Looks great. I used to do work for a company that built vacuum frames. You should flip over the gas cylinders so that the large diameter outer tube is at the top. The reason is there is a very small amount of oil in the cylinder. It is used to lubricate the gas seal which prevents the gas from leaking out. It will greatly extend their life. You may also want to see if you can hunt down a Gast oil-less vac. pump-completely re-buildable and no oil needed.
Let's say you have a green, white and black coming from the extension cord. Splice the white, and solder on three wires. Cover up the solder with some shrink tube or electrical tape. Repeat for the green and black wires. To wire in a switch for each power source, cut the white wire (whichever is supplying the 120v) and make it go into the switch and then back out to whatever it needs to power. The switch acts sort of as a "pit stop" for the electricity.
@Ruben Ryapolov i've got them both working by themselves and twisted together to a source, so i know they work & so do the bulbs.... Will def post a vid soon, could do an InProgress one later tonight for sure.
You should have 3 wires coming from the extension cord. Once you split each of the three wires, you should have 9 total (3 for the lamps, 3 for the pump, 3 for the yellow lights).
...I tried twisting the RED,BLUE,ballast blacks and ballast whites to one nut with the digi BLACK to the black jumper and digi green to ground jumper. this also provided no light and no tripped circuit breaker when pressing On/Off. I feel I've tried everything, a bit overwhelmed. I'm now a few hundred dollars in and plenty of hours of work, would hate to get stumped by this n.n;
Great video! Thanks for uploading. Building one myself and aside from my confusion with the basic wiring, how did you go about wiring the vacuum? If you could explain the wiring for this set up (which is awesome by the way), that would really help us out a lot. Have only seen one wiring for exposure units and definitely none with a vacuum pump. Keep up the great job and many thanks again.
also tried feed line in to BLACK, ballast whites to BLUE and ballast blacks to RED, which didn't turn the lights on when plugging in but also didn't turn them on or pop the breaker when pressing On/Off, just no response from the lamps at all. Then tried feed>BLACK, ballast whites>RED, ballast blacks>BLUE and same thing, no tripped breaker no light in lamps. I then noticed when touching the digi BLUE to RED it activates the timer, so...
How did you wire the timer to the ballasts? I've purchased the exact same items from your build thread and duplicated one of these on a slightly smaller scale. I have a switch+outlet duplex to operate a safe bulb w/a constant outlet for a box fan to dry screens underneath since I emulsify and print in the same room. Then the digi timer is jumpered black from feed+duplex+safe bulb nut, ground jumpered from feed+duplex ground nut, and neutral jumpered from feed+duplex+safe bulb nut...
Do you remember how you wired it or are you able to take the cover panel off and pull your receptacles out and see? I don't have much to shoot a video of now but I'm about to do a small intro anyway.
@n1kVoicebox What I did it go an extension cord, cut off the end and stripped the wires. Then I split the power wires into three wires. Now I have three separate power sources. One for yellow (which I never use so I would say don't put it in, waste of space), exposure bulbs, and vacuum pump (I recommend oil less!).
Ruben, I looked but did not see a small detail. Forgive me if I overlooked it. What is the thickness of the glass you used? Obviously it is unfiltered glass, but I am not sure what thickness to order. Great build BTW!
+Jose P Via a tire shrader valve (I took out the valve inside the shrader valve). People use it for wheels to pump air into tires. Any auto store will have what you need (Napa, O'Reilly, Autozone, Baxter) or hardware store.
+SeeJay's Place (seejaysplace) I had to buy it online, don't remember where. But mine does minutes and seconds. Check the build thread. Still works great! It wasn't expensive around $10.
+Edward Visionprint I had to buy it online, don't remember where. But mine does minutes and seconds. Check the build thread. Still works great! It wasn't expensive around $10.
Does anyone know where you can buy the same lights in the U.K. Because shipping from the US is too expensive and I can't seem to find them on amazon or EBay. Or at least I don't want to chance buying the wrong ones...
@n1kVoicebox Post a vid tonight. Think of the switch as a interruption. Say you have a wire, cut it in half. When you touch the wires together, the light turns on. When you let go, they turn off. Put the switch into that wire break.
Much much more detail when exposing and honestly much easier to use and it is also user friendly. There are 1000 more reasons but I only have 500 characters to use in this comment :p
@n1kVoicebox Ok. First thing you want to do is get at least one ballast working without a switch or anything. Can you do that? Connect the ballast directly to a power source. Make sure you're following the wiring diagrams on the ballast. Also, please post a video! I'd like to see your build!
Yes but you will need to have a sliding door to cover the lamp while it warms up and stuff. Metal Halide is much better if you get the right bulb, the right power source etc. I myself haven't had time to figure it out yet and frankly don't want to buy a $500 bulb yet.
Looks great. I used to do work for a company that built vacuum frames. You should flip over the gas cylinders so that the large diameter outer tube is at the top. The reason is there is a very small amount of oil in the cylinder. It is used to lubricate the gas seal which prevents the gas from leaking out. It will greatly extend their life. You may also want to see if you can hunt down a Gast oil-less vac. pump-completely re-buildable and no oil needed.
Let's say you have a green, white and black coming from the extension cord. Splice the white, and solder on three wires. Cover up the solder with some shrink tube or electrical tape. Repeat for the green and black wires. To wire in a switch for each power source, cut the white wire (whichever is supplying the 120v) and make it go into the switch and then back out to whatever it needs to power. The switch acts sort of as a "pit stop" for the electricity.
@Ruben Ryapolov i've got them both working by themselves and twisted together to a source, so i know they work & so do the bulbs.... Will def post a vid soon, could do an InProgress one later tonight for sure.
@Ruben Ryapolov I have one 14-2 Romex w/an outlet plug from the wall for power feed, which has an extra jumper on pos neg and ground for the digii
You should have 3 wires coming from the extension cord. Once you split each of the three wires, you should have 9 total (3 for the lamps, 3 for the pump, 3 for the yellow lights).
Harbor Freight. Before you ask questions, please look through the build thread.
Ruben Ryapolov thanks for video
What is it called bro? The black fabric for the vacuum?
do you have blueprints or a materials table. also how many ballasts did you use to connect the Bulbs
Pretty cool
Nice build
...I tried twisting the RED,BLUE,ballast blacks and ballast whites to one nut with the digi BLACK to the black jumper and digi green to ground jumper. this also provided no light and no tripped circuit breaker when pressing On/Off. I feel I've tried everything, a bit overwhelmed. I'm now a few hundred dollars in and plenty of hours of work, would hate to get stumped by this n.n;
Great video! Thanks for uploading. Building one myself and aside from my confusion with the basic wiring, how did you go about wiring the vacuum? If you could explain the wiring for this set up (which is awesome by the way), that would really help us out a lot. Have only seen one wiring for exposure units and definitely none with a vacuum pump. Keep up the great job and many thanks again.
also tried feed line in to BLACK, ballast whites to BLUE and ballast blacks to RED, which didn't turn the lights on when plugging in but also didn't turn them on or pop the breaker when pressing On/Off, just no response from the lamps at all.
Then tried feed>BLACK, ballast whites>RED, ballast blacks>BLUE and same thing, no tripped breaker no light in lamps.
I then noticed when touching the digi BLUE to RED it activates the timer, so...
@Ruben Ryapolov trying to figure out how to wire the digi to power feed and how to wire ballasts to digi
WERE I CAN BUY THE VACCUM BLANCKET
whats the distance between the bulbs safe light and florescence? I have the base built need help with the spacing very nice build thanks
How did you wire the timer to the ballasts? I've purchased the exact same items from your build thread and duplicated one of these on a slightly smaller scale. I have a switch+outlet duplex to operate a safe bulb w/a constant outlet for a box fan to dry screens underneath since I emulsify and print in the same room. Then the digi timer is jumpered black from feed+duplex+safe bulb nut, ground jumpered from feed+duplex ground nut, and neutral jumpered from feed+duplex+safe bulb nut...
Do you remember how you wired it or are you able to take the cover panel off and pull your receptacles out and see? I don't have much to shoot a video of now but I'm about to do a small intro anyway.
Hello please can you help me with the circuit of this diy exposure unit
would just have the fluoro lamps always on... even when digi read "OFF," pressing the On/Off button would then pop the breaker.
@n1kVoicebox What I did it go an extension cord, cut off the end and stripped the wires. Then I split the power wires into three wires. Now I have three separate power sources. One for yellow (which I never use so I would say don't put it in, waste of space), exposure bulbs, and vacuum pump (I recommend oil less!).
Hi great diy could you tell about fabric which you used
For Vaccum Exposing
where u get the vacuum? and u can post the materials fot the tap i have my table ligth im just want put that thing whit the vacuum
Thank you Sir
How you connected bulb in series or parllel ?
about how much did it cost in materials, total, to build??
Ruben, I looked but did not see a small detail. Forgive me if I overlooked it. What is the thickness of the glass you used? Obviously it is unfiltered glass, but I am not sure what thickness to order. Great build BTW!
+Rob King 1/4" but you could use thicker.
@Ruben Ryapolov I'm not sure I follow you, so you have 3 separate cords to plug into the wall that power each element individually?
amigo que motor es el que estas usando para esta caja de revelado ?
Thank you kind sir!
how far apart are the bulbs spaced?
Blue Gecko ...how far away from the glass should the lights be ?
Hancock Screenprinting The last video I watched said 2 inches
+musicgeeks12 Thanks for helping out!
i am buying a vaccume exposure from where
what are the materials did you use sir and what leather did u use?
where did you purchase the heavy duty gas shocks to hold up the cover
+Gabrielle Mitchell My dad has a damaged car lot. Just grabbed them from under a hood of a random car.
Hi
pl. Tell the thickness of Glass
Can you please explain how u connected the pump , please
+Jose P Via a tire shrader valve (I took out the valve inside the shrader valve). People use it for wheels to pump air into tires. Any auto store will have what you need (Napa, O'Reilly, Autozone, Baxter) or hardware store.
im in the process of building one right now. can you tell me the thickness of the neoprene
+Ruth Tiernan Not sure, I bought it from ScreenPrinting.com
I made it.
where did you get that timer, I'm trying to find one for my box!
+SeeJay's Place (seejaysplace) I had to buy it online, don't remember where. But mine does minutes and
seconds. Check the build thread. Still works great! It wasn't expensive
around $10.
Whats up Bro! whats the price if you make one for ya boy?
Nice Job!, where did you get the timer?
+Edward Visionprint I had to buy it online, don't remember where. But mine does minutes and seconds. Check the build thread. Still works great! It wasn't expensive around $10.
HI, where did you get the cover?
1/4 thick.
Does anyone know where you can buy the same lights in the U.K. Because shipping from the US is too expensive and I can't seem to find them on amazon or EBay. Or at least I don't want to chance buying the wrong ones...
$600, but instead of wood, aluminum and steel. Much better.
Stop being ignorant and read the description.
do you speak russian?
@n1kVoicebox Post a vid tonight. Think of the switch as a interruption. Say you have a wire, cut it in half. When you touch the wires together, the light turns on. When you let go, they turn off. Put the switch into that wire break.
Much much more detail when exposing and honestly much easier to use and it is also user friendly. There are 1000 more reasons but I only have 500 characters to use in this comment :p
@n1kVoicebox Ok. First thing you want to do is get at least one ballast working without a switch or anything. Can you do that? Connect the ballast directly to a power source. Make sure you're following the wiring diagrams on the ballast. Also, please post a video! I'd like to see your build!
Yes but you will need to have a sliding door to cover the lamp while it warms up and stuff. Metal Halide is much better if you get the right bulb, the right power source etc. I myself haven't had time to figure it out yet and frankly don't want to buy a $500 bulb yet.