Only got here in 2019 and this is still an amazing video. Sure, it doesn't cover every single angle at the topic but it's a whole lot more comprehensive than most of the other "here's a colour wheel" videos that masquerade as colour theory. Thanks for helping me think differently about my models and how colour affects them :) Also, I found this because you were in Tabletop Minions' Atom Smasher's 2019 Adepticon Ask the Pros video :D
Awesome, well happy to help as always and I am glad this was useful. Uncle Adam is a great guy and good friend, I was honored to take part in his vid. :)
I’ve learned more from your vids in the last two weeks than I have from the rest of the internet in the last two months. I love the content and your breakdowns and tutorials
I always enjoy your videos. I always try to click "like" because I do want to help promote your channel. But this video is the only video where I have ever - in my life - liked, favorited, saved to watch later, AND downloaded as part of my premium subscription. I love this one so much, and I learned so much. Thank you for this!
Thanks Vince, your videos are always so insightful. This is especially helpful, picking up a brush for the first time in some time. Not sure how I came across your channel awhile back, but I'm glad I did!
Cool work Vince, got a complaint though, small one though cause I understand this topic is quite wide and it'd take ages to do it properly. I find that it's paramount for painters to integrate saturation into the way they're thinking. We tend to think in terms of dark and light colours (which is thinking in value or lightness), completely ignoring the saturation property of colours. So it's easy to assume the highlight for any dark green is an ultra intense, almost fluorescent green (see how GW highlights Dark Angels). That produces an effect so bizarre it's kind of like a neon light show (which is effectively just that, an example of saturation contrast). It's cool if you're specifically going for it, but it's not realistic at all. Another example would be how red armour or cloth is highlighted in bright orange, making the model look like it's on fire. An even better benefit of undestanding saturation is helping you understand why a lot of red acrylics out there (e.g. Mephiston Red) produce a very dull (desaturated) red and it then helps with finding ways to make them really intense by, say, mixing in some red ink (or, if you want to cheat, some satin/gloss varnish). If you ever do a second part to this video, I'd love to see saturation properly discussed as well as the different types of contrasts, i.e. hue contrast, value contrast, saturation contrast and yes, even the rarely talked about reflectivity contrast (gloss or metallics vs matte surfaces).
It's a good point for sure, and something that would definitely be a good topic to dive into for a part 2. I will put it on the list for when I circle back to this in the future. Side note, the Red/Orange thing drives me bonkers ;)
I'm so late to this video but that also stuck out to me. I hope you've since revised your thinking on saturation Vince, it's useful across mediums and right up there with tint and shade - a lot of times it's not described in a way that resonates, but I'll attempt to do so here: saturation is the relative level of pure "color" present vs. neutral (gray, black or white, whatever corresponds to the value of the color). So VMC flat red is like 100% saturation, but say your standard flesh tone is a very desaturated orange. Saturation is the very edge of the color wheel, desaturated colors are moving towards the center. Great video!
Thank you so much for this, I was really struggling making something that's not cringe inducingly bad. Especially the triangles, the small tip to try and think of things that we see in the real world helped, and having two main colours with 1 sparingly used.
Great tutorial. I agree with your recommendation on limiting your pallet color choices to tie balance and composition together. The only other comment would be to reinforce the notion of creating contrasts which you imply between adjacent elements of a figure using variations in tones, shades and tints. The monochromatic pallet would be an example of achieving this separation.....using only one color and creating contrast by manipulating tints and shades against each other. Never be committed...if something is not working try manipulating shade or tint first or another color altogether if need be. Sometimes getting it right can even comes by accident. Don't forget to leverage gloss, satin and flat reflectance. As cooky as it may sound I sometimes squint, blurring my vision to get a more abstract sense of how color balance and composition might be coming along. Viewing after strong drink might appeal to some as an alternate option. Great job as well Tom!
+Jeffery Schutt Totally agreed. I find it very fun and challenging to paint a figure in a monochormatic fashion but still have it be visually interesing, it's one of the reasons I love that daemon prince so much. Thanks as always for watching and for the great insights.
Thanks for this video. Very good points on taking a miniature specific approach. Among my fine art books collections I recommend the following title, please note that they are NOT miniatures oriented: - A visual Guide to classical art Theory, by Eric Mantle. Each page address a speciifc rule or concept with diagrams and a little accompanying text. The diagrams first makes for an easy read in contrast to text heavy books. The caveats is that it focus on theory, it doesn't pretend anything else anyway. In effect it hammers the fondamental concepts, which can be wieved both as pros and cons. However in the long run it pays to have a good run of the fundamental. In particular having in a part of yor mind the 3 color "wheel" solid helps understand the basic of color mixing. - Color and Light, by James Gurney, this one is more about translating to actual painting, and as the title suggest also addresses the issue of light in addition to color. The author gives many hints and tips for mixing and using color to create a specific mood. Although he mostly use oils on canvas the advices are also useful for miniatures, especially if you are working on an more artistic approach rather than chain painting armies. There are many inspiring examples of the author own works, both from real life or from is Dinotopia series. It give many ideas for colors selections and examples to use limited palette or to use various hues to enrich a specific tone.
Great Video! I'd love to see much theory from you. YT is full of videos where you can watch someone painting something. But most tutorials are lacking proper theory in addition to the techniques shown. Thanks for putting this great stuff online!
Thank you, it's definitely important to me, as understanding that theory can help you to experiment and discover new stuff on your own. I will add more to the list and see what I can do.
Very informative discussion of color theory and how it relates to minis. I will definitely be more conscious of why certain colors work better in certain areas and not others. I play orks (my favorite of many armies) and find that it also can be fun to purposely "break the rules" in order to emphasize a certain detail.
+Dominic Fawver As with all rules, they are really more of guidelines ;) Orks are a great example, as their skin tone is not neutral (they are probably green of some variety), you automatically have color choices right from the get go. This is one of the things that can make them challenging, but also very rewarding when done well.
Thank you, I have some later videos where I am deep diving into individual colors, those might also be useful to you. - czcams.com/video/QN8tB4MFhBs/video.html
another great video mate :) really nailed what i think is one of the most important aspect's of painting a model, and what many people have trouble with .
+plastic sturgeon It's definitely tricky and something that is easy to go wrong on. I hope this helps people think about their colors. Thanks for watching and commenting as always.
Hi there Vince! I just found your channel! I have to say I think your videos are some of the most helpful to be found anywhere on the internet. I realize I'm very late to the party, but I'd like to chime in here. I have a BFA ( Bachelor of Fine Arts) in painting. I'm not new to painting, only to painting miniatures. I had to study color theory for my degree. I was very fortunate that my instructor was a VERY VERY good professional airbrush artist. His approach to color theory was unique and quite in depth. I have not seen his ideas addressed ANYWHERE online. (Of course, it's not beginning color theory. It's quite advanced.) If you are at all interested in expanding your color theory knowledge base, let me know. It would please me greatly to share my knowledge with you. I heard you say in one video that you've never been to school for art. Do you have any training at all , or are you strictly self taught? You really sound like (and look like) you've had some real training, so I'm just curious. :D I really do look forward to hearing back from you, so I hope you're quick!
I have no training for art (other than a class in high school). I would love anything additional you have in way of thoughts around Color Theory, it's always something I want to learn more about.
I can't not notice that on the minis you demonstrated first, there ARE two main colors - the second one being gold = yellow-orange, so it's in fact that's the very orange/blue complementary color scheme that you say is the rarest. And the gold is not insignificant, it really works to contrast with the blue; if the minis were all shades of blue, they would make for a totally different perception.
You're absolutely correct. I actually talk about that a great deal (gold's true color being yellow and how that figures into schemes) in some later videos.
Orange and blue complimentary was probably picked because it's the typical Hollywood colour grade combo. Skintone vs blue background makes the people stand out.
Oh yes, there was like 10 years of Movie posters (and honestly, it's still happening with some to this day) that are just Orange (skin tone and some light) and teal. It was EVERYWHERE
That Phoenix. Christ Vince I knew you were good but I didn’t know you were a chaos god! Want me to start sacrificing paint to you? You want the blue right?
how can such a great and important video only have 513 likes? it's a shame. TY Vince, u really helped me with that! But the link to your first video doesn't work any more :( would love to see this video.
Small correction, the primary colours for emissive light are red green and blue, and thus in Four colour TVs the fourth colour is usually actually yellow. Fun fact, each pixel in a tv or lcd/led monitor is usually a square of red, blue, and two green lights, because the human eye is more perceptive of variation in green (and it has to be 4, cause it's digital). The primary colours for reflected light, ie. Paint and tables and fabrics etc, are magenta, cyan and yellow. This is part of the reason you never black mixing the right amount of red, yellow and blue paints. As an aside, the RGB colorspace of monitors and the CMYK spaces of print media is why you can never trust an online paint chart!
Having watched whole video now, I want to add that the concept of Value might help your explanation. Shades and tints are really just variations on the them of value. Value is how light or dark a color is. When you do your zenithal highlights and underpainting, you are creating contrasting values, which you then saturate with glazes. It's also why you can ignore metallics when you talk about color schemes, but gold is problematic. In fact copper, brass, bronze etc will all also be problematic, because they contain some element of hue, whereas pure steels and silvers tend to be almost entirely value. Same argument for why you can largely ignore greys, whites and blacks when talking about color schemes. If you ever do another one of these, a useful analogy might be that hue is your flat base color, or block color, saturation is how washed out and grey your color is, built up by glazes, and value is your lights and darks, as seen in your underpainting.
Good notes all around. I purposefully kept away from value to match it closer to what people might see on the paint bottles as they are probably more familiar with those terms (i.e. they see a thing on the paint that says 'shade' or people talk about shading the model) so I tried to keep it to those terms but of course you are correct, it's all the value of the white/grey/black with the actual hue.
Interesting fact : In the human eye; Yellow has the highest number of receptors, that is why high-vis jackets all have a yellow in them. The reflective material in them stimulates the idea of movement further drawing attention to it. Red actually has the lowest receptors but when red is darkened the brain makes up what it thinks the colour will be. This visual hallucination can also simulate movement. I think that red is the colour of desire, passion and anger because it leaves us wanting.
You are almost correct. Except humans don't have yellow colour receptors, they have red, green and blue colour receptors (this is why red and green and blue are the primary colours of light) the green and red receptors have a widely overlapping area of colour reception though, and therefore yellow light triggers both your red and green receptors), we actually have more green colour receptors by number than either red or blue, this is because the sun's dominant frequency is green. Which is why when dealing with monochromatic light green is often picked (i.e. nightvision goggles) for resolution purposes. However you are correct, that if you don't care about resolution and just want something to be noticed then yellow is the best colour because it triggers both red and green receptors.
Very intersting. Bright colours are also useful on ugly models make the parts that don't look awful brighter (I converted an old metal plague bearer for a herald, bright green and yellow sludge on the base). I'm a student, so I have to work with what I can get sometimes.
+Erasmus Burger It's a good point, you can use brighter colors to draw the eye where you want and away from the more questionable parts of the model ;)
Yep, so blue has one of the strongest wavelengths and orange is it's compliment with a high luminosity, so it's a great combination that is just naturally eye catching.
@@VinceVenturella I'm just getting started painting my first army of nighthaunt. Going with blue ghosty tails and red through orange and a tiny tiny bit of yellow for cloaks. Brand new to the hobby so hopefully I can learn a lot in the process. Fantastic video series my man. Thank you so much for making this information available in one place.
Fantastic. Love the idea of the Triangles. Question. Looking at painting a red dragon on a snow base. Is the snow consider blue or white. How to would you balance a warm color like that on a cool base?
Two thoughts. First, bring white up into the dragon (a few places of pure white, horns, very hot fire, wing tips, whatever. And bring some of the orange down into the snow (some reflection, fire reflecting over the snow, etc.) .
Hey Vince, sorry to bother you just had a question. I've received and used the ghost tints from Badger and I'm very happy with the results as per your stark zenithal tactic (I'm sure you had a different name for it). My question is regarding color theory and Arkhan, the Black. I'm using Reikenor's mount so it's not as big as the normal mount but I wanted to keep the scheme somewhat easy and use the blue, purple and teal scheme (a light teal being the color of my ghosts). My plan was to make the mount blue, Arkhan, the Black himself purple and his cape the teal color of the ghosts. But now that I've looked at this video again, it seems like the color percentages are out of whack given their proportionate representation of the entire model. Any ideas?
SO what you are describing is an analogous color scheme. It's fine, but you need to balance those colors, especially the teal, around the miniature. So you would want to make sure that if you had the cloak in that teal, that you spread the teal around (think of it like an outer circle around the miniature) and you should be fine. Also, try to mix up the purple and blue a little between the two where possible.
You show and use the RYB wheel, but mention purple(magenta) and green as complementary as in the RGB wheel. I mean, to me, RYB complementary still gives interesting contrast/highlight. But RGB complementary is SO strong (red and cyan for instance). I guess you can vary colors distance from each other on the wheel to deliberately control contrast and visual focus, so RYB vs RGB doesn't matter. Im surprised though that acclaimed miniature painters (you trovarion) never mention or use RGB wheel, why is that?
Honestly, I tend to float between them pretty freely, as long as you sort of stick within them for that project and act accordingly, you tend to get a homogenous picture.
That is how it looks, that is a straight picture from my camera phone of it sitting on my desk. it's actually hiding behind Tom over his right shoulder in a box in many recent Warhammer Weekly episodes, as I painted it for him. Hope the video was helpful. :)
When dealing with metallics you said they don't count. Would this apply also to copper or can I consider that a red-orange "color"? Is it similar to gold that you talked about?
A friend of mine told me the other day that copper would read more like brown instead of red or orange. He said that if you were doing NMM you'd use browns and that's why it would be brown, not orange or red. If its a brown than its a neutral tone and be ignore. What do you think?
Cold red is a pretty rare color to be used, because it effectively becomes magenta (which is fine), but Magenta can be either warm or cold, which is why it's such a good color. :)
I assume because it makes the recesses automatically dark. The colors are then far more difficult to get to a true color, which is why Zenithal highlighting just makes sense. Keep the shadows, and work with colors much easier.
As far as complimentary colors go, I see orange and blue everywhere in sci fi. So much so it's annoying. Guardians of the Galaxy being a prime example. Seriously, I almost hate to mention it Vince because once you look for it, you can't unsee it. It's to the point of being a cliche, like dumb teens going into buildings they shouldn't when there's a killer on the loose in horror movies, or a villain being a hero's father, or an average looking girl becoming stunningly beautiful at the end of an 80s movie, or a protagonist suffering from amnesia.
Sure, Orange and Teal were discovered to make human flesh look really good (look at movie posters, they basically all have it now) and yes, they are heavily used in movies, especially sci-fi movies. I see it all the time but it doesn't bother me as much, I like the colors. :)
Omg thank you, I have been looking for a better color wheel choice option so I am going to give this a thorough thrice over since I picked up that Battle for Vedros boxed starter set and have an army to paint ... might just have to go with a lost company and come up with a bizarre color scheme, that and for a few Reaper Bones figures I bought just to paint for fun. Been grabbing a bunch of that line just so that I can play around with pastels in elves and angels.
I ended up with 4 - but now I think I am going to need a bunch of Chaos Marine, some Adeptus Mechanicus and assorted bits from Secret Weapon and the like, since I am looking at the male anti paladin and seeing a scartarieye adepted chaoticous
Thanks for taking the time to make this, I really got a lot out of it and appreciate you publishing it.
+Stephen Thompson Thank you much sir, greatly appreciated.
Only got here in 2019 and this is still an amazing video. Sure, it doesn't cover every single angle at the topic but it's a whole lot more comprehensive than most of the other "here's a colour wheel" videos that masquerade as colour theory. Thanks for helping me think differently about my models and how colour affects them :) Also, I found this because you were in Tabletop Minions' Atom Smasher's 2019 Adepticon Ask the Pros video :D
Awesome, well happy to help as always and I am glad this was useful. Uncle Adam is a great guy and good friend, I was honored to take part in his vid. :)
I’ve learned more from your vids in the last two weeks than I have from the rest of the internet in the last two months. I love the content and your breakdowns and tutorials
Thank you, that means a great deal and I am always happy to help. :)
I always enjoy your videos. I always try to click "like" because I do want to help promote your channel. But this video is the only video where I have ever - in my life - liked, favorited, saved to watch later, AND downloaded as part of my premium subscription. I love this one so much, and I learned so much. Thank you for this!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Vince, your videos are always so insightful. This is especially helpful, picking up a brush for the first time in some time. Not sure how I came across your channel awhile back, but I'm glad I did!
+Fr0z0rz Thank you, that is very much appreciated. I am glad you did as well :)
Cool work Vince, got a complaint though, small one though cause I understand this topic is quite wide and it'd take ages to do it properly. I find that it's paramount for painters to integrate saturation into the way they're thinking. We tend to think in terms of dark and light colours (which is thinking in value or lightness), completely ignoring the saturation property of colours. So it's easy to assume the highlight for any dark green is an ultra intense, almost fluorescent green (see how GW highlights Dark Angels). That produces an effect so bizarre it's kind of like a neon light show (which is effectively just that, an example of saturation contrast). It's cool if you're specifically going for it, but it's not realistic at all. Another example would be how red armour or cloth is highlighted in bright orange, making the model look like it's on fire. An even better benefit of undestanding saturation is helping you understand why a lot of red acrylics out there (e.g. Mephiston Red) produce a very dull (desaturated) red and it then helps with finding ways to make them really intense by, say, mixing in some red ink (or, if you want to cheat, some satin/gloss varnish). If you ever do a second part to this video, I'd love to see saturation properly discussed as well as the different types of contrasts, i.e. hue contrast, value contrast, saturation contrast and yes, even the rarely talked about reflectivity contrast (gloss or metallics vs matte surfaces).
It's a good point for sure, and something that would definitely be a good topic to dive into for a part 2. I will put it on the list for when I circle back to this in the future.
Side note, the Red/Orange thing drives me bonkers ;)
I'm so late to this video but that also stuck out to me. I hope you've since revised your thinking on saturation Vince, it's useful across mediums and right up there with tint and shade - a lot of times it's not described in a way that resonates, but I'll attempt to do so here: saturation is the relative level of pure "color" present vs. neutral (gray, black or white, whatever corresponds to the value of the color). So VMC flat red is like 100% saturation, but say your standard flesh tone is a very desaturated orange. Saturation is the very edge of the color wheel, desaturated colors are moving towards the center. Great video!
What should be used to highlight red? Pinks? I'm not really crazy about going pink on reds
@@LoftOfTheUniverse Maybe a more tinted red?
@@LoftOfTheUniverse I've seen red tinted up with a pale skin color to great effect
That Phoenix Fire Bird is jawdroppingly beautyful. Wow! Just WOW!
Thank you, that one was fun for sure.
Another lesson I wish was presented this way when I was in school. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, Vince.
My pleasure!
Thank you so much for this, I was really struggling making something that's not cringe inducingly bad. Especially the triangles, the small tip to try and think of things that we see in the real world helped, and having two main colours with 1 sparingly used.
Always happy to help. :)
Great tutorial. I agree with your recommendation on limiting your pallet color choices to tie balance and composition together. The only other comment would be to reinforce the notion of creating contrasts which you imply between adjacent elements of a figure using variations in tones, shades and tints. The monochromatic pallet would be an example of achieving this separation.....using only one color and creating contrast by manipulating tints and shades against each other. Never be committed...if something is not working try manipulating shade or tint first or another color altogether if need be. Sometimes getting it right can even comes by accident. Don't forget to leverage gloss, satin and flat reflectance.
As cooky as it may sound I sometimes squint, blurring my vision to get a more abstract sense of how color balance and composition might be coming along. Viewing after strong drink might appeal to some as an alternate option.
Great job as well Tom!
+Jeffery Schutt Totally agreed. I find it very fun and challenging to paint a figure in a monochormatic fashion but still have it be visually interesing, it's one of the reasons I love that daemon prince so much. Thanks as always for watching and for the great insights.
+Vince Venturella ....l thought commenting that managing saturation through the use of fluorescents would have been a bit over the top.
Great stuff. Very useful, and very much appreciated as it’s challenging to find good discussions on how to compose a colour scheme
Thank you, glad it was helpful. :)
Thanks for this video. Very good points on taking a miniature specific approach.
Among my fine art books collections I recommend the following title, please note that they are NOT miniatures oriented:
- A visual Guide to classical art Theory, by Eric Mantle. Each page address a speciifc rule or concept with diagrams and a little accompanying text.
The diagrams first makes for an easy read in contrast to text heavy books. The caveats is that it focus on theory, it doesn't pretend anything else anyway.
In effect it hammers the fondamental concepts, which can be wieved both as pros and cons. However in the long run it pays to have a good run of the fundamental. In particular having in a part of yor mind the 3 color "wheel" solid helps understand the basic of color mixing.
- Color and Light, by James Gurney, this one is more about translating to actual painting, and as the title suggest also addresses the issue of light in addition to color. The author gives many hints and tips for mixing and using color to create a specific mood. Although he mostly use oils on canvas the advices are also useful for miniatures, especially if you are working on an more artistic approach rather than chain painting armies. There are many inspiring examples of the author own works, both from real life or from is Dinotopia series. It give many ideas for colors selections and examples to use limited palette or to use various hues to enrich a specific tone.
Yes, since I made this, I read Colour and Light, absolutely wonderful.
Fantastic vid! I’ve seen a lot about the color wheel and different combinations, but the color balancing part was amazingly insightful.
Excellent, happy to help as always. :)
Great Video! I'd love to see much theory from you. YT is full of videos where you can watch someone painting something. But most tutorials are lacking proper theory in addition to the techniques shown.
Thanks for putting this great stuff online!
Thank you, it's definitely important to me, as understanding that theory can help you to experiment and discover new stuff on your own. I will add more to the list and see what I can do.
Very informative discussion of color theory and how it relates to minis. I will definitely be more conscious of why certain colors work better in certain areas and not others.
I play orks (my favorite of many armies) and find that it also can be fun to purposely "break the rules" in order to emphasize a certain detail.
+Dominic Fawver As with all rules, they are really more of guidelines ;) Orks are a great example, as their skin tone is not neutral (they are probably green of some variety), you automatically have color choices right from the get go. This is one of the things that can make them challenging, but also very rewarding when done well.
Incredible vid, really helps me dig into this "art" form from a technical standpoint. Thank you!
Thank you, I have some later videos where I am deep diving into individual colors, those might also be useful to you. - czcams.com/video/QN8tB4MFhBs/video.html
That bretonnian looking guy boggled my mind because I didn’t see any purple on him except for behind his shoulders
another great video mate :) really nailed what i think is one of the most important aspect's of painting a model, and what many people have trouble with .
+plastic sturgeon It's definitely tricky and something that is easy to go wrong on. I hope this helps people think about their colors. Thanks for watching and commenting as always.
Learning colour theory, or al least the basics is always useful for our hobby, nice share matey
+IDICBeer Thank you sir, it's something I often see people go wrong with, so I hope this helps.
Hi there Vince!
I just found your channel!
I have to say I think your videos are some of the most helpful to be found anywhere on the internet.
I realize I'm very late to the party, but I'd like to chime in here.
I have a BFA ( Bachelor of Fine Arts) in painting. I'm not new to painting, only to painting miniatures. I had to study color theory for my degree. I was very fortunate that my instructor was a VERY VERY good professional airbrush artist. His approach to color theory was unique and quite in depth. I have not seen his ideas addressed ANYWHERE online. (Of course, it's not beginning color theory. It's quite advanced.)
If you are at all interested in expanding your color theory knowledge base, let me know. It would please me greatly to share my knowledge with you.
I heard you say in one video that you've never been to school for art. Do you have any training at all , or are you strictly self taught? You really sound like (and look like) you've had some real training, so I'm just curious. :D
I really do look forward to hearing back from you, so I hope you're quick!
I have no training for art (other than a class in high school). I would love anything additional you have in way of thoughts around Color Theory, it's always something I want to learn more about.
Probably the easiest way is to shoot me an email (warhammerweeklyquestions@gmail.com) - happy to chat through email. :)
I can't not notice that on the minis you demonstrated first, there ARE two main colors - the second one being gold = yellow-orange, so it's in fact that's the very orange/blue complementary color scheme that you say is the rarest. And the gold is not insignificant, it really works to contrast with the blue; if the minis were all shades of blue, they would make for a totally different perception.
You're absolutely correct. I actually talk about that a great deal (gold's true color being yellow and how that figures into schemes) in some later videos.
Orange and blue complimentary was probably picked because it's the typical Hollywood colour grade combo. Skintone vs blue background makes the people stand out.
Oh yes, there was like 10 years of Movie posters (and honestly, it's still happening with some to this day) that are just Orange (skin tone and some light) and teal. It was EVERYWHERE
That Phoenix. Christ Vince I knew you were good but I didn’t know you were a chaos god! Want me to start sacrificing paint to you? You want the blue right?
No sacrifices necessary, always happy to help. :)
Vince we all know that you know the dress is from a Betsey Johnson collection and that's fine. Inspiration and knowledge can be found everywhere.
+idontknow46 Oh no - they're onto me! ;)
Great video.
how can such a great and important video only have 513 likes? it's a shame.
TY Vince, u really helped me with that! But the link to your first video doesn't work any more :( would love to see this video.
Well thank you, I am deeply appreciate it was helpful and always happy to answer any questions. :)
Small correction, the primary colours for emissive light are red green and blue, and thus in Four colour TVs the fourth colour is usually actually yellow. Fun fact, each pixel in a tv or lcd/led monitor is usually a square of red, blue, and two green lights, because the human eye is more perceptive of variation in green (and it has to be 4, cause it's digital).
The primary colours for reflected light, ie. Paint and tables and fabrics etc, are magenta, cyan and yellow. This is part of the reason you never black mixing the right amount of red, yellow and blue paints.
As an aside, the RGB colorspace of monitors and the CMYK spaces of print media is why you can never trust an online paint chart!
Having watched whole video now, I want to add that the concept of Value might help your explanation. Shades and tints are really just variations on the them of value. Value is how light or dark a color is. When you do your zenithal highlights and underpainting, you are creating contrasting values, which you then saturate with glazes. It's also why you can ignore metallics when you talk about color schemes, but gold is problematic. In fact copper, brass, bronze etc will all also be problematic, because they contain some element of hue, whereas pure steels and silvers tend to be almost entirely value. Same argument for why you can largely ignore greys, whites and blacks when talking about color schemes.
If you ever do another one of these, a useful analogy might be that hue is your flat base color, or block color, saturation is how washed out and grey your color is, built up by glazes, and value is your lights and darks, as seen in your underpainting.
Good notes all around. I purposefully kept away from value to match it closer to what people might see on the paint bottles as they are probably more familiar with those terms (i.e. they see a thing on the paint that says 'shade' or people talk about shading the model) so I tried to keep it to those terms but of course you are correct, it's all the value of the white/grey/black with the actual hue.
Interesting fact : In the human eye; Yellow has the highest number of receptors, that is why high-vis jackets all have a yellow in them. The reflective material in them stimulates the idea of movement further drawing attention to it. Red actually has the lowest receptors but when red is darkened the brain makes up what it thinks the colour will be. This visual hallucination can also simulate movement.
I think that red is the colour of desire, passion and anger because it leaves us wanting.
+Daniel Chalmers Very cool, I had no idea, but that makes total sense. Thanks for watching and sharing some awesome facts.
I am a never ending repository of useless facts.
You are almost correct. Except humans don't have yellow colour receptors, they have red, green and blue colour receptors (this is why red and green and blue are the primary colours of light) the green and red receptors have a widely overlapping area of colour reception though, and therefore yellow light triggers both your red and green receptors), we actually have more green colour receptors by number than either red or blue, this is because the sun's dominant frequency is green. Which is why when dealing with monochromatic light green is often picked (i.e. nightvision goggles) for resolution purposes. However you are correct, that if you don't care about resolution and just want something to be noticed then yellow is the best colour because it triggers both red and green receptors.
O M G !!!
THAT Phoenix!!!
Major Wowww right there!!
Thank you, it was fun to paint for sure. :)
Very intersting. Bright colours are also useful on ugly models make the parts that don't look awful brighter (I converted an old metal plague bearer for a herald, bright green and yellow sludge on the base). I'm a student, so I have to work with what I can get sometimes.
+Erasmus Burger It's a good point, you can use brighter colors to draw the eye where you want and away from the more questionable parts of the model ;)
Blorange is used soooo much! To me it seems naturally appealing much like fire does, because if we use sky blue we get sunset colours.
Yep, so blue has one of the strongest wavelengths and orange is it's compliment with a high luminosity, so it's a great combination that is just naturally eye catching.
@@VinceVenturella I'm just getting started painting my first army of nighthaunt. Going with blue ghosty tails and red through orange and a tiny tiny bit of yellow for cloaks. Brand new to the hobby so hopefully I can learn a lot in the process. Fantastic video series my man. Thank you so much for making this information available in one place.
(Is not a master even tho is literally a professional painter) thank you for the video I loved your work in crystal brush this last year
Thank you, that is very much appreciated and I am always happy to help. :)
Fantastic. Love the idea of the Triangles. Question. Looking at painting a red dragon on a snow base. Is the snow consider blue or white. How to would you balance a warm color like that on a cool base?
Two thoughts. First, bring white up into the dragon (a few places of pure white, horns, very hot fire, wing tips, whatever. And bring some of the orange down into the snow (some reflection, fire reflecting over the snow, etc.) .
Thank you
You're welcome
Hey Vince, sorry to bother you just had a question. I've received and used the ghost tints from Badger and I'm very happy with the results as per your stark zenithal tactic (I'm sure you had a different name for it). My question is regarding color theory and Arkhan, the Black. I'm using Reikenor's mount so it's not as big as the normal mount but I wanted to keep the scheme somewhat easy and use the blue, purple and teal scheme (a light teal being the color of my ghosts). My plan was to make the mount blue, Arkhan, the Black himself purple and his cape the teal color of the ghosts. But now that I've looked at this video again, it seems like the color percentages are out of whack given their proportionate representation of the entire model. Any ideas?
SO what you are describing is an analogous color scheme. It's fine, but you need to balance those colors, especially the teal, around the miniature. So you would want to make sure that if you had the cloak in that teal, that you spread the teal around (think of it like an outer circle around the miniature) and you should be fine. Also, try to mix up the purple and blue a little between the two where possible.
Vince Venturella ok perfect. Perhaps I’ll use the base as you have.
Excellent
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
You show and use the RYB wheel, but mention purple(magenta) and green as complementary as in the RGB wheel. I mean, to me, RYB complementary still gives interesting contrast/highlight. But RGB complementary is SO strong (red and cyan for instance). I guess you can vary colors distance from each other on the wheel to deliberately control contrast and visual focus, so RYB vs RGB doesn't matter. Im surprised though that acclaimed miniature painters (you trovarion) never mention or use RGB wheel, why is that?
Honestly, I tend to float between them pretty freely, as long as you sort of stick within them for that project and act accordingly, you tend to get a homogenous picture.
wow the fire Phönix is the best fire effect i have ever seen, is the Picture taken with an photo effect or does it look like that in real?
That is how it looks, that is a straight picture from my camera phone of it sitting on my desk. it's actually hiding behind Tom over his right shoulder in a box in many recent Warhammer Weekly episodes, as I painted it for him. Hope the video was helpful. :)
You the goat
Thanks!
Do you have a link for the color scheme choices slide? It would be nice to save on my Kindle
When dealing with metallics you said they don't count. Would this apply also to copper or can I consider that a red-orange "color"? Is it similar to gold that you talked about?
Yes, steel is generally Grey/white and so doesn't count. Gold is yellow and rich copper would read as red or orange. You have it exactly.
A friend of mine told me the other day that copper would read more like brown instead of red or orange. He said that if you were doing NMM you'd use browns and that's why it would be brown, not orange or red. If its a brown than its a neutral tone and be ignore. What do you think?
Hmm interesting question I wonder how difficult it is to paint cold red
Cold red is a pretty rare color to be used, because it effectively becomes magenta (which is fine), but Magenta can be either warm or cold, which is why it's such a good color. :)
Hello! Thanks for the tips! Can you tell what miniature is that one on the thumpnail?
It's actually a kitbashed miniature of many different minis (base is a stormcast, plus many other kits made to be my Celetant Prime).
@@VinceVenturella Whatever it is, it s beautiful! Good job! He looks like an Archangel Super Sayan, Sigmar,Thor, and Zeus combination 🤣
I know this has been asked ad answered, but why do people prime with black? For the life of me I can't figure it out...
I assume because it makes the recesses automatically dark. The colors are then far more difficult to get to a true color, which is why Zenithal highlighting just makes sense. Keep the shadows, and work with colors much easier.
@@VinceVenturella thanks. The whole black primer just goes against everything I learned building military model kits. It made me crazy...
As far as complimentary colors go, I see orange and blue everywhere in sci fi. So much so it's annoying. Guardians of the Galaxy being a prime example. Seriously, I almost hate to mention it Vince because once you look for it, you can't unsee it. It's to the point of being a cliche, like dumb teens going into buildings they shouldn't when there's a killer on the loose in horror movies, or a villain being a hero's father, or an average looking girl becoming stunningly beautiful at the end of an 80s movie, or a protagonist suffering from amnesia.
Sure, Orange and Teal were discovered to make human flesh look really good (look at movie posters, they basically all have it now) and yes, they are heavily used in movies, especially sci-fi movies. I see it all the time but it doesn't bother me as much, I like the colors. :)
Do you have a link for the color scheme choices slide? It would be nice to save on my Kindle
It's a long link, but here is the original image - www.signsforsandiego.com/Portals/272000/images/Color-Schemes1.gif
Omg thank you, I have been looking for a better color wheel choice option so I am going to give this a thorough thrice over since I picked up that Battle for Vedros boxed starter set and have an army to paint ... might just have to go with a lost company and come up with a bizarre color scheme, that and for a few Reaper Bones figures I bought just to paint for fun. Been grabbing a bunch of that line just so that I can play around with pastels in elves and angels.
Glad to help, bones are great for experimentation, I myself have done the same thing, if you screw it up, it's like $2, which isn't a bad deal ;)
I ended up with 4 - but now I think I am going to need a bunch of Chaos Marine, some Adeptus Mechanicus and assorted bits from Secret Weapon and the like, since I am looking at the male anti paladin and seeing a scartarieye adepted chaoticous