How To: Convert a Ceramics Kiln into Digital Heat Treating Oven - PID Controller
Vložit
- čas přidán 10. 09. 2019
- I took an old ceramics kiln and converted it to run on a PID controller. The process is simple once you understand that this is essentially a really large oven. The basic components are the same, it can just achieve much higher temperatures.
As with anything involving high voltage. If you are not a qualified electrician I cannot advise you take this on. High voltage is dangerous and should be handled only by those who understand it.
If you are interested in buying the parts to make this happen, head over to my website, there is a complete list and more details with links on my project page:
amzn.to/3oVJjYG - Jak na to + styl
Best walk-through on youtube. Actually showing the wiring and parts. Many thanks to you!!
🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
@@HouseMadeUS A quick question if I may? If I don't have the split-switches on my oven, I don't need the solid-core wire, right? Any problem with just using the silicone-wire?
thank you for doing the whole "whiteboard" layout on wiring the SSR and PID. thats exactly what I was looking around on youtube for....most of these howtos dont go into what goes where on the wiring ... really very helpful! cheers!
Glad it helped! Visual learning is where it’s at! Thanks for writing in to let me know. 👊🏻
A. THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!! Literally the only video on CZcams about doing this this the clean proper way!!!❤️❤️❤️
B. The mixing bowl was awesome 😂
I did a version of this for my daughter's kiln. Everything went as expected, much better than the old kilnsitter. At first run the relays overheated and stayed on without cycling at high temp, luckily nothing was harmed. I left the door to the controls open the second time and everything works perfect. Thanks for sharing your ideas on this video it is appreciated.
Thank you for making this video!!! I just purchased an old Paragon kiln that's similar to yours for $75 and need to add the PID and SSR's. I had no idea of how to do it until I watched your video. Thank you!!!
You’re welcome. Happy to help! 🤩
Very cool. I liked the plywood layout idea. Made for a very clear presentation of what goes where and why.
Hey thanks. It’s not a super easy one to explain so this just made sense to me. Glad you liked the video.
And here I am in 2021 thinking "man, that plywood is the most expensive part of the build"
This is as "how to" as it gets! Thank you Brian for always putting out such quality content
Thanks man! ⚡️⚡️⚡️
I'm picking up a old Duncan this weekend and this is exactly the video I was looking for.
Awesome. Enjoy. 👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻
Just finished up my kiln into a HT oven, ty for the video and part's list on Amazon. Made life easy.
Watched a guy on youtube tear apart one of those inkbird 40 amp SSR's and he said it was really much less capable then 40 amps something like 16 amps. I built a 120 volt controller with the inkbird PID and SSR and I must say the accuracy of the box is amazing. I am getting +/- .3 degree f accuracy in a cheap toaster oven. Took me awhile to really understand the pid and get the settings right to get it so dialed in. I keep looking for a substitute for the cheap Chinese SSR with the same footprint, the SSR is what usually melts and burns up when these control boxes fail. I bought a old Duncan kiln today so I will wire up another PID box for it. Thanks for sharing this video it will be a great help.
Oh man...i've been wanting a video like this so i can wire up my wife kiln [the same as yours actually just with the the third element option] to a PID for more accurate/programmable control instead of the old kiln sitter......awesome...i'm stocked...thanks so much for taking the time!!
Glad I could help - Cheers from Florida
You inspired me. I made several improvements. First, your electrical box will get very hot because it is mounted directly to the kiln. I mounted mine with an aluminum heat shield and double air space between the box and the kiln and also added a small fan. I added a timer to shut down the unit after the desired soak time. I got rid of all the old hardware on the kiln control and added riveted plates under the cutouts in the housing. I removed one bus bar and added switches to each bank of elements to allow high (100%) or low (50%) operation of each bank. I also used three separate SCR's after the controller so that I can select which banks are in use and to reduce the current in each SCR. Although the SCR's are rated for 40 amps, I feel more comfortable with only 12 amps per SCR. My wife is an amateur potter and she is delighted. I can also use the kiln for heat treatment of steel.
EMT Conduit for the raceway between the two boxes instead of flex is a indication of quality electrical work, I like it. Reminds me of my IBEW apprenticeship contest exam over 40 years ago.
Thank you sir!!
Great work. I'm not a sparky but can do most of the preliminary work and get my mate to final test. I'm also going to put a safety cut out switch on the door of my kiln.
Thanks. This is exactly what was looking to do for my kiln/heat treating/smelting furnace.
This guy is a legit electrician.
Mixing bowl was funny!!!!! I have a similar kiln ready to do this also. I have the temp controllers and will have at it.
Very insightful presentation.....👍
Thank you. Very nice demonstration.
Thanks Luis.
I have the same kiln. This will be a great project to follow.
Glad it could inspire!
Do you think it’s possible to create a disconnect for this box? What kind of receptacle might one consider?
You should use high temp wire that is insulated with fiber glass. Regular romex insulation can melt and short on the kiln body.
About to do the same for fusing telescope glass. Thanks for the video!!
⚡️⚡️⚡️Thank you!! ⚡️⚡️⚡️
Genial tu video, lo intentaré en mi horno cerámico, espero quede bien. Saludos.
If you add a cooling fan and some thermal paste to this recipe, you probably have perfection.
Yeah definitely. I added that in my later revisions
I just picked one up , I'm really glad , no more forge heat treats. Hehe thx bro 4 making the way , peace
Awesome man!!
Ive been waiting on a quality how to for this conversion for some time. Many things.
*thanks
You’re very welcome. Mine is still running strong. I use it all the time. 👍🏻
thanks very much bro that video helped me alot figure out the wiring im just waiting on the rest of my bricks so i can make my heat treat oven well done also just liked and subbed thanks again Mark i dont know why but the electrical is intimidating but in reaility its not that hard when you research it ,but you made it alot easier to understand
That was the goal when I set out to do this. Still use this kiln all the time. Cheers from Florida.
Extremely clean work sir! Thanks for sharing this. How long did it take you to get up to temp? Seems like a big guy to heat up.
Thanks man! Takes about 40 minutes. Which is probably really long considering. Although I have no gram of reference. It’s a trade off since I want to powder coat as well. So I can multi task it
@@HouseMadeUS Hell that's not too bad really. Especially if you're doing batches. Good stuff man Good stuff.
Great build man!! I plan on doing the same to my cress firemate here within the next month! I’m so tired of the kiln sitter and not being able to set a specific temperature and ramp time.. Have you had any trouble with heat issues inside your control box?
On mine, I ended up putting a switch between the PID & the SSR, that way I can cut off the elements any time need to(but I only have the 1 element). It took me a minute to figure out why you were drilling the holes in the top... Nice touch... Can't wait to see some heat treating... take it easy...
+Dave Evader Knives - yeah I think I may do that. I can use the same switch I used for the power? Or do I need something more robust? I guess it’s DC so it’s not too bad. I didn’t know you had your own kiln. Maybe I missed it. Also did you see I put you as one of my featured channels?? 😎
@@HouseMadeUS Same kind of switch, remember the PID is only low voltage telling the SSR to turn on & off... I even hooked it up to a light, so I could close the box & know when the SSR is on... No I didn't, thanks, really appreciate that... I'll have to return the favor...
Are the elements supposed to have voltage when the switch is off? Mine do for some reason. I can't find a mistake in my wiring though.
@@treywright63 well, the whole purpose of a switch is to cut power(or switch power in some cases). You might have a bad switch. disconnect the elements, run some wires from the output. If nothing changes when you switch it, the switch is bad
8:27 was awesome!
I love the OSHA approved flippy floppies!👍
Haaaaa! I had someone unsub because I wore flips. Hey I live in Florida which is basically one big beach. Lol
Excellent!!
Hey fellow Floridian; just finished the 2x72 gen4 grinder and am on to my next issue, precision heat treating and forge build… And look who I find executing the same idea I had, Mr House. Another solid build sir.
I found a similar kiln on FB marketplace for 100, and thought if I can precision control this thing I can do a lot of production at a fraction of the cost of a smaller either new or dyi oven. Lol, honestly was hoping it would be a touch more simple and affordable, wishful thinking does not make for quality projects though does it…
You can buy controllers directly from Barlett I think which makes the oven much more usable. The Auber PID is a pain to program. I agree.
An informative video with lots of good ideas. I was working on converting a kiln to PID a few minutes ago before I came in to do some CZcams research.
My preference is to have the a relay break both sides of the power to the element as in the U.S. both legs of 240v are hot but 180 degrees out of phase with each other. (i.e., each is 120 volts to ground but 240 volts when measured across them.) With only a single pole relay, one side of the element is always hot when the switch is on. Although I believe it can be done with an SSR on each leg of the incoming power, I'm using a 240v DPST contactor (relay) for my conversion. If you use a contactor, you have to get a PID designed for use with the relay rather than one for SSRs. If you want to control two 240v sections of the element, use two contactors, one for each element. A SPST switch between the PID and each contactor will allow you to select which element you want to heat and also allow you to ensure the elements don't get power when you just want to program the PID. The switch between the PID and contactor can be relatively low current.
One suggestion if you are using SSRs. Heat sink compound between the SSR and heat sink with help dissipate the heat. I fact, I also use it between the heat sink and metal enclosure as that my conduct slightly more heat away.
On an earlier PID controlled kiln conversion that I did my SSR was still getting hot. I found a low cost fan that accepted a wide range of voltages to ventilate the enclosure. Pull air in one hole, out another. (i.e., don't use an enclosed box with the fan just stirring up the air inside of the box.)
I have the chance to get an older kiln like this for a good price. I only want it for tempering though. Still I’d like to have an accurate reading if only for 400F or so. Thanks for the clear details👍👊
Yeah man, these work great for heat treat also. 1550 in one hour. 👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻
Some of the items you listed are sold out. The thermocouple mainly. There isn't much specific info as far as how do I choose the length and thickness of thermocouple I need? My kiln is a bit different than yours so I'm not sure where I'm going to put my thermocouple either. Do I need some sort of shielding for it? Or just drill a hole and stick it in? It is the type of kiln that uses Pyro metric cones so it doesn't have a thermocouple already in it. Any help would be awesome!
Great video! But, I have a question. My kiln has 3 layers and 3 plugins to the control panel. What would be the difference in wiring/ parts needed? Thanks
Did you measure the temp inside your electronics box? Also, what were your initial PID settings? Thanks a bunch. Good video!
Do you have to leave the control knobs from the original panel in tact and use them for wiring in the wires from the ssr’s and pid or can they be run directly to the wires from the kiln?
Hello. I have an old pottery kiln that works with kiln sitter cones. This convertion works for to keep using the kiln for pottery? Thanks
Would you have the time to talk with me about the relays and or if the setup will run on one? I am pulling 15 amp top and bottom wired like your box..ive run it up to 500deg a few times but the last time bottom relay melted and cought fire..at 200deg..i took thermal readings bottom relay was a good 75 deg hotter than the top i had a feeling of doom..yep and my relay box is mounted away from the side of the kiln 5 inches..any help would be great thanks
Cam this be 110v? If so do you use one relay or one relay is power one neutral for 110?
What gauge are the yellow and green wire?
im building a heat treat oven that will run off of 240 my question is how do i connect the 2 elements? in series or in parralell and whats the difference between the 2 thanks hope you can help
This may sound dumb but I watch a guys channel Blacktail studio he builds Giant wood tables. He does this thing where for a small charge he consults with you on a project over zoom. Do you do anything similar? He only does a couple a week so he is not overwhelmed but was looking for something like that.
Hey. AWESOME video as everyone agrees. Problem is supply list link gives me a 404 ( not found). Just watched close and wrote all I saw. Thanks guy for this and the old programming lesson. I SERIOUSLY appreciate it. Thanks again.
Got that link repaired: housemade.us/pages/kiln-conversion-supply-list
Thanks. Goina "Get to it" now and see if I can pull this off. I REALLY have to find one of those magic bowls to make my soldering and heat shrink connectors! Where'd you find it?
My dads got one of these old kilns sittting in the garage ...I’m doing this
On your amazon list you have 2 PID controllers, the AUBER one in the video and another MYPIN one. I only need one of these for this conversion correct. I am converting the identical kiln.
Correct. I put two different ones up as options.
Very cool video, can I wire it directly to the heating element and bypass the 2 switches....thanks
Yes, you sure can.
I have passed up a kiln like this one to many times frick. Gonna be on the look out cause that little paragon one I picked up is not big enough for much of anything.
Yeah man. The conversion is not too bad. We use this one for bigger projects now
Your video is best one on this subject and very helpful. I have a technical question, why wire the SSRs in series? Wouldn't it be better to divide up the SSR loads to the two element sets. This way the current is divided and prolongs the SSRs' life!
Thank you so much I appreciate that, the SSRs are only wired in series on the DC side which means they are triggered at the same time. However on the AC side that go to the coil those are independent of each other. So this is the best of both worlds. Thanks again.
Hi I love the video but i think the previous commenter is right. You did wire the SSR in series on the AC side (one switching the black wire and one for the white). In a closed circuit, they are in series, and share the same load. On the DC side, the red wire of one pole of the SSR goes to that same pole on the other SSR, and same for the black wire. This is the definition of a parallel wiring. Thanks for the video I am contemplating doing the same and you build is concise and simple. And thank you for the editing, a breeze to watch. Cheers.
Yes. I concur. You're not splitting the power across the SSRs. @jakobhalskov does the same thing in his Kiln retrofit video and I was super confused what purpose this served (other than safety)? @steverowland1898's got it right with his comment above. These SSRs are cheap and I've had them fail short with my Kilns in the past. It's way better to undersize them by splitting the current across SSRs. Military and Aerospace usually undersize by a factor of 3 (i.e. size up for 3x the amount of current you're going to be drawing).
To do this you would hook up the high side from the outlet to each SSR AC input (i.e. pin 1of the Inkbird SSR). The other end of the SSR switch (pin 2) hooks up to one heating element. The second SSR pin 2 output goes to the other element. The return from the outlet just hooks up to the other side of the heating elements (tied together). You'll notice that this is the topology that Cress uses for their Kiln Sitters as well (example: cressmfg.wpenginepowered.com/wp-content/uploads/B18H-240-VAC-1.pdf).
See this video for a more detailed diagram on how to hook this all up: czcams.com/video/mt4pxbG2_YQ/video.html.
Also, feel free to call me out if I got it wrong...
Great video! I am doing the exact same conversion. That being said, I measured the resistance of both my coils. The first coil read 5040 ohms (21 ~ 23 amps), second coil read 4400 ohms (18~ 20 amps). If ran in series, this would draw 39~43 amps total. I’m wondering if the original cone circuit alternated the two different coils (since it’s only rated a 24 amp circuit) Have you experienced any issue with breakers or wires getting too hot?
I might be completely wrong with my calculations...
I've been mixing my wires for 3 hours now and they are still not done. Do I need to compensate for sea level?
😂😂😂😂
Awesome video! just a quick question could this be wired to 120v instead of 220?
Most kilns are going to be 220. I would think there are 110 versions out there but you would lose significant efficiency.
Dude, Not fare when you make it look easy and its daunting for the rest of us.. Good Video I want to try it but Ima skeard.
You can do it! Reach out if you need help. Cheers! ⚡️⚡️⚡️
So kick ass..I think I hate you a little now..lol. J/K Great job as usual Brian!
Its getting HOT down here in Naples Scott! Haha! Don't hate... :)
I see low voltage wire in the video that wasn't on the list. Can you recommend what to buy?
Just came across this today... Have a kiln in storage that I would love to do this to. It appears your project page is no longer online.... Anyway to get a Part Number for the Relays and the PID?
Just got the page back up with the links to the supplies: housemade.us/pages/kiln-conversion-supply-list
Nice video. I have a very similar kiln. Wall thickness is about 3 inches, as I think your’s is also. How long is your thermocouple? How far does it reach into the kiln? Is it working well? Thanks much.
Hi Tom, I think the TC is about 8" long or so (the probe part) but the wire is 6 feet. I have it about 1" into the kiln and do readings from top to bottom with another independent device. There is about a 10-30 degree difference from the top to bottom which isn't too bad.
@@HouseMadeUS I think the usual recommendation from the kiln manufactures is 1.5 inch.
If I follow this design, but have a 4 wire 240v power source, where do I connect the neutral?
So if I wanted to eliminate my switches I would just wire the 10 gauge wires directly to the coils?
Loved your video, thanks for sharing....I had a question when your wiring the 2 switches in the cover for the heating coils i noticed you had the red and black wire that go to the heating coils on the top and bottom switch, then later in the video when you hooking the wires up to the coils you show red red wire on the top switch and black black on the bottom....which is correct...I hope I'm explaining this correctly...lol...thank you for any help.
I have an econo kiln with 3 zones, will I need to buy 3 of thos relays?
Yes, three total. 👍🏻
Is there any reason you put the white wires (instead of the black) on the SSR with the main 120v black line?
Just the color of the wire, no reason in particular.
Very cool. What's the max temp you can reach and hold on this unit. I want to get into stainless a d the steel I'm looking at requires a temp of 1900 for a soak. Thanks in advance
Hi Phillip, I max out at around 2300 degrees on this beast. Definitely can do stainless. It would take about 2 hours to get to temp though.
@@HouseMadeUS thanks for the response... Just trying to put together a cost idea for doing stainless at home. I have a local heat treat company that will do the heat and cryo treatment.. I think it's better for the price they are charging to let them do it. By the time I add everything up at home vs. A pro treatment.... I love doing everything myself but in this case...
What size of wires did you use at min mark 8:23?
What gauge wire did you use to run from the SSR to the PID? What volt/amps is your wall outlet? My old kiln didn’t have the switches your did so I am running 10 AWG from the heating coil directly to the SSR.
220 wall outlet. 14 gauge from pid to SSR. 10 awg is fine for heating coil to SSR. That’s what I use.
Your video certainly meets the need. Thank you for putting it together.
Why the DC conversion and not apply AC to elements, a cost savings or are there other benefits to be had? I was contemplating using contactors and a programmable controller on mine.
This is AC to the coil. The controller uses DC to trigger the SSRs.
Hi,
Great video.
Can the controller be programmed to create a temperature curve in relation to time. Say the objective is to reach 1250 degrees in 12 hours with specific settings in between?
Best regards
Yes the Auber controller can do that.
I noticed the parts list link is no longer available. do you still have that information?
Updated link: housemade.us/pages/kiln-conversion-supply-list
Hello! I purchased the parts/equipment you listed. A friend converted my old Skutt Kiln using the Auber Instruments PID Temperature Controller W/ 30 RAMP/SOAK,SSR Output, SYL-2352P. Initially, it was showing the output of the kiln on the temp reading as a negative number, so I switched the thermocouple attachments (which by color appeared to be wired correctly). This took care of the error, and temps appeared to be read and shown correctly on the PID controller. Fast forward three kiln loads later that all over fired (I have the PID programming down). The PID is reading the temp in the kiln and running the programming (including the ramps and soaks), but not controlling the temp in the kiln. Any trouble shooting tips or instructions you can give for me to try?
I would start with the thermocouple. It may not be the right type for the temps you are running. Or it could be the SSRs they can overheat and not turn off. Maybe add a fan.
Bad SSRs could do this. I am about to do a similar mod, did you get yours working?
Does it switch off and stay off once it reaches temp?
No it turn off and comes back on to maintain temp.
Can you ramp the heat rate with that pod controller?
Yes
Not sure about crimping connectors onto solid core copper wire...
This is fantastic. Hoping you can answer a few questions. My kiln is single zone 240v, 60hz, 1 Phase, 5,760w, 24amp. Currently heats with 1pole 35amp NO mercury relay. Using your setup, would I use just one 40amp solid state relay? Also, will I maybe need to upgrade the gage size of elements? The kiln reaches and fires cone 6 2250F. Thank you for the video.
Yeah, the amount of coils determines the amount of SSRs. One should do just fine. The coil you have sounds fine. I’d run it that way and see if it can work. If it burns out, replace it. Cheers!
Link to the parts is gone, but I'd be interested in doing this conversion myself.
Got that info back online: housemade.us/pages/kiln-conversion-supply-list
if you don’t have the coil switches can you wire straight to coils? i gather you would lose the function of being able to turn off half the coils but could you still control temp the same?
Yes that is correct. I wanted to have the option so I left them in place.
House / Work. awesome. what brand is the pid? did the pid, ssr’s, heat sinks and thermometer come in a kit?
Take a look at the links in the description all that info is there. 👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻
Am I wrong that the DC side is actually wired in parallel?
Good catch thanks.
@@HouseMadeUS Should it be in Series or in parallel? It looks like it should be wired parallel. I just want to make sure.
Ok, maybe I'm stupid but why did you drill the holes in the kiln lid?
Thanks for a nice video.
I heat treat knives and hang them in that way.
@@HouseMadeUS I missed your text at the bottom of the picture when you showed the hole cutting. Thanks for the reply. It was a very nice video.
where did you get the ceramic heat shield for the thermocoupler? if i donny use that will i run into trouble? thanks
A company called omega carries them. If you don’t use it your thermocouple won’t last long. Check amazon too. I think you can buy it there.
House / Work what are they called?
House / Work wouldnt covering the thermo.. cause a delay or miss read of the temps?
You don’t cover the tip which is where the temps are read. You cover the wire as it heads back to the PID.
Hi would you recommend the syl-2352 by auber for the cheaper P.I.N. Thanks
Yeah that will work but you won’t be able to program it. Just a heads up
@@HouseMadeUS Got it, need only for the kiln to hit a certain temperature and I can shut down manually. Using for colour case hardening gun parts up to 1350 F so that should work. Thankyou for your time and the video is very well done excellent craftsmanship.
sword slayer - cool, sounds like a fun project. Good luck.
Would you be willing to share a parts list with me. Not that great at electrical but i can weld the heck out of anything. Just picked up an old modular Kiln it has 3 manual controllers on it now and i'd like to wire up the 3 coils just like you have done here.
Thanks,
Mike
Hi Michael, I have a full parts list on my website: housework.us/pid-kiln-conversion-project/ - hope that helps!
Thank you
Hello,
I’ve ordered the parts to do the conversation on my kiln. But Due to the current state sickness going around the type K thermocouple is not available. I’ve tried to match up the specs but I was hoping you may have a suggestion on a different model.
@@michaelbentley6643 I'm having the same problem. It's been unavailable for a long while now. The specs aren't listed either.
MrThatguy421 this is the one I bought. I haven’t done the conversion yet to know if it will work but the temps look right. I’m definitely not an election so I’m going at this slowly so I don’t ruin anything. Let me know what you think
Instruments
4.3 out of 5 stars 24 Reviews
High Temperature k-type Thermocouple Sensor Ceramic Kiln Furnace with connector plate and hook up cable 2372F 1300C CR-06
Amazon's
Choice
for "high temperature thermocouple"
Impressive. Looks real nice but one might want to allow for better venting on the SSR box. Solid State Relays fail closed (on) from over heat and if used for high fire ceramics (several hrs. @ high temp). Heat sinks are good but holes in the box and even a fan would cover your ass. Computer type DC 12v 8 or 10 cm would do ya. The stock coil type relays don't heat up so much yet their box was drilled for venting. Cool project but keep it cool.
You’re right. I’ve had this one stick on a couple of times due to over heating. I open the door as a temp fix but a fan would be the best. Thanks for commenting and watching. This was a fun one.
@@HouseMadeUS Oh and to get optimum performance from your heat sink there is thermal conducting paste or a pad that assures full contact with the SSR for heat transfer. One with high temp rating. My SSR has terminal covers so I mounted it on the out side of the kiln. Not so slick looking but safe enough. Might want to drill holes in the box sides or a fan wouldn't help.
I’ve done this on my second rendition of this. Thanks for the advice.
At time 8:45 why are you stirring up the wires and connectors in a bowl?
Visual representation of cooking up some wires. Instead of showing boring crimping. 💪🏻😁
Anyone know of a good troubleshooting guide for this set-up? Kiln not heating. Output light for PID is on, which I assume means i programmed it correctly and its running a program. Light on the SSRs comes on. Good continuity to coils. Any thoughts or resources?
Do you have a multimeter or an amp meter? You could check the amperage coming out of the solid-state relay is to your coils. To give you an example mine is about 24 A per SSR
House / Work I do, that’s a good idea. Thanks!
Report back. Also I had an issue once where my SSRs were coming on but not fully and it was because I wasn’t getting a full 12v DC to the SSRs. I had a fan in the mix and it was draining voltage. The SSRs couldn’t kick on fully. Hope you sort it out.
House / Work Thank you, will do!
@@HouseMadeUS Okay reporting back, :) Still not there yet. I purchased the simpler PID that you recommended on your website, that way I could simplify things, but same issues are coming up. PID reads ambient temp, despite where I set my limit. SSRs light up.
How did you check the voltage coming out of the SSR? I have a normal multimeter but I could use some advice on what points you checked. I think mine is reading 1.5v but Im not sure I am doing it right. Thanks!
You should use a definite purpose contactor on the lines feeding the SSRs use the alarm output relay on the PID to control that as a fail safe you have extra room in your box for it
I need help i need make same wiring but with 3 SSR with 3 heaters. I am building my own kiln got everything build. Just wiring is problem for me. Would You help me with explaining how to add 3 SSR. Regards
Just add the third SSR and daisy chain the dc side off the pid like I did. Pretty simple actually.
@@HouseMadeUS and what about ac side on this 3 SSR? I see You have live and neutral to 2 SSR. Or i am wrong. I live in europe. Thanks
Sorry just saw this. In the US both wires are hot, equating to 220. No neutral. Thanks.
@@HouseMadeUS thanks i wired it
You could have also bought a 3 phase SSR and wired accordingly.
I am considering doing this to my ceramic kiln, I fire it to around 2200 degrees f. Think it can handle it? Can you have multiple program presets into this controller?
Yes the electronics can handle running it up to 2200°F, but this particular controller cannot store multiple programs. And once you figure out how to program it it’s not too bad to set things up. But I could see it becoming frustrating because the interface is very rudimentary. You may want to look at Auber other pid controllers they offer a few more advanced style controllers that could possibly store programs.
@@HouseMadeUS Thanks for the response.
I ended up going with a Bartlett Genesis Mini, touch screen, controller. Found it onsale for $209.00!
Nice! I’d like to see that setup when you complete it. Brian@housework.us 👊🏻
@@lit_louis6017 where did you get the Genesis mini controller
@@danastripe5566 I got it on sale via theceramicshop.com
Did he just use his calipers to score a circle in ceramic metal abrasive material.... did that just happen??!!?? Why Brian... why!!
😂😂😂 That's soft fire brick, but yeah I probably shouldn't do that, it works well though! 😆
Hi, I looking for someone who can do that in Ireland? Anyone?
Any issues with the SSR have read in the Amazon reviews lots of posts about those SSR being poor quality and overrated
These are still going strong. 💪🏻
DO NOT WIRE THE SSR DIRECTLY TO THE COIL! yOU WANT TO BE ABLE TO BREAK THE CONNECTION - FAST!
Hey bro I'm really trying to convert my shed what's that little mixing s*** you did was it the same thing you did with the black and white wires Jesus Christ
I’m pretty disappointed in this build. You left one SIGNIFICANT part of this tutorial out where you’re mixing the wires in the bowl! You didn’t even tell us what dressing you used! Ugh!
I always is ball-slamic! 😁
@@HouseMadeUS 😂😂