I've been "fixing" my bike months hah. New carbon handlebars, stem, seat post, saddle.. groupset, shifters, cabling.. tubes and tyres.. it never ends! I keep buying the wrong things. For instance, installing those microSHIFT shifters and cheapo Chinese derailleur without realising now I don't have a barrel adjuster for indexing. no adjuster on the derailleur?! Jesus 🙄 Mind you, not much else to work on when in lockdown and it's pissing with rain 😂 be well, ride safe!
For real! I tried fixing up my brand new bike and ended up tipping it over by accident and chippped one of my break levers! I have bad luck with mountain bikes!😐
@Hartley Hare just like that eh 😆 what can happen with levitating bikes is the chain stays get knocked out of alignment, a bad thing. With steel you can coax it back but aluminium I dunno, carbon I do believe it's totally dickered but it should just snap. Or the wheel is bent, that may be fixed with trueing I suppose. Ah well. So much for flying bikes eh 😅
Thanks for this video! You've really explained this well. I've been searching for various instructional videos on bike repair lately and I'm glad to say this is it. I've just ordered the bottom bracket removal tool so now I know exactly what I need to do.
I had the same problem with my Cannondale CAAD12 from the start ! Praxis is one of the best choices out there, but if to stretch budget a little bit more I would go for custom Hambini - his BB's just rocks, unbelievable performance - Aerospace tolerances, guarantee a no slop fit with good retention, One Piece design is inherently creak free, ultra low friction bearings, No Hammers to install or remove
Those are the biggest advantages of the Hambini over others like BBInfinite, Praxis , etc, you don’t need a hammer to pound the thing out of your frameset, and his tolerances are simply the best in the biz because his own name and rep are on the line. Also, his one piece BB is the easiest install and remove of any BB on the planet. I would never put an overpriced Praxis or BBInfinite BB into one of my frames. BBInfinite is a joke. Skateboard quality Enduro bearings marketed to gullible fools, and sold as if they are aerospace quality. And the BBInfinite service instructions say to use an air-hammer to assist with removing their overpriced junk BB. An air-hammer. ROTFLMFAO. Hambini all the way. If you ever have an issue with a Hambini BB you can actually communicate with the guy, who designed and machined it as well.
@@avenpace His tolerances aren't "Aerospace" you idiot. They are the bicycle industry tolerances i.e. 0.005" or 0.01mm fit. Stop peddling that lie as it gives bicycle manufacturers an excuse not to deliver their products with the required tolerances observed.
Excellent! I had to work with most of the Loctite products before I retired, especially 609. Make sure you use the 609 here to allow removal later if needed. In the old days before we had Loctite 609 we often used......clear nail polish! Seriously! Dont know if it would work here as it has acetone and I would not want it to contact an epoxy-carbon frame. Also your application of the 609 is right on. Too many people apply way too much and it then glops out everywhere (like perhaps into the bearings here). In this application you only need a film of it like you applied . I also have to commend you on talking about the cure time! Most people say it 'dries' in 24 hours. There is no drying, it is a chemical reaction and thus it cures. Finally, this chemical reaction takes place anaerobically, so when you are done do not squeeze the bottle before capping it to get the air out 'so the bottle lasts longer' like I have often seen. Just use it, wipe off the bottle threads if any spilled, and put the cap back on. You have great videos.
I work at FSA and we have been doing some experiments in the shop focusing in creaking noise from the BB. We used Loc Tite 380 (Black) on one of these bikes. It holds as well as 609 and does not cause issues with removal later. The great thing about 380 is that it expands and becomes sort if like a rubber texture as it cures. This fills micro voids between the cup/bearing and it's contact surface better. FSA is not going to republish it's documents to change to recommending 380 but here in the U.S. office this is what we do with our own bikes, demo/show bikes and the rare repair we do for anyone locally we may work with. Good video by the way. I have directed people to your channel for tips on doing there own repairs
Thank you for directing people to my vid. Joe. Thanx for the tip on Loctite 380 black,I will definitely investigate it. So FSA may recomend Loctite 380 soon after some testing?
@@stevenleffanue I dont think the company as a whole will ever officially recomend 380 as we already have thousands of BB instructions printed but it is definatly the preferance of the staff here in the United States office for those of us with BB30 or PF30 frames. Several bike makers will be making the change to T47 over the next couple of years and letting go of all the press fit standards. FSA now has a T47 bottom bracket that we make since so many bike companies have asked us to make one. It seems to be the future.
@@stevenleffanue your videos are clear, well thought out, informative and professional. The riders I have directed to your channel for help love it because you are a rider like them working in your garage instead of a stuffy corparate video in a studio. I will continue to guide people to your channel if it is ok with you.
@@joeottsoulbikes415 T47 is the future as long as bike manufacturers are unable to achieve or are unwilling to invest in proper quality assurance, but it's essentially just another set of press fit adapters, when all's said and done.
Literally after the first 20 seconds of the video it has helped me identify and confirm the issue with my bike... I have a carbon bike and thought there might be a frame issue. But after hearing the creak from your bottom bracket, it's exactly the same as mine.
Nice job on the video - very well done. After replacing the bot bracket bearings, most of the remaining creak on my bike went away after greasing and re-torquing the chain ring bolts. I also filed down a small burr (1/2mm high) on one of the rings where it contacted the spider.
Finally! You’ve nailed it. You described the noise I’ve been hearing perfectly. I have been dealing with a noise (that drives me nuts!), and my bike repair keeps trying to convince me it’s a chain issue. I knew better. While I wouldn’t tackle something of this difficulty, I can now tell THEM what it is. Thanks for giving me the knowledge to finally get my quiet ride back 😃
I spent close to 300 USD in three different bike shops to nail down/fix annoying creaking noise. They replaced my pedals, cassette, bottom bracket and full headset service and still the noise wouldn't go away. One mechanic even suggested I learn to live with it as it's possible I have a defective frame. I spent hours on google and watching videos trying to see what else could be done. One youtube commenter suggested putting grease around the seat post clamp. I thought it can't be that simple. Plus one shop has already put grease on the seat post but not on the clamp. So I removed the clamp, cleaned it and reinstalled with fresh grease. Went for a test ride. Lo and behold, NO MORE NOISE. I was ecstatic. I was speechless. I thanked God.
Super video. I had to do the same thing on my trek madone bb90. One thing I have had issues with is lightweight skewers not clamping the wheels tightly enough casing the rear wheel to creak.
5 years of CX with jet washing, multiple FSA BBs, no creaking. Bought tools. Got top quality replacement bearings ready (Hambini), but so far no need. Damn, looking forward to dealing with it when it happens But agree, it’s a terrible system, designed to save money for the manufacturer at the expense of the rider
My creaking when standing up was my front wheel skewer. I have to put grease and lock it super tight to prevent creaking but even after a while it starts again.
Perfect Video, Thank you so much,😊 you not just told the solution you also told it's mechanism and how it Damaged by the time, That's very knowledgeable😊😊
The more recent videos about this discuss the contact area of the pedal spindle, with the inner race of the bearings. You can sometimes see marking on the axle where it mates with the bearing, you can actually this at 9mins and 8 seconds in this video. Apparently fine grit finds its way there, or lack of lube, one of the causes of creaking. Interestingly that doesn't seem to happen on threaded set ups.
Great video as always. I'm planning to buy second hand an 2012 orbea orca. I believe is similar to the one you have. It is fairly in good condition with little mileage. Do you have any specific advice on the bike? Thanks
Very good demonstration, thank you. My bottom bracket slightly different but principal the same. Will have to see when I take it apart, Mine started clicking after only a few hundred miles.
Very hard to locate where the creacking sound comes from sometimes when you are riding the bike. I tought it was the press fit bottom bracket that where creacking on my road bike, upgraded to carbon wheels and the sound was gone. It was from the wheels. Probably the trough axle that was dry. On my full suspension, the creacking sound came from the pedals. Again I belived it was from the bottom bracket, a threaded bottom bracket in this case. My advice is to grease everything, before you remove the crank and work on the bottom bracket.
Really informative. I was hit with this plague after a near death experience where a driver almost ran me over even though I had the right of way. If it wasn't for me gripping my breaks and sliding I would've been in the hospital. Shortly after that stupid event I heard cracking noises whenever I would pedal. I commute to work and I was scared that the frame or something was cracked so I walked the rest of the way. I googled and CZcamsd for solutions and your video helped me out the most.
For your information. I've just received the first onepiece converter, from PF30 to 386EVO, from Hambini Engineering. I opted for a onepiece sleeve enabling you to replace the bearings yourself. Could not find one on the market, so Hambini made me a custom one. As I have an almost all black Cannondale Supersix EVO HiMod, I had it anodized in black locally. I bought the carbon primer and retaining compound from Park Tools. The primer, AP-1, equals Loctite 7649, the retaining compound RC-1 equals Loctite 680. From Park Tools they are pretty costly, so if you can find Loctite products cheaper, buy them instead. Installing cups are provided by Hambini, you just need a homemade press tool like the one shown in the video above, only with a longer threaded rod as you start wider, sleeve and shell width. Rgr
@@gokaygs Fully OK. Sometimes I can have a clicking sound, but I think it´s the pedals, Speedplays, crying for new bearings, or a antifriction lubrication.. I´d buy again if facing same problem, the onepiece design must be better than anything twopiece. Rgr
Down with press-fit! Seems like a nightmare and only for pros with full time help. I will say that one of the strangest “creaks” I ever discovered was from a COG. COGs and skewers are a good place to start once you rule out your cleats/pedals.
Thanks mate , I took apart the bottom bracket using a crank puller and then the wrachet and cyclo cartridge bottom bracket tool I took everything out cleaned and put on a good amount of grease and put it back together , the halfords crank puller was too tight a fit so I bought one on ebay and it was fine , now its smooth and no creak so thanks again 👍
Press Fit cups that set on each side are prone to creaking. Get a nice locking Press Fit bottom from Praxxis, RaceFace or others that thread together in the middle making one continuous piece. I have multiple bikes with these type of locking bottoms and never have had a creak without using any Locktite.
My new giant escape had a very loud click in tune with the right pedal revolution. It was so loud it would reverberate off the walls of any buildings on my route. Dealer tried as we both thought it was the bottom bracket/crank arms without any luck. 3 months later I've finally found the issue, the derailleur hanger bracket screws were loose. Two tiny M3 CSK hex head screws ! Not totally backed out but they were probably never tightened from the factory. I pulled the bracket off, applied some finish line grease to the bracket/frame interface and all is silent now. Saved myself from buying a new crankset for nothing as the sound certainly sounded like it was eminating from that area.
I had it too on my bike with a bb 30 . I brought it too the bike shop and they put an aftermarket wheels manufacturing mfg bb 30 assembly but it still creacked . Then i fixed it myself with loctite 243 from work . Unscrewed the wheels bb 30 cleaned it with degreaser and put 243 loctite threadlocker problem solved . I put it only between the aluminium bottembracket shell and the wheels assembly . Because its made of 7075 aluminium not much chance of creak , i assume most standard bottombrackets that come with bikes are of a too weak aluminium , thus causing the outerrace being able to move in the frame . So if the cups are of a sufficient high quality alu alloy , it might be enough to just put loctite between the cup and the bottombracket itself . In this way you are sure the bearings and spindle come out easy. Loctite 243 is very strong but the other type might be even better .
Thank you, I've only just installed a threaded BB into an aluminium frame and its developed a creek after 900kms. Used liberal amounts of lithium grease so maybe I've over torqued them. Will try Loctite as 609 is non hardening.
Thank you so much for including what a creak sounds like. took me so long to find one!!!! But i do have a question, i dont get a creak but when im in my smallest rear cog, I feel like i hear the ball bearings of my bb90 hitting themselves. Any opinion about that?
Difficult to diagnose from a distance. Try the easy things first like tighten QR skewers,pedals,crank bolts,chainring studs,etc, before pulling bearings out.
Hi all, my roadbike was exactly the same creaking noise, and was not bottom bracket at all😜. I just tightened up small chainring bolts and sound gone🤩🤩🤩drive me mad that creaking sound for year😂
Other potential creak sources include negative thoughts, fatty foods, low barometric pressure, high solar flux, and a passive-aggressive bike. (Sorry, that last one is redundant.) Great video! I'll be doing all the things you demonstrated this weekend.
Another spot creaking happens is the intersection flats where spokes cross each other. My theory is, rust/tarnish forms from washing my bike and those tight spots do not dry sufficiently allowing corrosion to form. Using Tri-Flow, placing a drop at each intersection then squeezing the two overlapping spokes a few times, stopped the spoke noise creaking. (Just another tip)
Wouldn't tapping out the bearings un-uniformly warp the cups a little? Rather than one of those tri-spoked flanged tools that puts more equal pressure and taps them out pretty straight?
Recently put the truvativ bb30 in my 2012 supersix and developed a bottom bracket creak 😭😭. I put back the old ngks. Back to normal for now. The noise was caused by internal bearing failure. It was notchy out the box. I would check for race smothness before condemning bb30 bearings. Be sure bearing go in smooth and flush with snap rings.
I had that with some Rotor BSA30 BB cups (30mm spindle with BSA threaded external BB). Didn't think of the Loctite solution -the LBS pulled the bearings out of the cups. regreased and reinserted them, but that lasted only until after the next wet ride. Ended up replacing entire BB unit. Will go Loctite 609 next time it happens.
I never seen anyone applying Loctite on spinde! Unfortunately bike manufacturers are selling shit quality frames with poor tolerances. I was struggling with brand new Focus Cayo just few weeks after purchase. After 3 various tries of various BB PF30 replacement (including Loctite, finally I fitted PraxisWorks expanding BB system, which fixed issue (I had to replace the whole Sram crank system to Shimano 24mm spindle). Shell openings are not round in 99% of frames, there are drilled separately in factory aren't centric (even worse). Best frames are Time and LOOK.
I thought my bike had a creaking BB. When I finally got around to dealing with it and started cleaning off the frame at the BB shell, I discovered what was making the creaking noise was actually a crack in my aluminum frame, around the back of the seat tube, just above the weld with the BB shell. Not a happy day. 😢
Great, informative video, as we have come to expect from Oz Cycle :-) Just wondering... I have an aluminium sleeve in my carbon bottom bracket shell but my bottom bracket is a sealed plastic BB30 unit. Is the Loctite going to be OK for plastic bottom bracket cups (or adapters as Shimano call them)?
@@stevenleffanue thanks for the reply... I am glad I asked as I was ready to go with the Loctite ☺ What kind of liquid rubber? Can you recommend a specific product? I have never even heard of it LOL
I absolutely hate press fit BBs! Last year I bought a bike which had that and almost immediately it started creaking. After returning it to manufacturer for a fix and waiting far longer than I would have liked, it still was creaking. So I just returned it and got myself a much cheaper used mountain bike with normal Hollowtech II bottom bracket that is easy to remove and work with and never creaks! I hope threaded brackets will make a come back cause threadless ones are impractical and harder to maintain.
The press fit BB30 on my Felt F5 started creaking after about 6 months. Got the cheap tools from Chain Reaction online store, and a set of $24 ceramic Chinese bearings from ebay. Pressed em in and away she went, no creaks.... until it rained, 3 months later. Took it apart again, cleaned and greased them and pressed em back in with plenty of grease. Then as I was about to put the crank set back in, I thought... you wouldn't put a motor bike crank case together without oil in it would you? So, out came the anti corrosion penetrating oil called Inox. I just added about one or two desert spoons of oil into the housing between the bearings. Because there is no oil pressure, the bearing seals keep the oil inside and when or if the bearings move they soon get oil into the spaces. Two years later and all is well. No creaks and no corrosion, at nearly no cost. Cheers. And the bearings are very happy..lol.
I am a casual rider so I am not that hardcore but when my bike was creaking, I took the dust cap thing on the crank arm off and pour a ton of chain lube in there and the creaking stopped. Lol don't know what that was about but happy it stopped.
Skewers are one of the biggest causes of creaking. Guys often think it is their BB, and it’s often just a matter of properly torquing the skewers. Same thing with crank arms and cassette lock rings, improperly torqued or greased they are often the cause of perceived BB creaks.
Yes it works well for a while but deforms under the alternating load stresses which means the cup/bearing will move ever so slightly again yet it may still not creak. Loctite stops the movement.
Oh man that must be such a nice feeling. Every time I try and fix my bike I gets worse or something else breaks. 😢
I've been "fixing" my bike months hah. New carbon handlebars, stem, seat post, saddle.. groupset, shifters, cabling.. tubes and tyres.. it never ends! I keep buying the wrong things. For instance, installing those microSHIFT shifters and cheapo Chinese derailleur without realising now I don't have a barrel adjuster for indexing. no adjuster on the derailleur?! Jesus 🙄 Mind you, not much else to work on when in lockdown and it's pissing with rain 😂 be well, ride safe!
@@ollieb9875 nice to know it's not just me.
For real! I tried fixing up my brand new bike and ended up tipping it over by accident and chippped one of my break levers! I have bad luck with mountain bikes!😐
@Hartley Hare just like that eh 😆 what can happen with levitating bikes is the chain stays get knocked out of alignment, a bad thing. With steel you can coax it back but aluminium I dunno, carbon I do believe it's totally dickered but it should just snap. Or the wheel is bent, that may be fixed with trueing I suppose. Ah well. So much for flying bikes eh 😅
Lol me too
I don't even have the same crank setup and I still watched the whole video. haha! Excellent video.
Thanks for this video! You've really explained this well. I've been searching for various instructional videos on bike repair lately and I'm glad to say this is it.
I've just ordered the bottom bracket removal tool so now I know exactly what I need to do.
wow....looking at various posts you have put up, I have never learned so much about bikes (see your ceramic bearing video) good job!
Great video!!!! Like the tools you make....thanks for the tips!!!
Man your channel is a lifesaver!
My BB30 drove me to near madness🤪 Changed to a Praxis conversion and therapy sorted😁 Great Vid
I had the same problem with my Cannondale CAAD12 from the start ! Praxis is one of the best choices out there, but if to stretch budget a little bit more I would go for custom Hambini - his BB's just rocks, unbelievable performance - Aerospace tolerances, guarantee a no slop fit with good retention, One Piece design is inherently creak free, ultra low friction bearings, No Hammers to install or remove
Those are the biggest advantages of the Hambini over others like BBInfinite, Praxis , etc, you don’t need a hammer to pound the thing out of your frameset, and his tolerances are simply the best in the biz because his own name and rep are on the line. Also, his one piece BB is the easiest install and remove of any BB on the planet. I would never put an overpriced Praxis or BBInfinite BB into one of my frames. BBInfinite is a joke. Skateboard quality Enduro bearings marketed to gullible fools, and sold as if they are aerospace quality. And the BBInfinite service instructions say to use an air-hammer to assist with removing their overpriced junk BB. An air-hammer. ROTFLMFAO.
Hambini all the way. If you ever have an issue with a Hambini BB you can actually communicate with the guy, who designed and machined it as well.
@@rcg9573 how to purchase BB hambini?
Sorry im new to a bike world
@@avenpace His tolerances aren't "Aerospace" you idiot. They are the bicycle industry tolerances i.e. 0.005" or 0.01mm fit. Stop peddling that lie as it gives bicycle manufacturers an excuse not to deliver their products with the required tolerances observed.
Great vid. Thanks so much for posting this! I hear TREK are returning to threaded BB's.
What a great video! Very helpful. Step by step and full of details. Thanks a lot!
Excellent! I had to work with most of the Loctite products before I retired, especially 609. Make sure you use the 609 here to allow removal later if needed. In the old days before we had Loctite 609 we often used......clear nail polish! Seriously! Dont know if it would work here as it has acetone and I would not want it to contact an epoxy-carbon frame. Also your application of the 609 is right on. Too many people apply way too much and it then glops out everywhere (like perhaps into the bearings here). In this application you only need a film of it like you applied . I also have to commend you on talking about the cure time! Most people say it 'dries' in 24 hours. There is no drying, it is a chemical reaction and thus it cures. Finally, this chemical reaction takes place anaerobically, so when you are done do not squeeze the bottle before capping it to get the air out 'so the bottle lasts longer' like I have often seen. Just use it, wipe off the bottle threads if any spilled, and put the cap back on. You have great videos.
I've used nail polish for years on screws to keep them from coming loose.
Another good tip in the bag! Thanks
Mate you are a legend.
I work at FSA and we have been doing some experiments in the shop focusing in creaking noise from the BB. We used Loc Tite 380 (Black) on one of these bikes. It holds as well as 609 and does not cause issues with removal later. The great thing about 380 is that it expands and becomes sort if like a rubber texture as it cures. This fills micro voids between the cup/bearing and it's contact surface better. FSA is not going to republish it's documents to change to recommending 380 but here in the U.S. office this is what we do with our own bikes, demo/show bikes and the rare repair we do for anyone locally we may work with. Good video by the way. I have directed people to your channel for tips on doing there own repairs
Thank you for directing people to my vid. Joe.
Thanx for the tip on Loctite 380 black,I will definitely investigate it.
So FSA may recomend Loctite 380 soon after some testing?
@@stevenleffanue I dont think the company as a whole will ever officially recomend 380 as we already have thousands of BB instructions printed but it is definatly the preferance of the staff here in the United States office for those of us with BB30 or PF30 frames. Several bike makers will be making the change to T47 over the next couple of years and letting go of all the press fit standards. FSA now has a T47 bottom bracket that we make since so many bike companies have asked us to make one. It seems to be the future.
@@stevenleffanue your videos are clear, well thought out, informative and professional. The riders I have directed to your channel for help love it because you are a rider like them working in your garage instead of a stuffy corparate video in a studio. I will continue to guide people to your channel if it is ok with you.
Ha,yeh,in my rusty ol shed. Nice that you guys ride your bikes too. Thanx again Joe 😎
@@joeottsoulbikes415 T47 is the future as long as bike manufacturers are unable to achieve or are unwilling to invest in proper quality assurance, but it's essentially just another set of press fit adapters, when all's said and done.
I founded my creaking sound coming from my shoe clips. Make sure all fasteners are tight.
Thanks for your videos. Learning a lot.
Seat springs creak too.
Literally after the first 20 seconds of the video it has helped me identify and confirm the issue with my bike... I have a carbon bike and thought there might be a frame issue. But after hearing the creak from your bottom bracket, it's exactly the same as mine.
Beautiful! Very satisfying little job and great results. Thank you 🙏🏼 😊
Nice job on the video - very well done. After replacing the bot bracket bearings, most of the remaining creak on my bike went away after greasing and re-torquing the chain ring bolts. I also filed down a small burr (1/2mm high) on one of the rings where it contacted the spider.
Finally! You’ve nailed it. You described the noise I’ve been hearing perfectly. I have been dealing with a noise (that drives me nuts!), and my bike repair keeps trying to convince me it’s a chain issue. I knew better. While I wouldn’t tackle something of this difficulty, I can now tell THEM what it is. Thanks for giving me the knowledge to finally get my quiet ride back 😃
Same! I'm like "there's a noise! It's the BB." They're like "look, no BB noise, its fine."
I spent close to 300 USD in three different bike shops to nail down/fix annoying creaking noise. They replaced my pedals, cassette, bottom bracket and full headset service and still the noise wouldn't go away. One mechanic even suggested I learn to live with it as it's possible I have a defective frame. I spent hours on google and watching videos trying to see what else could be done. One youtube commenter suggested putting grease around the seat post clamp. I thought it can't be that simple. Plus one shop has already put grease on the seat post but not on the clamp. So I removed the clamp, cleaned it and reinstalled with fresh grease. Went for a test ride. Lo and behold, NO MORE NOISE. I was ecstatic. I was speechless. I thanked God.
Lg
Super video. I had to do the same thing on my trek madone bb90. One thing I have had issues with is lightweight skewers not clamping the wheels tightly enough casing the rear wheel to creak.
Just what I needed 😅many thanks
So happy to find your channel - great videos over a wide range of bicycle topics and very clear instructions on repairs and hacks. Thank you.
this is the only video that actually showcases the noise too
Amazing. I had know idea how to do this.
Thanks, great vid.
The worst is when it clicks. Creaking is annoying too.
5 years of CX with jet washing, multiple FSA BBs, no creaking. Bought tools. Got top quality replacement bearings ready (Hambini), but so far no need. Damn, looking forward to dealing with it when it happens
But agree, it’s a terrible system, designed to save money for the manufacturer at the expense of the rider
Out of interest, what make is your frame?
i love the work bench
My creaking when standing up was my front wheel skewer. I have to put grease and lock it super tight to prevent creaking but even after a while it starts again.
Fcuk it off. Not worth the stress.
Brilliant. Thanks for this.
Attentive mechanic. Love it 👍
Perfect Video, Thank you so much,😊 you not just told the solution you also told it's mechanism and how it Damaged by the time, That's very knowledgeable😊😊
thanks, shared with a few FB groups
Great vid. I would also include the seatpost in your possible creaky farook list.
especiallly if it's sligthly too short.
+RadioSnivins Thanx...yes theres a long list of possible causes of creaks. Sometimes its a process of elimination to find it.
Darn tootin'. A bike mechanic worth his cheese has to be half MacGyver, and half Hercule Poirot.
Nice quote! ;)
The more recent videos about this discuss the contact area of the pedal spindle, with the inner race of the bearings. You can sometimes see marking on the axle where it mates with the bearing, you can actually this at 9mins and 8 seconds in this video. Apparently fine grit finds its way there, or lack of lube, one of the causes of creaking. Interestingly that doesn't seem to happen on threaded set ups.
Great video as always.
I'm planning to buy second hand an 2012 orbea orca. I believe is similar to the one you have. It is fairly in good condition with little mileage. Do you have any specific advice on the bike? Thanks
Don’t forget a primer as anaerobic adhesives will fuse any carbon it touches ;)
Very good demonstration, thank you. My bottom bracket slightly different but principal the same. Will have to see when I take it apart, Mine started clicking after only a few hundred miles.
Yes. Most manufacturers just press the BBs in dry.
Very hard to locate where the creacking sound comes from sometimes when you are riding the bike.
I tought it was the press fit bottom bracket that where creacking on my road bike, upgraded to carbon wheels and the sound was gone. It was from the wheels.
Probably the trough axle that was dry.
On my full suspension, the creacking sound came from the pedals.
Again I belived it was from the bottom bracket, a threaded bottom bracket in this case.
My advice is to grease everything, before you remove the crank and work on the bottom bracket.
Nice job mate!!!!
Really informative. I was hit with this plague after a near death experience where a driver almost ran me over even though I had the right of way. If it wasn't for me gripping my breaks and sliding I would've been in the hospital. Shortly after that stupid event I heard cracking noises whenever I would pedal. I commute to work and I was scared that the frame or something was cracked so I walked the rest of the way. I googled and CZcamsd for solutions and your video helped me out the most.
For your information. I've just received the first onepiece converter, from PF30 to 386EVO, from Hambini Engineering. I opted for a onepiece sleeve enabling you to replace the bearings yourself. Could not find one on the market, so Hambini made me a custom one. As I have an almost all black Cannondale Supersix EVO HiMod, I had it anodized in black locally. I bought the carbon primer and retaining compound from Park Tools. The primer, AP-1, equals Loctite 7649, the retaining compound RC-1 equals Loctite 680. From Park Tools they are pretty costly, so if you can find Loctite products cheaper, buy them instead. Installing cups are provided by Hambini, you just need a homemade press tool like the one shown in the video above, only with a longer threaded rod as you start wider, sleeve and shell width. Rgr
@@gokaygs Fully OK. Sometimes I can have a clicking sound, but I think it´s the pedals, Speedplays, crying for new bearings, or a antifriction lubrication.. I´d buy again if facing same problem, the onepiece design must be better than anything twopiece. Rgr
Down with press-fit! Seems like a nightmare and only for pros with full time help. I will say that one of the strangest “creaks” I ever discovered was from a COG. COGs and skewers are a good place to start once you rule out your cleats/pedals.
I am facing these issues right now :( very helpful cheers oz cycle ur da man :P
Update: In The US Loctite is now branded as Permatex in retail locations, while wholesale industrial supplies still sell loctite .
great stuff, I shared this:-) I haven't Tried this Loctite yet.
Thanks mate , I took apart the bottom bracket using a crank puller and then the wrachet and cyclo cartridge bottom bracket tool I took everything out cleaned and put on a good amount of grease and put it back together , the halfords crank puller was too tight a fit so I bought one on ebay and it was fine , now its smooth and no creak so thanks again 👍
Great video
Did you just bond the cups to the BB and the bearings?
Press Fit cups that set on each side are prone to creaking. Get a nice locking Press Fit bottom from Praxxis, RaceFace or others that thread together in the middle making one continuous piece. I have multiple bikes with these type of locking bottoms and never have had a creak without using any Locktite.
My new giant escape had a very loud click in tune with the right pedal revolution. It was so loud it would reverberate off the walls of any buildings on my route. Dealer tried as we both thought it was the bottom bracket/crank arms without any luck. 3 months later I've finally found the issue, the derailleur hanger bracket screws were loose. Two tiny M3 CSK hex head screws ! Not totally backed out but they were probably never tightened from the factory. I pulled the bracket off, applied some finish line grease to the bracket/frame interface and all is silent now. Saved myself from buying a new crankset for nothing as the sound certainly sounded like it was eminating from that area.
When re fitting the left hand crank I apply copper grease on the spline, also helps reduce creaks.
Copper paste are not good for aluminium.
Good tip.
awesome tips.....
I had it too on my bike with a bb 30 .
I brought it too the bike shop and they put an aftermarket wheels manufacturing mfg bb 30 assembly but it still creacked .
Then i fixed it myself with loctite 243 from work .
Unscrewed the wheels bb 30 cleaned it with degreaser and put 243 loctite threadlocker problem solved .
I put it only between the aluminium bottembracket shell and the wheels assembly .
Because its made of 7075 aluminium not much chance of creak , i assume most standard bottombrackets that come with bikes are of a too weak aluminium , thus causing the outerrace being able to move in the frame .
So if the cups are of a sufficient high quality alu alloy , it might be enough to just put loctite between the cup and the bottombracket itself .
In this way you are sure the bearings and spindle come out easy.
Loctite 243 is very strong but the other type might be even better .
Thank you, I've only just installed a threaded BB into an aluminium frame and its developed a creek after 900kms. Used liberal amounts of lithium grease so maybe I've over torqued them. Will try Loctite as 609 is non hardening.
Once again your native birds in the background noise are very therapeutic....
+TheCrossroads09 Haha....sorry no kookaburras this time :)
I had creeking noise coming from pressfit bb. Only what worked out is press it out and press back in.
Truly excellent video, thank you! Will that BB tool work for mountain bike press fit bottom bracket as well? Shimano Press Fit 92
Yes it will press the Shimano 92 Greg.
Thank you so much for including what a creak sounds like. took me so long to find one!!!!
But i do have a question, i dont get a creak but when im in my smallest rear cog, I feel like i hear the ball bearings of my bb90 hitting themselves. Any opinion about that?
Difficult to diagnose from a distance. Try the easy things first like tighten QR skewers,pedals,crank bolts,chainring studs,etc, before pulling bearings out.
Did you re-grease those bearings? Repack with grease?
Reusing bearings you've knocked out is a pretty bad idea, except as an "I need to ride my bike until I can get new bearings" solution.
Hi all, my roadbike was exactly the same creaking noise, and was not bottom bracket at all😜. I just tightened up small chainring bolts and sound gone🤩🤩🤩drive me mad that creaking sound for year😂
Other potential creak sources include negative thoughts, fatty foods, low barometric pressure, high solar flux, and a passive-aggressive bike. (Sorry, that last one is redundant.) Great video! I'll be doing all the things you demonstrated this weekend.
Funny ha ha 😂
My creak turned out to be the spd cleats on my shoes, after changing bottom bracket, new cranks, new seat post.
Retro Dude, Old man on his bikes ouch
Classic
I have Canyon Ultimate which have carbon shell.Should i use retaining compound on carbon shell?What should i do?
Another spot creaking happens is the intersection flats where spokes cross each other. My theory is, rust/tarnish forms from washing my bike and those tight spots do not dry sufficiently allowing corrosion to form. Using Tri-Flow, placing a drop at each intersection then squeezing the two overlapping spokes a few times, stopped the spoke noise creaking. (Just another tip)
+Lance McGrew Yes thats certainly a potential creaking spot. Thanx Lance.
Great vid. Thanks mate
I spent ages going over my bottom bracket but couldn't stop the creaking. Changed my Shimano pedals and it stopped....top tip- try the pedals first
Thanks!
Please share how you made that spiffy bearing press. Genius!
czcams.com/video/y877LgyFpo8/video.html
Wouldn't tapping out the bearings un-uniformly warp the cups a little? Rather than one of those tri-spoked flanged tools that puts more equal pressure and taps them out pretty straight?
Bravo, excelente... gracias amigo.
Damn. I really need to get new crankset
Really nice video :)
Informative video 👍
I feel you
Recently put the truvativ bb30 in my 2012 supersix and developed a bottom bracket creak 😭😭. I put back the old ngks. Back to normal for now. The noise was caused by internal bearing failure. It was notchy out the box. I would check for race smothness before condemning bb30 bearings. Be sure bearing go in smooth and flush with snap rings.
How will u get this apart in the future? 609 usually takes a lot of heat to remove.
Use the Loctite sparingly....I put on only 2 drops.
hello, excellent the trick of the wooden cleat to remove the press-fit box from your bike
Would applying grease to all these areas do the same thing???
I ride well over two hundred days a year so I replaced my bottom bracket with a Chris King and have not had a problem since 🤠🤠🤠
I have a creaking BB too but it has threads any tips on how to solve it? Also do you have any maintenance videos on rear hub assemblies?
I had that with some Rotor BSA30 BB cups (30mm spindle with BSA threaded external BB). Didn't think of the Loctite solution -the LBS pulled the bearings out of the cups. regreased and reinserted them, but that lasted only until after the next wet ride. Ended up replacing entire BB unit.
Will go Loctite 609 next time it happens.
OZ, what do you think about BBInfinte and Hambini one piece BB to fix the creak and make it stiffer?
Yep,sure,if you can afford them. However even the best bb unit can still creak if the bb shell is out of round.
I never seen anyone applying Loctite on spinde!
Unfortunately bike manufacturers are selling shit quality frames with poor tolerances. I was struggling with brand new Focus Cayo just few weeks after purchase. After 3 various tries of various BB PF30 replacement (including Loctite, finally I fitted PraxisWorks expanding BB system, which fixed issue (I had to replace the whole Sram crank system to Shimano 24mm spindle). Shell openings are not round in 99% of frames, there are drilled separately in factory aren't centric (even worse). Best frames are Time and LOOK.
hmmm ive never seen loctite used on bbs before
Have to do this with sram 3 bolt direct mount chainrings
I thought my bike had a creaking BB. When I finally got around to dealing with it and started cleaning off the frame at the BB shell, I discovered what was making the creaking noise was actually a crack in my aluminum frame, around the back of the seat tube, just above the weld with the BB shell. Not a happy day. 😢
Oh dear. Well at least you found the problem and may have saved yourself an accident if the tubing came apart whilst you were riding.
Great, informative video, as we have come to expect from Oz Cycle :-) Just wondering... I have an aluminium sleeve in my carbon bottom bracket shell but my bottom bracket is a sealed plastic BB30 unit. Is the Loctite going to be OK for plastic bottom bracket cups (or adapters as Shimano call them)?
No. Grease for threaded and a liquid rubber for press fit.
@@stevenleffanue thanks for the reply... I am glad I asked as I was ready to go with the Loctite ☺ What kind of liquid rubber? Can you recommend a specific product? I have never even heard of it LOL
I absolutely hate press fit BBs! Last year I bought a bike which had that and almost immediately it started creaking. After returning it to manufacturer for a fix and waiting far longer than I would have liked, it still was creaking. So I just returned it and got myself a much cheaper used mountain bike with normal Hollowtech II bottom bracket that is easy to remove and work with and never creaks! I hope threaded brackets will make a come back cause threadless ones are impractical and harder to maintain.
hi, great video.
Just a question.
Why don’t you apply loctite 641 instead?
I read its useful for pieces that you need to remove later.
Yes, loctite641 would work well too
Would you still try grease before trying locktite or move straight to locktite?
Grease should work....Loctite definitely works
for press fit BB, grease is worst than completely clean dry fit
The press fit BB30 on my Felt F5 started creaking after about 6 months. Got the cheap tools from Chain Reaction online store, and a set of $24 ceramic Chinese bearings from ebay. Pressed em in and away she went, no creaks.... until it rained, 3 months later. Took it apart again, cleaned and greased them and pressed em back in with plenty of grease. Then as I was about to put the crank set back in, I thought... you wouldn't put a motor bike crank case together without oil in it would you? So, out came the anti corrosion penetrating oil called Inox. I just added about one or two desert spoons of oil into the housing between the bearings. Because there is no oil pressure, the bearing seals keep the oil inside and when or if the bearings move they soon get oil into the spaces. Two years later and all is well. No creaks and no corrosion, at nearly no cost. Cheers. And the bearings are very happy..lol.
+ozesalsa Thanx for your experience...so Chinese ceramic bearings do work ok!
I am a casual rider so I am not that hardcore but when my bike was creaking, I took the dust cap thing on the crank arm off and pour a ton of chain lube in there and the creaking stopped. Lol don't know what that was about but happy it stopped.
Many Thanks !!! :)
I had the same creaking. It was my front skewer. It was not tight enough.
Skewers are one of the biggest causes of creaking. Guys often think it is their BB, and it’s often just a matter of properly torquing the skewers. Same thing with crank arms and cassette lock rings, improperly torqued or greased they are often the cause of perceived BB creaks.
LOL I was just going to say they have a specific Loctite for that.
Good they sucked ass at bottom brackets. My left side would slide out if you just tilted the bike. Also "not their problem!!"
I don't even have this bearing type, zoned out.
Thanks for sharing
Good video ...Thanks mate
Another Great video, thanks! What is the song that is used at the start of your videos?
+Sub Marine Intro to tour de france from the 90s one year....its royalty free now.
oz cycle that's way it sounded super familiar!
i remember people saying on forums to never deal with bottom bracket cause it needs specialized tools costing several hundred dollars
Not always the case , it depends on which BB unit used
Every time I've had a creak, it's been a loose crank arm.
PTFE tape works a treat
Yes it works well for a while but deforms under the alternating load stresses which means the cup/bearing will move ever so slightly again yet it may still not creak. Loctite stops the movement.