Making Wine from Frozen Concentrate
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- čas přidán 15. 01. 2017
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This is a fun little project for the winter months when fresh fruits and juices are not available. Believe it or not, you can make wine from welch's, old orchard, or any 100% fruit juice concentrate that does not contain too many preservatives. In this video I am making apple wine from 100% apple concentrate that can be bought at the grocery store. This is a great way to keep up on your skills or to get into winemaking if you are a beginner and are not sure what to do. - Jak na to + styl
This video is 5 years old and I just stumbled across it. I've learned quite a bit watching your videos. FYI what I have been doing with fruit juice wines is buying the juice and raising the SG with frozen concentrate. I just made a gal batch with grape juice and added two cans of frozen grape concentrate. I added a just a little water to be able to net a full gal after racking. With just two cans the SG was 1.081. I bought a 3rd can of concentrate but I wanted a lower alcohol level so I could drink it sooner. The result with both grape and apple is more fruit flavor, less watery. I haven't tried any other fruit juices.
This is freakin' amazing! You are a real pro at this!
Great video , I appreciate how you went over what each thing does. Too many videos assume we know about these compounds already.
I’m just starting out with my first batch with a kit. I have watched hours of videos and I like yours the best! Thank you for going start to finish in the same video and answering questions. I’ll be trying this one out myself!
You are welcome! The frozen juice concentrates are fun to play around with.
Love your work area. Clean and organized.
I'm so impressed with your process!!!
I will try it today!!!
Man oh man, you sure do complete the hell out of making home brew wine!
Thanks for posting followed ur directions and loving the wine, thx bro
thank you for the video ! best wine I ever made
Great video! Thank you!
Two things I would change. Use something better as sanitizer, than a campden tablet and add your yeast nutrient (dap) 24-48 hrs after starting the wine.
I wanted to say Thanks for the instructions. We just completed our first home made wine using 100% pure apple juice using your instructions. We let it sit for the entire 30 days, and it came out great. Now, in another 10 days our concord grape juice wine will be ready for tasting. Thanks again for the simple to follow directions. Now we are thinking about what our next wine will be!
Thanks a lot for the great video 😊
Very good. Thank you.
Great video, I'll be starting my first batch soon and will follow your steps, would you recommend to bottle it and let it sit for few months . Is there much benefits/improvement in taste.
loved it! thank you
You sound like dax shepard. Great video. Very informative.
Mike CZcams Holy shit he does haha
Thanks and makes sense, my last wine may have started to referment or it was just extra bubbly, i didnt think it was my wine refementing all the sugar would been gone. To much co2 the only thing that made it spray out... It was at room temp for a month. Still had a good tasting wine but sad i lost half a bottle though. Thanks ill try suggestions
I have really enjoyed your videos. I have two vines of Frontenac grapes in upstate ny. I live in Florida and am going to ship the grapes to Florida. Given the small quantity of juice two vines will produce, do you think I can add it to a cabernet wine expert kit? I am concerned with trying to figure out how to add the frontenac juice since the kit with be concentrate. Thanks so much for any thoughts!
Good Video! I have Never tried making wine from Concentrate! Iv been stuck on mead, and Beer but I am ready to move on to new things! If I remember, Ill let you know how my next batch turns out. Going for red this time around.
Enjoyed the video so much!!! Much less intimidating the way you explained it. Thanks. One question, can I leave this with the screw top at room temperature, or do I need to refrigerate. Or must I bottle and cork?? Thanks for a great video.
Thanks, Mary. If the wine has finished bubbling completely and you get the clear wine off the sediment, it should be fine at room temperature with the screw top as long as there is not much air space. If you back sweeten it, which I would recommend, make sure you add potassium sorbate or you can make quite a mess if it starts fermenting again. The fridge is always safer if you are just starting out and aren't quite sure though. The main thing you are making sure of is that either the yeast has consumed nearly all the sugar, or that nearly all the yeast has settled out and the wine has been separated from it before back sweetening... And that potassium sorbate has been added to stop any remaining yeast from multiplying. You just don't want it to start bubbling again with a screw top. Also you don't want much air space or it will slowly oxidize into vinegar. You can always use something like Mason jars if you want to put it into smaller quantities and don't have a corker.
thank you very much for this video I really like wine, especially when preparing it at home. but in your opinion when the fermentation process ends we won't have methanol in our wine?
So you suggest cinnamon sticks, nutmeg, etc prior to back sweetening or prior to racking? If prior to racking would you put it in at the beginning of fermentation?
With success I tried 17 cans - frozen, concentrated - Welch's white grape juice for a 5 gallon bottle.
Can i keep it in the carboy with the airlock longer than 7 days after i transfer to a clean carboy? To make a bolder taste and also to degas?
The airlock needs more than just water, bugs can swim in water and get into your brew, use sanatisation liquid or something that will kill bugs
Someone said you could make it from canned fruit pie filling. Can you do a video on that ?
Thanks for the video. Do you think this Apple wine tastes best young? Or does it get a lot better with bulk aging or even bottle aging? Was shocked (and excited) it would taste good after only 30 days?
Without tannins, it doesn't age well.
If I used juice from freshly squeezed fruit like grapes and blueberries, do I need to add the campden tablets at the beginning of the fermentation process to kill the natural bacteria in the fruit?
Man, Freddy Krueger really turned his life around.
This is my second batch of wine ever, and the first had me degas the wine after adding the Potassium metabisulfite and potassium sorbate. With this wine would you recommend degassing? I am planning to make 6 gallons.
It all depends. If you are planning on bottling early (1-2) months, you will have some baby CO2 bubbles. Being that this is an apple wine, that might not be such a bad thing. If you rack it a few times and wait five or six months to bottle, then you really shouldn't need to degas. I don't love degassing because of the risk of adding excess oxygen but if it really is saturated with CO2, then oxidation should not be an issue. You can degas with a little vacuum brake bleeder tool which works nice and doesn't intro any oxygen. I have found it is best to empty about a gallon before using the brake bleeder though, so you have some room to swirl it around and let the bubbles come out. Good luck!
Have you tried removing the spent yeast vs the wine? And would you be able to use the old yeast as a started?
Did you sanitize the hydrometer, measuring teablespoon, and thermometer?
Great video!
I generally will spray that stuff with a spray bottle of starsan, especially if it is from a pasteurized juice or concentrate. On a wine made from grapes it is a little bit of a different ballgame. The grapes come in off the vineyard with all bugs intact. It is more important to manage the microbial activity in that case than to sanitize your tools (since any spoilage microbes are likely already there). To do this it is important to pave the way for a healthy fermentation by yeast which will out compete most other problem microbes. Beyond that it is about managing air contact, pH, nutrient, and SO2 levels. A finished wine is about 70-100 times more acidic and 2-3x higher alcohol than a beer so there are very few things that can live in it. That's not to say that you can be careless but a lot of people get off track and spend a lot of time cleaning hydrometers and very little time learning about the relationship of air, acid, and SO2.
After my primary fermentation I transferred to the secondary after 7 days and it was too sweet plus it was above what it should be on the hydrometer, what I did was introduced more yeast and now I’m wondering did I make a mistake? It’s back bubbling and I’m hoping you can tell me is this gona work?
It should be fine. Looks like it just stalled. I would make sure it stays warm enough and stir or swirl it up a little once a day until it finishes.
I used the same kind of yeast, but my juice temp was a bit above 73 degrees. I kept it in a warm room and the yeast is bubbling a little, but there was no large amount of foam to show vigorous fermentation like yours did. Should I toss it and start over?
Do you have a hydrometer to check if the specific gravity is dropping? Sometimes it will bubble without foaming. I usually only get foam for about a day or two then it dissipates and bubbles about like if you poured a soda into a glass. It should smell a little bready when it is fermenting and if it is going hard it will sting your nose a bit from the CO2.
Don't you need to wait sometime after adding sulfites and sorbate before sweetening? Is there any risk of re-fermentation if you add everything at the same time as you did in this video?
I was wondering the same thing. I've read that you should wait 24hrs after stabilizing before you backsweeten??
wait... you don't dilute your concentrate?? just started my first batch and I prepared it like regular juice but added 4 cups of sugar each batch (made 2) so now I'm gonna check and see if it's water-downed flavored
what is the size of the stopper?
Are we able to use Concord Grape juice? If so, is the process the same, or will there be anything more or less that we add?
Just make sure it does not have potassium sorbet, it's a preservative and will stall the yeast.
Is 10% good for wime to sit at room temp? Womderimg because we heard its shelf stable at that point.
It depends on your pH and SO2 levels also. If you are on the lower end of the pH scale (2.9-3.4) you can get away with a little less SO2 than if you are 3.5+. If you are low pH and high alcohol you are even better off. But if you are leaving residual sugar, all bets are off. I go a little heavier on the SO2 than I would on a dry wine of the same pH and alcohol and make sure to add potassium sorbate. In theory you can sterile filter and be fine, but at home filtration setups aren't that great to be sure that you got every little yeast cell out.
Another great video! They have really been helping me. I have already started this one and next I want to try making one from a pineapple juice concentrate. Will I have to add anything in addition to the ingredients you have for this apple wine? If so, what are they, when do I add them, and how much of each? Thanks for the great content!
I have made a pineapple and I believe I did about the same thing. I can check my notes tonight. I actually had really good luck with orange juice and a hint of pineapple. It tasted like a mimosa and went over very good! with some of the juices, it sometimes helps to add a neutral white grape concentrate to bring out some body in the wine
Thanks for the quick reply. I actually just came from the store and picked up Welch's Orange Pineapple Apple flavored concentrate. I was gonna try adding a white grape concentrate like you suggested, but they didn't have any. I'll wait to hear back from you before I start this one. Thanks, again!
Here's what I did for 3 gallons... 6 orange juice concentrates. 1 orange-pineapple concentrate. 1/2 cup lemon juice. 4.5 grams ascorbic acid or crushed up vitamin c pills. Pectic enzyme and yeast nutrient. Add sugar to bring original gravity to about 1.075. I used lalvin K1-V1116 and fermented cool once I got it started up (55 to 60 degrees) to retain the orange aroma. I back sweetened it to 1.010 specific gravity after it went dry and clear. Very good though! You can deviate however but that is a good starting point for sure
Cool Stuff Guys Like Ok, is the ascorbic acid and pectic enzyme necessary?
+jmsteve45 the pectic enzyme will just make it clear up easier. The ascorbic acid is another defense against oxidation but isn't entirely necessary. It adds a little bit of a fresh taste at that amount also. You can wait to add that later if you do want to add it
I recently found your channel and subscribed and hit the bell to stay informed. I've been binge watching you channel, and have a question about this video. Why are you using concentrate rather than 100% apple juice? My reading of the labels on concentrate cans says to mix the 12 oz. contents of the can with 32 oz. of water to make 48 oz of juice with a 10% concentration. It seems to me that 100% pure apple juice would work best, but I am new, so I figure I'm missing something here. Thank you very much for any feedback.
If you can get fresh apple cider, that is the best way to go, but make sure that it has no preservatives. The frozen concentrates usually don't contain any sorbates, but the unfrozen juice often will. Potassium sorbate will inhibit the fermentation. If you do use juice, just make sure to read the label. Ascorbic acid is okay. Potassium metabisulfite is okay and can be eliminated with a couple drops of hydrogen peroxide. Anything "sorbate" on the label is no good for getting a fermentation started.
@@TheHomeWinemakingChannel O.K. Thanks for the reply. I now understand the reasoning. I appreciate all the effort you put in to making this channel successful.
you should have used a racking cane....the way you did it has a high chance of putting air in it and making vinegar
How much sugar would be added to the concord grape concentrate to create a wine that is around typical red 11-12ish abv? You state add a cup of sugar in the video but would that be enough to bump final alcohol up? I have been making beer for a while and want to give this a try.
Do you have a hydrometer from your home brewing? Each juice will be a little different, and will vary depending on how much water you add and how much sugar is in the concentrate. You will want to target about 20-21 Brix for 11-12% sugar. One degree brix is equal to 1 gram of sugar per 100 grams of solution. So to raise the sugar content of a gallon, by 1 degree brix you will want to add about 38 or 40 grams of sugar.
Primary fermentation (fresh pressed cider) in a bucket...do you cover with airlock? or paper towel?
A paper towel is fine as long as it is actively fermenting. For larger batches I will just use a food grade bucket with a towel over it to keep the fruit flys out. After things slow down to a halt, get in a jug or carboy with an airlock
I have 4 G of cider in a food grade bucket. This is my 1st ever batch of wine. I had put a lid with air lock but now I was reading maybe to not put lid with airlock, so thought id check if i should switch to a towel on top instead. Airlock has plenty of activity and I stir it each day for the last two days so far. Thank you.
I think you misspoke. You say to take 1/3 of a teaspoon of Pot. Met, to add to the wine, but what you're showing is a 1/4 tsp. that is about 1/3 full. Having said that, it's my "Internet Understanding" that 1/4 tsp. of Pot. Met. will add 50 ppm. for a 5 gallon batch. Do you agree with this? I'm trying to figure out how much of this stuff to use. There are so many different opinions on Pot. Met., and I want to make sure my wine is properly protected. Thanks
Could you freeze it & make applejack from this ?
I'm assuming yes but I'm pretty new to all this.
Yes, it would get a little stronger/more concentrated if you froze it and poured off the liquid. Probably not going to be too crazy though.
Will dried oak still give it the smell and flavor of being in an oak barrel or newly cut oak?
Yes, most oak staves used in barrels are dried for at least 12 months to reduce the green tannin. Many are dried longer, up to 36 months.
Hello thanks for the video I have a few questions first is how long should I wait after bottling the wine before get the best taste second is I have read some comments about degassing what is that about.thanks in advance :)
Hi! For question one, It all depends on when you bottle. In general, I like to wait about a month after bottling to alleviate any "bottle shock" that can happen from the surge of oxygen you will be introducing into the wine at the time of bottling. If you are bottling early (less than 6 months), you will usually see the wine smooth out by waiting up to about a year but it all depends on the wine. High tannin, high alcohol wines take a long time, and fruity, sweet wines are usually better drank young. If you are bottling young and notice any effervescence in the wine, you can degas. On something like a red wine that usually sits for about a year or so, it is generally not a problem. On an apple wine it can actually be nice to have a little carbonation. There are a couple ways to degas. Traditionally you would stir it like crazy with a mixer on the end of a drill, or swirl it around like crazy with some headspace in the carboy. You can also use a vacuum brake bleeder with a tube and bung on the end which will pull a good bit out. With the brake bleeder method, I still recommend leaving space in the carboy to swirl and help get the CO2 out.
The Home Winemaking Channel thank you so much for answer. I would like to ask one more question I have plum threes and wanna make wine with it how should I arrange water and sugar ratio and and is there a difference between grapes and plum fermentation time . I appreciate for help. :)
What makes this wine as opposed to cider?
Bro I followed this guide to the word except I tried producing 3 gallons . The next morning we looked and it wasn't reacting at all.. could the temperature mess it up?
If your yeast didn't start, try warming it up to around 75 or 80F (Don't go past 90 or you might kill off your yeast). Also make sure that the Apple juice that you used doesn't contain any Potassium Sorbate. Aside from that the big inhibitors would be way too much acid (pH below about 2.8) or way too much sugar (Above 27 or 28 brix on a hydrometer). If you are really having trouble, you can make a good yeast starter by hydrating the yeast per the instructions on the packet then gradually adding apple juice to the starter once it is bubbling good to get the yeast used to the change in acidity.
I'm making a wine from cranberry juice. I covered it with a paper towel, but while I was at work the yeast were very active and rose to the paper towel. there's kind of like a thick film now in the head space of the carboy, is this the yeast or some of the paper towel since it had gotten wet?
+Michael Mortimore that is from the yeast and is pretty normal in the first couple days of fermentation. Without enough head space it can foam over. You should be fine though and it should stop foaming in the next day or so.
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so I should just use any potassium metabisulfite I have laying around so I don't have to buy anything else what about grain alcohol it would keep it sterile
Yeah, you can use your sulfites for cleaning. Here is a link from my website on a homemade sulfite based sanitizer www.smartwinemaking.com/single-post/2018/02/24/Homemade-Sanitizer-for-Wine-Equipment
May be a dumb question, but does this taste like store bought wine? Or is it more like a cider?
This is more like a store bought hard cider rather than a traditional wine. The next step towards wine from this would be a wine kit from concentrate. Ultimately you will want to use good wine grapes for red wine and good wine grape juice for white wine for the highest quality.
👍👍👍👍👍
No need in yeast nutrient, just add couple of fresh fruits like banana or apple.
So I’m doing a peach wine and I added 1 chopped apple to the juice after pitching the yeast it took more than 48 hrs to see any reaction. It’s been day 5 and I constantly have to stir the juice to get it going. Should I add any yeast nutrient? Or is there anything I can do to get the fermentation going as normal?
A little yeast nutrient won't hurt. If you bring the temp up a few degrees it will also help. Sometimes if the pH is a little low the yeast can be a little sluggish. You are dealing with wild yeast also which could be who knows what strain. You can add a known strain to it if it doesn't eventually pick up. Most wine yeast packets are just wild yeast strains that are known to be reliable or advantageous in some way and have been isolated and grown up in commercial size cultures.
The Home Winemaking Channel thank you. I will try adding the nutrient. Hopefully that helps.
Could put it in the sink raise the temp get it going. But don't over heat
can I add frozen concentrate when I do my secondary transfer ?
You could but it will continue to ferment the sugars from the concentrate rather than add any sweetness.
so, this is a great wine, but I added too much sugar when I backsweetened it. Is there anything I can do to fix this.
You could make another batch of the same wine and blend them together, then sweeten to your liking.
Also maybe try drinking it colder. Sweet wines taste less sweet the colder you get them. They can taste syrupy as they are warmer.
Which video do you have for bottling?
Here is part 1 of 2. czcams.com/video/bF01YuP23uM/video.html and part 2 czcams.com/video/CDYJ457kTUQ/video.html
I made some September 30 and today is October 5 I made 4 liters with 100% juice and 4 liters with concentrate and the one with juice smells like beer what can that be?
It is probably just the yeast. A healthy fermentation can smell a little "bready" when it really gets rolling. Different yeasts have different smells. Some of the ale yeast that you can use i cider will smell like cake batter. You are probably getting a big nose of CO2 right now also which could contribute to the beer vibe.
The Home Winemaking Channel thank you very much hopefully when it gets ready it will get to smelling better
The most common bad smell you will get is hydrogen sulfide (rotten egg smell). If this happens, your best course of action is usually a little more yeast nutrient and some generous aeration. During the wine season it is pretty smelly in my basement but it mostly smells pleasing like you are cooking bread or sometimes a little fruity or like pie. As long as you don't get the rotten egg smells though, you are fine. Just churn it up once a day and keep those yeast happy. If you get nervous give them a little bump in nutrient.
Can the dormant yeast from the fermentation bottle be reused to make more apple wine?
It can, but don't do it more than one or two times. Eventually you get many many generations deep into the yeast which normally results in diminished properties from the vibrant first strain. Yeast is super cheap also, so I normally don't re-use.
I forgot to add my yeast nutrient before I put in the ec118. Can i do it after or is it too late?
You can add it after. It is actually a little better to stagger the nutrient additions so that the yeast doesn't smoke through it too quick. Just stop adding as things slow down so the other microbes don't have something to feed on when the fermentation stops
I've watched several videos and and read several stories about racking the wine after 7 days and then wrecking it again after about a month. I see you did not do that in this series. Is this necessary or not? I am making the great version of the wine in this video but I'm making 5 gallons of it so I'm not sure if that changes anything also. Thanks for the reply and all th great information in your videos.
This video was very simplified for people who want to dip their feet into winemaking. If making wine from grapes you would press at the end of fermentation, let the wine settle for about 24 hours then rack. Let the wine complete malolactic fermentation which is usually a few weeks to a couple months, then sulfite. From there you can let it age for a very long time without racking. From juice I will rack after primary fermentation. Make sure to stir daily until it has completed. When it is dry, let it settle for about a day. Rack it, and let it clear for about a month or two and rack again. If you have less than about 1/4 inch of lees on the bottom there is no urgency to rack. If you have about an inch or more it is relatively urgent as it will start to produce hydrogen sulfide from the breakdown of the dead yeast cells. The timelines you see are really just simplified rules of thumb. Over time you will learn to just watch the wine and take action when the wine tells you to. There are a lot of variables that can effect the rate that a wine moves along.
Is this wine or cider?
Just wondering if this could be carbonated?
HensChicks Birds definitely! I have some friends that force carbonate their Apple wines and they are really tasty. You can also carbonate in the bottle if you get some grolsch top bottles or champagne bottles (champagne bottles can be capped with 29mm crown caps). The bottle carbonation is a lot riskier and trickier though.
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A thought: A great deal of apple juice and concentrate is imported from China, these days. It might be as good as anything we produce in America but I have concerns about the apocalyptic level of pollution that they have in many places. At least some products of the WhiteHouse brand are produced in Virginia and they make great apple wine.
EastTennessee Expat also remember China is over populated and they bury their dead in apple orchards and the ones they don’t bury is made into Vienna sausages or spam then exported to Switzerland and from Switzerland to the United States and sold in local dollar stores and other chains, so my point is the apple juice from China is just as good as any other country but I will stick to American brands and make sure it have a contact number on the product
I live 45 minutes away from a Welch's factory and they get the apples/grapes locally. Washington grows a lot of produce.
Can you use Splenda or equal to sweeten?
You could, and I don't think you would need to use potassium sorbate in that case, since I don't think those are "fermentable" sugars. It may taste a little artificial though.
What u do to get rid of the terrible söell after the fermentation period ends
Smell**
If you have a bad smell, it means your yeast was stressed during fermentation. To prevent it, you would want to feed them with a little more yeast nutrient or make sure that your fermentation temperature is within the recommended range for your yeast. Also if your wine sits on the heavy sediment for too long it can create a stinks. To fix it, you can splash rack it, or just dump it back and forth between two containers a bunch of times, exposing it to a lot of oxygen and blowing off the hydrogen sulfide. The more aggressive tactic would be to treat it with copper sulfate but make sure you know what you are doing because it is highly toxic. You really only want to use just enough to react with the H2S.
Is it possible to shock, or kill the yeast... supposing the temp of juice was too hot, ...say 110 _ 120 F .
Definitely. You might not reliably kill the yeast at those temps though if that's what you are looking you do. Anything above 90 will stress the yeast and can create off smells and cooked tastes. The cooked tastes are more of an issue for grape based wines though. You can shock it by chilling the wine down to about 30F also which is the more common thing to do (cold crashing). Or in the apple wine case you could heat it to about 160F briefly to pasteurize it. Just make sure the lids are off and do it in a pot of water.
@@TheHomeWinemakingChannel so that being said, this 2ndary batch I got going, activated everything at 110 F ( yeast , sugar)... will it still make alcohol???
would the wine taste better if you went straight concentrate and no water? the starting gravity shouldnt be too high
ever see if this works??
how much water did you add?
Enough to to make about a gallon of total liquid. The jug is 4 liters and it is a little shy of full.
Can you use an airlock right from the start?
You can but you will be at higher risk for hydrogen sulfide problems. The yeast likes a little oxygen during active fermentation and the wine is saturated with CO2 so oxidation is not yet a concern.
make sure the juice dont contain patassium sorbate it will hurt the yeast ,ok what you need is your air lock here,yeast ec118 patassium meta bi sulfite ,patassium sorbate thought that hurt the yeast lol .so the juice can't contain it because it hurts the yeast but in the end you add it to the product ? just confused .
You don't want the potassium sorbate in the juice or it will inhibit the fermentation. Once fermentation is completed, and especially if you want to back sweeten with sugar, you need to add potassium sorbate so that it doesn't try to re-ferment the newly added sugar. Bad before fermentation... Good before bottling.
Does those chemicals ever expires?
+panisher I keep them in the fridge and sealed up to extend the shelf life. The sulfites and sorbate last 6mo to a year depending on how you store them. They just start to lose there potency over time so you would need to go a little heavy on the addition if they are a little old. Yeast lasts a couple years. Yeast nutrient lasts pretty much forever if it is stored in a dry place
I noticed you didn’t degass at all. Why is that?
I usually don't Degas since most wines I let go for 6 months or so and there is usually no detectable CO2 by then. I don't love the idea of splashing around the wine and possibly introducing oxygen. On a rare occasion here and there I will use a hand pump brake bleeder connected to a bung to Degas. For the most part my motto is may waaaay more wine than you need, then you can be in no hurry to bottle it. It is nice to let the wine mature a little before committing it to a bottle, so you can do any tweaks or blending and be confident it is not going to change much
I would think that a sanitized coffee filter would keep that yeast back.
You really need a sterile filter (.5 micron or smaller) to get all the yeast out. They are ridiculously small and slip through just about any other form of filter. Crazy fact... 1 milliliter of yeast slurry contains over 1 billion yeast cells. So an actively fermenting carboy of wine probably contains hundreds of billions of yeast. It's like a whole micro universe in there...
Why not use a coffee filter to separate sediment from wine..??
The lees will plug a coffee filter in a couple seconds....the first bit will take forever and a half, then nothing else will pass through. As an aside, pouring through a filter risks oxidizing the wine which will eventually make a nice bottle of vinegar. Completely not worth attempting.
I suppose
Got a five gallon jug of berries berries on right now
Why are you using a paper towel when you have an airlock?
just a tip you probaly know but your viewera may not, under 11% abv its ablpe cider 11% or more its apple wine
Thx for the tip..I'm looking for higher alcohol content..(more sugar)
if you like strong i once made a cider to 18% used sugar and molasses
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first you said to get juice without potassium sorbate and then you add it back in in powder form? that is nonsense
You add potassium sorbate only after fermentation is complete to prevent re-fermention of the sugars that you would add back to the wine. Potassium sorbate before fermentation will prevent the yeast that you are adding from multiplying to a healthy count which usually means you won't successfully get a fermentation going. That is why you want juice without potassium sorbate.
Stopped watching after he took temp of the glass. Glass temp isn't liquid temperature.
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All i use is juice, sugar, and yeast. My Grape Juice with sugar alone, make wine setting in the dam ice box, for 3 weeks. He heee So why use all that bs
Very poor audio. Use a clip mic next time....