I did a similar mod which didn't require removing the tank or dealing with metal dust from cutting. I used a large sharpened nail to punch 6 neat holes in the top of the neck that sticks into the tank. Can be done simply via the filler hole with the cap removed. This stops the airlock and allows you to fill the tank all the way. I think I just pushed that flap out of the way so it also fills much faster.
I used an old rubber elbow (airbox rubber) that I taped to vacuum cleaner hose, and used a Dremel like you many many years ago. Well worth doing as you found out
Good work sir! I have one of this bike which I kept for 27 years. Is a blue color. I have a problem now with the fuel sender assembly. Previously was rusted inside the gas tank. I disassembled the mechanism assembly & cleaned the piece of ceramic PCB(variable resistor of 0 ohm to 130 ohm) with methanol or acetone(can't remembered). I messed up... the carbon resistive material melted...gone case. As I am an engineer, I bought a replacement one of the generic general car tank fuel sender(cost around SGD$20), pucked out the VR which is rounded knop type...tap & mounted to the exacted center of the swing point. I haven't fixed back into my bike, guess 90% will work becoz is just a varing of 1 to 130 ohm. I can't remembered 1ohm is going empty tank & 130 ohm is full tank or vice-versa. I also modified ( reallocted) the alternator rectifier which always break down becoz due to altenator was mounted on the engine itself & heat generated inside that cause the rectifier to break down( that is the fault design by Yamaha). I did replaced the alternator twice, as one alternator cost me SGD$ 900 exclude labor charges from Yamaha original workshop. So I bought a bosch variable rectifier, wired laying extended to near the battery compartment. It works ok. Just a sharing of my experiences of modification as spare parts are hard to come by & expensive. So just sharing my DIY repair experiences. See you if you need sharing advise.
I found a much easier way that requires no cutting or damage to the bike. I strategically drilled a small hole in the filler tube just to the side of where the filler flap is located and screwed in a small 10mm self tapping screw. The screw stops the filler flap from closing and allows free flow of fuel. I get an extra litre of petrol when I fill up and can remove the screw at anytime if I want to return the bike to its original condition.
Brilliant man love watching and learning thank ❤️👀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
How do you punch holes add screws or cut off with a dremel without the sparks? It is a silly idea from Yamaha that looses so much space ( I still dont get why they have the flap) and an extra 10-15 miles of travel would make my journeys that little bit easier.
Thanks. You don't need to remove the bracket, but it's better to disconnect the fuel lines then you can take the tank out and disassemble on your bench. I put an empty yogurt cup from the inside over the nozzle while grinding (I use abrasive disks not diamond blade) then hardly any dirt gets into the tank. My GTS fill now in 60s and I get them completely full. Only thing to watch out for if you fill it up all the way - don let it sit in the sun or with a hot motor - ride 20-40 km immediately then the gas has some space to expand into again and is not spilled out which could be dangerous.
A very clever man and I love watching his videos thank you❤️👀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I did a similar mod which didn't require removing the tank or dealing with metal dust from cutting. I used a large sharpened nail to punch 6 neat holes in the top of the neck that sticks into the tank. Can be done simply via the filler hole with the cap removed. This stops the airlock and allows you to fill the tank all the way. I think I just pushed that flap out of the way so it also fills much faster.
Nice idea
I used an old rubber elbow (airbox rubber) that I taped to vacuum cleaner hose, and used a Dremel like you many many years ago. Well worth doing as you found out
Indeed !
Good work sir! I have one of this bike which I kept for 27 years. Is a blue color. I have a problem now with the fuel sender assembly. Previously was rusted inside the gas tank. I disassembled the mechanism assembly & cleaned the piece of ceramic PCB(variable resistor of 0 ohm to 130 ohm) with methanol or acetone(can't remembered). I messed up... the carbon resistive material melted...gone case. As I am an engineer, I bought a replacement one of the generic general car tank fuel sender(cost around SGD$20), pucked out the VR which is rounded knop type...tap & mounted to the exacted center of the swing point. I haven't fixed back into my bike, guess 90% will work becoz is just a varing of 1 to 130 ohm. I can't remembered 1ohm is going empty tank & 130 ohm is full tank or vice-versa. I also modified ( reallocted) the alternator rectifier which always break down becoz due to altenator was mounted on the engine itself & heat generated inside that cause the rectifier to break down( that is the fault design by Yamaha). I did replaced the alternator twice, as one alternator cost me SGD$ 900 exclude labor charges from Yamaha original workshop. So I bought a bosch variable rectifier, wired laying extended to near the battery compartment. It works ok. Just a sharing of my experiences of modification as spare parts are hard to come by & expensive. So just sharing my DIY repair experiences. See you if you need sharing advise.
I found a much easier way that requires no cutting or damage to the bike. I strategically drilled a small hole in the filler tube just to the side of where the filler flap is located and screwed in a small 10mm self tapping screw. The screw stops the filler flap from closing and allows free flow of fuel. I get an extra litre of petrol when I fill up and can remove the screw at anytime if I want to return the bike to its original condition.
Can you add a pic? Or a video please
Holy crap. Never seen one of these under the bodywork. How did yamaha manage to leave any room left in the tank for fuel?!
Brilliant man love watching and learning thank ❤️👀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
How do you punch holes add screws or cut off with a dremel without the sparks? It is a silly idea from Yamaha that looses so much space ( I still dont get why they have the flap) and an extra 10-15 miles of travel would make my journeys that little bit easier.
Thanks. You don't need to remove the bracket, but it's better to disconnect the fuel lines then you can take the tank out and disassemble on your bench. I put an empty yogurt cup from the inside over the nozzle while grinding (I use abrasive disks not diamond blade) then hardly any dirt gets into the tank. My GTS fill now in 60s and I get them completely full. Only thing to watch out for if you fill it up all the way - don let it sit in the sun or with a hot motor - ride 20-40 km immediately then the gas has some space to expand into again and is not spilled out which could be dangerous.
A very clever man and I love watching his videos thank you❤️👀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you. The fuel tank and its fittings must be designed by an ex BMW designer...
Eres un máster 💪
Pozdrav,kako i na koji način proveriti nivo motornog ulja u agregatu??Hvala.
can you fit a GSXR750 Swingarm in to rf900