This was definitely fun to be a part of! I appreciate you guys letting me come help with the Apache project and share at least one or two things I know about building slightly above average differentials 😂 Or in this case maybe below average!
When pressing in new bearings I always use 3 ice cubes made with reverse-osmosis filtered mountain stream water and an air fryer on french fry mode for 30 minutes.
That's an envy able air fryer , you didn't mention turning the recipe in there after 15 minutes ? Those ice cubes sound ideal. Decent gesture sharing those frozen secrets with all. I just can't figure why my chilled bearings cracked while pressing then onto the nicely done carrier?
I love how Rich and friends really capture the beauty of working on cars with your friends. The way they make due with what they have and it still works out just fine. The laughing and joking together it really captures what the car community is all about. Thanks for bringing us along for the ride
Couldn’t agree more! The cars are cool and all, but the memories and relationships made with good people along the way are there that make this hobby so great!
Just a couple of thoughts. DG dropping a video that lasts over an hour on a Friday totally amped me up. The fact that you had to come up with creative ways to build this rear end without all of the "professional" tools is just Rich practicing what he preaches. Just get out there and at least try. DG is def one of my favorite CZcamsrs.
The thing, about people not doing stuff because they are worried that the don't know how to do it. Is 100% accurate! Such wise words. Just get wrenching. Take pictures/draw diagrams to yourself. Even the best of the industry has started somewhere. Just go out there, start wrenching with your friends. It's awesome.
This is the very best build channel for this kind of activity. Taking something from nothing and makes it superb. The foresight in these project and being to over come problems and not get defeated. Rich explains everything and is amazing at doing it. I had a rough week, I’m a happy guy now
Thanks for showing the bad with the good. I'm doing a frame-off resto-mod of a 1985 Dodge crew cab with a 12v Cummins swap, having NEVER tackled anything like that before in my life. A lot of my information comes from CZcams videos (I'm a visual learner), a large % of which is Deboss Garage, and sometimes seeing how it can go wrong, but you can still salvage it and fix it, is absolutely vital to a guy's confidence in trying it myself.
Hi Rich, love your channel. The first rear I messed with was a 9 inch, put new gear set and locker in it, had a learning curve with seating bearings on the carrier but I got through it. Concern I have is what looks like a fairly deep gouge in the pinion shaft from removing the large bearing. Guy cooking the steak was running interference so we didn't see the start of the bearing removal and the camera wasn't focused on it so might just be an optical conclusion. If it is a gouge I wouldn't trust it. I had a small nick in an axle changing out the bearing and that's where she snaped a couple months later. Anyway, keep up the good work. Al
Its been really fun watching this series with my elderly parents. They're both Car Guy types, but Rich an Company have made this build so entertaining that they really enjoyed the LS build and now this diff build was right on target too. 👍👍👍
A few tips I received when doing differentials for people. Thin the marking compound with gear oil. Only mark a few teeth. Just turn the carrier when making the pattern. And basically you're looking for an oval on the face of the teeth. If there's a straight edge on deep part of tooth then pinion is too deep and vice versa
New tool back boys .. scrubbing brush on the sawzall or the power drill depending which direction you need to clean a surface or hole.... Works so good... I even have a food grade Stainless steel wire ball for my drill to clean thermos's.
I worked at a 9" Ford specialist rear end shop for 19 years. You can even put a 35 spline carrier in a small bearing case. But that is not recommended as the bearing is so thin they burn up in street driving. But 31 spline is not an issue. And yes you need the pocket bearing retainer. Yes they All came with them and should have them. It would have been easier set up to use a solid spacer with shims rather than the crush sleeve. But it still works.
For degreasing I use dollar store oven cleaner and a chip brush. Spray it on, let it soak, agitate with the chip brush spray again. I rinse with plain water in an old siphon feed paint gun. Pressure washers make a mess. Get that entire center section clean as a whistle with $2 and a quart of water. Can do it inside when its cold out.
Fun to watch, setting up gears like you’re doing is an art in and of itself, not simple but not rocket science. Still putting this stuff together and taking apart over and over to dial it in can be incredibly frustrating so having a good attitude is the best place to start.
One thing. Just nitpicking, but, the contact pattern you're most interested in is the other side of the tooth from what you were filming. A ring and pinion actually uses the convex side of the gear tooth for forward motion because it has more surface area, and is more wear resistant. It's a common mistake, and I probably wouldn't have noticed if manual gearboxes and differentials wasn't one of my classes at Nashville Auto Diesel back in the day. Still all in all, pretty informative. Keep up the good work.
hi hemisphere/carrier bearings setup . Wind the adjuster closest to crown wheel in till back lash is within spec . Wind other adjuster hard up against carrier then do similar to wheel bearing adjustment . Once u get the adjusters set up then set preload . Wind adj that furthest away [from C/wheel ] inwards one hole DONE .
It’s nice that it’s the easiest final drive on the planet to work on. They’re a real treat in my opinion. Technically should of checked the wear pattern before taking it all apart. The gears have mated together a certain way. It may not be the correct picture perfect pattern but it’s how they wore together. She may be abit noisy set up different
I've bough used/rebuilt nascar 3rd members before. its been a few years, but pre rona, they where available in all sorts of different ratios, and had a detroit locker
I have a peice of 6 to 10 mm X 50/70mm flat 3 foot long or which ever is convenient, with a half moon and two bolt holes, put the bolts into the flange other end against something, holds flange so you can undo the nuts, use it a lot on cv shafts, thanks for sharing, all the best to yous and your loved ones
Would love to see you pull this apart back home and see how much lash there is after the trip and how much torque it takes to turn the pinion and possibly check the same numbers on a junk yard high mileage diff id expect after a few hunded tousand kilometers the diff to be far from in spec ?
Internet here. When you set up used gears, measure the backlash before and set to that, don't set them back up as though they're new. You want to set them up as close to the same as how they were so you don't wear a new pattern into the gears, they don't always like that.
Five years from now, Rich goes to drain and fill the differential and double-takes when the oil blorches out in the color and texture of Dijon mustard.
As far as I know with my years of axle building big and small bearing just refurs to the outer axle bearing nothing to do with the 3rd member but the housing is also bigger on the big bearing I have 35 spline shafts in my stock 3rd member
kinda nice to see a step by step. But I'm going to remove my 8.8" diff completely and replacing it with a tiny GM diff for a CTS-V, because I can. Moohahaha
I know this is an old video and my comment is late but a trick i use to get bearings on is put motor oil in an old deep fryer and set it on high put bearing in there in the basket and then drop it on the the gear shaft or in this case the carrier
The thing about being an amateur and jumping into a build is that every channel I watch has the same scenario. The host will say something like "when you're fixing a 62-66 ford b-spline 8 knuckle carrier housing ring... (whatever part they're working on) you always HAVE TO wiggle this part to the left and use this specific shim otherwise it'll blow up in 10 miles"! So we watch that and say to ourselves "If I don't have a lifetime of intricate knowledge about every piece and part, I'm going to save up for 8 months, buy a part and ruin it instantly"!! Most of us don't have the time and money give it a shot, break it, learn something and try again hoping you know enough the next time. THAT is what holds a lot of us back from just jumping into a project.
I need advice. I’m sticking a z06 LT4 in an old 65 swb c10 and would like some asvice on tranny. What tranny should I stick in it. 4L80E or 10L90-E? It’s just a fun truck but I want to be able to take road trips in not just tire smoke. I have a 6 speed manual for the other 65 swb c10 that’s next in line and will get turbo or turbos with LS and the manual. I really like the Rossler 4L80-E option but I’ve heard the 10 speed trannys make it faster and also better mileage I. The highway. Keep in mind the next build will be the toy with more power so this is my daily driver. Any thoughts you have or anyone with an opinion please respond.
Yep, your right about that, that's one thing that royally sucks about living in Canada most of it, except Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta is basically living in the Rust Belt. And its causes our vehicles to rust to pieces unless you oil the living crap out of them and even then it's hard to keep make them last unless you only drive them in the summer months. It's a pain in the ass that's for sure. What really irks me is our government choices to use salt galore on our highways which contributes to the rust as well. So basically we don't have much of a chance in defeating rust living up here. I't will make it home, Rich. What a cute Dog! he's just loves ya...
If You would put the Timkin Bearing in the Freezer for a few minutes. Grab the Bearing with some Channel Locks and put it over the Shaft. Let go of the Timkin Bearing and it will fall right onto the Shaft. BUT don't force it cuz You don't want the Timkin Bearing to drop too fast and bounce up cuz then the Bearing will not be seated at the bottom of the Shaft. Trust Me this does Work and it So Easy DO NOT HEAT THE SHAFT when Freezing the Timkin Bearing!!!
![Customizing Our Custom Parts! #ApacheStroker [EP8]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Zx0R2GOAsuI/mqdefault.jpg)
![Customizing Our Custom Parts! #ApacheStroker [EP8]](/img/tr.png)
![Building a Ford 9 Inch Rear Axle (The Easy Way) #JuiceboxBronco [EP10]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/34QWKF8Nfu4/mqdefault.jpg)
This was definitely fun to be a part of! I appreciate you guys letting me come help with the Apache project and share at least one or two things I know about building slightly above average differentials 😂 Or in this case maybe below average!
Thanks for your help Jacob!
Your way is the way I would do it build it right the wrong way👌
@@DEBOSSGARAGE Richard I have a question to ask you about my 1989 Ford 7.3IDI project?
Jacob is a great parts cleaner....
I never realized how much work was involved in rebuilding a differential, I enjoyed every minute.
When pressing in new bearings I always use the old bearing as a press adapter instead of a socket. It's always the right size
Except in this case lol the bearings are different sizes lol
I do this as well but I cut the old race in one spot so it doesn't get stuck
When pressing in new bearings I always use 3 ice cubes made with reverse-osmosis filtered mountain stream water and an air fryer on french fry mode for 30 minutes.
Ah, the elusive perfect recipe for success has been discovered! 🙌🏼
That's an envy able air fryer , you didn't mention turning the recipe in there after 15 minutes ? Those ice cubes sound ideal. Decent gesture sharing those frozen secrets with all. I just can't figure why my chilled bearings cracked while pressing then onto the nicely done carrier?
I love how Rich and friends really capture the beauty of working on cars with your friends. The way they make due with what they have and it still works out just fine. The laughing and joking together it really captures what the car community is all about. Thanks for bringing us along for the ride
Thanks guys and hope to see you Rich at international centre
Couldn’t agree more! The cars are cool and all, but the memories and relationships made with good people along the way are there that make this hobby so great!
Just a couple of thoughts. DG dropping a video that lasts over an hour on a Friday totally amped me up. The fact that you had to come up with creative ways to build this rear end without all of the "professional" tools is just Rich practicing what he preaches. Just get out there and at least try. DG is def one of my favorite CZcamsrs.
I gotta say - Jacob seems like an amazing dude to hang out with. You guys are hilarious throughout this video - awesome work as always!
Love Andy, we need to see more of him on the channel!!!
The thing, about people not doing stuff because they are worried that the don't know how to do it. Is 100% accurate! Such wise words. Just get wrenching. Take pictures/draw diagrams to yourself. Even the best of the industry has started somewhere. Just go out there, start wrenching with your friends. It's awesome.
I so love my trany washer, moters to drain pans, jackstands & jacks... all come out super clean!
This is the very best build channel for this kind of activity. Taking something from nothing and makes it superb. The foresight in these project and being to over come problems and not get defeated. Rich explains everything and is amazing at doing it. I had a rough week, I’m a happy guy now
Thanks for showing the bad with the good. I'm doing a frame-off resto-mod of a 1985 Dodge crew cab with a 12v Cummins swap, having NEVER tackled anything like that before in my life. A lot of my information comes from CZcams videos (I'm a visual learner), a large % of which is Deboss Garage, and sometimes seeing how it can go wrong, but you can still salvage it and fix it, is absolutely vital to a guy's confidence in trying it myself.
1:05:20 Nothing wrong with elastic bands, but you didn't slap the pumpkin and say "That's not going anywhere"!
Saw your video because of Sally's speed shop on the rearend setup..I am now a new subscriber to your channel.
Thanks for watching!
Hi Rich, love your channel.
The first rear I messed with was a 9 inch, put new gear set and locker in it, had a learning curve with seating bearings on the carrier but I got through it.
Concern I have is what looks like a fairly deep gouge in the pinion shaft from removing the large bearing. Guy cooking the steak was running interference so we didn't see the start of the bearing removal and the camera wasn't focused on it so might just be an optical conclusion. If it is a gouge I wouldn't trust it. I had a small nick in an axle changing out the bearing and that's where she snaped a couple months later.
Anyway, keep up the good work.
Al
Such a good project/channel! Respect! And the knowledge is crazy!
0k guys, that was entertaining. Be you, don't get the bighead and we all will love your natural presentations. We want to be that cool too.
Its been really fun watching this series with my elderly parents. They're both Car Guy types, but Rich an Company have made this build so entertaining that they really enjoyed the LS build and now this diff build was right on target too.
👍👍👍
A few tips I received when doing differentials for people. Thin the marking compound with gear oil. Only mark a few teeth. Just turn the carrier when making the pattern. And basically you're looking for an oval on the face of the teeth. If there's a straight edge on deep part of tooth then pinion is too deep and vice versa
The best part of this video is watching U2 drunk try to build a differential loved every second of it 🤘🏻
New tool back boys .. scrubbing brush on the sawzall or the power drill depending which direction you need to clean a surface or hole.... Works so good... I even have a food grade Stainless steel wire ball for my drill to clean thermos's.
Use US Gear street series gears ,quiet as factory .
Takes 2-4 hrs to o/haul + 2-4 hrs to setup
Daytona pinion support is a good option [huge bearing ]
I worked at a 9" Ford specialist rear end shop for 19 years. You can even put a 35 spline carrier in a small bearing case. But that is not recommended as the bearing is so thin they burn up in street driving. But 31 spline is not an issue. And yes you need the pocket bearing retainer. Yes they All came with them and should have them. It would have been easier set up to use a solid spacer with shims rather than the crush sleeve. But it still works.
For degreasing I use dollar store oven cleaner and a chip brush. Spray it on, let it soak, agitate with the chip brush spray again. I rinse with plain water in an old siphon feed paint gun. Pressure washers make a mess. Get that entire center section clean as a whistle with $2 and a quart of water. Can do it inside when its cold out.
love watching your videos DeBoss Garage, very relaxing and enjoying to watch.
That feeling when there’s a dot next to the DG subscription icon and it’s a 60+ minute banger.
Big bearing small bearing with the 3rd member is referring to the pinion bearing sizes.
Fun to watch, setting up gears like you’re doing is an art in and of itself, not simple but not rocket science. Still putting this stuff together and taking apart over and over to dial it in can be incredibly frustrating so having a good attitude is the best place to start.
She’s comin along great. Can’t wait to see it finished.
If I don’t have access to a solvent tank, I use WD-40 to break down grease and oil on parts, then simple green or soap and water.
Thx for sharing all the hiccups. Best way to learn when it doesn't go quite to plan, but then u know that. 👍
My kingdom for an induction bearing heater... thanks for the great vid guys!
Those bauer corded impacts work pretty well. I've used one to loosen beadlock rim nuts on a m934a2.
One thing. Just nitpicking, but, the contact pattern you're most interested in is the other side of the tooth from what you were filming. A ring and pinion actually uses the convex side of the gear tooth for forward motion because it has more surface area, and is more wear resistant. It's a common mistake, and I probably wouldn't have noticed if manual gearboxes and differentials wasn't one of my classes at Nashville Auto Diesel back in the day.
Still all in all, pretty informative. Keep up the good work.
Dude... that's good info. Hadn't really thought about that. Thanks for sharing! 👍
hi
hemisphere/carrier bearings setup . Wind the adjuster closest to crown wheel in till back lash is within spec . Wind other adjuster hard up against carrier then do similar to wheel bearing adjustment . Once u get the adjusters set up then set preload . Wind adj that furthest away [from C/wheel ] inwards one hole DONE .
Thank you Jacob, you're the man!
It’s nice that it’s the easiest final drive on the planet to work on. They’re a real treat in my opinion.
Technically should of checked the wear pattern before taking it all apart. The gears have mated together a certain way. It may not be the correct picture perfect pattern but it’s how they wore together. She may be abit noisy set up different
That’s a good tip! I will definitely keep that in mind for future diff rebuilds
@@SallysSpeedShop yea man just good practice too to do that
Nice work...I tend to get a better pattern when I thin down the gear paint with a little oil.
It’s 35 spline carrier that needs the big bearings
Just set the bearing on an incandescent light bulb. I bought a case of them back when they were going to be outlawed just for expanding bearings.
Tune in next week when Rich puts new breaks on the forklift!🤣 Sorry, had to say it.
Back in my working days, I used the old race as my installer. It's the right size and easy to knock back out should it get partially stuck.
I've bough used/rebuilt nascar 3rd members before. its been a few years, but pre rona, they where available in all sorts of different ratios, and had a detroit locker
I have a peice of 6 to 10 mm X 50/70mm flat 3 foot long or which ever is convenient, with a half moon and two bolt holes, put the bolts into the flange other end against something, holds flange so you can undo the nuts, use it a lot on cv shafts, thanks for sharing, all the best to yous and your loved ones
One step closer.👌👍
In my Dakota it has adjustable side load on the bearings like that Ford 9 inch.
whooo! hour long ep nice!
Them, you can't smell a picture, 4:09
Another awesome Video 👍
Rich I know we should have picked up a craigslist dishwasher. it would be perfect for a makeshift parts washer with high phosphate cascade detergent.
Thats grease in the diff , so you dont hear it whining like the misses
I used a harbor freight flux core welder to weld my spider gears in my Dana 60 rear and I put 15,000 hard miles on it so far.
Yes, I agree we just have to make sure you’re a good welder and then it will hold
apply more power......
Coleman white gas in a small Walmart clear tote.
Stuff works so so good at cleaning parts!
Would love to see you pull this apart back home and see how much lash there is after the trip and how much torque it takes to turn the pinion and possibly check the same numbers on a junk yard high mileage diff id expect after a few hunded tousand kilometers the diff to be far from in spec ?
Internet here. When you set up used gears, measure the backlash before and set to that, don't set them back up as though they're new. You want to set them up as close to the same as how they were so you don't wear a new pattern into the gears, they don't always like that.
Should have kept it GM and put a 9.3" out of an oldsmobile... already coil springs and unbreakable. Used to be put in top fuel dragsters and rails.
Clean the bearing off of brake cleaner throw it into the beef stew, that oughta be warm enough
Five years from now, Rich goes to drain and fill the differential and double-takes when the oil blorches out in the color and texture of Dijon mustard.
Next video - doing the rear main seal on a 2004 Honda CRV - both with and without oiling the seal and seeing which last longer! hahaha
Yes we make these all the time and use them in our demo derby cars
The lack of oven cleaner to clean that pumpkin... 😋
As far as I know with my years of axle building big and small bearing just refurs to the outer axle bearing nothing to do with the 3rd member but the housing is also bigger on the big bearing I have 35 spline shafts in my stock 3rd member
" THERE'S A DEAD DEER IN THE YARD " LMFAO.
Me and my boss I work every day build reruns and transmissions. You’re gonna toaster oven and they will drop right on.
That's how I rebuilt my M5ODR2 manual transmission. No press, just a toaster oven. Dropped right on.
@@ndog1234765 yes, exactly they will fall right on
New bearing install on the carrier? Just heat the bearing with a torch (400 degrees) and the bearing will fall on the trunnion.
kinda nice to see a step by step. But I'm going to remove my 8.8" diff completely and replacing it with a tiny GM diff for a CTS-V, because I can. Moohahaha
Bring this truck to Motorama!
Yea most snug posative preload will work unless you're running a ton of TQ & HP..... then it can flex.
Can I have all the part#s for that 9" rebuild including the Eton trutrac unit...
Wonder what the original wear pattern was like if you had checked before dissassembly, I'd reckon no better, good work gents :-)
You’re probably right. We should have checked that!
I know this is an old video and my comment is late but a trick i use to get bearings on is put motor oil in an old deep fryer and set it on high put bearing in there in the basket and then drop it on the the gear shaft or in this case the carrier
See ya next week @ Motoramma!!!!!!
Kerosene is a great way to clean oily parts also.
hi The after market 28--31 are interchangeable
They do make rubber grease for lubicating seals like that
The thing about being an amateur and jumping into a build is that every channel I watch has the same scenario. The host will say something like "when you're fixing a 62-66 ford b-spline 8 knuckle carrier housing ring... (whatever part they're working on) you always HAVE TO wiggle this part to the left and use this specific shim otherwise it'll blow up in 10 miles"! So we watch that and say to ourselves "If I don't have a lifetime of intricate knowledge about every piece and part, I'm going to save up for 8 months, buy a part and ruin it instantly"!! Most of us don't have the time and money give it a shot, break it, learn something and try again hoping you know enough the next time. THAT is what holds a lot of us back from just jumping into a project.
CZcams University helps to prevent such things! 😊
I need advice. I’m sticking a z06 LT4 in an old 65 swb c10 and would like some asvice on tranny. What tranny should I stick in it. 4L80E or 10L90-E? It’s just a fun truck but I want to be able to take road trips in not just tire smoke. I have a 6 speed manual for the other 65 swb c10 that’s next in line and will get turbo or turbos with LS and the manual. I really like the Rossler 4L80-E option but I’ve heard the 10 speed trannys make it faster and also better mileage I. The highway. Keep in mind the next build will be the toy with more power so this is my daily driver. Any thoughts you have or anyone with an opinion please respond.
I want some of the forbidden mOuNtAin dEw
This is not the normal, (this is my content stuff) everyone working on one project and all getting content yea keep it up Rich.
I was wondering the same thing on your last video
Yep, your right about that, that's one thing that royally sucks about living in Canada most of it, except Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta is basically living in the Rust Belt. And its causes our vehicles to rust to pieces unless you oil the living crap out of them and even then it's hard to keep make them last unless you only drive them in the summer months. It's a pain in the ass that's for sure. What really irks me is our government choices to use salt galore on our highways which contributes to the rust as well. So basically we don't have much of a chance in defeating rust living up here. I't will make it home, Rich. What a cute Dog! he's just loves ya...
i'll take salt over black ice any day, i dont trust people to slow down when its hovering around that melting/ freezing point.
Why don't use the old race to hit the new one in ??? Works well
If you can get Bob or Doug to narrate I’d watch Canadians tell us low rent staters how cool our rust free crap is.😂
Like it 👍
Who had to find all the needed plate washers that should have come off first? lol
Jacob from DD Speed Shop?? Is that DD Speed Shop Peg?
Rich, I don't see the link in the description for the wear pattern and what to change. Let me know if I missed it.
Added it now
A couple of years has passed already??? How long have we been watching this video??? 🤪
I was going to say if it needed shims now then it would have needed shims before from the factory. Lol
Make it fit! Get a bigger hammer ! LOL
You could a fish weight balance too cheque your torque
Rich tell your buddy to torque in star pattern. not a circle......
You really should be using a brass punch it’s soft to knock in the bearings and races
the races are so hard, I have never damaged one. I do however don't like the idea of little pieces of brass in my drivelines
Personal preference I guess
Look at the end of the axles and you can get tell how many splines they are
Genius!
I never thought of looking.
@@Hanzyscure 31 splines have a flat outer face with 2 dots in steel 180° apart, 28 splines have a deep dish in outer axle center
Really hoping it would end with a clip of the deer in the yard but the same meow as normal.
Shoulda got a war case or n case
You forgot to mention: How was the stew? Venison stew is dope, AF
It was incredible! Andy is a wizard in the kitchen.
Whata the song/artist in the intro?
" *_Not everything on the internet is true_* ." _Abraham Lincoln_
should fit. came both ways in the 70 housings
If You would put the Timkin Bearing in the Freezer for a few minutes. Grab the Bearing with some Channel Locks and put it over the Shaft. Let go of the Timkin Bearing and it will fall right onto the Shaft. BUT don't force it cuz You don't want the Timkin Bearing to drop too fast and bounce up cuz then the Bearing will not be seated at the bottom of the Shaft. Trust Me this does Work and it So Easy DO NOT HEAT THE SHAFT when Freezing the Timkin Bearing!!!
Doesn’t freezing something make it smaller? Sounds like something I liked to see.
Cool