How To Replace Floor Pans In An Old Truck (Easy Step by Step Process)
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- čas přidán 24. 08. 2024
- This is the welder I've used for 7 years now: amzn.to/2HpfbxH
If you need to buy floor pans, here is a link:
goo.gl/g1F5Gz
How to repair the rusted out floorboards on your old car or truck.
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Due to factors beyond the control of Midwest Garage, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Midwest Garage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Midwest Garage recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Midwest Garage, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Midwest Garage.
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Buy Your Floor Pans Here: goo.gl/g1F5Gz
I would love some advice on a build im restoring. Is there any email I could contact you at and possibly send a few pics? Thanks!
So you did the floor pan because it was unsafe. what about the cab mount? the thing is gone. perfect shot at 5:47 you see the rubber and frame bracket.
Hi! Really appreciated your video. Just turned 16 and have been restoring/restomodding my 66 Suburban. Its got horrible rust and I was feeling a little overwhelmed but your video makes it look alot easier than I thought before!. Great video!
Thank you for the comment! I'm now coming out with a ton of new videos, be sure to subscribe to Midwest Garage if you haven't already so that you don't miss anything! I should have a lot more helpful how-to videos in the very near future, and also share my restoration of a 1977 GMC pickup!
Nice work! I'm in the process of learning this process so I can apply it to a '78 El Camino project of mine I have to put two floor pans in. Very helpful,thanks a million!
There's no point in putting rust reformer on those cab mounts; they are long gone. Cut them out and replace them with new ones.
can u do it at this point where he has floor cut out without taking can off by just jacking it up? i have a 73 f250 that i need to do floor pan and cab mounts too but i dont want to take cab off the truck
@@CodySnell_87 yes everyone does that
@@galehess6676 thanks i ended up buying a cab from arizona mine had no floor or support left
I have to do this on my 1985 4x4 F-150. I also need to replace rocker panels.
Thank you for the video.
Great Video Sir, Just got myself an 86 custom deluxe and it needs just about everything you can think of. Not a mechanic by any means but I want to do all the work myself for the learning experience and accomplishment. Not to mention have a sweet ride when its all said and done. Your videos are definitely gonna be my go to guide if I can even figure out where to start.
Thank you! That means a lot man, I hope I can help you along with your project, it's definitely a good feeling when you can look at it and know you did all the work yourself! If you ever have questions let me know! Also, you should check out my video called "Motorcycle Restoration 101". It can maybe help you get your project started (alot of the budget and prioritizing tips apply to everything, not just motorcycles) I'll post a link.
czcams.com/video/Y7AMDc1dwfM/video.html
Midwest Garage motorcycle restoration 101
Gives me hope on my old international. Thanks.
excellent video. I have some rust, however not to this extent. I doesn't too difficult just labor intense. Thanks for posting.
The best informative repair on floor pans yet
Found this to be very helpful... Good to Go. Semper Fi!!
A nice trick for fitting accurate butt joints is to cut the floor and fit the patch like you did. Then screw it in place temporarily with one screw in each of the 4 corners so it can slide sideways. Then, scribe a mark right against the metal edge of the patch all the way around. Remove the patch. Make the second cut along the scribe mark using snips instead of the grinder (more accurate). Ideally, you can make the joint somewhere near a corner so it can be used to absorb any tension from the heat.
Patching a floor pan like this should really be done water tight. Otherwise, your lap joint will result in the same kind of failure you described with the patch dropped on top of the holes. And don't get me started on weld-through zinc primers to prevent rust. Once you burn it with the welder, there is no real protection left.
Nicely done! I'm about to start this in the next couple weeks. Luckily, my kids a weldor, so I'll stick to the prep work!
What I did for a half inch by 2 inch hole was grind it to bare metal, weld a thick metal plate over it then put fiberglass on it to make sure it doesn't get moist under there. Painted the underside with rustoleum and a brush.
Nice video. Helped me figure how hard it was gonna be to switch the floor pans in my 78
great vid. i just did this on the drivers side of my 72 chevy truck. now on to the passenger side
Thats a great idea, I've seen it done with rivets before and it works out pretty well!
Midwest Garage wheres a good place to find replacement panels for toyotas i can't find any
How much did it cost for your floor panels I have a 1970 Ford f100
They were only $40 each. I always shop at LMC for all my truck parts, they have the best inventory and best prices. They will have literally anything you need for your F100! (They don't pay me to say that, I just like them enough that I want to tell everyone about them haha.)
www.LMCTruck.com
+Midwest Garage Thank you i went to Macs auto parts and they cost way to much ill try LMC
Exactly what I am going to do with my 78 Dodge W150 4X4. However, since I do not weld, am gonna seat with gasket material and about a zillion rivets. Thanks for the video...
Thank you. This is my most likely my first step when I get my 1941 Chevy
That sounds like an awesome project, glad this video helped!
Very helpful, Future MG Midger owner here.
Cab mount is toast 🍞
I just did my 68 F100 and he missed 2 things. First off you need to bolt the floor pan down on the cab mount so you know how deep to put it. Secondly I guarantee that cab is sagging big time. Now I know he said it was just a farm truck so maybe it doesn't matter in his case. But if you are doing up a nice truck, you need to jack up that cab until it is level and that will pull down the floor pan to where it should be before any welding is done. You need to trace out that floor pan AFTER you have it bolted down on the rubber mount, and the cab jacked up to where it should be.
this is what i was looking for my cab mounting bracket is ..gone...not there... so it sounds like that is step one, fab up that out of flat stock scraps, jack the cab up to some reasonable height (possibly detach steering column to avoid damage) and work backwards from that set point. thanks ( 97 7.3 )
So you overlap the new sheet metal over the floor of the truck? How much do you overlap it and what do you do about the bottom since there would be a space for rust to start again
Look at those cab mounts! Pure rust
So if you are gonna overlap the panel and weld like you did, you have to weld the bottom side too, if not you created the same layering problem as just laying the latch over a rusty panel. There is now a hot spot for more rust.
So I ordered floor pannels set with kicker pannels floor pan cab corners theyre more square amd have big tabs
Say I'm refurbishing a vehicle (1979 second generation Pontiac Formula), that kind of is a show car. Is there a way to do this that will retain some form of the aesthetic appearance while also making it safe?
Thanks I will be doing the same thing to my 86 F350 Mod morph project.
Awesome vid buddy. I had a question for you. Are the pans not spot welded to the floor supports or anything? It seemed like your rusty old pan just kinda lifted out after you had made all your cuts.
I'm glad I found this, it appears to be a mid 60s f100 witch is exactly what mine is, just wish you had shown us how to do the cab mounts as well.
+Pete Cummins Close! This was a 1971. I was going to do cab mounts as well but this was more of a basic build than a restoration. More rust repair videos should be coming on this channel soon though!
Awsome I look forward to it. I really liked how you just overlapped the floors pan instead of cutting to exact size and butt welding it. I'm building a rat rod so details like perfect fit or hidden repairs aren't important.
Awesome! That always makes it easier too haha, and I feel like overlapping is stronger than butt welding anyway. Thanks for the comment!
8:27 AH DUDE!!! MY EYES!!! Haha!
Great job!
Very nice job and very nice video. Thanks so much!
Thanks man, I appreciate the comment! This is almost 5 years old now already, I'll have to do an updated video on the new project I have in the shop!
This is getting saved I wanna learn how to weld so bad man
I will be doing a video soon called "Welding 101". Be sure to subscribe to the channel if you haven't already so you don't miss it! Thank you for showing support!
i have a 73 f250 can i replace floor pans and front cab mounts with cab on just by jacking it up a little ? i lve replaced alot of floor pans just never on an old ford
Thank you for the video on the floor pans!My floor has only rusted a little from a carpet and I'm going to seal the small screw holes so that moisture can't enter. I used Ospho rust treatment, a rust preventive primer and I'm planning to use a black rust preventive enamal. I then will use 100% silicone on the pin holes with a little build up before placing the pan inside and welding. Do you still think I should cut out the bottom if it is completely sealed? Or, the question is, will there still be moisture in between the pans and rust out?Jim
Awesome video! Thank you!
Would you do the same thing for the bottom of the door jam and cab corners as well? And where can you buy a small welding machine?
I know this is a really late reply, but I have separate videos on doing corners and also doors.
Also, are you still looking for a small welder? I can get you a discount link if so. Thank you for the comment!
What Type of welder do you need and size stick you use. Got a 79 dodge and need to fix the floors and need to but the welder
What do you do about the lap underneath? Won't water get between the laps and cause the welds to rust?
Wow.. Great job.. Really nicely done video man.. Thank you.
+Jay Vondra Thanks for the comment!!
Do you care about the lip you left behind that would sit underneath the truck? The area you could only see from below where you cut down 1" of the original floor which would have the floor pan top edge sitting up above?
I don't know the first thing about metal work, just saw this and was curious...
Thanks,
J
good work sir
I have a 78 Ford that needs floor pans I really don't know what I'm doing as I haven't welding since 2003
Joshua Creech grinders and paint will make you the welder you ain’t
I have everything I need to do this but my kick panels are also rusted out and I have nothing to weld the outside edge of the floor pan to. Any ideas what to do? I'm thinking of welding in a patch panel to the kick panel but then the floor pan will have to be trimmed to fit.
Thanks great video 👍👍
Thank you too!
great video
Did you have any subfloor support, crossmember repair necessary?
Is it necessary to disconnect the battery ??
Yeah it’s a good idea to do that whenever welding on a vehicle. The current from the welder could potentially short out wires or overload the battery and cause damage.
I have a 93 jeep Cherokee which im having to replace the floor.
I just bought a 100a stick welder for $80 with rods and was wondering if this be good welder to use for this.
QUADRACER88 If you know what you're doing, that will definitely be enough for this job. Personally, I just used a 90 amp flux core wire feed. It's a very cheap welder but did an amazing job! The only thing I can say is that if you're going to use a cheap welder like yours or mine, use it for floor pans and other stuff that people don't regularly see. You'd wanna use something a little better if you're going to be welding in repair panels on the body or stuff like that though.
ok cool cause i don't want to spend alot on a welder. thanks for the advice
Great video, well explained. I'm replacing the drivers side floor and rocker panel on my 87 K5 Blazer. Would you recommend putting in the new floor panel first or the rocker panel first? Thanks bud.
Jr M how did it go with your k5? I have a 88' k5
I am way late to this party lol. I am buying a 51 Chevy truck and it needs the entire floor redone. The truck is a rolling chassis and the frame is in good shape as is most of the cab. Would you recommend taking the cab off to do the work on the floor?
you'll have to... if you start on one spot, you'll soon realize... just take cab off to start
My new pans do not even BEGIN to fit like your! Where did you get them? I still have another truck to go and this one has been clusterfuck since day one. But I love it.
I got mine from LMC Truck. I hope you're able to cut yours to make them fit!
How do you ensure that where the overlap is that moisture won't get between there and the new panel....from the underside?
Steve Mills I have the same question.
Same here.
Seam sealer. Looks like toothpaste but dries up nicely. It's used from the factory.
Floor sealer
most body shops like mine use 3m cavity wax after the job is complete !!!!!!! drill small hole's and insert tube and spray it heavy and use a water tight plug ,,www.autobodytoolmart.com//3m-cavity-wax-plus-p-43424.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAjwzqPcBRAnEiwAzKRgS2Yy_4oUhgTYbOQQPUldvP0fwS4q-0Nw1tDGlVVbm-tLY1gt7OwvwxoCHXoQAvD_BwE
do you weld the bottom side solid too?? thanks
Awesome vid thanks mate, very informative with no bs. Cheers bro 🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
Thanks! I’ll be doing an updated video of this soon on my next truck, the work truck revival project. It’ll be done much better stay tuned!
Did you cut your floor pan at all to make it fit, mine seems to be taller than what I need or can use due to sticking up a lot higher
I didn't cut mine, but a lot of people do cut theirs so that it fits better, or so that it will patch only what is rusted out on their original pan.
By not trimming to fit, you're creating a pocket where water can accumulate...and cause rust.
Awesome tutorial vid man. Also I just purchased a 1974 Nissan 260z, both of the floor pans are just shit from rust now. Basically would this same exact process apply to the 260z? Also could you MIG weld or would it have to be TAC?
Yup, this process is pretty standard for all vehicles. Some people have other ways of doing it but they all end with the same goal, and I find this to be the easiest way. Some people will spend time to drill holes along the edge of the pan so they can plug weld it, which is very strong but takes a lot more time. You can MIG weld it, but still have to use tack welds instead of running a straight bead, otherwise you'll start to warp the metal from too much continuous heat. Tacking it will space out the heat and keep the metal from distorting. BTW, those old Datsuns are awesome cars!!
Midwest Garage I appreciate it man. Great video hopefully I will have some video progress going up soon!
Can't wait to see! I'll be sure to keep an eye out for it!
Great tips. I have an everlast flux core welder. Can I use that or do I need to convert to mig?
nick dietz lol mig or tac :)
What about seam sealer? Did you use any?
You should have replaced the cab mounts and cut the panel off even then butt wield it you are correct about the spot wielding you should drill holes around the cab mounts and rose wield it for strength
Thank you for the tip! I've definitely learned a lot more from comments like yours over the past couple of years. My next floor replacement will mirror what you just said. Thanks again!
what ya saying about rose weld? I got a cab mount /kick plate that is gone on 97 F250, the rubber mount is there and the frame rail part, but the kick plate type area gone, trying to figure it out
nice job dawg
Awesome video! That floorpan support you cut around isn't attached to the floor pan itself, right? I'm cutting my 1967 F100 floor up and I just want to make sure I'm understanding what the hell is happening.
What year is this cab? I have a 79’ chevy dually and the pans you got say they go to a Jeep? Just curious if this is so you had more pan to work with or for some other reason. Thanks for your time in advance!
This is a 1971 F100. The pans were for that exact model of truck. If you check out LMC Truck they'll have exactly what you're looking for bud!
Thanks for helping me! I have a rusted out 1984 Ford F250XLT and a 1971 Dodge Challenger that's missing the driver's floor altogether, can I also TIG weld? Is it the same process?
TIG welding is a little different of a process, but would leave a much cleaner looking bead. If I knew how to TIG weld I'd do that any day over MIG or fluxcore! I'm glad this video helped! I have others on the channel that may be helpful also, feel free to browse around the channel!
what was your heat and speed set at for your welder?
i was wondering if you could tell me where i could get good replacement floor pans for old willys, specifically an early 50's wagon
I would check out www.WillysAmerica.com
They have all kinds of good tech info, videos, reader's rides, etc., as well as a lot of restoration parts. Their floor pans run about $100 each, which is a pretty good deal. You can also get floor pan supports from them too if your wagon is really rusted out.
Or you can always look on Ebay, they seem to have literally anything you can think of on there. Hope this helps!
Wouldn't the inch over lap create a pocket for moisture collection and create the same issue down the line? I would think you would want the overlap to be a tad less and weld on both inside and beneath to seal and prevent that issue.
You are correct. I'll be doing this again in my next work truck restoration and be showing a better way of how to do this. Keep in mind this video is very old haha. Thanks for the comment and suggestions!
what kind of welder did you use to weld the floor pan back in there..
Awesome video thank you ,i was getting ready to just cover my rust ,like you warned against ,so can you graft in your sheet metal as long as its the same gauge as the truck came with ?
Thank you for the comment, I'm glad I could help! Yup you can graft it in as long as it's the same gauge and as long as all of the rust is gone so that it doesn't start up again.
Don't forget to pull the fuel tank out of inside of your truck.
Was that a regular mig welder? I was told I needed to use shielding gas to do this job.
I'm putting pans in today for the first time. Does anything need to be done to the underside after the install? If I leave a 1-inch weld lip, I'll have a moisture trap beneath, won't I? My plan is to just shoot it with rust reformer.
+Hambone McGillicutty The lip will be a pretty tight fit against eachother, but you could use a seam sealer if you want. One thing that you can do as well (that I should have done) is use weld-through primer on both sides of the sheet metal before welding the pan into place. Also, a rust reformer or primer/paint would seal it up real nice too once you're finished. That should fix any problems you would have in the future with rust starting on the lips!
At the 2 min mark, when you are tracing, what is the long line around the shifter? Is that a weld also? or some bondo?
kEEGAN Edwards I had removed that panel to work on the shifter and top of transmission and went kind of generous on the gasket sealer haha, so thats all that is.
look at those fornt cab mounts !!!!
I've heard of others using a spot weld cutter attachment and drilling through each weld before cutting the floor out. Is this unneeded?
+drummerben04 If the floor you're replacing is on a nice vehicle, then yeah that's the correct way. Most body shops will use that method. If you're just trying to replace a floor though, and don't need it to be perfect, cutting out all the spot welds is kind of a waste of time in my opinion.
I was wondering what you have for a welder? I have a small mig with no shielding gas. Will it work on on sheet metal?
Yes as long as it will weld hot enough to weld them together your good. You have to use flux core wire(has shielding gas inside of wire itself)
I gotta do this for my 85 el camino. damn new york winters.
hey, looks like you fixed that problem. What's next? I have the same model f series truck and I am about to do the same thing. Where did you get your floor pans? I can't seem to find a pair anywhere. LMC truck and Ebay didn't have any.
I got mine from LMC for a great price. I can't imagine they stopped selling them, I'd check again.
I have another video that shows the full project, and everything that I did after I fixed the floor pans. You should check it out! Here's the link: czcams.com/video/E3i0Ld3RDxU/video.html
broncograveyard.com also has them
thanks for sharing good luck on " pawpaws truck"......S
Did you use flux core to do your welding or gas shielded solid wire
Flux Core.
question .......
so when the beads are all done how much are you supposed to grind off???
I have been stuck in cases like these where I grind off too much and it will weaken the weld any suggestions???
I'm not the best welder, so I know exactly what you mean! Basically, if your welds are hot enough and going all the way through (not just sticking on top of the metal), then you can grind them all the way smooth with the surface and it will be as strong as a solid sheet of steel. However, I know that doesn't happen too often if you're not an expert. What I did was knocked the welds down to about 1/16 of an inch above the sheet metal. This keeps it strong, and alleviates the problem of possibly grinding through your welds. It's not perfect, but with carpet going over the floor pans, no one would notice, and you'd have a strong, solid fix. I hope this helps, if not I can try to elaborate more. Thanks for the comment!
Hey how much is a typical older floor pan? I just bought a 94 F150 that I want to fix up, just trying to gauge what to replace and what to fix.
+Michael Russo I always use www.LMCTruck.com, they have the best prices I could find and the best selection. Floorpans for your truck from LMC would cost around $30-$60 each I think.
Hey I have a 1977 Dodge power wagon and I had a couple questions. I replaced both front cab supports. they were both rusted out. The cab still sits low in the front. also is a gap in between the cab and front fenders from the floor being pushed up. I was wondering if I should jack up the front so its level first and then replace the floor pans?? but also I have nothing solid to really jack on so I was going to replace both rockers and was wondering if I should do rockers first and then floor pans second?? Thanks and good video btw!
+Joseph Bredow Thanks! I would cut out the floor pans first, that should give you a better look at why the cab is sitting low. From there you can decide on how to fix the leveling problem. As for the rockers/floor pan problem, I actually have a video on how to tackle that. The video is kind of poor quality but it gets the point across! Here is the link: czcams.com/video/75rgU3evB7s/video.html
If you do have to jack up the cab to level it out, use a really long 2x4, it should help disperse the weight evenly along the whole side so you don't mess up your rockers too bad.
Hope this helps! I love those old Power Wagons by the way!
+Midwest Garage
Thanks for the advice! I didn't know how to tackle this little project but your videos helped a lot and the advice did to so I have a good idea how to do it now. now I just need time to do it lol. I think I got a amazing deal for $450 and I drove it home almost 50miles and driving it almost everyday. If you wanna see it you can email me Josephbredow@hotmail.com Thanks again for your help!
Where did you get your floor pans from?
What kind/ size wire are you using for welding and what settings
.024 wire. Settings special to your machine. I turn heat setting down low and slow wire speed to a hum. Your probably going to burn holes if your just a hobbyist like me. Be patient
Did you use a mig or tig welder?
+nick256111 I used a flux core wire feeder. I'll be making a video soon explaining the pros and cons of that machine compared to normal MIG & TIG welding.
What kind of welder do you have and specs.
I have it linked in the description. It's a MIG 130. 110V flux core welder. You can check out that link and get all the specs on it. I really like the welder, I use it pretty regularly and have had it for 6 years now. Still going strong!
What is the LMC part number for the driver side floor pan that you bought? I need to order one. Thank you!!!
I can't remember the part number off the top of my head. But if you go to www.LMCTruck.com and look up the floor pan for your specific vehicle you should be able to order it up right there. Hope this helps!
How do you change the hole floore
How did you go about re-carpeting the floor?
This old truck didn't have carpeted floors, so I left it metal, painted it and replaced the floor mats.
What kind of wire did you use on what setting gas or gasless?
I was wondering the same thing
Hi there Midwest Garage, (or anyone who can help) I need to replace the floor pans in my 1989 Chevy S10 Regular Cab, I am just wondering if you or anyone has some fool proof tips for me or special things to look out for as I take on this journey of rust and repairs! I also only have a stick/arc welder, will that do the job? or should I opt for rivets instead.. Thanks, great video!
+Megan Vardy I am also doing the rocker panels, which should I do first? Thanks!
+Megan Vardy Your stick/arc welder will be plenty for this job. I replaced these floor pans with a cheap flux core wire feed welder and they are stronger than from the factory! I also have a video on replacing rockers + floor pans, and which to do first. The video is kind of poor quality, but it gets the point across, I hope this helps!
Here's the link to replacing rockers and floor pans: czcams.com/video/75rgU3evB7s/video.html
+Megan Vardy Also, if you run in to any trouble areas, you can either private message Midwest Garage, or comment on here, and I'll do my best to help out!
thanks so much ill definitely keep tht n mind in the next few weeks when I take the task on!
Great job man! How is the floor doing?
Thanks! We ended up selling this old hog unfortunately, 2wd trucks just don't work up here. But after it was finished it was a great truck! The floor was strong and the truck was rust free!
how many tap welds was that
Oof, hundreds of them. There are better ways to do it too which I’ll be showing soon when I redo the floor on my next work truck revival project.
can you rivet around the pan, and weld another day?
+nazario4131 Absolutely. I've seen actual floor pans be installed with just rivets, and when done correctly it comes out really nice.
What causes the rust there....water thru door seales
My 1984 S10 gas tank is underneath, should I take it off?
Is it an S10 blazer? If so, it might be a good idea to remove it if you will be welding on top of it. And make sure you cover all the open lines so that no fumes are escaping. If it is an S10 pickup however, I think I remember the tank being behind the cab a decent ways, so you should be fine leaving it in. Thanks for sharing the video!
Do you not neaten up the welds after you're done?
I mentioned "cleaning up the edges and then adding paint and primer" at around 9:30. Plus it was just a $400 work truck so I wasn't too concerned about it.
Sorry, good work...
What type of welder was that? Flux or mig gas setup?
That was just a simple flux core welder.
Also, what do you use to grind away rust?
+Michael Russo I use a wire wheel on an angle grinder for grinding away rust because it's soft enough where it won't take away any of the solid metal that isn't rusted, a cutting wheel for cutting out the really bad rust, and a flap wheel on the angle grinder for knocking down welds. Hope this helps!
+Midwest Garage actually that is perfect. thanks!