Cerakote Ceramic Headlight Restoration Kit Full Tutorial & Review
Vložit
- čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
- After using a cheaper headlight kit on this car that only lasted one year, I switched to the Cerakote kit for my next application on a different card and had great results. This time I filmed the entire process and show the before and after results.
0:00 Intro, Package Contents & Step Overview
3:02 Oxidation Remover Wipe
7:19 Stage 1 Wet Sanding
11:16 Stage 2 Wet Sanding
14:49 Wiping off Excess Water
15:30 Ceramic Finishing Wipe
17:36 Before After Comparison
18:29 Finished Product
#Cerakote #HeadlightRestoration #Ceramic #HeadlightRestorationKit #CeramicCoating #CerakoteCeramic #GriotsGarage #CarDetailing - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Very well informative and presented also. Add on a new scriber and another like 👌
Just a suggestion: try not to touch the headlight with your fingers after you've prepped the housing before putting on the ceramic coating. Oils from your fingers could cause poor adhesion. Also, I don't know if you mentioned it, but it would be best to use distilled water in your water bottle for the wet sanding and the final rinse. Otherwise, thanks for the video.
I wonder if you use a spray uv coating instead of the wipes will be better and last longer .
That shit works. Headlights look bran new.
hey man i ended up overlapping the 3rd step a bit too much!!!
now that the cera coat is hard and i can see the overlapping on the light,
whats the quick solution to fix the 3rd step??
or do i have to go all over again???
I don't think the overlap will come back out. I did that with the ceramic wipe with the Turtle Wax kit and after it dried I tried polishing it out with plastic polish and it didn't work. You'd pretty much have to resand the lens (although now that it's already been restored it shouldn't take as much, just enough to remove the coating) and apply a new ceramic coating. It goes on so thin and easy that it seems like you should do a few passes but you pretty much just wipe it as fast as you can once and maybe touch up the corners but if you deliberately go over a spot you already did it usually is already dried enough that it leaves those streaks.
These kits work best on headlights with minimal oxidation damage. When headlights have heavily oxidized damage it actually affects the
plastic itself and the factory clear coat. Then you need a professional to do the work. Hiring a professional to restore heavily oxidized
damaged headlights is still way cheaper than buying new headlights.
Would you think it remove sjight scratches?
Yes, as long as you use the sanding pads in the correct order that should take out most scratches and the ceramic wipe should fill in most fine scratches and level the lens surface.
@@Mr.Everything thank you I will try hopefully it works. I'll let you know.
How's it holding up?
These particular headlights are slightly yellow again but the ones I did on a Dodge Neon stayed perfectly clear so I'm not sure if it could come down to different types of plastics being used or if I just wasn't as aggressive on the Mercury since they were pretty clear to begin with. The Neon's were a solid and dried yellow so I put more time into restoring them before I put the ceramic wipe on.
@@Mr.Everything Depends on the care afterwards. Make sure to wash vehicle with wax safe soaps. Even better yet Chemical Guys has a ceramic car soap that
should push the longevity of the ceramic coat while cleaning the car with a great shine at the end.
@@Mr.Everything From my research of the Cerakote Cermaic Restoration kit, I have learned that Cerakote has a lifetime guarantee. If the yellow came back, you should contact them. My understanding is that they will send you another restoration kit.
Has anyone had this experience?😢 Headlights are still cloudy after steps 1 & 2. Rinsed and dried and a still cloudy.
These kits work best on headlights with minimal oxidation. If your headlights are still cloudy after the kit it could mean
one of two things. 1) you need to take the damage off the light with a much more grittier wet sanding then working
your way back up to the 3000 grit and finally the ceramic coat or 2) the problem may not be the outside housing of the
light and maybe the inside of the housing especially if you notice that your headlight develops condensation on the inside
of the light. If that's not the case try this step by step and see if it fixes it for you. Wet sand starting at 1000, you want a
uniform haze when it dries, then go to 2000, same thing here, then hit it with a 3000, again you want to see a uniform
haze then if you have the kit finish it off the way the kit says if not you can grab polishing compound for the clear finish
step followed by any wax of your choice. Best results are with a ceramic wax or any paste wax that says it's UV resistant
to prevent any yellowing from occurring again. Always remember that if your using a wax you want to wash your vehicle
with wax safe automotive soaps.
@@JayMagLam #1 was my situation, badly hazed lenses. I had to sand for 2+ hrs to get most of the crazing in the lens out, I started with 1000 grit (wet sanded) then went to the kit's 2000 then 3000 grit. The results were pretty darned good but this "2-3 minutes of sanding" in their instructions isn't going to be enough if the lens is badly hazed.
Cerakote says to wet sand? I’m confused AF