Modding an Ender 3 S1 With The Modder Board
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- čas přidán 13. 10. 2022
- The Ender 3 Upgrade that lets you Upgrade Your Ender 3.
www.nathansellsrobots.com/
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RIP mr clicky o7
He literally exploded in someone's face at ERRF. Fortunately noone was hurt. We will rebuild him, stronger than before.
Just got mine today. To say I am excited will be an understatement.
This will greatly improve my cabling mess! I have been running my machines with home made quick connections for easy swaps and now this will make it elegant as well! Thanks. Just got 4 !!
Thank you Wilbert, you're my favorite customer!
Next version (that is hopefully shipping in late November) will have some nice improvements.
Thank you for doing all of this! I installed my board tonight and look forward to getting better prints with my new part cooling.
I have uploaded all of the files on Patreon. Most of the files are free public files.
f3d files are available for Patrons if you want to edit them in Fusion 360.
www.patreon.com/posts/simplified-fan-67965448?Link&
I have to design a new 5015 duct for the occasion. My first ones were functional, but not as optimized as I would like.
So i am done ins talling the board....AWESOME..so simple, so nice to be able to upgrade my fans...ty Nathan!! you should open a forum so people can share what they have done with your stuff. Minew is nothing great but I am super proud of it...Thanks again...loved the experience.
Thanks Derek, spread the word!
I have a discord, that is a great place to post stuff (its in the video description)
I LOVE IT CANT WAIT TO GET IT
Just received mine today. Awesome product!
🇬🇧 Your lucky I had mine cancelled.
I apologize Fred. When I realized there were a couple of things I needed to change for international regulations I figured the best thing to do was to refund orders until I have a definite shipping date.
The good news is that my first lead-free boards should be here in about 2 weeks. I will send out an email to all people that had their orders cancelled to get dibs on the first batch.
Thanks for your support!
Ordered mine today, can't wait to get it.
Really big thank you, Nathan, for doing this.
Honestly, I'm starting to hate this printer by the day, as I've noticed, I'm not the only one with bed adhesion issues. I was about to buy from Gulcoast robotics whole Y axis assembly with their carriage and heated bed, but international shipping price made me think otherwise, lol. 😅
Really, thank you and greetings from Latvia.
Just ordered 😎👍🏽
Just ordered my board today.. Looking forward to upgrading my S1 Plus with the new board as well as new fans.
Nice!
Just installed mine on my S1 plus, however it doesnt have anything to trigger the x Endstop. What was your fix for this?
Anyone make a cable strain relief that will work with the breakout board ?
Just got mine today :D
Thank you for the great explanation and use. 📶💪🇺🇸😎
Just ordered mine
Nice, if you head over to the discord you can get some tips on installation and ideas for upgrades
@@NathanBuildsRobots ill be using mynfactory fan untill i figure out an upgrade
Where is the print file for the main ribbon cable support?
Just ordered one and can't seem to find that STL.
This is awesome! Got to fix the shipping to Australia though - $37-$138 for the shipping alone!
Just got mine in the mail, along with some noctua fans - on the hotend with the 12v fan you showed, is there a buck converter in that wire bundle, or are you using a zenner diode?
I wired up a 2 watt 220 ohm resistor in series. I just cut out a segment of wire and replace it with a resistor.
12v fans are a pain, and I was hoping to find a suitable 24v replacement, but nobody does quiet fans quite like Noctua.
I’ve been using your original part and hot end mount that I’ve loved. Where can I find the STL to your new model that removed the hot end fan and added that delta fan?
I have uploaded all of the files on Patreon. Most of the files are free public files.
f3d files are available for Patrons if you want to edit them in Fusion 360.
www.patreon.com/posts/simplified-fan-67965448?Link&
Where can I find the stl for the part cooling mod you're using in this video?
If running two 12v fans for part cooling via the two new headers, do you still need to the drop the 24v down? (as you've done with the inline resister?)
Yes, you can run 2 12v fans in series on a 24v pin.
If you are placing a new order, you'll get the new board, which has a spot for a current limiting resistor built into the hotend heatsink fan connector.
Hi, will this board adapt a voron Stealthburner to a Ender 3? Thanks.
If I use this can I have dual extruder on my ender 3 S1? Also do you know if I can put a Bowden extruder on ender 3 S1?
what controls the hot end temperature the modderboard or the s1pro motherboard?
Could you use this to use a voron toolhead onto an ender 3 s1 pro
Waiting for EU launch. Hope you can also do a mod for mainboard also. Compared to old enders, S1 connectors dont seem to be compatible with 3rd party boards.
Yes. The mainboard situation is truly scuffed.
You can actually install the modder board in the base of the printer, then run a traditional harness out to the hotend.
I recently installed this and now my part cooling fans do not turn off. I switched back to the stock one to test it and the stock fan also stays on constantly. Something changed after I installed the modder board because it did not do this before. Anyone else have this issue and know how to fix it?
What connector do i need to make the ABL connection.
Do you have any directions/videos on the micro swiss build?
No, sorry I do not. It’s not too difficult though
Do you have an upgrade for the Printable Accessories? The flat cable is flopping around
Look up “modder board” on printables. Some printable cable guides should pop up
Does the voltage change for the new fan connections?
You should tackle a CAN tool board. Really only 2 choices out there, BIQU or HVUD. Having 4 wires for a toolhead is so clean.
I have the biqu one to test. Only thing I don’t like about it is 2 McUs makes it potentially 2X as expensive to troubleshoot and fix. With my current setup, the modder board is bulletproof and the Mainboard is the only thing that ever needs to be replaced.
But year, CAN definitely is the cleanest/most capable of all setups and I’d love to tackle that when I have the time.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I'm going to try the BIQU 36 once I print out 2 sherpas and get them built. Having an IDEX there is a ton of wires I'd love to get rid of. Another plus with the BIQU is you can get the model with PT100/1000 support. I have an Octpus but cheaped out and didn't nuy the Pro so no PT100 support.
@Nathan Just curious why you went with a straight up pin header for the main connection instead of the locking/ejector box. It would not only be more secure but since they're keyed would eliminate the possibility if connecting backwards...
I couldn't find a source for them. I spent days combing the internet, aliexpress, Amazon, Digikey and Google, spent hundreds buying a bunch of different connectors, and the only thing that fit was the 2mm pitch pin header.
However, a few weeks ago I finally found the right connectors and the next version of the board will have them. So of my current preorders and any new orders from now on will use the same style used by Creality on the original board, so box and locking arms. I tested the first prototype board this week and it was a perfect fit, so big batch is coming and will be all good, with some bonus features I stuck on there.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Awesome news! Thanks for the update!
Can I use a voron hot end extruder with this
My board looks different than the board in this video. Do I have to use the resistor on the board I received?
You can solder that board in place to activate HF2 port. That will allow you to plug in a 12v 40mm nocturnal fan, which is a common modification that people do to run silently
Neat idea, I would just make adapter plugs myself or preferably make a full harness from the main board with thicker guage wires for 24v; this is certainly a simple solution for people with less time and finesse.
Seen your response RE: sourcing the locking adapter, you could add a notch to your locking bracket and design to fit only one direction maybe?
Love your work, please take this constructively and keep innovating 💙
@Russell Phelan that was an option I mentioned, I would prefer a thicker wire guage when upgrading to 24v in saying so I haven't done the calculations so the existing wires might make the cut
@Russell Phelan oh hang on I see now I said adapter plug, I like the idea of breaking out don't get me wrong. I meant that the breakout was less finesse. For myself I could have this running with what I have on hand making an adapter quicker and just as easily. The breakout is neat and simple for people without the tools and parts
I ordered mine last Sunday but still haven't received a shipping confirmation or date what's up?
Do you have an order # ? I don’t think your order went through. Shopify sends email confirmation as soon as the order is placed.
What type and length of ribbon cable is used on the original and modded board?
The 24 pin ribbon cable is the same either way. The spare cables I have bought are about 150cm long
What mods do you have done to the fully built modder board using all the ports?
I'm using every port except for the 2nd part cooling fan on the microswiss NG build. I am thinking about designing another batch of fan ducts that are more optimized and with dual fan options
hi the printerbal support wont fit the new bored have you got a new updated one ?
It doesn’t need a support since the new clip retains the cable. If you want something to support the cable you can find one on printables, just look up Nbr modder board on printables
hi. my heatbed is undervoltaged ( around 3-5V ) when it needs to be 24V. So it doesnt heatsup. I bought a external mosfet but since it needs to get control signal from that green socket too.. It doesnt work.. So i tried to trace on pcb with multimeter but couldnt find where actually signal comes from, which component etc. Any idea for what can i do to get a signal to my mosfet? Thank you.
I would join the discord and post aout it there, would be easier to help you. But the Mosfet is a large square with 3 wires coming off of it, its hard to miss! The qustion is, is the MOSFET bad, or is the signal leading to the MOSFET bad?
@@NathanBuildsRobots Ah thanks! mosfet has current but only 3V. So where should i check for signal? Ribbon cable from screen?
Wanna order one but my country (Chile) is not listed :(
Can't wait until you ship to Canada.
Soon!
@@NathanBuildsRobots You are doing the Lord's work.
Would this board make it any easier for me to use the E3D hot swappable nozzle system with my Ender 3 s1 pro?
In conclusion, I now have the modder board which has been incredibly useful for me making upgrades to my cooling system etc. But E3D have now released a nozzle which is compatible with the stock sprite extruder anyway which I'm also now using. All in all very happy with this board. 🥳
Would you be able to use one of the extra connectors for the fans for an led light?
Yes, I've thought about doing that. I put one on one of the extra heater ports and it kept flashing on and off. But on one of the fan ports it would do wonders. Just make sure it doesn't draw too much current and that the voltage is correct.
@@NathanBuildsRobots perfect guess I know what my next purchase is!
Just received mine in England great service but I can't find anywhere to download the stl files shown in video for the ribbon.can anyone help thx
Try the discord, we’ll be able to answer questions faster and people may have better solutions than the ones I made. These are the first models I made for it:
www.patreon.com/posts/73279312?
Also, sorry about the postal service strikes in your country. Everyone’s orders made it that I know of, but it took a while!
Hello there Master of Mod Boards and Fans of Silence.
I placed an order last week for one of your S1 Mod Boards and was wondering when this maybe sent out? Nick
Tracking shows it is in London now. You should have got an email with tracking information, if you didn't get one, send me an email and I will get that to your.
Hey nathan i dont know if you will see this but I accidentally bought a 3 pin noctua is there anything I can do or just order the 2 pin and wait?
3-pin is actually really good, you will just have to splice it or install as shown in my other video.
czcams.com/video/yiKxLbfClMg/video.htmlm28s
You can see it's kind of wedged on there with the connector taken off.
Awesome ty for helping so fast!!!
Please if possible start shipping these boards to europe i realt need one for my s1.
Plus 1
I will start accepting international pre-orders when I have my lead-free suppliers set up. I think it will be about 3 weeks before I can start shipping orders. I will be making another announcement video for that, so make sure to TuRn On NoTiFiCaTioNs aNd RiNg ThE BelLllll!!!
@@NathanBuildsRobots i will thank you
Don't you think the pair of tiny gauge wires in the ribbon cable are marginal for the current draw of the heater? Especially how long the ribbon cable is....
I need to see how things are wired on the motherboard side of things to verify, but on the breakout board side it looks like the heater cartridge is hooked up to 4 wires for + and 4 wires for -
@@NathanBuildsRobots I bought the Sprite pro conversion for my V2 and they breakout all the ribbon wires to compatible JST connectrs for the 4.2.2 & 4.2.7 motherboards. I was surprised that it only used 2 wires for each leg of the heater. I didn't measure the voltage drop but I suspect it's high. Anyway it does work but I noticed the PID even optimized is more unstable than my original V2 extruder. I'm assuming it's the same on the S1.....
Like your Mod board idea!
@@bobwtech I just did the Sprite conversion on an Ender 2 Pro. That conversion cable is seriously messed up. Especially the 2 unlabeled connectors that are basically motherboard wrecking devices. I point out some really dangerous elements on it. Video should be up in a couple of days.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Well, where is that video? I just did an sprite pro upgrade on my V2. how is it different than a S1 wire harness?
im getting your board BTW. It will work on my rig, correct? E3v2 with sprite pro.
Would love to get ure Break Out Board but the shipment with ups is way too expensive
What region are you located in? I'm talking to some distributors and it would be got to know
@@NathanBuildsRobots i'm located in Germany , Bavaria
same problem here (UK) which stopped me from buying one
also UPS SUCKS outside of the US. Used to live in Canada and had nothing but problems with them
Your prices are in CAD. You reside in Canada?
It converts based on your detected region. I’m in the US, shipping to Canada is a bit crazy dispute being so close.
I look forward to when you make your own 3d printer Nathan
I want to, going to work my way up to it! I've got some great ideas for thermal management and modular construction that I have not seen in the market yet.
Apologies if I’m ill informed, but what does this mod do?
It's a replacement for the stock extruder pcb to make modding easier. With it you can add/switch fans etc easy.
I wanted to order 2 boards, but you do not ship to Canada 😢
I should have my first lead-free boards in 2 weeks, then I can start filling international orders. I'll post another announcement video when they are ready!
Are you planning an international shipping?
Will be making an international edition next, should be up for sale soon
this MODDING board, can we buy if we live outside US? Indonesia for example.
I'm working on the next batch of production. Shipping to Indonesia will be tough, but I'll look at my options.
@@NathanBuildsRobots count me in on next batch, with option shipping outside US (Indonesia). i am really wants to have this.
It doesn't ship to Canada rip
I have a solution coming!
Is the modder board compatible with sprite extruder pro
Yup, should be
@@NathanBuildsRobots okay i may get one for my birthday
@@NathanBuildsRobots btw im talking about creality sprite extruder pro so if im right the cable would be compatible
Any way to plug in a hot end led?
I’m working on that. The easiest way is to plug it into the hotend fan port and make sure you’re using an led that can run at 24V or use the appropriate current limiting resistor to limit the current
@@NathanBuildsRobots perfect thanks
Sample calculation time:
Get an LED that runs on 40 mA and 4V
Solve the equation: V=IR
(24-4)=(0.040)*R
R=20/0.040
R=500
So you would solder a 500 ohm resistor into the spot for a resistor, then plug the LED into the HF2 port (which connects uses that resistor in series to limit the current to that port)
When you run the printer, the LED will light up whenever your part cooling fan is running (pretty much whenever the hotend is on)
I would reccomend joining the discord, people like myself can help you through the process of selecting components and wiring it up
Just got mine, top fan ports not working
The most common issue is the fans being wired up reverse to how they are on the board.
Check the back of the board: the + and - pins are labeled.
Also feel free to ask for help on Discord - Lots of people online to help
@@NathanBuildsRobots I've got 3 different fans all wired same, none work out of the box. Is it you or them?
Still dont know what is the benefit of this ?
Just makes it easier to plug in aftermarket fans, extruders, and hot ends.
Basically a board for people who like to mod their printers. No need to get this unless you are planning on doing other upgrades on top of it.
fyi those 3M plastic solderless crimp connectors SUUUUUUUCK
half of them don't hold well and they also use some sort of dielectric grease which comes out onto the exposed cable housing
please please please don't use these anymore
lol sorry . I have been having good luck with them. I had a few pull out at first, but I started giving them a little extra squeeze after they bottom out and they have been holding well. There are also WAGO inline connectors, I'll buy some and see how those work.
Ever going to lower the price?
I just received the V2 board to put on my S1 Pro. Unfortunately, it doesn't fit. the new location for the picoblade connector for the stock parts fan hits the bolt that holds on one of the wheels on the x axis. Should I just remove that connector as I have a 5015 fan for part cooling.
Interesting!
Yeah that is fine if you don't plan on using that port. Are you going to desolder it? That would give you the best results. Just pulling it off is hit or miss as it can peel some of the traces back when you pull it off.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks for the reply. Yes I will try to desolder it.