BMW N52 Starter and Intake Manifold Removal Tips

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Komentáře • 24

  • @DontBeAVictim3041
    @DontBeAVictim3041 Před rokem +1

    Highly valuable video. The care and precautions you took (the labeling, the reiterating of what goes where, etc.) absolutely saved me in terms of reassembly AND confidence that I was connecting the right sensor or connector to the right port. Invaluable to the rescuing of me from my overconfidence when taking the whole thing apart for the first time to replace the Crankshaft Sensor just underneath the Starter. I am thankful there are people who have brains that think and work like yours! I am stunned by the lack of traffic this video has received. Well done, Sir. Hail To You, Champion!
    2007 BMW 530xi

  • @HAL-1984
    @HAL-1984 Před 2 lety +2

    Nice vid which I watched after I had done this job myself!
    Only pointers I would add are that you probably want to replace the whole CCV and all hoses at the same time as you don't want to be doing this job twice! plus as you pointed out the hoses often break when you try and take them off. For UK prices: £250 for CCV and 3 hoses (BMW) plus £140 for starter (Denso).
    Removing the torx screws to the bracket for the junction box is the best idea for removal as you said but then I removed the bracket from the box after that and screwed it back on to the manifold then once the manifold had been reinstalled its much easier to just clip the junction box back onto the bracket rather than wrestle with the torx screws in a tight space again.
    I didnt bother removing the studs from the cylinder head but as you say it might be easier of you do.
    I didn't bother removing the power steering fluid tank or bracket but I did remove the fuel hose from the rail end (release pressure from rail first an have a cloth ready to soak up excess fuel)
    I found that I needed to remove the little junction box at the back of the manifold (with the four plugs) as I was not able to get to it to unclip the cables when the manifold was coming out, I could just about get to the two torx screws holding it in place though.
    Also note when reinstalling that the bottom hose to the crank case has to go behind the main power cable going to the starter, probably better to attach the top end first but I did this bottom end first which did make it quite difficult to get the top end connected once I had the manifold back near its final resting place. the other hose is also going to be easier to connect to the CCV first and then the valve cover second but again I did this the other (wrong) way around so it is still possible both ways.
    Also don't forget to note how all the wires route when youre taking it apart, especially the power to the injectors which has to thread up through the manifold.

  • @chekpoh
    @chekpoh Před 11 měsíci

    Thank you for sharing..very informative..I replaced the starter, and entire PCV system, there is very little room to work with especially the upper and lower PCV hose, your video helps tremendously.

  • @stktips
    @stktips Před rokem

    Awesome thorough video, will be watching again for manifold removal . Thank you

  • @Doobie464
    @Doobie464 Před rokem

    Great video! Quality picture, well lit and clear instructions! Thank you so much 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

  • @ecisnerosvivas
    @ecisnerosvivas Před 2 lety

    My friend: Thanks a lot for taking the time to make this detailed video, I just recently replaced the valve cover gasket and I broke the breather hose in the back of the cover, I spent about a two hours trying to release the lock and finally I to break it. That hose is a really pain in the back to get it free, the valve cover gasket replacement is a intensive labor. job and on top of that I had te remove the intake manifold to replace the hose. Y wonder hect time if a could buy a piece of copper tube, split it in half and use the two

    • @ecisnerosvivas
      @ecisnerosvivas Před 2 lety

      …and use the two halves to keep the notches unreleased while pulling the hose out with two hands.

  • @sidnum
    @sidnum Před rokem

    Very well done and informative. Thanks!

  • @MrFarfadetccc
    @MrFarfadetccc Před 2 měsíci

    A very great thanks for sharing that, it is very helpful

  • @paulalan3103
    @paulalan3103 Před 2 měsíci

    I broke the wire from the junction box to the crank case sensor under the starter on my 325i 2006 BMW. Can you do a video to replace the wire to the sensor?

  • @jules4858
    @jules4858 Před 3 lety +1

    Great tutorial on the n52 engine Can you please make some more

    • @me4I2
      @me4I2  Před 3 lety

      I can, but that means something on my car malfunctions, and I'm not looking forward to that.

  • @YuriBrazilianfly
    @YuriBrazilianfly Před 3 lety

    Just want to give shout out for a great detailed video. Thanks for taking the time for making this vid. It really helped me remembering where those 4 connections go in the back of the intake manifold. Quick question, when you re-installed the intake manifold, did you connect the the top of the bottom return hose to the CCV first then connect the bottom once the intake manifold is seated? How did you do it

    • @me4I2
      @me4I2  Před 3 lety +2

      I'm glad this video helped. I connected the top of the bottom return hose first because there's very little space to connect it once the IM is seated on the studs. I believe the bottom connection goes on the oil pan and can only be accessed with a special tool from the bottom of the car. I left that connection in place. I disconnected a total of 2 hoses for the pcv system, the one that goes to the valve cover and the top of the oil pan return line.

  • @robstudiophotography
    @robstudiophotography Před 11 měsíci

    Why you didnt film in wich way you open thant bolt? You push towards pasager side or driver side

  • @MB-oi4yp
    @MB-oi4yp Před 3 lety +1

    Thanks for making this video! I’m about to tackle my starter on my n52 as well. Do you happen to know the part number of the breather hose that broke? Might order one just in case

    • @me4I2
      @me4I2  Před 3 lety +2

      It depends on the year and model of your car since they changed the design for the n52 and n52n. I suggest going to realoem.com and searching for your vehicle specific part. For my 06 330i I used 11157522931. I went with genuine BMW because there were reviews of the aftermarket part having a shorter wire.

  • @johnfanale8714
    @johnfanale8714 Před rokem

    Very helpful... thankyou... kind regards....John

  • @annoodannoo1032
    @annoodannoo1032 Před 2 měsíci

    FWIW: I used a pick to release the ridges on the hose (czcams.com/video/p5HGLpuRWiU/video.html) instead of trying to squeeze to release as this was impossible to do for me because of the tight space. With the pick it was kind of easy. Thank you for taking your time to put this very detailed video together.

    • @annoodannoo1032
      @annoodannoo1032 Před 2 měsíci

      I meant the valve cover PCV hose at czcams.com/video/p5HGLpuRWiU/video.html in my comment.

  • @thejokerking952
    @thejokerking952 Před 2 lety

    oil return line is a pain i took my car to a shop charger me a ok price

  • @bokkkens
    @bokkkens Před 9 měsíci

    Pl

  • @Mazel_Tov_888
    @Mazel_Tov_888 Před rokem

    not looking forward to that job.

  • @bokkkens
    @bokkkens Před 9 měsíci

    I don't recommend this video because of what happens when you have to do it for the first time. I'm sorry, but I'm being honest. There was a situation when the starter had to be changed, in the yard, without experience. If you had used this video, then there is nothing to do in reality. There are no nuances! This is essential! Dude, don't fool the people.