New Powermatic PM2820EVS Drill Press Assembly and Review
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- čas přidán 13. 01. 2021
- I just received the PM2820EVS drill press that I ordered on the black friday sale. In this video I assemble it, and test it out as well as compare to its predecessor, the PM2800B.
I also give some information on the Llambrich JK-130-MT2 keyless drill chuck that I have used for a year or so and installed it on this drill press. This is also the same as the JK-13-MT2 in the Llambrich catalog.
NOTE: One issue that a viewer pointed out to me that I didn't notice until after the review was that the table locking mechanism is a little sloppy on both of our units. The 90 degree locking pin does not fit tight enough to see the position accurately, and as such cannot help keep the table locked in place. We are waiting for a response from Powermatic on this issue.
Great review and content. I was leaning towards a Nova Voyager and decided to purchase the Powermatic 2820EVS based on your video. Powermatic should give you a commission😊
Thanks Jim for another great video. Think I'll pull the trigger on one myself. Appreciate the effort.
Firstly, thanks for the review on this, and secondly, I learned more about drill presses from this video than I have elsewhere combined. Thanks again.
Thank you.
Just a great review. Thanks for taking the time to put the video together. It just happens that I am in the market for a Drill press and this video will help with that decision.
@JN Woodworks: Thank you for this video. I bought a PM2820EVS about a year ago, largely based on this video. And this week I finally got around to aligning the lasers using the technique you show here. It couldn't have been easier. Thank you for the assistance you've provided. Also a big shout out to Next Level Carpentry for prodding me to finally set up the lasers. Matt also has a Patreon video where he shows an innovative technique for making and holding MDF sacrificial inserts for the drill press. I'm very pleased with his work, too. Thanks to you both!
I'm glad you found it useful Eric
This video really helped answer my question of the difference of the two models. Thanks for the time you put into this comparison!
You are welcome
Thanks for the review. I'm looking at this one and the variable speed Rikon.
Thanks for the review, I ordered one after watching. Also ordered the chuck, looking forward to them coming. I make a lot of cribbage boards and spend a lot of time at the drill press, looking forward to the bit not wobbling in the new chuck. I have the 2800 now, it has been okay, but looking for improvement.
I'm glad it was helpful.
If you make a lot of games with peg holes, you might consider eventually getting a small CNC router setup. They are really nice for making board games with a lot of holes.
I’ve never been able to get my laser set correctly on my drill press, I’m going to try your method thanks for showing that. 👍🏻
Let me know if it works better, or if you come up with a better way. I'm thinking about trying a straight rod chucked up with a scribe line on it to see if that will work better. That would remove the table dependency. The problem is that you can't align to the center of that rod (unless you mill half of it off first).
Great video, very informative thanks for your honest input. I’m leaning towards the 2820
👍
You're welcome.
THANK YOU!! for your review. I had to return an expensive Dake drill press because it got severely damaged in shipping. It had a DC control unit that, for the life of me, I could not understand. So by good fortune, I'm getting a full refund and I'll get this drill press instead. I'll save 1k in the process. It made my day! Thanks again!
You're welcome.
I decided on a PM 2820 anniversary model. Almost bought a Delta, but liked your video. Keep up the good work.
Thank you.
I’m highly considering the Delta also, but don’t like the 3/4 horse motor….
Was taking a hard look at the Nova Voyager but your video is making me think twice now.
Plus the Powermatic's table has some better features and size wise make it a good choice.
Well done Great review Jim!
Thanks Tim
Nice review, I agree about the lasers. Some people talk like lasers are pinpoint, I think they are just for rough reference. I just got a Nova Viking yesterday. Put it together and it seems to be quality, but haven't checked runout and table square yet. I did turn it on and ran it to max factory rpm setting and it is unbelievably quiet. The stop is pretty much the same on the viking.
Amazing review my friend full of honesty.. Big cheers from 🇰🇼 Kuwait 👌🏼
Thank you :-)
I find myself drilling with a 3 1/2" forstner bit in white oak, typically about 1/2" to 5/8" deep, and I'm struggling with stalling if I try to take too much of a bite. I have a cheapo little Jet drill press, but it's served me fine for the basics I've needed up to now. So I landed on your video, trying to find out if the 2820EVS had the torque to power through. Thankfully you did exactly the test I was looking for. Obviously that's still a problem, though I'm sure this has far more torque than mine. What I was hoping to see was it plow right through without any stalling. That would have given me added confidence to justify the purchase. Now, I'm a little less sure. Thanks for clearly demonstrating that aspect of the unit.
That is a lot of bit you have, and oak is one of the tougher woods to use with a forstner bit that big. Of the 4 or 5 drill presses I've had over the years, this one would handle that the best by far. That said, its not gonna cut it like butter, you will be able to stall it if you really try.
As will all cutting machines, the cutter is just as or more important thant he machine. I'm not sure what kind of bit you have, but my set is one of the cheaper ones (not carbide tipped either) and didn't come super sharp. I have gone through and sharpened some of them as I have been using them and it makes a difference. If you drill a lot of holes of that specific size, it might be good to look for a really good quality bit that is carbide tipped and super sharp from the factory. That would be expensive I'm sure but might be worth it if you drill a lot of them. There are a few reviews of different brands you CZcams (I have not tried any of them, I have an old cheapo set).
Just order this one the other day. I look forward to setting it up.
Cool.
@@JNWoodworks Where did you buy the LLambrich Chuck? Great video.
@@ander7600 There are several models on Ebay and Amazon. This is the one I got: www.ebay.com/itm/223580992317
The ones that go beyond 1/2" don't go as small, so I stayed with this one because I still wanted to use 1/16" bits sometimes.
Let me know how you like the chuck and drill when you get it. I like to keep my reviews accurate, so if you come across anything i missed I'd like to know...but so far I have been happy with both.
@@JNWoodworks Thank you!
@JN Woodworks: Thanks for this video. I have an 18" Delta variable and it has the same depth stop as your older pm2800. One thing I like about that setup it you also adjust the quill up travel, which I use a lot for smaller bits and many holes to drill. I keep the bit about 1/2" or so above the work and I don't have to turn handles around so much. Long story short, can you adjust the up travel of the quill on the new pm or does it return all the home all the time? Thanks advance.
You are correct, and I failed to mention that difference (probably because I rarely used the return stop feature). The older PM2800 is similar to the Delta in that you can set a depth and return stop AT THE SAME TIME. The new PM2820EVS is a completely different mechanism (built into the pinion shaft mechanism) that only lets you set a depth OR a return stop, but not both simultaneously.
Good catch.
Thanks for a great video! Trying to decide between this drill press and the Delta 1800. Thoughts?
Hi, Are you talking about the Delta 18-900L model? I couldn't find an 1800 model. The 18-900L speed is all controlled by belt, so thats not very convenient if you change speeds a lot. Delta used to sell a model with a variable speed drive but it doesn't look like they do anymore (I had one about 20 years ago). The Delta is definitely cheaper, and has that forward adjustable angle on the table which might be nice, but for me, I like the easy variable speed. My last 3 drillpresses were easy to change speed on, and for me that is a must have feature...but everyone's use case is a little different. The powermatic also is 1HP vs the delta at 3/4. I think the delta is a tier down from a feature standpoint, but it is also from a cost standpoint, so its probalby the same value, just a matter of the size and features you want.
I'm checking back in here after getting mine set up.
It's such a juxtaposition: the high tech excellence of the beltless EVS system, as opposed to the absolutely pants-on-head grade retreadation of the design of the mechanism that fixes the table in horizontal position. If you want your table true perpendicular to the drill spindle, you must forgo use of the undertable lock lever, and instead rely on the big hex head bolt that holds the table to the shaft ring. And to do that, you must remove the big lock washer under the head of that bolt.
The reference that is built into the system to help you get it truly square has a couple degrees of slop in it. You can crank down the undertable lock lever till it's down hard against the head but the table will still tilt up & down by 1/8" at the ends. Want to grunt down the hex head bolt to lock it then? Remove the lock washer so that you can torque the head down hard against the washer. Then you can lock the table in position.
But, you don't have a reference position, so get out your machinist square and chuck up a straight rod and retry a few times when torqueing down the bolt rotates the table out of square.
You'll get it eventually. I wish I'd shopped harder. Powermatic has undone my brand loyalty with this one.
I noticed that after I did the video too. I agree its disappointing at this cost point, and not what I'd normally expect from Powermatic. I haven't had time enough to see if it is the main pivot that has the slop, or just the index pin. I'm not sure I like the lock washer at all. I'd rather have a regular washer too, and then a built in lever (instead of just a bolt head) to lock it down solid. Maybe I'll go ahead and spend some time on it tomorrow to see if there is a simple fix.
@@jimandjulieneeb8529 pull the big hex head bolt, and remove the table and you will find an oblong hole milled to receive the nub end of the under table lock lever bolt. Milled wide on purpose. That's why the lever doesn't ever lock the table in rotational position.
@@thwwoodcraft1449 I just pulled mine apart. It doesn't have as much slop as yours, mine is actually a round hole, but still too big for a nice tight fit with the locking pin. I will probably make a new pin that has a tight fit. You are right, this part of the design leaves some to be desired. The main bolt will really not be able to hold the table perpendicular to the quill axis w/o the help of the pin.
I have sent PowerMatic Customer service feedback on this, and I encourage you to as well. I think they could improve the design, but they could also make a retrofit kit for the pin that would be an improvement.
BTW, thanks for pointing this out, I totally missed it in my review. I have posted this issue up in the description section and will update when I hear back from Powermatic.
I would guess mine is oblong by about .015". If I can't keep the table set square with the hex head bolt I'm going to pull the table and drill and tap a new 1/4" set screw hole to mimic the lock lever just different placement, that will take care of things.
Could you explain how to tighten the keyless chuck in more detail? I've only used chucks with keys and my drill bits keep falling out. Thank you.
Hi Rebecca. Most keyless chucks have two rings that have a knurled surface to grip them. On this lambrich chuck, its the two dark bands that you can see on it in the video.
Put the bit in and turn the bottom clockwise until the jaws grip the bit. Check carefully that the bit is actually centered in the jaws. I find that most keyless chucks have a sharper jaw that is easier to get the bit off center or between two jaws, not in the center. This is especialy true for small bits.
When you have the bit centered and snugged in place, then grab the top ring with one hand, and the bottom one with the other hand and twist them in opposite directions as hard as you can (like wringing a towel). That should be all it takes. Some of these come with a wrench to help grip the body of the chuck (mine did), but I've never had to use it.
Jim, I had to tighten the nut, but it did seem to pull the table up to square. Let me know if there is a follow up.
Ok, maybe it's more of a manufacturing problem than a design issue. I will follow up in the description above when I find out more.
The new configuration does not have the motor mounted to the rear of the unit. This would presumably allow the new unit to be located closer to the wall and take up a little less shop space. Is this the case, or am I not seeing something?
That is a good observation. I don't have the old one anymore to make a direct measurement. However, the PM2820's head does not protrude past the base at all and you can rest the back of the base against the wall. The 2800B has about 8-10" of motor sticking out past that. You do need about 4" of space in the back to allow turning the table lift crank, so I would say that the effective difference (in a usable position) would allow the 2820 to sit around 4-5" closer to the wall than the 2800B.
Could you share where the labels say this is made?
Also, do you feel the motor is strong enough?
Hi Tyler,
The nameplate says "Designed in the USA, assembled in Taiwan."
Strong enough is a relative thing I guess. I showed in the video drilling 3.25" holes in dried Acacia logs pretty easily. That is about a tough of a task that I would ever do with a drill press. It handled that as well as the previous 1HP drill press model I had, so I think the torque at low RPM with the Electronic Variable Speed is as good as the model's mechanical belt drive speed control.
Searched for Llambrcih JK-130-MT keyless chuck. Can't find. Anyone able to advise what model # Llambrich works for the PM2820EVS drill press? TIA
The Powermatic (and most other) drill presses are Morse Taper #2 on the spindle. So any chuck that has an MT2 arbor, or you can fit an MT2 arbor to will fit. Often you have to buy the arbor seperately.
Got my drill press exchanged them in my basement shop, good thing I have a strong friend, it was a chore moving it down. Got all set-up and excited to use it and the speed selector will not move out of low range, now waiting for a service call. Not the way I wanted to get started for sure. The gears in this model do make a fair amount of noise compared to the 2800, but I guess I will get used to it. Overall a nice machine, all castings were nice, table flat, perfect spin on my very small bits. Also with your advice the new chuck is awesome, thanks for the heads up.
Hi Mike, Mine was pretty stiff to switch between ranges. It helps to wiggle the chuck sometimes when trying to move the lever. I'm hoping it will loosen up a bit in time. The gears definitely make a different sound than what most people are used to with belt drive. Also, take a look at the comments from Mike Gervais about the table angle setting pin. I'm curious to see if yours also has a lot of play in it.
Nova voyager DVR or the Powermatic? 🤔
I can't speak for the Nova, I haven't used one
However, I didn't like the complicated settings it had. I just want to turn it on, set the speed, and drill. If that's what you want, then to me it was the Powermatic.
Great review Jim... thanks for the candid comparison and assessment. I'm looking to upgrade out of an older Delta variable speed machine and shied away from the Nova for the same reasons you did/do: I just want to drill holes too!😎
I"m going to check into the Llambrich keyless too on your recommendation. I always figured your review of the original keyless on your old PM was the way they all are and look forward to keyless ease and better-than-keyed holding power.
Question: how do you like features, fit and function of the fence on this model? I've read dissatisfied reviews on the fence on the older model and wonder if there's any improvement on this one...
Best,
Matt
The more I use that chuck, the more I like it. Two hands can easily tighten it, and I have yet to have any bit slip in it. You can make a quick snap with on hand to loosen it.
Anyway, on your fence question. I think the fence design on the new one is basically the same as the old one. On my old one though it had a slight twist, and my new one is pretty straight. I wouldn't say it's the best design in the world but it's fine for what I need to do. With the t slots in the fence it would be easy to make a custom version that accommodates your work needs.
@@jimneeb2362 Thanks for the additional info. Now I've got to find out if the Delta and PM2820EVS use the same taper so I can get the new chuck while figuring out when/how to do the drillpress upgrade but I'm already looking forward to the user-friendly function you describe. Found it interesting/reassuring that you 'never used the wrench' on the Llambrich even though it's capable. Thanks too for the tip that chucks that handle over 1/2" don't hold 1/16" bits... that's an important difference for my requirements too...
Best,
Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry I'm pretty sure I'll those manufacturers use a Jacobs taper on the chuck end and an MT2 on the quill end, but you should double check. I bought a JT33 to MT2 arbor for this because the particular chuck didn't come with an arbor.
@@jimneeb2362 Hey Jim, FYI I'm giving you a shout out in the video I'm currently producing showing unboxing and assembly of my new PM2820EVS and grabbed a screenshot of your Channel icon/logo to slip into the video. I plan to link to this video as I'm telling viewers about the thorough/in depth torque and run out testing you did.
Also want to say thank you for introducing me to Llambrich... makes me look like a real tool geek even though I never even heard of the brand before watching your video!
Keep up the good work, sir... well done!
Best,
Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks Matt. I look forward to seeing your video. 🙂
Mine should be here in a week or so. Waaaaaaaaay overkill for what I need. Hope it's worth the hurt to the wallet.
I never look back when I buy good tools :-)
@Nick Thats right, anything worth doing is worth overdoing!
Good grief. I understand you're not a videographer, but seriously... I tried to watch it, but just couldn't. Between not understanding a word in the beginning, to fastforwarding several minutes, and listening to you talk much to long on a subject that needed 10 seconds. I finally had to give up. I'm not trying to say making a video is easy, but if you're going to post something to the world, I would think you'd want it to be somewhat watchable.
It's kinda ironic then that you took so many words to say "you suck" 🙂
@@JNWoodworks Well I don't know you so I surely don't know if you suck, and no I didn't call you Shirley. The video on the other hand...