Why Are my Scooter Batteries Not Working with my Bluetti?
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- Scooter Batteries - jag35.com/coll...
Battery Dongle - jag35.com/prod...
Bluetti AC200P - jag35.com/prod...
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FAQ:
1) Where can learn more about batteries? j35.us/DIYlithi...
2) Where can I buy Lithium Batteriesjag35.com/coll...
4) Where Can I buy Solar Panels? Flexible - j35.us/136wFlex...
Glass - j35.us/100w-100...
5) Where can I buy a Battery Management System? kit.co/jehu/ba...
6) What parts do you use on your Samba? kit.co/jehu/th...
7) Why not use Supercapacitors?
A. Batteries work better at this time, caps are rare and expensive devices that are very good at doing things not needed for storage systems typically.
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here is the small connector if anyone is interested www.mutuallc.com/Z409F-4-pin-Battery-connector-pd40602085.html
@jehugarcia I believe I found them at motoworks which may be part of mutuallc. They are expensive $50 motowoks.com/search?type=product&q=charger. I requested the XT60 plug be installed in place of the female end. They request you email them with the length and type after your order is confirmed. Thanks Jehu for your follow up! Oh Ya Free shipping and they use paypal!
50 for how many?
@@jehugarcia For 1. LOL Expensive
@@paulthompson4618 Thanks for the link, I'll have to order one up.
Just a heads up I’m working to order 50 male end plugs for these batteries, I hope to offer them up for sale at around 10 dollars each. I’ll post more information here once I’ve got the cable ends in my possession. They are coming from China so it may be a month or longer before I have them.
I'm sure others have made the comment already about the connectors when you were trying to bridge both negatives. The pic you put up at min 4:31, (the longer cable on the right) the negative is on the right. Found out when I used volt meter, bridged the negatives and brought them back from 20v to 42v. Everything is working now. Thank you again for your awesome videos!!!
Still the Best Electrical teacher I ever Met. My instructors while I was Enlisted weren't as Knowledgeable.
@jehugarcia I purchased 8 battery packs, 6 out of the 8 were in sleep mode. I charged each battery then used a 18-20awg negative to negative connection. Biggest problem I had was dealing with thin wire and my tremors. If a noob mid 60's guy can follow Jehu's instructions you younger guys have no excuse. People you can always verify polarity with a multi-meter as you should always check when dealing with equipment the first time. Thank you Jeru this was so easy I cancelled my order for the $50 cable. Appreciate the work you put into this project and the very fair pricing. I am now ready for the Florida Hurricane Season....at least for my power needs!
Thanks so much, Jehu! I got both cables and tried connecting negative pins and, like yours, it didn’t bring it out of hibernation. I the applied 4vDC to the charging connector and, violá, it woke up instantly! Outstanding.
Seems to be staying awake now but I’m unsure of its SOC. Open circuit voltage is 40.7 v so I think they’re near full charge.
I got 20 of these batteries to make a portable solar generator. I used one of the arduino activators at 3.3v using dv-dc buck converter in parallel for all 20 battery blue wires. Was having major trouble keeping batteries on. They would randomly completely shut off and kick back on after 10-200 seconds after applying loads of 20+ amps. Jumpered discharge and charge negatives thinking it was hibernation mode, didnt help much. Found out that the activator couldnt handle 20 batteries. Added 2nd arduino activator, one per 10 battery packs and removed jumper between battery charge/discharge negatives, no more issues. Just wanted to put that out there.
I had to jump the arduino up to the standard 5v so that my output voltage was around 3.3v to all of the packs.
Thanks to Jehu and all the contributors. I bought 4 x NCR18650BD scooter batteries last July and a Jag35 4x Dongle, and everything has worked fine, until recently, where I left the batteries charged but unused for a month and I can no longer wake them using either of the methods described in Jehu's video. No red "charging" LED shows on any of my chargers when connected to either of the two NCR18650BD battery ports, has anyone seen anything like this? Thanks again.
Dude, that 6 pack custom board sounds amazing! Considered adding pins or mounting for options like a 12v-36v cigarette port style USB, and a voltage meter, even if you don’t include the hardware having the board design where folks can mod in extra features if/when they want , will be awesome
Thank you for the scooter batteries! Mine work amazing with your dongle..yeah that sounds gross lol. Ordering a couple more for my ev motorcycle next!
That DIY one should be interesting. The AC inverter is always the fun part and takes most of the space except the batteries.
Thank you, Brian and Jehu!
Any time!
Thanks!! you saved my TUG project.
I have purchased these scooter batteries and dongles from you and I am very pleased. The only problem I'm having is when I go to bed at night with a set of batteries charging my bluetti when I get up the next morning the scooter batteries are discharged and have went to sleep again. I have to wake them again. I thought once I woke them they would stay awake.
Question: Would anything be damaged if i splice the positive to positive and negative to negative leads of both cables together so that when I charge the units they automatically wake up?
They will go back to sleep to save the cells in the pack when the voltage hits the set limit. I would not suggest splicing the output and input cables together as the input is only rated for 5 amps if I recall and the output is rated for 25 amps. Could cause a fire if you charge at over 5 amps per pack on that input plug.
Bluetti is in a catagory all on its own. If detects other technology it shuts itself down. It prefers to acknowledge its own skimatics.
I learned from Hobotech found here on CZcams.
HOPE THIS HELPS YOU.,
I dig the videos. You da man, 'hu. But, what you fail to disclose is the lousy customer support at Bluetti. And, they are not the most honest and forthright. I've tried to reach them at their Vegas office by phone for at least 4 weeks now, the phone rings but no one ever answers. So, I finally get Freya to answer my email and she says, "Sorry our phones have been busy. That's why you're getting the busy signal". I emailed Freya back saying, "I didn't say I was getting a busy signal, I said the phone rings but NO ONE ANSWERS THE PHONE". I call that less than (let's say) forthright. Bluetti is awful to deal with. Consider things like this before you purchase anything from them. Spread the word.
If I needed to connect to the little connector just to wake up the battery pack I would use small alligator clips or test clips.
That seems like a great idea! But I used the negative to negative bridge with a 18-20awg wire it worked perfectly. Just verify your negative connections with a multi-meter, look it up if you don't know how to check, it is very simple. 6 out of eight batteries were in sleep mode. All are working after they were charged then using N - N bridge had them all working in a very short time.
I got mine to work but used the pin on the left with the notch facing down on both. Opposite of the drawing online.
@@johngalo8388 Thank you for this important confirmation - the negative pin sockets on both connectors are on the left if you face the female connectors attached to the batteries with the socket notch pointing down. Indeed of the 4 scooter batteries I purchased from Jag35 only one was awake. Was able to wakeup another one by connecting the negative pins (as you say opposite of what Jag35's sketch diagram shows !!!!!) using an electronics 1/4amp fuse with solid wired leads (kind that are directly soldered to PCBs) plugged in carefully to the female socket pins on the small and larger connectors.
I appreciate Jag35's DIY and entrepreneurial spirit, but getting the details concerning high current battery terminal pins right is VERY, VERY, IMPORTANT. He is hurting DIY by getting this stuff potentially dangerously wrong an inviting legal problems too. No one wants to see that.
Using the "negative-to-negative" wakeup technique did NOT work for my remaining two of four scooter batteries. Soldering together my own molex male pin connector to apply a charge voltage to the two pin sockets of the smaller battery female connector. Will try and report back if this works in my case.
Again - thanks for your post about Jag35's mistaken connector wiring info.
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UPDATE - 2021-09-11
I am pleased to report success in waking up my four original Jag35 ordered scooter batteries and an additional four purchased 10 days ago. The process to wake them is sort-of hit and miss though.
Making sure to briefly and correctly(!!!) connect (as described above in my original post) negative to negative socket pins on the large and small battery circular connectors for me had a 50% success rate, while VERY CAREFULLY charging between 3 mins to 10 mins with a 2 amp battery charger thru the small circular connector using the negative pin (left side with notch pointing down) and positive pin (right side with connector notch pointing down) was more often able to wake them enough to switch over (removing the wires charging thru the small connector) and use Jag35's Arduino dongle and charge the battery thru it's larger circular connector attached to the dongle. It was a trial and error process, but this is my best recollection regarding waking up the scooter batteries and confirming measurements with my trusty Fluke DVM.
Grateful if any forum members with knowledge of the internal design of these scooter batteries would help the rest of us understand how these scooter batteries interact with the outside world, their best practices handling, charging/discharging recommendations .... etc.
I repurposed 3 auto headlights wired in series: 140 watt resistance test load, I had used a few years earlier with my father's help to explore optimum solar panel orientation in a mixed and diffuse light environment (placed the dummy 140w load on the solar panel so we could plot power efficiency as a voltage/current against a fixed resistance load). For the scooter batteries my 140 watt load drew down the charge on the batteries to a safer level: 35vdc to 38vdc(?) for storage, after taking them up to max 42 volts with my 4A charger. This also confirmed each battery's ability to maintain a 3.8A load for a reasonable period of time. Each battery did pretty well, taking quite a while to travel from 42vdc --> 37vdc.
My wife and I have been fortunate to own an all electric Nissan LEAF EV since they first appeared in 2011. That experience has made me proactive regarding LifePO4 battery charge storage levels after discussing battery chemistry with a friend who worked as a senior design engineer at Tektronix and also a LEAF owner. We endeavored to keep the batteries below 70% charge if the car was going to sit for more than a day or two. Wondering if these scooter batteries benefit from storage below 80% charge ? Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks Again for another great video !! I used the charge to the small port method for all my batteries 🔋, after you quick email reply a month ago.
Thanks for your videos. I know u r busy, but still excited/waiting on that DIY Bluetti clone build. I’m ready to buy and build. Just waiting for the video.
I’m so close , almost ready to publish
If anyone finds a charger with the 2 pin connector or the 2 pin connector it’s self please post it to the comments. Thank you!!
Found this but can’t find anywhere that has one listed for sale yet. www.mutuallc.com/Z409F-4-pin-Battery-connector-pd40602085.html
When I first got my 2 batteries I charged them fully through the load end of the batteries and couldn't figure out how to wake them. Then I started using a test light (12v to 70v DC led light) going between the small charge cable and larger load cable and the light lit up like a Christmas tree. Ever since then the batteries have been awake. I personally think it's safer for the batteries and BMS inside to use a test light versus trying to jumper wires and accidentally burning something up.
But is it possible to post a site or location to purchase the smaller cable? I think some of us would like the option of using it as the intended charging port.
www.mutuallc.com/Z409F-4-pin-Battery-connector-pd40602085.html
Do you have a link to what you used?
Why not just charge it up from the smaller 2 wire port? It will also wake the battery, no?
Yes, you can do that
You’ll still need to provide the digital signal at short intervals to the tiny blue wire of the larger cable to extract power from it...
Perhaps you as the seller should ensure that the battery(s) is charged and the bms turned on before shipping?
I can do that, of course I will have to pay someone to go tru thousands of batteries and I will have to raise the price to cover the labor.
Hey Panman I would gladly charge you to wake your battery up noo problem...
@@christopherbetancourt6105
Why thank you. :)
Exactly what I thought... So raise the price a few dollars to do the job right!
@@tcb1012 Some day perhaps I'll agree to cater to non diy customers, but for now, you gotta do some work if you wanna use my products. those are the rules.
I don't see why connecting two negative wires to each other would switch a battery BMS on, as the circuit has not been made it wouldn't really do anything you would still have an open circuit.
But by connecting in the charger on that cable would allow a reverse charge on the circuit to open the switch inside the battery, ie a relay or electronic switch, which would the let the battery function again.
Probably why they removed the batteries from the scooters in the first place.
But the cells are probably almost new.
If you saw the circuit it would make sense why it works, but not clear why it only works on some while not in others
I was able to wake up the 4 batteries, no problem. My question is as I'm charging the ac200p in put watts start at 480 or so then reduce down, almost like a count down to 130. If I unplug the packs and replug them in it starts over. Anyone know why or if this is normal. The ac200 was at 57% charge.
its the MPPT solar charger, it scans to try to find the Max Power Point, its normal, if you need to charge faster try this czcams.com/video/FeJ4o8aEdsU/video.html
@Jehugarcia ... correct me if I'm wrong. But given the scooter battery is 36V 10s4p, a 100% fully charge battery would give you 42V. But when depleting the scooter battery down to like 40% of the battery, the voltage drops down to 34.8V. The Bluetti solar input requires at least 35V or it doesn't work(?). Meaning that you would only be able to get about 60% of the the scooter battery before the scooter battery would stop charging the Bluetti and that's given you are topping the scooter battery at 100%. So instead of getting 460W out of the scooter battery to recharge, you are realistically getting less than 276W per battery.
You are mixing watts (instant power) when you want to ask about the usable watt-hours wH. Otherwise it’s an interesting question, can’t you just look up the Blueiti spec sheet to see the min/max input voltage?
You can use two packs at 72v via the solar input for 100%’of the scooter packs BMS guarded capacity and still be in the Blueitti usable input range.
Jim... The solar input requires 35v - 150. Max 700W, max 12A.
czcams.com/video/sD6q-5oAOe8/video.html
In his first video around the 5:20 mark, he adds the 2nd battery to the dongle but it gives roughly the same output of 420W and then he goes into saying that it was due to the limitation of voltage and that it would be complicated to increase the voltage. So you can't just use the dongle and get 72V out of it.
But if he could show us the more complex way to do it to achieve this, I would love to see it, bc I would be more incline to buy the battery packs for this purpose. Otherwise, I think you're still only going to get like 60% of the battery before the bluetti solar input limitation kicks in.
@@cheekysidekick7365 sometimes they round it, but it’s not complicated to make these 72v , just hook + to - on the pair, and use the + on one pack and the - on the other. The watts is load, it wouldn’t change just because you went parallel... the amps drops in 1/2 at 2x the voltage for the power in whatever watts
@@olemissjim so...you are saying I'm going to have to splice the proprietary cable on each one so that I can wire it as you describe and then reattach the leads to the cut proprietary cable so that it can attach to the dongle?
But are any issues with the dongle sending the right signal back to the battery packs in this configuration.
Like I said before, I would love to see him make a video of him doing this at a higher voltage using multiple battery packs and drawing the max output out.
can you give us the link or part number for the small connector you had to jump start the battery
Sorry I don’t have the details , I’ll post it if I come across it
Using a nickel battery charger like an RC car charger will help wake up lithium batteries but only for a few seconds to boost up voltage to the appropriate charging level.
Hi Jehu love your work! i have an AC200P and want to expand the battery storage to around 7000wh, ideally with your external battery packs or even the new 280ah 3.2v cells in 48v configuration you have been taking of. My question is can i plug in one of your 36/48v battery packs into the solar input of the AC200p and still charge the external battery pack with an external MPPT controller? will the AC200Ps built in charge controller have trouble with an external charge controller plugged into the external/expansion battery pack? ideally i want to charge and use it all at the same time....cheers
waiting on this pub to connect a bunch of batts in my case
Hi, i just received my battery (and dongle).... Regarding bridging the negative pins on the small and large connector. But the image on the jag35 (page where i bought battery) shows different negative terminals than the image in the video! website says both negative on small connector and large is on the right side (notch facing up) while in the video you show an image that says large connector has negative terminal on the left... Please verify which one is it, i think ill play it safe and jump through the dongle since that is clearly labeled, but would like to know which is the negative terminal on the large connectors! Also is it the same charging the battery through either large or small port (are they internally connected in parallel?)? ALSO at some point you used the 18A charger to charge the battery through the dongle connected to the large port, will that way work with the 2A charger as well? Lastly are you going to be stocking more of the large connector on jag35.com... Thanks!
Thank you for your first-peek review. I’m commenting here in hopes to win the Blueetti AC200/P that you mentioned in on your DIY Powerwalls group. I’m buying stuff from you! ... starting with scooter batteries that will power a smaller sogen and hopefully this AC200P! Looking forward to your upcoming video with 6 scooter batteries in a rolling case! ❤ ❤ ❤
Love the videos, Jehu! When will you be getting some more battery connectors?
I just tested one of my packs and the polarity of the larger connector is the reverse of what your sketch at 4:50 indicates.
You mean 4:35? follow that sketch
@@jehugarcia Either one. The polarity indicated is for the male connector but is labeled on the the female connector. They're mirrored - on the female side negative is on the right and positive is on the left, just like the smaller connector.
Clarifying edit: the data connection labels are correct, but the power connections aren't.
Is it possible to buy battery and pick up .. I drive by there every day no need to pay for shipping ???
Yes
If you use the small connector to charge, the BMS will shut down Above 7Amps charge Current
Correct
@@jehugarcia is the "small charger" a Li charger or is it a DC power brick? I have been wondering this as I watch your videos and I see constant charging via the output cable without balance ports connected. I figured the BMS was managing the balancing and therefore pulling the current it needs from a DC power brick for charging, but I am starting to think I am mistaken. I guess I am having a hard time understanding where the charge rate is being controlled at the BMS or at the input charger/power brick.
@@moralesmike the charge rate is always controlled by the charger, the BMS is a smart switch that is normally on if a certain amount of checkpoints are met, it turn off if they are not.
Would there be a way to allow my DeWalt batteries to work for this in an emergency situation
Any reason you charge them through the discharge lead and not the charge one?
Thanks for the batteries! I just got Segway 30 cell pack from you guys and I’m using it for my 36v 750 watt ebikeling kit! It’s awesome, but the system cuts out after using throttle for like 20 seconds. I can turn the system back on but it’ll shut down again. Do you have any tips or ideas on what I could be doing wrong? Thanks in advance! (I clicked the little button on the battery and charged it for several hours before using it)
qualified electrician and electrical engineer with over a decade of experience here, I don't know why this man is instructing anyone to "jump" the pins to wake up the BMS with a incorrect pinout diagram shown drawn on paper then decides to try it just for it not to work and then say "sometimes it work with some batteries" yeah im just gonna go ahead and inform you all that positive on the big connector is on the left pin and the negative is on the right hence why he couldn't wake the BMS since he was bridging negative on the small connector to the positive on the big connector instead of negative to negative. but skip all that and just grab a multi meter and check for your self to always be safe and don't bother with the small connector at all in terms of charging since all that needs to be done to charge is using a 2 amp charger on the big connector with right polarity and the charger will do the rest and the cells will charge to the correct voltage and with a nice full charge all the cells will balance out just fine anyway. After that just chuck a arduino on the correct pins to talk to the bms and it'll stay on safely just fine if you program it right since its only always gonna do exactly what you programmed it to do as apposed to using one of those dodgy battery activator chips that can fail and fry.
I purchased one of your 26" e-bike wheels, planning on building my own. Any recommendations on where to get the wire harness controller. Or just wait if you're making a video on it?
You need any BLDC controller. Get it online as cheap as 20$ and up.
this one? amzn.to/3rF12Dn
That´s an old problem of "modern" Chargers. They don´t accept low voltage to start. i wake them up with a normal PB-Charger without intelligence ;-).
i am a german Tesla "Air Ranger". So, i have to fix a couple of problems my ways :-)
Is there any way I can get this battery to work in my Xiaomi scooter using the same bms, maybe flashng the bms??
Sign me up for Beta testing on your new project!! I have the perfect Overlanding trailer that it would work for!!!!
I need help if I connect 2 volt 500ah 6 batteries in series what's their power 3000ah or 500ah?
Series or parallel?
@@NicholasLittlejohn in series like if we connect 2 volt 6 cells it's become 12 volts so their also increase power from 500ah into 3000ah?
Would anyone know how to contact Mr. Garcia to order powerwalls?
I don’t sell powerwalls, only Diy products
@@jehugarcia Thank you. I appreciate the reply. Will order. 💯👍🏼
you should review the Titan Solar generator.
Is any good 36v inverters are avalable?
I wanna buy 1 of Your projects. How can I order 1?
Can you charge the scooter batteries via solar as well
Yes, you’ll need a solar charger controller
If I did six of them batteries what kind of solar controller would I need
@@codyhadley7003 You would need to wire all 6 in parallel and get a 36volt charge controller.
Did you steel some scooter batteries.
what is the dimensions of the battery pack? and where did you get that case for your diy solar generator. thank you
I have 4 batteries that all charged. Then came the hard part. Trying to activate the batteries! I thought the dongles were supposed to transmit a code to achieve this? Nope it didn’t happened. By the way I should probably mention my first X1 dongle overheated an died an early death. So I proceeded to try the other methods described without actually having the tools to execute. Improve time! I tried the neg to neg with a wire since it’s so easy and quick. NOPE!
I used two wires from the “+” “-“ and two of the batteries woke right up but other two I still have not been able to wake. I even bought the small male connector so I could do the job properly but I just can’t wake these lazy boys!
Any help or ideas would appreciated!
You know I feel your pain. I have a couple that are inconsistent in waking up. When you have a pack of 4 batteries, you don't know all 4 are working. Frustrating for sure.
Is there any way you could send me some blueprints i am working on a fire fighting system for electrical fires caused by battery walls or could you suggest a website that I can find one that is known to catch on fire. Please and thank you. Also a huge fan I absolutely love your videos
Where can we get that charger input adapter that you decided to not buy since its so expensive?
Somewhere in China, sorry I didn’t save the details of that connector
I was interested in getting it, I can’t find it anywhere
Hey, I got an Idea.. How about YOU Turn them on before you ship them to your customer so that they won't have to hassle with this Mickey Mouse Bullshit... Just a thought... I'm glad I saw this video before I bought anything!!!
I reject your idea. I think you best suited to purchase expensive batteries. DIY is not for everyone .
Do you notice his alibi BS..?? boob toobers are asking basic acquisition questions and this phony can't remember where he made the purchase.. LOL!
You are so lost, no wonder you are happy
Man you off as always..
BTW I need a 40kWh backup .. is it more cost effective to buy a use bolt or Tesla battery pack .. sell what I don’t need or buy a load of scooter battery?
Scooter batteries are $125/kwh. Bolt battery packs are ????? Tesla battery packs are around $300/kwh
@@jehugarcia thanks for the information I still need todo some more research.. I’ll contact you guys directly when ready .. Thanks
As a noob to the battery/solar game i have a question about the referenced charger in last few videos and link on website. It still requires a connection modification correct? We need to cut and attach a xt90 male to charger to work with the dongle right?
Yes, I think the one I got had no connector
Does it stay on forever or does it have a countdown after not current flöowing that it will shutoff after
What now?
@@jehugarcia If you activate it will it power of after a certain time of not being used or wiöllö it stay on forever?
Did you watch the videos, I said that if you let the pack completely die it will go into hibernation
@@jehugarcia well i watched many of your vids so for but more of the builöding and so and right now i gotta say that i watch more ham radio stuff but ill get back soon
@@gamingforlive2150 here is the full playlist of the Okai Batteries czcams.com/play/PL2l32K1w0jp-BTygvBavu5_qcOhffWqHX.html
How much does 1 battery weight
Will the dongle work on lyft or bird scooter batteries? Also, if I buy the 4 dongle and only plug 2 batteries into it will it work, or do you need all 4 batteries plugged into it for it to work? I bought 2 batteries but will be buying 2 more in the future. :)
Will only work on okai ES200G scooter batteries as far as I know. You can plug 1-4 packs they are wired in in parallel.
What charger is the 2 amp one?
any of these will work amzn.to/3tacV4q
Which clamp meter is that?
@@jehugarcia me thinks thats the wrong product :p
You can get cheaper clamp meters if you only need AC but this is the cheapest that also does DC clamp current. I really like it.
@@ecospider5 Yeah cheap DC is what i'm looking for. that link is bringing up an extension cable for me though lol
amzn.to/3tl32kj
Can I use this battery on my jackery 240
Hey Andrew, the Jackery 240 has a 12 volt charge controller, accepting 5 amps. These scooter batters are 36 volt spitting out about 45 amps. You might be able to use a 36V to 12V converter, but I'm not sure if the Jackery could deal with the amperage. Even if this does work, you would be losing quite a bit of efficiency.
Id love to get this but you are sold out of everything
I'm having issues with capacity, I have 4 hooked up together and can only get .4kwh into them. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
No one will be able to help you without details of how and what you are trying to do.
I emailed support.
Jehu how much would that charging cable be that you said would be too expensive which connect negative pins? Where could i find one. I have multiple batteries i would rather make one cable with a XT-90 or xt 60 plug for multiple uses for now and future use.
You gotta find it in China, it was $4 when ordering 2000, I don’t know the model number
@@jehugarcia Thanks for the quick reply yes that is too expensive.
@@jehugarcia Hello: Is there a way to order powerwalls from you for installation in homes in Caribbean island neighborhoods that greatly need it?
@@jehugarcia do you have any extras you could sell of these connectors. Like the other guy I have 24 of these batteries and would really like one connector to assist with turning them on vs having to solder 24 more xt60s
@@NoOne12 I found them here www.mutuallc.com/Z409F-4-pin-Battery-connector-pd40602085.html
I can't get my battery to activate. I've tried everything you have said but it still won't work. Do you think anyone can help?
Does it matter if the conectors are xt90 or xt60
How are you trying to wake up your battery?
@@jehugarcia I connected the two negatives first, then I hooked up the charger to the smaller port. The small red light was on but I never got the main red to come on.
Hey Jehu, I ordered a scooter battery pack but now kinda want the enclosure? If I place another order for the enclosed battery pack, can you throw in a case for the first one I bought 😅😃😄😁
No we cut the cases with a saw, you can’t reinstall them
@@jehugarcia either way. Thanks for the videos and deals. You’d the best man!
@@jehugarcia i ordered another one. I also ordered a dongle earlier for the first pack. I didn’t see that 2 are the same price as 1 for the dongles, think you can slip a dongle with the new battery pack order :). Sorry if I’m streatching it.
2 are the same price as one? Don’t think so
@@jehugarcia not really but for one it’s $25.11 and for 2 it’s $29. In my head it was the same. But close enough. You don’t have too it’s okayman, that shipping cost is crazy.
@jehugarcia where can purchase a 2 pin connector charger for the 4 batteries I purchase from you.Thank you
There’s a link on the product page jag35.com/collections/jehus-deals/products/copy-of-40-cell-ncr18650bd-18650-lithium-scooter-battery-pack-w-case
I bought it but it has a different end. Do I cut it off and add an XT90? What about the blue wire? I see it connected on your side.
Yeah add the xt90 connector, Which blue wire?
@@jehugarcia didn’t know if there was one, haven’t cut it off yet, but there is one on the cut connector that came with the battery.
You stili haven't answer the big question. How Many CYCLES are in the batteries?
500-1500 depending on temperatures and how many amps you push through them
I don’t want to sound rude but why don’t u wake them up before shipping them out?
Because Diy
@@jehugarcia hmmm no good
Those who refuse to learn and try new things get to pay 3x more for things. If you want easy and ready to go, just buy a
Second bluetti, no need to wake it up.
@@jehugarcia sounds like u are lazy and not serous about running a business! 😂
I think it was interesting to spend a couple of hours on waking them up. Learned a lot and now I have the needed cables made with XT60’s and ready to go. No biggie! (BTW, you did sound quite rude IMO)
These batteries really seem like a pain. Custom dongles, plugs and ports ect. At some point just salvaging the cells makes more sense.
Not at all! Just follow the instructions and you'll be ok! Mine worked perfectly
I have the thing for you then, 80k lbs of 2600mah EVE cells in 4s packs, super easy to harvest cells, coming up soon
It seems like more cost/trouble BUT considering these scooter packs are using a very safe and well designed BMS it’s a awesome scalable and super cheap solution to use these packs.
If you just need one pack or build a 20 pack solution you still have the right sized BMS.
Where raw cells make sense is if you need some other usable voltage range, that’s really the only negative to these packs is you have to have a load that can work in the output voltage limits of the pack, but you can serial at least 2 packs to go from 36
To 72v. So that’s nice. You might be able to get 3 packs, in series but you are slightly over the BMS mosfet rated voltage (100v)
Maybe, running around the block three times, while standing on your head, might wake up the batteries..?? LOL! Sounds like a real PITA..
That’s what non diy people say.
@@jehugarcia hey U garcia, you have no idea to what level I am DIY.. I was designing, repairing, restoring and modifying electronic circuits before your daddy was born and continue to repair, restore and modify audio today..!! In addition, I owned and operated a construction/alteration company for more than 25 years, in addition to building new homes..!! I cringe every time I see you and Willie hack, chop your and click bait your way into a case with your phony macho attitude and then alibi your mistakes and misinformation with a make-up videos after you've been corrected by others who know more than you do, coño .. LOL! If it wasn't for boob toob, you'd still be cutting lawns or cleaning pools...!!! I'm betting you don't have the cojones to leave this post for others to see...
@pjf of course you are the expert and I am just an overpaid gardener...... the world knows who I am, nobody knows who you are or cares for that matter.
J