Voice coils do not "wear out" unless you send them too much power. You can tell by the burning smell they emit but it takes quite a bit to damage typical subs (as you can see in CZcams videos of people blowing up speakers). Also, when a voice coil heats up, its resistance increases, so your woofer actually doesn't play as loudly as you'd expect it to. This is called power compression. Google that for some interesting info.
Yes, you are correct, Impedance does depend on frequency but also power. And manufacturers will rate the nominal impedance of a speaker by rounding to the nearest whole number. Usually an even number. When building woofers at the factory I would order a case of 4ohm coils or 2ohm coils or whatever I needed. The coils were rated as such based on their resting DC resistance and that's what we would rate the woofers by. a4ohm rated coil would not always read 4ohms though, usually 3.5ohms.
Usually speakers are rated with their DC Resistance. Which is the resting resistance. If the coil reads around 4ohms with no voltage going through it, it is classified as a 4ohm speaker.
This is a common trend in most cars and boxes. An air mass sits in the port and vibrates like a spring. The larger the port, the greater the mass. Air also has an impedance and the larger we make the air mass, usually it will reduce the electrical impedance as a peak, but may raise the average impedance over a wide range. A bandpass works like a ported box in the same manner except that we add an acoustical filter and make this curve difficult to keep flat except in a narrow band of frequencies.
See, and now you know the info I give is the correct info and the info you received before was the misleading info. I make these vids to clear all of that up. I think I am one of the only industry insider, old school veterans giving info out on youtube. So I am here to help. I may not know it all, and I still learn more, but I do spread what I have learned from 17 years of doing this.
I was just thinking about this and decided to look it up. Running 2ohm DVC subs wired to .5ohm. The SCV 6K should easily handle this with the gains set properly and knowing that max volume the headunit can run without distortion.
yes you got it. Each song can be different and if you change the box or woofer, you will also change that power you will see from the amp. The actual measure power output from an amp is not the same power over all frequencies.
I can find my test sheets from a bunch of SPL cars I have tested. And the trend is that at the peak SPL frequency, wattage was lowest, Impedance was highest. And that's in ported enclosures just like how they say sealed boxes should work and just like free air
Great vid on explaining what box rise is, I have a soundstream tx12600d on an Orion hcca12.2 running at 1 ohm and when I clamped the amp I was only getting 288 watts at a steady 14.4 volts, with a box rise of 6.8, if I was to increase the size of the box would this normally bring the impedance down to get more out of the amp?
Box rise is not usually a problem and does not have to be dealt with unless you are an SPL competitor trying to get every ounce of power to the woofer. You can't really a way to combat it without compromises in the enclosure and for daily, good sounding setups, you need a bit of rise to flatten out your response. If you simply want it louder and have more power, I'd suggest a different woofer first.
A ported box can be easier to tune to a flat response over a wider range, and a BP can be tuned to have a wider passband but will suffer on loudness a bit.
yes, the goal that people have with imp. rise is to get the most power they can. So they would want to see their impedance not be very much over their nominal resistance rating. It's impossible to stay at nominal resistance so an amp's power rating is just an example and not really guaranteed.
Oh, and the other thing I need to mention. Electrical impedance is what your multimeter is measuring (resistance @ resonance) and mechanical impedance (what you are calling box rise) is speed/torque. Though they are both "impedances", they are different aspects of physics and can not be viewed as one.
+Zach Ridgway w0t? Multimeter measures DC resistance, which has nothing to do with resonance, actual impedance at resonance frequency can be more than 50 Ohms for a 4 Ohm speaker, and that's not what multimeter shows you, is it?. Impedance changes with frequency, it will have a peak (it's height and width are described by Q) at resonance frequency. The shape of this impedance curve changes when you put the woofer into the box, either the frequency of where this peak is changes (sealed box) or there will be two or three impedance peaks (vented box/bandpass).
+Zach Ridgway Electrical impedance is what your multimeter is measuring Nope. A standard DMM does not and cannot measure impedance. Even my Fluke 87 can't do it.
The woofer I have has more than enough volume but I'm getting intermediate, odd bass shut off during playback. It's strange and the only plausible cause I have to the problem was what someone on a forum suggested as 'box rise." I'm not a tad too naïve on the subject to know which route to take.
Thank you for an informative piece. Question; if you've gone to great lengths and expense to have a system configured and installed professionally that utilizes a 3 ohm woofer (JL Audio 13TW5-3) that creates box rise, is there a way to combat that without a complete re-design? I've just learned of "box rise" due to a problem I'm having that I described on 'caraudio' forum, from a members feedback.
If you only have 1 sub, then nothing has to be changed. And difference in sound may be so small that you won't notice because the only thing you change is airspace due to the cone's shape being in the box, vs being out of the box. This difference is very small. Now, if you have more than 1 woofer and you only want to invert 1 woofer, you need to switch the phase on that woofer, usually by just switching the + and - on the speaker wire.
could you talk about box design? aspects such as port location, musical vs spl box, enclosure type, oblong shapes, types of ports. and in that you could talk about cabin frequency and all that.
Most of the time, more. But this was done at low power (around 1w or less) So that alone will change it, so there is a chance it will be less in your box and car.
I sent you a link that shows impedance and resonance. And you can do the test yourself, just like I did in the vid and see if your test matched the woofer's rated Fs.
so youre saying a ported box properly built will have a flatter overall music response than a music-oriented bandpass in the same environment? What about the passband? Can you make the overall passband wider albeit less flat over a wide range with a bandpass? Thanks for the response
Okay lets dumb this down the only way to minimize coil rise it to build a effeicent box "what's an effeicent box?" Well simply put your gonna focus on the ts params of the speaker that everything not just fs and cubic feet then very carifuly using the total x max cone area and displacement of the speaker your gonna want to find out how much air the woofer can displace (usually listed on the woofer spec) usually it listed in litters now that you know this you need to design a box around that but keep in mind that this should also allow the speaker to move peak to peak at fs the ideal situa2 for an effeicent box. Is to build a medium sized with in these parameters and use a good sized port not extremely large not to small then you have successfully minimized the ohm change at peak to peak excursion
Most of the time they are measuring their peak power on 1 frequency. It might be their highest power or just whatever power it is on the random frequency they chose. But as soon as they play music, that number will change. So it's more so used just as an example. Kind of like having a street legal drag race car and telling people you have 1000 hp. But you drive around at the speed limit of 25mp or less, and you never actually use that 1000 hp.
also this is in an extended cab truck port up in all cases. Im just wondering if I should maybe try going bandpass to get what I want out of this setup, and maybe anything you could say about ported vs. bandpass walls, sorry about all the ?'s lol
How does port size generally effect bandwidth and impedance rise in a musical box? I can tune boxes with the same freq. and volume on paper, but it seems like the bigger I go with the port the lower the over all rise but the peakier the box sounds. A smaller port gives me more rise and less SPL but I feel like it has alot flatter and wider avg. response. Is this true just for my vehicle? Is every vehicle different in this regard or are there any major trends with port size vs rise for all cars?
It wont necessarily be safe. You cant predict box rise so maybe at some frequencies it will only rise to .5 ohms and your amp will shut off. Also, before the woofers start playing, the amp will see that .25 ohm load and wont even start playing or be damaged.
This woofer predates the RE. And the RE used design queues from this woofer. Basically it's the RE's daddy. These are extremely rare (only about 12 ever made) And I have 4 I am going to be selling.
Ed, is there a device that can show me my real time impedance or at least the minimum my amp will see that does not cost $450 like the SMD AMM-1? I have a DATS, is that impedance curve going to be accurate playing music?
Nope, Impedance is highest at resonance. Impedance is caused by the coil creating back voltage and it creates mot of it at tuning. It's because it's most efficient at that frequency and can make more power with less movement. For instance, a woofer can move more at 20hz than at higher frequencies but will make far less SPL than at higher frequencies. This also translates to the back voltage and not just SPL.
very informative. so the idea is to achieve the best possible average over all frequencies for music? or rather the bandwidth in which your capable of playing, because depending on the type of box your bandwidth will be shorter or wider. you may have mentioned it, but besides choosing higher quality equipment over cheaper stuff, is there a specific aspect of the system which would provide the most likely positive end result as far as changing something to lower imp rise?
If I have the impedance curve of my woofer in the box can I use a parametric eq to give it less power at the hump. Would that help some of the boomyness I'm hearing. I have an idmax 15 in a 3 ft sealed box. Sounds a bit boomy in my suv. Crossed anywhere from 60 to 80.
I have a question I bought two Skar ZVX v2 d2 12, so with two I can only do 1 ohm or half ohm, I messed up, I should of brought two 1 ohm so I can wire them to 1ohm. My question is can I wire the Skar ZVX v2 to half ohm, with ORION HCCA HCCA3000.1DSPLX, Class D Amplifier 3000 WATTS RMS 01 OHM I have the big three upgrade and an xs power 3400 in the trunk. And of course I won't blast it to kill the amp.
A pair of dual 2 ohm subs can be wired to either 0.5 ohm or 2 ohm. Depending on your box and other factors the amp might only see 1 ohm when playing music.
Dear Mr. Socket, I've seen you on a Vid. while back of you speaking about Parallel VS Series.. You said that you've done a test on a 12" sub that you had like DB from paralleling VS Series up With the Same Watts.. Could Speak on that Topic again Please an link me with that Sir....
Wow....I have an Adire Brahma MKII back in 2004, but saw some RE XXX motors (also XBL^2) that where similar. The first thing I thought when I saw the sub to the right in this vid was Adire Tumult! It is sad that this ANIMAL of a driver never made it to market. :(
So what if I added a 4ohm speaker to a pair of subs wired at 1 ohm? Would it be at .7 but rise to 1 or above and not damage my 1ohm stable amp? Hmm...I'm not gonna risk it but I'm curious
Yes, a 0.67 or so DC ohm load should definitely rise above 1 ohm on AC. Maybe 1.3 or 1.5 at least. Should be fine for the amp. It will just be working harder and drawing more current at high volume.
Hi there ed, can you help me out with understanding my situation better? Well i have 3 re audio se 12s (d4), my wiring options come out to either a 2.67 load or a .5 ohm load. What is the best option on powering these? I was thinking of bridging/strapping 2 audiopipe apsm1500s, what kind of power will these produce? Or can i buy a 2k rms amp and wire it down to .5 ohm . Would box rise bring this .5ohm up to around 1ohm? And i am gna run two batteries with the big three done.thanks in advance bro
suggesting that an amplifier, and amp settings will effect the impedance rise?!? also, "you're gunna do tests at different frequencies, to find your peak impedance, and ah, usually that's gonna be your tuning frequency" impedance is lowest around tuning, unless you consider a dip to be a peak... :/
Very nice. When I built my ported enclosure for sq I was going for a flat response. But I had help from a guy on a forum who told me that I should tune it a little higher, than where I had it, to get a 4db to 6db gain. So I went back to winisd and ended up tuning it to 36hz and had about 5db gain. I built it and, to me, it sounds freakin' great. But I really wouldn't know. Would you suggest that kind of gain for an sq enclosure?
I have two 12s dvc 4ohm wire in parrael to 1ohm meter reads 1.8,2.4 at times box ported tune to 34hrtz so wat i am really getting to these subs. So i really whant to c 1ohm on them i should off got the 2ohms wire to .5 n will hobup to .8,1ohm in the area with the same box thanks really good info
Had been waiting very long for no non-sense explanation on impedance rise and I finally found it. Thanks a lot Ed!!
Voice coils do not "wear out" unless you send them too much power. You can tell by the burning smell they emit but it takes quite a bit to damage typical subs (as you can see in CZcams videos of people blowing up speakers). Also, when a voice coil heats up, its resistance increases, so your woofer actually doesn't play as loudly as you'd expect it to. This is called power compression. Google that for some interesting info.
Yes, you are correct, Impedance does depend on frequency but also power. And manufacturers will rate the nominal impedance of a speaker by rounding to the nearest whole number. Usually an even number. When building woofers at the factory I would order a case of 4ohm coils or 2ohm coils or whatever I needed. The coils were rated as such based on their resting DC resistance and that's what we would rate the woofers by. a4ohm rated coil would not always read 4ohms though, usually 3.5ohms.
The impedance is for AC current. A DC measurement should always be lower
Eds comment above was a reply to someone's question. Unfortunately youtube separates them over such a long time period. Its like a glitch.
from teaching beginners to the pros "THUMPS UP" to you Ed keep making videos and introducing car audio as it should be taught.
The best and most simple definition of impedance that I've ever came across is, "impedance is resistance with respect to resonance (or frequency)".
i can't "Like" this enough!!! this has been needed for a LONG time!!!
If I bolt my box down to the floor, will it help prevent box rise??
lolol :P
Yea… but then you’ll have a new arising problem called “car rise”
Usually speakers are rated with their DC Resistance. Which is the resting resistance. If the coil reads around 4ohms with no voltage going through it, it is classified as a 4ohm speaker.
This is a common trend in most cars and boxes. An air mass sits in the port and vibrates like a spring. The larger the port, the greater the mass. Air also has an impedance and the larger we make the air mass, usually it will reduce the electrical impedance as a peak, but may raise the average impedance over a wide range. A bandpass works like a ported box in the same manner except that we add an acoustical filter and make this curve difficult to keep flat except in a narrow band of frequencies.
this is exactly what i like. informative information on audio topics without all the bells and whistles. and nice and long so i can take notes lol
See, and now you know the info I give is the correct info and the info you received before was the misleading info. I make these vids to clear all of that up. I think I am one of the only industry insider, old school veterans giving info out on youtube. So I am here to help. I may not know it all, and I still learn more, but I do spread what I have learned from 17 years of doing this.
I was just thinking about this and decided to look it up. Running 2ohm DVC subs wired to .5ohm. The SCV 6K should easily handle this with the gains set properly and knowing that max volume the headunit can run without distortion.
Fuck yeah that sounds like a good ass setup
yes you got it. Each song can be different and if you change the box or woofer, you will also change that power you will see from the amp. The actual measure power output from an amp is not the same power over all frequencies.
thanks for always keeping it real
I had a box rise of .91 ohms. On a dual .7 voice coils in a 7 cu.ft bix tuned to 43 hrtz. For comp. It was great!
wow, thanks for the video! helped me understand a quite many things about my sound system!
I can find my test sheets from a bunch of SPL cars I have tested. And the trend is that at the peak SPL frequency, wattage was lowest, Impedance was highest. And that's in ported enclosures just like how they say sealed boxes should work and just like free air
Excellent, great job on the editing man. Thanks for taking the time to educate.
Great vid on explaining what box rise is, I have a soundstream tx12600d on an Orion hcca12.2 running at 1 ohm and when I clamped the amp I was only getting 288 watts at a steady 14.4 volts, with a box rise of 6.8, if I was to increase the size of the box would this normally bring the impedance down to get more out of the amp?
Box rise is not usually a problem and does not have to be dealt with unless you are an SPL competitor trying to get every ounce of power to the woofer. You can't really a way to combat it without compromises in the enclosure and for daily, good sounding setups, you need a bit of rise to flatten out your response. If you simply want it louder and have more power, I'd suggest a different woofer first.
A ported box can be easier to tune to a flat response over a wider range, and a BP can be tuned to have a wider passband but will suffer on loudness a bit.
yes, the goal that people have with imp. rise is to get the most power they can. So they would want to see their impedance not be very much over their nominal resistance rating. It's impossible to stay at nominal resistance so an amp's power rating is just an example and not really guaranteed.
Oh, and the other thing I need to mention. Electrical impedance is what your multimeter is measuring (resistance @ resonance) and mechanical impedance (what you are calling box rise) is speed/torque. Though they are both "impedances", they are different aspects of physics and can not be viewed as one.
+Zach Ridgway w0t? Multimeter measures DC resistance, which has nothing to do with resonance, actual impedance at resonance frequency can be more than 50 Ohms for a 4 Ohm speaker, and that's not what multimeter shows you, is it?. Impedance changes with frequency, it will have a peak (it's height and width are described by Q) at resonance frequency. The shape of this impedance curve changes when you put the woofer into the box, either the frequency of where this peak is changes (sealed box) or there will be two or three impedance peaks (vented box/bandpass).
+Zach Ridgway Electrical impedance is what your multimeter is measuring
Nope. A standard DMM does not and cannot measure impedance. Even my Fluke 87 can't do it.
The woofer I have has more than enough volume but I'm getting intermediate, odd bass shut off during playback. It's strange and the only plausible cause I have to the problem was what someone on a forum suggested as 'box rise." I'm not a tad too naïve on the subject to know which route to take.
Thank you for an informative piece. Question; if you've gone to great lengths and expense to have a system configured and installed professionally that utilizes a 3 ohm woofer (JL Audio 13TW5-3) that creates box rise, is there a way to combat that without
a complete re-design? I've just learned of "box rise" due to a problem I'm having that I described on 'caraudio' forum, from a members feedback.
one of he best audio vids
If you only have 1 sub, then nothing has to be changed. And difference in sound may be so small that you won't notice because the only thing you change is airspace due to the cone's shape being in the box, vs being out of the box. This difference is very small. Now, if you have more than 1 woofer and you only want to invert 1 woofer, you need to switch the phase on that woofer, usually by just switching the + and - on the speaker wire.
Its an Adire Brahma Extreme. 1 of 4 I have here and they are 4 out of about a dozen made.
could you talk about box design? aspects such as port location, musical vs spl box, enclosure type, oblong shapes, types of ports. and in that you could talk about cabin frequency and all that.
Most of the time, more. But this was done at low power (around 1w or less) So that alone will change it, so there is a chance it will be less in your box and car.
REALLY good subs, very clean and musical
I sent you a link that shows impedance and resonance. And you can do the test yourself, just like I did in the vid and see if your test matched the woofer's rated Fs.
impedance phase and fluctuation isn't just dependant on the box. the cabin loading etc all fluctuat
Really good video, I will recomend this to alot of people.
Is it true that Steve Meade taught you all of these principles on which you are speaking?
Most likely the woofer will not play and the coils may heat up to the point of damage. If the diode does not burn of first that is.
Got a question. Do voice coils wear out at a certain rate and does it affect impedance through time?
so youre saying a ported box properly built will have a flatter overall music response than a music-oriented bandpass in the same environment? What about the passband? Can you make the overall passband wider albeit less flat over a wide range with a bandpass? Thanks for the response
Okay lets dumb this down the only way to minimize coil rise it to build a effeicent box "what's an effeicent box?" Well simply put your gonna focus on the ts params of the speaker that everything not just fs and cubic feet then very carifuly using the total x max cone area and displacement of the speaker your gonna want to find out how much air the woofer can displace (usually listed on the woofer spec) usually it listed in litters now that you know this you need to design a box around that but keep in mind that this should also allow the speaker to move peak to peak at fs the ideal situa2 for an effeicent box. Is to build a medium sized with in these parameters and use a good sized port not extremely large not to small then you have successfully minimized the ohm change at peak to peak excursion
Most of the time they are measuring their peak power on 1 frequency. It might be their highest power or just whatever power it is on the random frequency they chose. But as soon as they play music, that number will change. So it's more so used just as an example. Kind of like having a street legal drag race car and telling people you have 1000 hp. But you drive around at the speed limit of 25mp or less, and you never actually use that 1000 hp.
also this is in an extended cab truck port up in all cases. Im just wondering if I should maybe try going bandpass to get what I want out of this setup, and maybe anything you could say about ported vs. bandpass walls, sorry about all the ?'s lol
Great video Ed!
looks like one of the old school RE XXX.
How does port size generally effect bandwidth and impedance rise in a musical box? I can tune boxes with the same freq. and volume on paper, but it seems like the bigger I go with the port the lower the over all rise but the peakier the box sounds. A smaller port gives me more rise and less SPL but I feel like it has alot flatter and wider avg. response. Is this true just for my vehicle? Is every vehicle different in this regard or are there any major trends with port size vs rise for all cars?
It wont necessarily be safe. You cant predict box rise so maybe at some frequencies it will only rise to .5 ohms and your amp will shut off. Also, before the woofers start playing, the amp will see that .25 ohm load and wont even start playing or be damaged.
I love your vids, keep them coming!
This woofer predates the RE. And the RE used design queues from this woofer. Basically it's the RE's daddy. These are extremely rare (only about 12 ever made) And I have 4 I am going to be selling.
Allot of info hear thank you. I'm trying to figure out if I'm getting the rms I want this definitely helps a bit
Ed, is there a device that can show me my real time impedance or at least the minimum my amp will see that does not cost $450 like the SMD AMM-1?
I have a DATS, is that impedance curve going to be accurate playing music?
Nope, Impedance is highest at resonance. Impedance is caused by the coil creating back voltage and it creates mot of it at tuning. It's because it's most efficient at that frequency and can make more power with less movement. For instance, a woofer can move more at 20hz than at higher frequencies but will make far less SPL than at higher frequencies. This also translates to the back voltage and not just SPL.
very informative. so the idea is to achieve the best possible average over all frequencies for music? or rather the bandwidth in which your capable of playing, because depending on the type of box your bandwidth will be shorter or wider. you may have mentioned it, but besides choosing higher quality equipment over cheaper stuff, is there a specific aspect of the system which would provide the most likely positive end result as far as changing something to lower imp rise?
That could be an upcoming video
I'm a fan of 500 watt mono Amps. Are those Dad's good quality? Anything good for the price range?
Very good!
good stuff again!
If I have the impedance curve of my woofer in the box can I use a parametric eq to give it less power at the hump. Would that help some of the boomyness I'm hearing. I have an idmax 15 in a 3 ft sealed box. Sounds a bit boomy in my suv. Crossed anywhere from 60 to 80.
ohh ok, mag looked like the old xxx. Great vid.
I have a question I bought two Skar ZVX v2 d2 12, so with two I can only do 1 ohm or half ohm, I messed up, I should of brought two 1 ohm so I can wire them to 1ohm. My question is can I wire the Skar ZVX v2 to half ohm, with
ORION HCCA HCCA3000.1DSPLX, Class D Amplifier 3000 WATTS RMS 01 OHM I have the big three upgrade and an xs power 3400 in the trunk. And of course I won't blast it to kill the amp.
A pair of dual 2 ohm subs can be wired to either 0.5 ohm or 2 ohm. Depending on your box and other factors the amp might only see 1 ohm when playing music.
Would impedance rise and subsequent loss of power be mitigated by running the system at lower ohms ie wiring the amp at 0.6 vs 1ohm?
Not always, your impedance curve will change and could rise at a steeper rate possibly.
It's an Adire Brahma Extreme
Using that same DAD KMH woofer that you tested and plotted free air, would impedance rise more or less in a box?
what would happen if you were to put a diodes on the subwoofer's terminal so it only let power into it and not out of it?
Dear Mr. Socket, I've seen you on a Vid. while back of you speaking about Parallel VS Series..
You said that you've done a test on a 12" sub that you had like DB from paralleling VS Series up With the Same Watts.. Could Speak on that Topic again Please an link me with that Sir....
It will be similar in any box
Great video man! Very informative.
Wow....I have an Adire Brahma MKII back in 2004, but saw some RE XXX motors (also XBL^2) that where similar. The first thing I thought when I saw the sub to the right in this vid was Adire Tumult! It is sad that this ANIMAL of a driver never made it to market. :(
Hey Ed how are you pal awesome info pal
thank you, glad some guys like the longness. lol
Great explanation, Super Mario for President!
Great video!! Thanks!!
U R so smart!
Awesome informative video man!!
Thank you
great video! there is so much info in this video! thanks for studding! lol
So what if I added a 4ohm speaker to a pair of subs wired at 1 ohm? Would it be at .7 but rise to 1 or above and not damage my 1ohm stable amp? Hmm...I'm not gonna risk it but I'm curious
Yes, a 0.67 or so DC ohm load should definitely rise above 1 ohm on AC. Maybe 1.3 or 1.5 at least. Should be fine for the amp. It will just be working harder and drawing more current at high volume.
Hi there ed, can you help me out with understanding my situation better? Well i have 3 re audio se 12s (d4), my wiring options come out to either a 2.67 load or a .5 ohm load. What is the best option on powering these? I was thinking of bridging/strapping 2 audiopipe apsm1500s, what kind of power will these produce? Or can i buy a 2k rms amp and wire it down to .5 ohm . Would box rise bring this .5ohm up to around 1ohm? And i am gna run two batteries with the big three done.thanks in advance bro
if I invert my sub in its Ported box will I need to change any of my settings on the amp? And does it sound any different
Would 3 to 3.1 ohms be unusual reading for a tsw 3004 pioneer? (out of the box)
great video....keep the good work :)
i learned a lot. thanks!
suggesting that an amplifier, and amp settings will effect the impedance rise?!?
also,
"you're gunna do tests at different frequencies, to find your peak impedance, and ah, usually that's gonna be your tuning frequency"
impedance is lowest around tuning, unless you consider a dip to be a peak... :/
is that a gen 1 tumult on the table?
What kind of board is that in the background? I like it
I know it is late, but that is a Donk Board.
I have 2 dual 4 ohm subs wired in parallel so the final impedance is supposed to be 1 ohm, but the meter has it at 2 ohms. how do i fix this?
714smurf what's ur box tuned too
Fucking brilliant video Ed! Auto-fave! Another vid to send to noobs asking me questions constantly....lol
Very nice. When I built my ported enclosure for sq I was going for a flat response. But I had help from a guy on a forum who told me that I should tune it a little higher, than where I had it, to get a 4db to 6db gain. So I went back to winisd and ended up tuning it to 36hz and had about 5db gain. I built it and, to me, it sounds freakin' great. But I really wouldn't know. Would you suggest that kind of gain for an sq enclosure?
You shouldn’t want those gains very peaky
Wow. You did all that to explain clipping. And yet you didn't use the word clipping.
Clipping refers to an audio signal, not at all what this video was about.
Thanks
nice donkboard :) maybe if i meet you one day we can ride together! :D thanks for the video man
I have two 12s dvc 4ohm wire in parrael to 1ohm meter reads 1.8,2.4 at times box ported tune to 34hrtz so wat i am really getting to these subs. So i really whant to c 1ohm on them i should off got the 2ohms wire to .5 n will hobup to .8,1ohm in the area with the same box thanks really good info
Haha I wanted to kno that too sweet lookin beast what brand?
what kind of 18 is that?
you get less box rise if you bolt it to the floor of your trunk.
impedance isn't highest at tuning though?
cone excursion is lowest at tuning, meaning impedance is lowest.
No cone excursion lowest due to impeadance being highest so yes fs or fb (free air resonance or box tuning) impeadance highest
very nice,very nice vid also
oh ok thanks for the info
thanks i get it know box rise is not for me
I think you need to go measure some boxes... impedance is lowest at tuning... free air, impedance is greatest at the woofers resonant frequency...
no, because impedance IS lowest at tuning..
we're talking about in a ported box here, not free air resonance :/
you always got the good jokes buddy. ha ha ha