being familiar with a five cylinder firing order.
To answer your question. I live in Knoxville; it’s in East Tennessee, USA.
Thomas this is amazing explanatory video, great job, I have same problem with my AAC 2.0l engine, any advice how I can check if coil is good, I have replaced the coil but on both (new and 1 month old ) still no start. All spark plugs and coil cables and distributor caps are new. Have no clue, what happened the car start, and drove perfectly fine, and one day I came and it could not start. there is no spark. I will come to you rigth away, but I am based in Berlin, Germany :/ thank you
If your engine has a crank sensor... it could be that it is bad.
We don't have the AAC engine in Canada... I had to Google it to see if the block has a crankshaft sensor. It does not look like it has one. Did you test for power & ground at the hall sensor harness plug? Key ON, does it have power & ground on the outer 2 pins? Remove the hall sensor harness plug. Key ON, briefly touch the center pin of the hall sensor harness plug to ground with a bare paper clip. Each time the paper clip touches ground, does the coil produce a spark? Do you hear the injectors click / fuel pump activation?
Hej Thomas thank you for your replies I did the following: Key ON, briefly touch the center pin of the hall sensor harness plug to ground with a bare paper clip. Each time the paper clip touches ground, does the coil produce a NO spark and i dont hear the injectors click / fuel pump activation.
I check ground and power of the hall plug: there is power and the ground
Also the same ground and power on the coil plug. No spark on old coil or new coil.
How much to fly you to san Antonio lol, my 99 eurovan isn't starting after replacing fuel injectors
So the 2 codes I'm getting are P00BE - Mass or Volume Airflow B circuit range/performance - Air Flow too low...and P0088 - Fuel Rail System Pressure Too High Bank 1 (fuel pressure is prolly just likely to over cranking it and the eurovan not starting, I just replaced all 6 fuel injectors with OEM fuel injectors and now it's in crank, but no start condition)...I'll definitely CashApp you for any help ✌️
What scan tool are you using?
As far as I know... 99 EV VR6 does not have a way of checking fuel pressure, meaning that "fuel rail system pressure too high" does not apply to that engine.
Check if you have spark... if yes, spray some brake parts cleaner into the intake (remove plastic tube from throttle body and spray the throttle body). If the engine starts & runs for a couple seconds, then you know that there is a fuel problem.
With a good scan tool, you can activate the injectors & fuel pump individually to see (listen) if they are working.
Here is a link to most factory VW & Audi fault codes.
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes
95 rialta 2.5l gas automatic, won't start, fuel pressures over 40lbs coils good. when i ground the middle wire on the distributor wiring harness with test light, i do not hear the injectors click, and coil does not fire. I did back test middle wire on coil connector and coil sparked. I noticed the center wires on distributor and coil are not the same color, does the signal wire going to the distributor go to a relay or ecu? Its light green.
When the engine is cranking... is the distributor rotor turning?
@@EXOVCDS yes the rotor is turning, 26k original miles, last trip it died a couple times on the side of the road, would restart after an hour and go another 50 miles, was running when parked. I have changed the fuel pump a couple times which had the same symptoms. New #30 relay, new fuel pump relay, new fuel pump, new fuel filter. another interesting thing I remember the #16 fuse and wire to fuel pump is not hot in run position and does not do 1-3 second prime when turn key to on position, but it is hot in start postion and runs the pump then with pressure test around 44 psi. It will fire on starting fluid. I am glad it finally quit it used to be intermittent problem which is hard to track down. I think something is keeping injectors from firing, I don't know if its ignition switch, hall sensor, or ecm. Thanks for your time
@@moparmikefloy
Fuel pump fuse is #18 (20A)
@@EXOVCDScurrently having a similar issue and narrowing it down to hall sensor or map on ecm, currently intermittent, was doing the start and immediately diying, would press the throttle and it would sputter and stumble, Basically new everything except map sensor lol, it tends to drop below idle sometimes and when i press the gas it just wants to die even more, waited a while and it started back up but got it towed home. Would a bad hall sensor cause intermittent staling when it’s warm?
@Jkidd123 The next time it doesn't start... follow the steps in this video and let me know the results.
Good evening my dear, the reason for this message is to request your support with the electrical diagram of this computer I have a failure with a eurovan 2.5 model 2002, part of the installation burned and I need to repair it but I do not have the diagram, I hope you can help me Thank you.
2.5 gasoline or 2.5 diesel?
Do you have the engine production code? AET, APL, AVT, AJT, ACV, AUF...?
@@EXOVCDS saludos
APL?
Click on the fkh161 link in the description... then click on "tool request" to send me a message. I will then send you the wiring diagram.
1996 vw t4 caravelle 2.5 petrol p1570 won't start
Does it start and then die... or does it just crank & crank & crank?
I am not aware of 1996 Eurovan having an immobilizer. What country are you in / is
the vehicle from?
@@EXOVCDS I'm in Ireland. No attempt to start. Just cranks and nothing. Done your test by grounding centre pin on distributor and I'm getting a spark. Also getting weak key signal fault from immobiliser ecu. Fuel pump is priming
@@liamdevaney7476 have someone crank the engine while you check for spark... if you have spark, check for fuel / pressure / injector pulse. If you have no spark when cranking, check your ignition switch.
@@EXOVCDS Took cowling off around steering wheel. Pick up for key goes into the back of dash clocks
@@liamdevaney7476 Usually a problem with the key / immobilizer will result in a start (runs for a couple of seconds) and then a stall situation. To check if the antenna is "searching for a chip signal" , I use an Induction Signal Detection Card. Position around key cylinder and then turn the key to the ON position. LED should light up. If yes, the possible issue with key... but again, normally the engine should still start then die. If LED does not light up, then there may be a problem with the coil / antenna or the immobilizer itself. Send me some pictures of your setup / dash (key ON pictures of dash lights or post a video on your channel so I can see).
www.amazon.com/Automotive-Induction-Signal-Detection-Diagnostic/dp/B01LX1DRW3
good trouble shooting
Thanks... I usually just plug a used coil in and see what happens, but this step by step makes a better video. :)