About the Hydraulic cylinder replacement/repair, All forums say to replace or rebuild ALL of the hydraulic cylinders at the same time, as when one goes, the others aren't far behind. Great catch there finding two cylinders that were not rebuilt, or rebuilt poorly. Lazy previous mechanics not doing their homework, or lack of incentive to do the job right. When he says the main cylinders were being bypassed, what is he meaning? He says new seals fixed them, so one can assume those cylinders were leaking. How did the previous mechanics miss seeing fluid leaking from two cylinders? I haven't done this job myself, but from the forums I know there are 11 or 12 cylinders, depending upon the year of mfg. I'm curious about the bypass comment, I've never heard that mentioned in any forum, and lack of mention of those two cylinders leaking or not.
They were not leaking externally, the leak was internal. The piston seal was torn allowing fluid pressure to push past the piston and thus the roof would not function properly. That’s what made it so tough to diagnose, a mechanical failure without a leak!
91 300 SL driver rear latch was froze was working fine car sat about a week could not lift it for anything even with channel locks kept messing around with it removed the spring tension then finally got it broken loose took apart and the rod would not even pull out from the cylinder took cylinder apart piston seal swollen causes a lot of issues when changing the seals move the rod up and down slowly if binds your piston rod seal is bad also took me a long time to figure this one out.
Well done, ive repaired 2 x SLK,s hydro roofs buying the seals from RSC autotec who i believe r the suppliers to mercedes ! I drilled the rams and got off the circlip etc. Very satisfing when i fixed it for a few euros, and it would have cost a few hundred at main dealer 😊
Great info, thank you for sharing. I have a 98 SL500 and just replaced my battery. Could not figure out why the top would not function properly and I think it was this channel that told about "resetting the windows" by holding down both window switches at the same time until they went all the way down. While still holding the window switches I manually pressed each window ( the actual window) with my finger to ensure they went down all the way to make sure they triggered the switch. Top works great after that. However, while reading the manual on how to manually put up the soft top it stated that the back of the top could not be locked in place with the special tool from the trunk. Earlier 129's have a visible red piece that is used to lock the back of the soft top into position. Is there something that can be done to manually lock the back of the soft top (or hard top) into position if there is some type of failure? Thank you! Pete
Yes the windows will trick a lot of people! As far as locking the roof, it can still be done on the later models, albeit not with the ease the earlier ones with the red locating tabs allow!
There is no switch at the base of the window on a 98. They use a hall effect sensor inside the window motor to count pulses and establish where the window is. I dont know why they removed the earlier system for re latching the rear but as mentioned it can be done but is awkward
Hi guys, interesting video, you might be able to give me an idea about mine, My hard top roof lowers and rises as it should but then we you try and make the soft top activate you see the cover piece try and move slightly and then always hear a click from the back left. ( it does notting else ) any ideas? do you think it could be a worn out mirco switch etc? Any help is much appricatred.
Does the soft top compartment move before anything else or does it go through most of the cycle? Shoot us a message at 678-631-9028 we’ll be happy to walk you through some diag
I would love to see more videos like this one! I also repair these cars for a living (except im in southern Ca). Good work!
wizard sent me here
Me too !
About the Hydraulic cylinder replacement/repair, All forums say to replace or rebuild ALL of the hydraulic cylinders at the same time, as when one goes, the others aren't far behind. Great catch there finding two cylinders that were not rebuilt, or rebuilt poorly. Lazy previous mechanics not doing their homework, or lack of incentive to do the job right.
When he says the main cylinders were being bypassed, what is he meaning? He says new seals fixed them, so one can assume those cylinders were leaking. How did the previous mechanics miss seeing fluid leaking from two cylinders?
I haven't done this job myself, but from the forums I know there are 11 or 12 cylinders, depending upon the year of mfg. I'm curious about the bypass comment, I've never heard that mentioned in any forum, and lack of mention of those two cylinders leaking or not.
They were not leaking externally, the leak was internal. The piston seal was torn allowing fluid pressure to push past the piston and thus the roof would not function properly. That’s what made it so tough to diagnose, a mechanical failure without a leak!
91 300 SL driver rear latch was froze was working fine car sat about a week could not lift it for anything even with channel locks kept messing around with it removed the spring tension then finally got it broken loose took apart and the rod would not even pull out from the cylinder took cylinder apart piston seal swollen causes a lot of issues when changing the seals move the rod up and down slowly if binds your piston rod seal is bad also took me a long time to figure this one out.
Great thorough Explanations 👍
Well done, ive repaired 2 x SLK,s hydro roofs buying the seals from RSC autotec who i believe r the suppliers to mercedes !
I drilled the rams and got off the circlip etc.
Very satisfing when i fixed it for a few euros, and it would have cost a few hundred at main dealer 😊
Great info, thank you for sharing. I have a 98 SL500 and just replaced my battery. Could not figure out why the top would not function properly and I think it was this channel that told about "resetting the windows" by holding down both window switches at the same time until they went all the way down. While still holding the window switches I manually pressed each window ( the actual window) with my finger to ensure they went down all the way to make sure they triggered the switch. Top works great after that. However, while reading the manual on how to manually put up the soft top it stated that the back of the top could not be locked in place with the special tool from the trunk. Earlier 129's have a visible red piece that is used to lock the back of the soft top into position. Is there something that can be done to manually lock the back of the soft top (or hard top) into position if there is some type of failure? Thank you! Pete
Yes the windows will trick a lot of people! As far as locking the roof, it can still be done on the later models, albeit not with the ease the earlier ones with the red locating tabs allow!
There is no switch at the base of the window on a 98. They use a hall effect sensor inside the window motor to count pulses and establish where the window is. I dont know why they removed the earlier system for re latching the rear but as mentioned it can be done but is awkward
Good catch...other wise 1x1 x 13 cylinders to go thru
Thanks, was a challenge but got through it!
Wizard sent me
QUICK-WITTED DC MotorWerks
👍
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 20:30pm
Wizard sent me!
Hi guys, interesting video, you might be able to give me an idea about mine, My hard top roof lowers and rises as it should but then we you try and make the soft top activate you see the cover piece try and move slightly and then always hear a click from the back left. ( it does notting else ) any ideas? do you think it could be a worn out mirco switch etc? Any help is much appricatred.
Does the soft top compartment move before anything else or does it go through most of the cycle? Shoot us a message at 678-631-9028 we’ll be happy to walk you through some diag
Now try fixing the VW eos roof 😂😅
Why does the cluster look like a Christmas tree?
Lights go out once the engine is started.
All cars should do that with the ignition on and NOT starting the car. A way to know if all the warning bulbs are still working.